why do people doing this mod on N20?

[@hyde_official]

1. order the part here buymeacoffee.com/alainmb/e/227980 2. You have to tune the B58TU coils. Otherwise, you will get misfire codes. You must adjust the spark dwell values. This table is editable by your tuner. Works well on Bootmod3

[@lakshveermohesh2946]

Hello, what is the angle for the fitting on the hpfp?

[@hyde_official]

you drop it at the same angle as the N20 hpfp. you align it with the hard line fuel line that goes to the injector rail. and the other end uses a 120° AN fitting, and you get an AN6 to M14 adapter.

[@medicineman843]

You have the part number for the b58TU HPFP?

[@hyde_official]

here you go: 13518631642 note that this part number is sometimes interchanged with Gen 1. you need Gen 2. Gen 1 performs just as N20 oem hpfp. but Gen 2 is the upgraded performance, which has that smooth top bulge..

[@JohannesMasuku]

I hear you my guy but I want us to talk about reliability of this engine ,because I have a 2015 125i , it had a oil pump failure, and I have been checking hear in SOUTH AFTICA and most of this engines are having reliability issues , how do you sold that.

[@hyde_official]

This is a great insight and good question. Let me tackle this from a daily user perspective to an amateur enthusiast. so, with bmw low powered engines like the 3 cylinders and 4 cylinders. if you really just stick to regular maintenance: oil change, moderate driving... literally like a grama style, the car will last you. Moving on a little higher. if you still want to keep it healthy but want to push just slightly more, an OTS tune stage 1 on these engines is really all that you need. No bolt-on, nothing. you will still enjoy the car. better throttle response and feel a night and day difference just with stage 1 tune. The moment you start touching any drivetrain and powertrain modifications, the reliability is no longer the same. Either you improve it or you degrade it, the later is the most likely. it's a trade-off. Remember, BMW aren't like your Toyota. On the contrary, right now, I am on 103k miles, and I haven't had "major" motor failure: timing chain, or whatever. why? is it luck? No, it's just that the engine is still fine. I often say this, the reliability of an engine or a car is tied to the owner's personality. What you're using the car for, how you treat the car. Hence, I should be prepared to what will happen after treating the car in a certain way. It's an N20 after all. Your driving style will matter how to keep your car to last longer. If you go to subaru community, you will hear the engine blows up all the time. but statistically, it's the user fault the way they treated the engine, not the car manufacturer problem. you will meet owners with over 120k miles on stock unopened boxer engine. Every generation of an engine is an advance from the previous. The key is just to know what you want to use the car for. I owned 328i xdrive with N20. i had it up to 90k miles, I never had a single issue with powertrain, and I had never done the timing chain, nor opened it. currently with this 228i with now 103k miles, so far no major powertrain issues except the boost target that I can't reach but that is because of what I am doing with the car. it about owner's personality. When we start modifying out of EOM specs, we just need to be ready. Honestly, the truth is, N20 is not a bad engine. it's actually a great platform for low key users that just want to have fun and not pushing 1000HP. I like it because it is easy to work on, easy to find parts on after market. a lot of space in the engine bay. Only the turbo and sway bar replacement bothers me. Everything else is just there in front of you.

[@gurtejsandhu7]

Where is the link to buy this kit ?

[@hyde_official]

tiny.cc/b58adapter

[@joenoworyta6649]

Where’s the link though??

[@hyde_official]

I updated the description, please check it out.

[@Kyngcoupe]

Do they make them for the 335i?

[@hyde_official]

335i is N55, right? if so, there is a kit for it as well with the adapter.