Who's going to pay for this?

[@OzMechanics]

Dan you are awesome my friend. You make that shirt look good :)

[@CubasAutomotive]

Fits like a glove eh? 😅😁😁

[@lo0ops]

Like a rather snug glove.

[@Diagnosedan]

It's my favorite shirt now💪

[@Diagnosedan]

@@CubasAutomotive what do you mean?......😂😂😂😂😂 I like chocolate so what😜

[@jusb1066]

@@CubasAutomotive fits like OJ's glove...

[@Divided-Kingdom]

In our family run automotive business in the UK, when we have come across this type of issue, we charge the supplier who in turn claim it back from the manufacturer. Great work showing the "behind the scenes" of vehicle repairs.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for watching!👍

[@koenvbeek1]

The list of claims gets longer. I work at a manufacturer of machines that produce the electronics of automotive parts. We have to create software that gives information which components are used on each printed circuit board (PCB), so that the manufacturer of the PCB's can forward the claim to their component supplier. It's just a game of passing on the claims to who sold the bad part.

[@totaltwit]

@Tobias - Yes I agree with you totally, I think we're all now very aware of fake parts entering all markets and so genuine business people are setting in place proper procedures to trap the bogies. In a way it's a good thing because the scammers get locked out and business standards increase. The less business strict will suffer, leaving the smarter business people who do conduct stricter control. I've seen the developement of QA over 35 years and at first it seems like a big pain, but when done right it locks the fakers/scammer out.

[@dublindave5795]

@@totaltwit So today it will lock out company named Y. Tomorrow company named X will sell this crap. Rinse and repeat, new name same product. Unfortunately, China companies for the most part have no morals. It is how they are taught from young age. My wife is Chinese and we go round and round. They think that if they made money (even if they cheated you) they are "clever".

[@totaltwit]

@@dublindave5795 Yes, I might get abuse for saying this, I quote from a noted US news commentator, "most Americans think they are smarter if they can cheat you out of $10 than earn $20"

[@markharrisllb]

It’s not just how good he is at finding faults, it’s also how good he is at explaining the journey and how things are supposed to work. I think the manufacturer should pay as they were the ones at fault, I wish you luck with that one!

[@michaladamec1618]

This guy is just amazing, the level of knowledge and the way he can express how things works etc... mind blowing

[@pineporter9327]

You are doing a perfect jop bro, well done

[@pmar8280]

Your videos have incalculable value. Im not a mechanic but Im addicted to your videos

[@johng8938]

100% agree I am not a mechanic and I love your videos

[@davedeville3902]

Love your videos. I have been a mobile mechanic for 12 years and found that aftermarket parts can be a real problem like the one in this video. I believe that the supplier is responsible for selling parts that work and they should be held liable for selling "no good" parts. It is up to them if they want to solve the problem with the manufacturer. Too many times the blame game is played between the supplier and manufacturer, then they want to point at the mechanic to avoid accountability. Over time I have found that certain parts should always be replaced with O.E. from the dealer, no blame game and no problems down the road from the customer. Yes it costs more and can take time to get if not on the shelf but the car owner will not be back in two weeks because of a failed part. The customer does not care who is at fault, and the mechanic is the only one they are paying in the end. In the interest of the customer it is best to go with O.E. in many but not all cases. Keep up the great work.

[@benking9503]

U know what dan! You should approach a production company and get your own tv show, your presentation and everything is just mind blowing, never underate yourself!

[@Diagnosedan]

Maybe one day Ben😊

[@turtlezed]

he does have a very concise, clear, well structured delivery and as a Dutchman his English is better than mine haha Dan would make a great new Scanner Dan-NL geddit....i thank you...i'm here all week ....

[@adrianvanhintum6120]

Excellent tutorial on the logical approach to a problem.patiance is a vertue

[@adrianvanhintum6120]

Virtue

[@WheatMillington]

What's TV? Is it that thing that old people watch where someone else tells you what's on and when?

[@R.E.HILL_]

You didn't buy from the manufacturer, you got it from your supplier. The supplier, if any good, should pay, and he then should get the refund from whomever supplied him...

[@Diagnosedan]

Exactly!👍

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

I'll bet you any amount that the supplier will continue selling the known bad parts (at this point they can be called fake parts) without even thinking about it. Just put them back on the shelf. Eventually somebody won't return them.

[@Beemergirl89]

Manufacturer should pay back supplier and pulling it off shelves as a recall if many are found. Supplier has no knowledge of defects in manufacturing, but should report it.

[@deaddoll1361]

@@InsideOfMyOwnMind The supplier doesn't need those kind of headaches. Also, bad news travels fast. Repairers talk and if it becomes known a supplier isn't doing the right thing, their trade business will take a hit, as no one wants to lose hours on what turned out to be a known problem.

[@CarTechTexas]

The problem with this is the shop owner still loses. Labor claims usually pay a fraction of actual labor rate.

[@steveguest8028]

I’ve been in the trade for 30yrs Dan and I’ve seen lots of aftermarket electrical components that are simply sub standard,my thoughts when it comes to electrical parts is always where possible use genuine and in my opinion the after market part manufacturer should pay out for the loss of time spent on diagnosing this vehicle 👍🏻

[@Diagnosedan]

My parts suplier compensated me for the lost time!

[@tardeliesmagic]

@@Diagnosedan I agree with Steve Guest,it happens,but rarely....manufacturer should pay!

[@richardwallinger1683]

@@Diagnosedan I guess the parts supplier is lucky he has you as a quality control department ..Or something like that . The other shop clearly failed to do the simple (now we know) swap it over test . Hopefully you had a friendly chat with your other shop mechanic . shared problem solving is PRICELESS.

[@dylansmith5549]

Changed hundreds of sensors over the years and I came up with a good few manufacturers that I always stuck to, plus they supply to genuine parts also. They are blue print, denso, Bosch, NGK/NTK/ apec for abs sensors never had a single failure from these manufacturers. Brilliant teaching Dan, just what we need, I've been in trade 6 years, haven't failed to fix something aslong as the tools were present. Makes a massive difference. I'm also self taught and use the training platform electude years ago, really good. Keep up the good work.👍

[@blairj1409]

I have learned lots from you posting. Thanks for sharing and teaching others. I have a 2004 GMC Canyon, automatic transmission, 3.5 litre 5 cyl.The LTFT is +12 to 13 %. I decided to use my new scanner tool to show me live data while I was driving my truck, to see if I could spot any strange or concerning anomalies. Nothing showed up if I was just idling in the truck. I did find something strange while I was out driving on the road test. I set the scan tool to show me only 4 statistics: STFT, LTFT, O2 sensor #1, and O2 sensor #2. So on the drive, the readings of the 4 statistics would fluctuate up and down as a person would expect. Then suddenly while driving at about 90 km/hr, and 1750 RPM according to my dashboard readings, the scan tool all of a sudden showed that the engine was locked at readings of STFT 0.0%, LTFT 1.6%, Sensor #1 at 0.005 Volts, and Sensor #2 at 0.40 Volts. It was my understanding that the O2 sensor # 1 would always fluctuate up and down from zero to 1 volt while driving, if working properly?The scan tool showed these frozen/stuck engine readings at 90 km/hr, and did the same thing at 110km/hr. The fuel trims and the O2 sensors were frozen in the readings, for about 5 seconds to 10 seconds, without changing. Sometimes the voltage of the O2 sensor #1 would very minimally change to 0.015 v, and O2 sensor #2 to 0.050 Volt. I have been experiencing a lack of power and hesitation, at these exact speeds, in the weeks prior, so the scanner findings make sense, I guess. What do you think about this? Any of your experience and knowledge would be appreciated for sure! I’m guessing if it is possible that the lock up mode of the automatic transmission has something to do with it? To me it does not seem logical that while driving and the transmission enters into lock up, that it would ever cause an O2 sensor reading to freeze and the Short Term Fuel Trim to freeze accordingly? When I am at idle, the O2 sensor #1 seems to work properly…it fluctuates from say .850 and all the way down to .015 as a rough explanation. Is there anything that would cause both O2 sensors to die at same time? Oh, I forgot to mention the odometer is at 418, 500 Kms. Well, I want to thank you for all of your intelligent videos and your clear concise way of speaking. Gotto love your personality as well! Blair.

[@billmclennan9560]

Manufacturer should pay. Parts store should pay you and then get their money from parts manufacturer

[@mrvolcada5355]

Used to repair computers 30 years ago and one of my favourite tricks was to spray components with freezer spray to cool individual components when dealing with flakey faults. Found so many dry joints and heat sensitive components. Those were the days!

[@michaelbarker8713]

Great video, Dan!!!! The MANUFACTURER should have to pay for your labor AND recall all of the bad sensors. Their bad parts are a waste of a lot of people’s time and money. Excellent work!!!!!!👍👍👍👍

[@bobhudson6659]

Agree. The "hip pocket nerve" is the only way things change. Saying sorry or the like gets the manufacturer off the hook, in their mind anyway, but nothing happens/changes until they have to pay reparation costs. This starts with a repair bill to the supplier who then passes the bill to the manufacturer. That's what I have found anyway. I also understand that NO manufacturer intentionally makes faulty parts but nevertheless, the problem needs to be fixed at the source.

[@richardharker2775]

Gosh! Sticky situation. Getting 2 bad products is going to leave a bad feeling. Again, your tenacity to not give up has me amazed. Wish I could find someone like you where I live.

[@johnjohannemann1220]

I too have been burned by “aftermarket” parts. At times they just are not worth the effort and time. As always good job diagnosing and presenting your material to your viewers.

[@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage]

Great Video Dan, funny how we brought out a video on ABS/WSS the same day :) Similar thing happened to me a good while a go with a LHF WSS on an Toyota Auris. New faulty wheel speed sensor lost me a lot of time and a bit of head scratching before rectifying the fault, I tend to check for good sensors then interchange them if possible with the faulty one on the vehicle, even if the wiring is longer on one to another it can be routed direct for a fast test. If quick and easy to remove I always go there first after that experience. Good info and I enjoyed watching it, keep up the good work.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks Gerard, I'm certainly going to check out your video! Thank for watching!👍

[@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage]

@@Diagnosedan No bother Dan, Thanks :)

[@RevMarket]

I Subscribed to your channel Gerard. Everyone else should!

[@patrickvanes4452]

Got me there.. 2 same brand sensors defect... Really thought someone put the bearing in backwards..

[@Diagnosedan]

That would also have made a great video!😉

[@HandyC]

@@Diagnosedan Ha when you started showing details about the bearing and already knowing the title I was HAHA what numpty put the bearing in backwards then... Later I was like OH!!!!

[@autophyte]

I thought that, too, but when the sensor gave a bad voltage reading when out of the hub, I discounted that theory. But I couldn't believe that three new sensors would be bad. I'd never buy that brand of component again If I was Dan.

[@tsurutuneado5981]

2 years late but honda models give a code that says something like "bearing installation error" and I find it kinda funny. They could've given a generic code like implausible signal but they specifically state you fucked up

[@kevinomara3293]

Just be glad it was an easy accessible sensor and not a 2 or 3 hour starter or other buried device.

[@dalehamlin7383]

Another amazing adventure.........no more Netflix for me! I will just binge all day with Dan. When I was a kid the best mechanic I knew used to taste the fluids that were leaking underneath the oilpan to make his diag. He would be turning in his grave if he could see this. Pure genius combined with dogged determination. And add to that, the skill and patience to communicate the whole thing to the great unwashed.......Well done Professor Dan. Thank you!

[@geirkleven3936]

Love your videos, you are the type of guru that every shop needs, but no one have, with todays advanced cars, diagnosing and changing parts dosent do it, a deeper understanding of how sensors and electronic works and how cars comunicate is priceless

[@TurboTimsWorld]

Great Video as always, I've had this problem several times, What I do before ordering a second sensor or even the first replacement sometimes is to make up a left to right bridge cable (as we know you cant get an old sensor out in one piece to swap sides with and some are shaped for its side) and check if the fault code changes sides.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for the feedback!👍

[@RevMarket]

Pin this to top.

[@coolbreeze1774]

Excellent idea !

[@dennisphoenix1]

I love the little iron fillings card , it's cool how it shows the magnets on the bearing , a picture is worth a thousand words

[@Diagnosedan]

😊👍

[@sunbeam8866]

I wonder if the aftermarket parts stores here in US even know about this card?! They now have problems even finding an OE style CV-boot or Toyota O/2 sensor gasket!

[@f.k.burnham8491]

Yourchannel was referred to by Eric O at South Main Auto in New York, USA. Great diagnosis job. To answer your question, the mfg. should pay for the wasted time, but in reality I doubt you will ever see a penny out of them, based in my experiences in the electronics industry. I ran into the same problems with bad electronics parts. It got so bad at one point, I had to check every part right out of the package, and refused parts made by several "name brand" mfgr's., as they had a record of selling defective/ DOA/ out of spec. parts.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for Checking out my channel. The manufacturer is in China🤣 But my parts suplier compensated me for the lost time.

[@zbynekm2918]

I did come across incorrectly fitted bearings, but never two new - good/bad parts for the same vehicle. As to your question, I believe that the best way would to charge the supplier, than the supplier recovers the funds from the manufacturer and everyone is happy. But in the real live we need to be flexible and in case you can't charge the supplier, than the supplier should make it up to you at the next parts purchase. Excellent video Dan, not only you are showing how to diagnose vehicles, you are also giving great tips how to retain the customers. You got yourself a new subscriber

[@ThePapa41]

The manufacture of the sensor, nice work Dan, Louis

[@ysensei587]

before ordering ,sometimes I would swap the good one (left) to the bad (right).

[@Diagnosedan]

There was a big chance of breaking that old sensor on the left side if i would have tried to remove it.

[@ysensei587]

@@Diagnosedan I see Dan. Your scope work is great!

[@michaelsieber6601]

Scope takes away the need for that

[@deadprivacy]

I have a test wire setup using old sensors and sensor plug connectors, just plug em across , whizz the wheels, tells you if its just a sensor or wiring/abs unit issue. do it both ways you confirm if the both sensor and wiring are ok or fubarred, taking out known good sensors often fucks em up good and proper.

[@izzydizzy1115]

Great video Dan. Reminds me of a GM car I repaired several years ago. It was an issue with a thermostatic cooling fan switch. I diagnosed the sensor as being bad, replaced it with an aftermarket sensor and still had a problem. After rechecking all the circuits (I spent hours) I decided to try another sensor. The parts house sent out the same aftermarket brand and I installed it but still no fix! My last hope was to order an OEM GM part and that fixed the problem. So I received two bad aftermarket sensors, which reminded me of what you presented in your video. As to who paid for it? Well our shop wound up "eating" the labor. I couldn't charge the customer and the parts supplier was no help. Lesson learned that sometimes using aftermarket electronic parts is not always the best option!

[@Diagnosedan]

Your right!👍 Thanks for sharing!

[@juerbert1]

Well, if the manufacturer gets away with junk like that, why should he pay for any quality control ?!

[@christurner6430]

@@juerbert1 Presume the parts are cheaper because they don't do any quality control!! That's left to the poor old customer.

[@Fleetmaster13]

I've been in the business 30 years. I'm having this happening more and more often. I fight with my supplier, even switched suppliers but all they will do is give me another sensor or credit for the bad one. As for recouping my lost time both my supplier and the manufacturer say too bad. Even when I buy an OEM part, and have a problem its the same answer. You're 100% right. The customer shouldn't have to pay for that but also the repair shop should not have to pay for that either. I don't know what the solution is. Worst part of it now is I start loosing confidence in the new parts and second guessing myself when diagnosing a problem.

[@Diagnosedan]

Fortunately it doesn't happen often in my shop and my parts suplier compensated me for the lost time😉

[@RALPH7109]

Had the exact same fault with a BMW. Some aftermarket electronics are shocking nowdays. I got my parts refunded and put a labour claim in to the supplier. They did pay me but not at my hourly rate. Keep up the good work Dan.

[@ClassicMercedesUK]

Nice work here Dan. Ive been there before, and the supplier never pays, they just supply the new part and call an end to the issue - we always loose out on the labour. We end up charging for our diagnosing time.

[@eduardomoura1377]

I wish we had mechanics like you in workshops in Germany. Your are really good!

[@zbigniewdomozych5744]

By the way do you know where is his shop located, just curious .?

[@kareembsi9747]

@@zbigniewdomozych5744 in Mijdercht in the Netherlands

[@mytubegermany]

Autodoctoren, Köln, z.B.

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

What does Keith say....NEW = Never Ever Works? He's freaking right! In this case I think that showing on video the manufacturer of the defective aftermarket sensors is payback enough so other people don't buy their junk haha

[@Diagnosedan]

To be honest thru the years it proved to be quite a good brand, that why is was supprised when it didn't work. Fortunately it doesn't happen often in my shop😊 My parts suplier compensated me for the lost time. Thanks for watching!

[@alanmatthews5949]

What use to good is becoming bad and what was bad is still bad. Aftermarket manufacturer are interested in high volume low cost. You get what ya pay for.

[@69A12SuperBee]

Where were you my European friend when I was learning this stuff Wayback when? !! I absolutely love your videos and tutorials!

[@Diagnosedan]

I don't know how long ago Wayback when is😂😂 Thanks Hugh

[@alexandermossel6466]

Hi Dan, replaced 6 glow plugs on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD, original parts from the dealer. Two failed within one month! Replaced the CR2032 battery in the remote after 10 years of use. Within 2 months the SKIM module started to act up. Car would start but the engine would cut out after 5 seconds. Went through the entire diagnostics, turned out to be a crap battery in the remote. Funny enough it had enough power left to unlock the doors but not enough to send a proper key ID. Boeing found out a couple of years ago that there was a huge counterfeit spare part scam going on that had even reached the Airforce one. I let you guess what country these parts came from... Great show Dan, I have learned a lot. Cheers!

[@bunsoft2]

My first bet was that the bearing was changed and the sensor is either always on or always off. I would not even think that it is bad out from the box. Great work mr. Dan. I really enjoy your content. Thank you for it.

[@P_Manom]

It s awesome Dan, happy that you are compensated for faulty part. You have unleashed the real scenarios often encounter in the Automotive repair services. Even though I am not a professional I am somehow educated by your awesome video.

[@Diagnosedan]

That's good to hear!

[@tinkerwest]

Another scenario where "new does not mean good." Also, I would consider any effort to seek restitution from manufacturer to be not just costly but, ultimately, futile. Move on to the next battle knowing your intellect and skill prevailed once again. Excellent presentation.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks! The parts suplier compensated me for the lost time😊

[@RevMarket]

tinkerwest NEW NEVER EVER WORKED?

[@subscribeplease3920]

everyday i learn from diadnosdan even who will pay for this and that ... thanks alot wish you the best

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks ibra!👍

[@richardwallinger1683]

top quality diagnosing .. the supplier is probably only responsible to exchange the faulty sensor . What a bummer .. you explained the / your faulting methods so well even 76 year old dummy like me got it .. Thanks again for fixing it again .

[@pulserrrg.9521]

Should be the supplier if there any good. Most of the time they will cover all or half of the cost. That's only when the parts/sensor is DOA. Great work! It's nice to see someone who cares about getting the job done right the first time without over charging for parts or labor.

[@wyattoneable]

Wow Dan, that was a fantastic animation, explanation and editing of the video so that I could understand the sensor and the fix. I'm not in the business of auto repair but in all fairness the manufacture should pay for the lost hours. However, I know that could be hard, and how much more time are you willing to spend trying to get recovered hours? At the very least the manufacture needs to know they are producing faulty parts so (hopefully) they will correct the situation. Great video!

[@Diagnosedan]

My parts suplier is going to send them the link to this video, so they can correct the problem with these sensors. Thanks for the great comment!👍

[@cpcoark]

I agree with wyatt, You did a great explanation of a MRE. Never heard of that type before, Of course I'm just a shade tree mechanic so I learn as I need to. Videos like yours help me stay current with gotchas on these new vehicles. To think, I use to cuss all the vacuum systems put on in the 70's

[@PaulysAuto]

Agreed Wyatt

[@jonsmith1259]

Lesson learned! Test the new part prior to installing, as you did when you plugged it into the left side. You have, in a matter of minutes confirmed the new part is good, (or bad) prior to installation!

[@robertbrandywine]

Not a mechanic and wondered why he didn't do that.

[@MDAdams72668]

sometimes you can sometimes there are not 2 identical parts Even if you can it takes time(double to be exact) does the customer pay for that??

[@jamesdean7412]

It wouldn't save us much time as you would lose even if 10% of the parts are bad new. Not practical to do this everytime.

[@xsnrgy05]

Amazing as always Dan. Obviously the supplier is responsible for parts refund / replacement but the labour cost is unfortunately on the repairer, I have had the same issues, it’s not fair - but it’s a fact of life.

[@andyc1701d]

Hi Dan had this in the past. It should be the manufacturer that pays gor the labour. Love your channel.

[@volkspete]

Fantastic video, as always Dan. As a shop owner and tech for 30+ years, I am SO SICK of faulty parts. It seems all parts manufacturers are going to China to save a few pennies and pocket the profits. We, the shops and, ultimately, the consumers pay. The labor lost is almost never reclaimed in my experience. I try to keep track of which brands work, and don't. I note on the invoice my supplier and brand, as well as country of origin. The parts don't always come out of the box bad, usually it's a failure shortly after install. I check with my supplier on returns. If an aftermarket part has a well under 5% return rate, it seems a safe bet. Anything over 10% return rate is a red flag. Keep up the top notch videos DD!

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks, normally Nipparts is a great brand. The parts suplier compensated me for the lost time 😊

[@SimplyDiagnostics]

Great video Dan, it just goes to show the pitfalls when using aftermarket sensors & parts. Personally for me, two invoices would go to out. One to the customer that sent you the car, for diagnosis and fitting of sensor and one to the part supplier for time difference fitting another sensor (wasted time). Imagine if you had a lift tied up because the part was faulty or if you had to refit the wheels and drive out to clear the ramp so you could do something else whilst waiting for the 3rd sensor, or worse, you were mobile like me and had to wait at your customers or drive out to collect the new part. Both a loss of time and money. It would be then up to your customer to claim your invoice back from their parts supplier. Nice shirt btw, although it looks a little tight lol

[@colinkensley]

OEM parts can also be faulty

[@SimplyDiagnostics]

@@colinkensley you're correct 👍

[@OneAuto]

Simply Diagnostics Agreed Steve, definitely 2 invoices and as we know it sometimes can be genuine parts not working out of the box. Great job Dan 👍

[@joevignolor4u949]

You would have to read the disclaimer that came with the sensor that didn't work. It may have a clause stating that "incidental damages" are not covered. If so the parts supplier is under no legal obligation to compensate you for lost labor. They still might do so because of "good will" but if they don't suing them probably won't be worth it.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for the feedback Steve, got a message from my parts suplier today. They are going to compensate for the time lost.😉

[@shemmo]

cheap people pay twice as my grandma said... sometimes it is better to stick with OE parts or the verified premium brands that produce parts for the car manufacturers. Today, we have a lot of junk/counterfeited parts around from asia... you know. Btw, great job and very educative video.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for the comment!

[@salvadorgutierrezr5914]

Good job fix Dan , hard decision who's going to pay , but my respect for you good mechanic👍👍👍👍👍

[@davida4743]

You’re just amazing. You are so talented and methodical in your work. You should be teaching ( I mean you are teaching us, which is greatly appreciated).

[@AP-bo1if]

I'm a DIY mechanic, the way I would have done this is simply move and install the wheel speed sensor from the left to the right (if it's possible). and then measure the voltage with a multi-meter when spinning the wheel. but great video though...yeah alot of aftermarket parts are crap.

[@Diagnosedan]

The origonal sensor on the left was corroded in the hub and would proberbly have snapped. It's not always possible to swap parts. That's why we need to know fundementals.😊

[@AP-bo1if]

@@Diagnosedan yes absolutely, the fundamentals are key especially when you do it professionally, like the excellent technician you are. when it comes to ABS sensors that depend on the bearings/wheel hub, I always purchase and replace the entire wheel hub assembly which comes with the ABS sensor (in this Honda in the video it seems it doesn't have wheel hub assembly, so ABS sensor is separate). When purchasing wheel hubs ensure the ABS sensor that come with it are tested and working. These wheel speed sensors cost about half the price of an entire quality wheel hub assembly here. Here in rust belt of Canada we have rust/corrosion to such a high degree due to salt, it just saves time and money to replace things in bulk than diagnosing and replacing parts individually. but ofcourse that assumes that the aftermarket part was working correctly, in your case it did not.

[@darinworthington]

One reason to only use OE parts. I have seen too many "aftermarket" parts fail right out of the box. So If you don't want to pay dealership prices, find who the OE maker is and buy that one.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for sharing your opinion!

[@dinupopa7805]

I feel the same. I like to go OE/OEM, whenever possible, even second hand parts when on my car, if new OE have a prohibitive price. Also had a 2003 Suzuki Swift, and considered Nipparts as an aftermarket parts supplier, but did not trust them.

[@Diagnosedan]

@@dinupopa7805 Normally Nipparts is quite a good brand.

[@davecc0000]

But then don’t you run into counterfeit problems? In the industrial electronics world you find counterfeit name-brand items for sale. If buying OEM parts, be sure to ask the OE manufacturer who is the *authorized* distributor in your part of the world and buy from them. Even Amazon sellers have been found to sell counterfeits.

[@abzzeus]

@@davecc0000 if they make it, someone will fake it.

[@memphisautodiagnostics4136]

Damn I did not see that coming. I think OZ should pay for it its the curse of his shirt. Keep'em coming Dan you are AMAZING.

[@OzMechanics]

Hans Auto Care i was thinking the same thing. damn my cursed shirt !!!! Well it made a awesome video

[@parochial2356]

I was thinking Dan would find a new wheel bearing had just been installed with either no tone ring installed [missing tone ring or non-ABS version] or installed with the tone ring facing in the wrong direction.

[@willefixit]

me too

[@Diagnosedan]

Ha ha, Well he gave me a shirt so that compensates 😂😂

[@turtlezed]

@@parochial2356 that was my train of thought as well as i was led down that path.......its not the first time the wrong bearing has been supplied or the thing is installed the wrong way round.....

[@haydenwyllie4456]

Excellent videos. I've had this happen. It sucks but have never been able to get the lost labour covered

[@richardharris8777]

My experience is that you will get your money back and possibly a little good will. Trouble is suppliers, trust their's more than they trust their customers. Take it on the chin and always check sensor output after changing. Dan, you are such a great teacher, the very best.

[@on-site4094]

You’re a great 👍. Tech/engineer your an amazing Teacher The Supplier should pay 💰 for it ,,,, they should stand behind the product they sell I all ways try to buy oem electrical Parts Depending on price it’s happened to me before with a coil pack everything else after market is usually good enough brakes shocks etc here in North America there’s a lot of after market shit on the market 👎

[@sunbeam8866]

Problem is, especially with older cars, the OE part is no longer available or it costs more than the car is worth! Last spring, I had to replace the distributor on a '94 Corolla. The customer wanted a new original Nippondenso unit, until I gave him the price. New aftermarket was $160. New Nippondenso unit, only from Toyota, was about $900! At least the $160 one is still working OK. Some parts I've started to look for in salvage yards because the aftermarket ones are too crappy!

[@mondotv4216]

I know little about auto electronics but I like the logical way you work. So I’m trying to work out what happens if the MRE shorts (which seems a very odd thing for a resistor to do, but MRE’s are completely new to me - in my experience resistors mostly go open or more commonly high value and usually from over heating or too much current) So you got a reading of 2.4V with the faulty units so the internal resistance is somewhere between 5 Ohms and say 50 Ohms assuming it draws a minimum of 50mA. So the unit must jump to that internal resistance when it reads a dead short across the MRE to give that 2.4V reading and the CAN error code. Correct? Just trying to learn. You fooled me - I thought for sure you were going to say the wheel bearing was on the wrong way around and I’m not even sure if thats possible - LOL

[@rimmersbryggeri]

I think these are losses we just have to take. I dont think the manufacturer will offer you any other restitution than a new part that you dont want or need. Only thing you can do is to let other people know so that they stop stocking the bad parts. I usually try to buy bosch sensors if they are available if they are not I'll try to find other OEM brands they might at least be more likely to compensate and also they are not that much more expensive these days. But also depends on what the customer is prepared to pay for.

[@parochial2356]

I would fire the supplier. However, if if there are no alternative suppliers that stand behind what they sell, I would become very picky and choosy on what brands/lines of parts I will buy.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for the feedback!👍

[@alexanderSydneyOz]

Tricky issue! I wonder what happened with all the other wheel speed sensors of that brand, which ended up being installed in cars? Anyway, the explanation is excellent, and the logical framework of the process is genuinely instructive.

[@davidgoddard5360]

Excellent video. These ABS sensors are Hall Effect devices that give a 2 to 20mA square wave output. The ECU detects the current changes by measuring the voltage drop across a shunt resistor. If the impedance of a replacement sensor doesn't match the specification of the ECU, it won't work. In this case it was mis-matched by taking too much current. All interesting stuff. Well done.

[@markobezjak6952]

For those kind of things, I need at least one beer to clear my mind.😉 Dan you really have things sorted in your head. 👍 You fixed it again and I learn something from you again.😎

[@Diagnosedan]

Only one beer Marko? 🤪

[@markobezjak6952]

The number depends on how much CAN Bus is interrupted in my head. I drink so long, that both communications perfectly mirroring each other. You dont need a scope to see that waveform. Visual inspection will do. Just look in the eyes and you will see. If both eyes are straight there is fault. Both eyes must looking in direction center of the head. 😂

[@MDAdams72668]

I give cutomers a choice OEM or aftermarket I explain the risk is on them as aftermarket won't cover my time that way they choose and are charged accordingly(either for the part or the extra time(if part NFG))

[@shaunsautorepairs5410]

2nd...😁😁 I would say if they supplied a faulty part the cost should be paid for by the supplier...it will however be pushed towards the manufacturer who will never admit fault. I had the same fault with a supplier giving me two incorrect starter motors for a mondeo stating this was the only starter listed. From the main dealer i got the correct one first time. The supplier would not pay towards my lost time haveing to fit the starter 3 times...

[@sinegra30]

A law suit will help

[@Diagnosedan]

That sucks 😬

[@bob2906]

It's a lesson learned don't buy anymore from that supplier. can we test them before we install ?good example of shitty parts..

[@htownblue11]

Dan, I had this exact problem on a RX330 Lexus speed sensor. Replaced “bad sensor” with 3 sensors of different brand. HOWEVER, when I was able to get my scope I found them to all be bad but all had proper resistance and wavelength in my neighbors RX 330 upon testing. I was at a loss. Then I hooked up a micrometer and measured the thickness of the aftermarket sensor housings. They were absolutely “thicker” than the stock new part that was indeed bad. I filed down the housing on the new one, to factory self thickness, thus reducing the distance between the teeth of the ring that create the wavelengths, and BAM. Fixed. Turns out some sensors are VERY sensitive to the distance between the ring /bearing magnetic teeth and the sensor itself.

[@printxii]

Like how you go through each step, you should have million subscribers, my opinion. My car been in the shop for a week before they made a guess and might be fixed.

[@Airman..]

Who ever took the decision to go with an aftermarket chinesium part has to eat it, any non OEM part comes with risks, i am not saying OEM is flawless but its DOA probability is close to zero due to factory's strict quality control that's why I always advise my customers to go with OEM, it's good in the long run and will save them and me the headache

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for the feedback!👍

[@user-cl5ov9dx5o]

You are absolutely correct.

[@bw5303]

Certainly agree with your conclusion. I have also encountered this issue with gaskets on Mitsubishi vehicles. Aftermarket valve cover gaskets leak while oem is the only solution that does not. Sometimes there is no substitute for the real thing.

[@terriecotham1567]

You have a good point buy any any after marker of parts for cars or aircraft should meet or exseed OEM - part I have used lots of after market parts on lots of things and had good luck its is possible for a after market or OEM suppler to get in a load of bad parts and then ship out the door to the customer in the US the FAA makes parts tracible bact to the maker , But in the car world its not all ways that ease. In the past on cars or aircraft I would take reading in sensors both new and old to build a base line of data for things just like this , Its possible to take a Ohms reading of the bad sensor and new sensor and build a base line of data this way if a parts comes in a simple quick check could show the part is possible or is bad long before you install it Love the time and trouble you took to track down the real reason for the trouble, lots of people don't thank new parts can be bad but they can I know been in that spot like lots of other people in life at work.

[@jothain]

I kinda disagree on that aftermarket part buyer is responsible. I mean I generally highly endorse usage of oem parts. However known fact is that there aren't ie. too many filter makers and there's ridiculous amounts of products just stamped with different labels. Ok, back to topic. Girlfriend had old merc that had worn ignition key cylinder. I got to local seller and he offered me two options. Oem and one about 1/3 cheaper. I asked seller that what's the difference? I got answer that it's all the same which one you order, so obviously I got cheaper. Fetched it and installed it, almost. Iirc it didn't steering lock at all. I disassembled lock and compared it to old and noticed that lock latch actually didn't move the way it was supposed to. Went to seller and he was very reluctant to reclamation and then began to mumble that you shouldn't cheap out on parts you get. It was very close that I would have climbed over counter and bitch slapped seller. I got hold of myself and just very loudly pointed his previous mentions about "its all the same" and he began to get back when I threw both parts to the table and in the end got oem quality for same price. But anyway, all in all. If you sell goods and say to your customer that it's all the same. You fucking are responsible for losses as seller. If you know there's difference, you'll tell truth about it. If it's shit quality, well it shouldn't be sold at all. It would've been totally different thing if he'd mention that there might be differences in quality on these parts.

[@trevorb7808]

Always a great inspiration. Thank you.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks Trevor👍

[@plymouthcars]

This happens far too often and is so frustrating! I always charge the supplier

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for the feedback Keith

[@manuelvpr]

As always awesome diagnostic work. It turns out that the sensor you replaced and the one the other shop replaced were deffective. You both dianosed the problem correctly but a deffective part gave you both a head ache. At some point I thought it was the bearing that was broken. Then I thought you should have swaped the sensors, which you kind of did at the end. Congratulations on your great videos.

[@tobydunbar1153]

Super smart and ethical technician/mechanic!! The supplier should come good for it and the manufacturer should compensate him. Great work!!

[@roberturkevich9014]

I use dealer only sensors been left holding the bag too many times

[@Diagnosedan]

🤣🤣👍

[@forevercomputing]

Dealers don't make them, they get Bosch, Lucas, Valeo to make them according to specification.

[@AJB1]

​@@forevercomputing- true, but at least they're made, and tested, according to manufacturer specification. 3rd party ones might be just as good, or might be completely wrong. Perhaps the ABS unit in this Honda needs a high impedance sensor. Nippart might not have seen the official spec and might be lower impedance. Perhaps that works in other models of car, but isn't actually to Honda's spec, and doesn't work here (I don't know how much load Dan's test light puts on the circuit). Or maybe it's a faulty batch, and they're not tested properly. Companies charging less than dealer parts have to save money somewhere, and the parts might not be as good.

[@raymorris952]

Me too, O/E sensors all the way, cam , abs, o2, anything electrical basically.

[@forevercomputing]

@@AJB1 Actually, the dealer wants to make their money back from the R&D with the vehicle. That new car maybe a few years in the making and they want to see profit within 2-3 years, so the prices are higher.

[@georgemiller4585]

The manufacturer should be paying for it but it’s always the shop that loses out

[@Pete-z6e]

George Miller , manufacturer will say damage caused by mechanic, hopeless!

[@carmo9693]

Or the manufacture will say we don't pay that high labor rate and pay much less.

[@dublindave5795]

They say the part is warrantied, not labor.

[@erasmmuss]

Usually in US when this thing happened the part supplier pays you back and they get the money back from the manufacturer it's that simple

[@jpgpearson]

what about your time

[@erasmmuss]

@@jpgpearson O'Reily and autozone pay back the book labor time for faulty parts , even if is the same part make and model on the same car due to part no being good from the box , I know in Europe this is not a practice because the legislation in this regard sucks and frankly they don't know how to do business in Europe

[@Cheepchipsable]

@@erasmmuss Wow, perhaps you haven't heard about the GFC and Automotive manufacturer collapses, in that wonderful economic paradise...

[@Cheepchipsable]

@@jpgpearson Not sure how often it happens elsewhere. It's always been the case that some aftermarket parts don't fit/work properly. I would have though market forces would apply and people would stop buying, forcing the company to fix there stuff or go broke. Dorman seems so bad, yet they stay in business because enough people buy their junk. To some degree it's an occupational hazard of using aftermarket parts. Maybe approaching the manufacturer when something is obviously wrong might help, (another KZbinr says he has tried this but no one seems interested). Maybe some civil action in a small claims court to recoup that cost might work.

[@MrGodsking]

hi from ireland,the factory that made it should pay for your time,and keep up the good work

[@shawnwalker6727]

The manufacturer should have to pay for all that time. Love the channel I think what you do is great and it's great how you explain it

[@SuperMarioDiagnostics]

Free from a parts house?! Not over here buddy 😆 nice shirt Dan!

[@BigDwww]

SKF , NTN give them free for promotional use, The parts house may not pass these on free though

[@Diagnosedan]

🤣🤣 I don't know if they give them to everyone but they gave me one for free.

[@RevMarket]

Free part and paid hours. Keep that supplier then!

[@immikeurnot]

I've never seen one of those cards. Then again, I've never had trouble telling which side has the tone ring.

[@geoffgrech6725]

Unfortunately we all know you wont get paid for lost time lesson learn t stay away from that brand in future

[@Diagnosedan]

My parts suplier compensated me for the lost time!

[@sprintertwo]

@@Diagnosedan Good news. In the end, the mfg will suffer as it should be and the supplier will learn something as well. Good on you for pursuing it that way. Also good on you for sharing.

[@philipmacduffie7612]

@@Diagnosedan I'm shocked they did the right thing.

[@matthewjenkins1161]

Who ends up paying all the additional labour charges in a situation like this? Neither the garages, nor the car owners fault, that parts are faulty in the box.

[@Pete-z6e]

Matthew Jenkins , guess who? ......customer.

[@Spahi77]

Shop should check that part is functional....I guarantee initial shop cleared code and left customer up shits Creek with no paddle

[@WheatMillington]

@@Spahi77 That's not what happened. Did you even watch the video?

[@MrDemonchild71]

The manufacturer is supposed to pay but they never pay the propper labour rates, they dictate the rate mechanic will receive

[@alancraigie7951]

Dan you’re the Sherlock Holmes if Auto Diagnostics and take the time to spell it out to you viewers. For that I’m very grateful and wish you worked close by as I’d pay for your time in a heart beat. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍🏻

[@richardwallinger1683]

that was like my mass airflow sensor .on my 2001 VW2.5 TDI Caravelle. the replacement seemed ok .. but loss of turbo boost returned intermittently .. a second replacement from another aftermarket supplier has totally cured my intermittent power loss.. The local garage diagnosed a turbo issue .. but I inserted a pressure line into my intercooler and proved that the turbo at 200,000 miles was operating like new . so I saved myself a fortune on not having to buy a new turbo . 75 years old EX 1980 Donnington GT championship winner / champion I l;ove your video's and clear speech ..

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

You sure they weren't Dorman? 🙈😂

[@Diagnosedan]

😂😂

[@eldoradony]

Maybe Nipparts in Europe is reboxed Dorman.

[@forevercomputing]

@@eldoradony Nippart sounds Japanese because Nippon is Japan in Japanese.

[@kevinomara3293]

Never had a bad Dorman part. Sorry if you did.

[@bigcheese781]

@@kevinomara3293 Agree, not buying that voids the headache. :D :D :D

[@DavidWright-yh8zx]

Manufacturer every time should have tested before supplying to the trade !.

[@bigpjohnson]

There are a LOT of shoddy aftermarket parts companies now, especially electrical parts and sensors. If its made in China and a no-name or unknown brand, its likely crap. Its one reason I mostly just buy OE and OEM parts now, it costs more but you know that it will 99% of the time work perfect.

[@simeunovicm]

They would need more time and money to test millions of parts than making them

[@frankmuhammad9660]

I hate when that happens. That’s why I deal with factory parts

[@Diagnosedan]

Yes but they aren't always available right away.

[@jasonmcnamara2079]

@@Diagnosedan or sometimes not available anymore so there's little choice

[@RevMarket]

jason mcnamara Or they also can be bad. Had 4 alternators put in my car from NY and Ohio. Voltage regulators were bad all across the country.

[@alfgortmans200]

My name is Alf from Australia. I guarantee my work. I’m a self taught (bush mechanic, self taught I started at 19 yrs and am 72 years now ). When I saw your video on wheel sensor after market unit, and you asked for other people’s opinion on who should pay for the extra time . You guarantee your work , parts’s people (if proven faulty should guarantee there product ) but as usual they will give you another one and replace it, but you will have to carry the burden of lost time.

[@smartcool1895]

Wow !!! You are a very genius guy... you always follow the specific way whenever you provide every single trouble shooting on cars. Sometime I do refer your you tube video in my own workshop internal training class for my staff, thanks for your well prepared video and for your systematic practices. I really love it.

[@McDiezel-iu9sv]

Diagnose Dan can he fix it? Yes he can!

[@Diagnosedan]

🤣🤣👍

[@renewedautodiagnostics6525]

Supplier should pay for it. And then they will deal with it with the manufacturer

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for your feedback!

[@Krotte96]

The supplier should pay for supplying a faulty part. Your contract of purchase is with him and he should claim from the manufacturer. Thought that was going to be a wheel bearing fault I must admit.

[@Diagnosedan]

Your not the only one😂😂

[@GamesForRomania]

Hi Dan! You are awesome and hope you keep up with the good work that you do. I would like to share my experience as well. I have had the similar problem with a crankshaft sensor from the same brand. I have also used clutch and different parts from the same manufacturer and the quality is bad to very bad. From different diameters, to new torn bushings, shock absorbers with play in the piston while pressing them. This brand gave me headaches and I recommend to everybody not using it. I hope you all the best in the world!

[@thomasfuller606]

Great Video Dan and definitely the Manufacturer should pay for your diagnostic.

[@dfm868]

The supplier must pay, it is then up to the supplier to get reimbursement from wherever he got it from. No way the garage should wear the labour

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks John 😊

[@joshstaton508]

I agree

[@nissanneal]

Part of the responsibility should fall on the person that decided not to use factory parts in the first place. He took a chance on aftermarket junk and lost.

[@Diagnosedan]

Thanks for sharing your opinion!

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

Cheaper to use the OEM part.

[@Alfran-yh4oo]

Sad but true...

[@MariusVerbavicius]

One of bigger bs. In this money world this is not a option. There must be offers for alternatives so OEM is not so expensive.

[@terriecotham1567]

No when a person or OEM sells a part its suppose to meet OEM specs lots of shops eat time but the OEM should pay for the time just like a OEM pays dealers for new car repairs

[@berkeleydojah]

theres a thing to be said about genuine parts..

[@Diagnosedan]

Your right

[@RevMarket]

DiagnoseDan you are right!

[@andyd9900]

Here in the states is is becoming common knowledge that when working on anything VVT you always use genuine parts. Otherwise get ready for another major job in about 25,000 miles because any of the aftermarket components will probably be junk.

[@lilchris26]

Another good video, I am a retired ex parts man and I love watching your videos so this was a good video for me. Of course Honda would say fit only genuine parts, by the way I worked mainly for Ford dealers most of my working life. Keep up the good work.

[@Flyingspann3r]

A good case why fitting aftermarket parts are not cost effective. First time fix if a Honda sensor was fitted. Great video Dan.

[@joebush5463]

when i send a bad part back they test it they say oh its good u just installed it wrong i give up

[@Diagnosedan]

I heard that many times😂😂

[@mneligan1]

Your Suppler must refund your lost time, he should be the one to clam from his suppler.

[@Diagnosedan]

They did!😊

[@kozmaz87]

Also like gas stations that have insurance on misfueling I wonder if car parts stores have insurance for bad parts causing damages...

[@NewLevelAuto]

Nice shirt!

[@Diagnosedan]

One size fits all he said 😂😂

[@stevetaylor2445]

I was sure hoping that Keith would have had an opinion on the faulty parts problem, the influence of parts with wings is a significant problem in North America and likely as bad in the Netherlands I am guessing?

[@NewLevelAuto]

@@stevetaylor2445 oh fine I'll actually watch the video now 😉🤪

[@stevetaylor2445]

Thankyou sir,I very highly and sincerely respect your and Dan's input on any diagnostic or automotive matter.

[@stevetaylor2445]

I am not however saying that the parts in the video were winged but I am sure that I am not the only one who has faced the change the same new part many times before getting a good one from the that unnamed manufacturer.

[@ahsamahi4385]

Wonderful advice from a wonderful person, i always learn something new from you, god bless you

[@samstvshow]

Cheers Dan-love everything you do. I think usually it falls to the garage guy to supply good parts.The customer in turn might then get compensation themselves from the bad parts company. Then you must wonder how it would all have gone if we had used the genuine Honda part though their prices are outrageous. Also,did you notice there was a lower voltage on the drivers side at first? It made me ask what made the first sensor fail..a low voltage would draw more current and would maybe have burnt out the first sensor electronics. Your test lamp lit up,but does the sensor draw more than your light-and only then do you get the volt drop. I have seen this kind of thing happen if the power wire is nearly chewed through somewhere,giving voltage,but breaks down under load.The higher voltage of 13.3 for the last back probe you did might then have been enough to overcome the resistance at the chafed part of the wiring. Just to clear up what I mean- I ask why ther was 12.9 at the left wheel and only 12.3 at the right wheel. And with a higher voltage later it evens up. And if you're with me,why did the first sensor fail? Personally I think you're bang on in actual fact,and there's no worries.