Why Japanese Denim is the best in the world

If you've ever wondered who makes the best denim jeans in the world and why - this video is for you. Continuing with our Japanese Americana Series, I thought it would be appropriate to talk about why in the 21st century Japan makes the best denim in the world.
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Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:24 Video Objectives
0:55 (Pt. 1) History of Japanese Denim
3:00 (Pt. 2) History of Japanese Denim
4:24 Shuttle Looms in Japan
5:23 History Recap
6:10 Selvedge Denim vs Raw Denim
6:30 Selvedge Denim Explanation
6:55 Raw Denim Explanation
7:36 Selvedge/Raw Recap
8:15 Where to buy Japanese Denim
9:30 What should the next topic be?
9:59 pvv
Measurements:
Height: 6' 3"
Waist: 33"
Waist to Ankle (Outseam): 34"
Inseam: 32.5"
Sleeves: 27"
Shoe Size: US 11
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[@Indigololz]

There was a resurgence of American made denim in the early 2010s with brands like Raleigh, Baldwin, Rogue Territory, Railcar, Freenote, Tellason, Levi’s Vintage Clothing and others. However, all of these brands were reliant on a single factory, Cone Mills White Oak. This small group of brands kept the factory open, but as consumer preferences continued to shift towards cheap, fast fashion, there simply wasn’t enough demand to keep the factory open. It closed at the end of 2017 and pretty much dried up any remaining competency for Made in USA denim. I understand why so much of our manufacturing was outsourced to Asia, but it’s still sad to see America lose part of it’s cultural heritage as a result.

[@ThePowerhouseHD]

Thanks for sharing your genuinely interesting and unique story 🙌🏻👍🏻

[@xXcangjieXx]

All of Cone Mill's Draper X3 shuttle looms were bought by a new mill in Louisiana called Vidalia Mills. They even imported the whole wooden floor from the White Oak factory. Can't wait for more brands to use Vidalia's denim because it looks beautiful. So far I know Gap and a few other has but I can't understand why Levi's Vintage Clothing hasn't yet! Why they would use Kaihara Mills denim and finish the jeans in Turkey and Bulgaria instead of using American made denim that is made on the exact same looms as all old Levi's is beyond me.

[@LishaPasha]

Good post Sir! still have some 2 Baldwin jeans, and my Timberland x White Oak boots... priceless!

[@LeadLeftLeon]

@@xXcangjieXx Fingers crossed to see some Japanese brands using Vidalia Mills denim. Cone Mills denim would be great for a dressier pair of jeans. Prob with American Raw Denim Brands they go full blown Americana design

[@shadyyam2488]

perfectly explained it

[@NakedandFamousDenim]

Hi Drew, Great video. I thought I could add a little more information for you. Influence - While cinema certainly played a role in making jeans popular in Japan there is no doubt that the main influence was the American soldiers who were based here. People would buy jeans from American soldiers, or find them sold in black markets such as the Ueno market (which is still one of the best places in Tokyo to find jeans and army surplus today) Shuttle Loom vs Projectile Looms. The quality difference here is subjective, I wouldn’t make the claim that it is simply higher quality, you’d also have to define quality. Some people would equate that to durability, and to that I’d say there is virtually no difference. However, I would make the claim that there is a quality difference, an old-world quality, a rare quality... Since shuttle loom denim is slower to produce, the machines rattle and shake, the fabrics they produce represent that. If you want denim that is made closer to how denim was originally produced, you can only do it on a shuttle loom. Kind of like how an automatic watch isn’t more accurate clock compared to a digital one, but the quality and care that goes into making an automatic watch is what we pay for. (Among other things) Furthermore. Japanese mills did not buy any American looms. This is a huge misconception, and a rumor that has been floating around the raw denim world forever. I’ve toured practically every mill in Japan, and I’ve never seen an American loom. I’ve spoken to the owners of the mills directly. This did not happen. Instead, Japan produced their own looms. The automobile company Toyota had been producing automatic fabric looms since the 1920’s. Notice the machines that say Toyoda (with a da at the end) these are the Toyota produced machines. However, Japan only started producing denim in the 1970’s, and even then it wasn’t selvedge. The first Japanese denim was made on a projectile loom. Jeans that were produced in Japan before the 1970’s (and even throughout as the Japanese denim industry was still at its infancy) used imported denim from America. Either from Canton mills, or Cone mills. I’m sure other mills may have been used as well but these were the most popular. America still has those original shuttle looms currently being operated by Vidalia Mills, which acquired them from the White Oak Cone plant when they shut down a few years ago. I could go on for hours about denim. And if you ever have any questions, please feel free to reach out anytime. I’m happy to jump on a call or chat - DM on IG @nakedandfamousdenim or @bahzadt. I’m a huge denim nerd, I'm based in Japan, I design and produce jeans (only using Japanese fabrics), and I just want to make sure all the best information is getting out there. I’m not the best at making videos, so I leave it to excellent storytellers like you. I’m happy to talk denim and be an accessible resource. All the best, Bahzad

[@lukebrindleymusic]

very helpful!

[@DrewJoiner]

BIG thank you! I appreciate you clearing up some of my missteps

[@321787434]

I have a pair of denim jeans from you guys, by far one of the best jeans ive ever owned. Keep up the great work!

[@MementoVita]

@@321787434 lol I was just about to ask ain't this one of these super quality famous Japanese denim brands?😂

[@josephsy]

came here for this, cheers Bahzad

[@AONTrappy]

Many of these denim pieces happen to also be finished off with a unique pure indigo which can only be found in Japan. The indigo dye that is produced takes just as much time to make but as a result you get a vast amount of distinctive blue hues that can't be found anywhere else. I remember seeing a pair of Japanese denim + Kimono on someone during the bright summer day and it had an insane deep indigo color that is similar to how pure gold emits a deep yellow hue.

[@Rawrenzify]

I’m loving this series! Please talk about subcategories of Japanese Americana like American casual, workwear, military wear, and street wear. Sashiko and boro are a good topic to talk about too

[@SawOne729]

You fall in love with these jeans as you wear them. They conform to you like a glove. My 19 oz Samurai jeans stood on their own pre-wash. Now, they are like the softest material all broken in. Absolutely worth every penny.

[@jjjjjjj111]

love informational vids like this. educating the fashion youngin's!

[@rien2080]

Thank you for this! This was surprisingly informative!

[@gooo1762]

Really good video. Thanks a lot!

[@Godloves24]

Enjoyed this video. Great job

[@larissa-so9en]

Really great video bro! It is clearly well researched and has excellent production. Keep it up!

[@nicholassantino8213]

Keep spreading the denim culture to them youngins my guy, it’s about time to bring the wave back to more timeless & sustainable fashion. ✊🏻✌🏼

[@fiftyseventh]

Great video. I think you missed the stitching that can be seen when you cuff the jeans…usually a red stitching. Edwin is a common denim company in Japan, Levi’s made in japan edition, red card, evisu, and many others

[@hc661]

Do you mean the selvedge stitching

[@phatboy417]

When “*screenshot” appeared on the bottom as I screenshot it, it low key made my day 😂

[@algthedj]

Thank you!!! I love your energy.

[@jimshen0308]

excellent video! Perfect intro for future denim heads For me, it is the fit, fabric, and construction that differentiate a pair of jeans among the sea of options

[@aznguyener]

Awesome video man! Would love to hear more about Japanese Americana. I went to Blue in Green recently and the store is sick

[@THEAVATAR812]

Very well presented brother

[@kszk4750]

Dope vid, I totally relate to what you were saying about it being weird that denim used to be the hot thing for youth culture because of the internet and how ingrained it is into almost everything I did and still do growing up.

[@warrenslaughter393]

super informative and interesting bro, definitely subscribing

[@sandyradilla10]

Great video as always! Thank you for showing me why Japanese denim is the best and can't wait to see what is next!It would be cool to see your trip to Austin and see what the fashion scene is there since it's not a place people think of for fashion. Good luck and safe trip to Austin as well!!!

[@digitalmasterpiece5632]

like your channel,everything about it natural, and you assisting with information, easy to understand, great platform my brother

[@GaGaObession]

love the PVV! and I use your videos as a podcast to listen to whilst trying to sleep

[@haessfau5282]

Great video. I collect Evisu jeans and vintage Levi’s Denim Jackets. Excited about the Americana content

[@waltervictoriii9942]

I have heard the term Japanese Denim but never knew the specifics! Very cool to learn about that + selvedge/raw denim!

[@evanmagness7346]

Wish this video had existed when I first got into raw selvedge denim, great no nonsense explanation.

[@RickDrift]

Im not even that into jeans at all, But I find it so fascinating to see somebody be so into a subject that I didnt even know you could be that into.

[@sol9505]

Wow! I learned a lot from this video. I'm glad that it popped up on my suggested vids. You just gained a new subscriber. ☺

[@shanecorwin731]

Great video, really thorough and educational! For anyone else interested in denim, Naked & Famous has a channel where they livestream every Friday and geek out about denim (also the NYC store where I work come thru)! Love your vids

[@mightquinnable]

I been getting into Selvedge denim but of course, selvedge is made by different people and countries. Naked and famous, Nudie jeans and Evisu are the ones on the top of my head that i want. The overall layer of Japanese brands add some flair, plus i didnt know any japanese brands like that. Very useful video

[@anotherCGi]

Hey Drew! Been subscribed for a minute now, and wanted to give you props on the channel overall - keep doing what your doing! Another super good vid, the only nitpick I would mention is at 4:14 when you say projectile looms decreased the quality. Someone can correct me if I'm mis-speaking, but actually projectile looms allowed for better quality fabric. The idea being that a lot of things denim nerds like about fabric now (slub, nep, uneven weaving, etc.) were actually viewed as faults back then. Projectile looms are able to weave in a near-perfect manner, but they also remove a lot of that character from the fabric. That switch to projectile looms also went hand-in-hand with producers trying to cut cost as production was growing, which is where the association of projectile loom = bad quality originated.

[@dmshampton]

yooo, congrats on 50k Drew! Been awesome to be part of this community.

[@DrewJoiner]

Without you Dakota it wouldn't be possible

[@umyum1895]

Also to add to your list of selvedge there's also iron heart ,samuria jeans , and naked and famous which not only has so many fit and denim options but are known for some of there fun ideas like glow in the dark warp scratch and sniff jeans and also 32oz jeans that can stand up on there own. Oh

[@IanBalcomPhD]

holly smoke he read my mind on that last one

[@jcheungtv]

Wow didnt know about the difference of raw and selvedge! Fire vid drew 🔥

[@sweetsevian7763]

I really appreciate that you made a video about Japanese denim. As a Japanese denim lover I insist you visit Okayama in Japan someday. It’s got hundreds of extraordinary jeans shops and I can proudly say that all shops display the beauty of Japanese craftsmanship.

[@LarsLenningerJansen]

well done !

[@bflaakes]

A great take on Japanese denim! I love all the brands you listed but I would say the Osaka 5 would be a great point to include in terms of Japanese denim!

[@nicholassantino8213]

Glad to notice a true denimhead here

[@tsu08761e]

He has a new video on them kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPEhmCtqdqgrNU

[@juunji]

Hey Drew! Great video talking about Japanese denim! I’m currently getting into Japanese Americana myself and this video was very informative. Building upon this video, could you compare the differences between Japanese mills, fabrics, and what the ounces does to the denim? Like Kuroki mills, Nihon mills, Kaihara, and Kojima?

[@DrewJoiner]

10/10 suggestion I will look into making a video about this

[@juunji]

@@DrewJoiner awesome! Can’t wait to see what you do!

[@manaphyonfire]

That jacket is looking clean from the last pickup video. Tried to get my hands on it, was sold out.

[@moroboshi8503]

There was a lot of demand for vintage denim in Japan in the 90's. Vintage denim has a nice texture. Many celebrities wore vintage denim. For example, NIGO, HIROSHI FUJIWARA, TAKUYA KIMURA, PUFFY-amiyumi ...their MV [ PUFFY『これが私の生きる道] But vintage denim was expensive. So Japanese companies had to recreate vintage denim.

[@jawn7025]

Welcome back, Drew

[@DrewJoiner]

Jawn

[@stoneeight781]

quality recognizes quality

[@erickouz]

Lol loved the *screenshot* part, you already knew

[@la_screw]

the whole thing was my favorite thanks for that brands subbed

[@foodisenergy7300]

You’ve helped me find my style. You’re amazing bro!! Pvv gang!!🥂

[@unploas]

Raw denim is more about whether the dye colour has been fixed or not, and over time the dye fades due to wear which is what causes the fade patterns people love in raw denim. Non-raw denim has had the dye fixed which means it can be washed and worn and the colour won’t fade in the same way, as they’re designed to stay the same colour as they were originally. Both have their positives, it depends on what you’re wanting from a pair of jeans

[@sebastianalejandromorales7055]

I love that he keep it under 15 min

[@dandaman6223]

8:48 love this guy 🤣 he read my mind !

[@DrewJoiner]

🤝😁

[@hjaltewww]

babe wake up new drew video is out

[@liowalker5365]

as a massive denim fan I think you did a great job introducing this to your audience, I feel like its a video I would have liked a lot when i was getting into denim (still like it, I just knew it all). Can't wait for the next video!

[@vcpr1933]

this video made me subscribe

[@mofu_5023]

This video finally reached me,a denim loving Japanese.

[@bren5240]

I have been saying this to people for years and they always disagreed. I'm glad you share the same take on this; ksubi being one of the many Japanese denim brands, will always be an S-tier jean for me because of the comfortability.

[@xXcangjieXx]

Just picked up a pair of Sugar Cane 1966 a few days ago! I think you should’ve featured Warehouse in your brand list, and also I believe Leftfield is an American brand that use American denim!

[@onparoll6067]

Make a video yourself douche bag

[@kodeling5248]

thanks bro

[@philipbeadle6446]

I always have 2 recommendations for people who want to get in to selvage or raw denim. First, start with a pair of simple blue jeans from a less expensive company like Gustin. See how you like em, get em worn in and just feel out the process before you buy more. Wait a minute and save up some money before investing in a second pair. Second, for your second pair, look at different brands and the fits they offer. It's worthwhile to find something that fits your body type to make the break in easier, and it also makes it easier to really wear em all the time and get those cool fades going. From there, it's a huge rabbit hole of different fits, colors, materials and cool details to explore. Take your time and have fun!

[@NiiloHargut]

Hell yes, finally I'm awake for your sunday upload! Almost always watch them with my monday morning coffee, love the tradition, and the content, keep it up! #pvv gang

[@X9.1433]

it's my first video of yours and I'm already a subscriber 😌🖤

[@DrewJoiner]

🤝❤️

[@Devananta-Rafiq]

Good research for this one. I'm in a search for new denim, but not the japanese one yet. Searching for vintage Helmut Lang.

[@umyum1895]

One time I found pure blue okoyama selvedge denim in the thrift for 7 dollars. I wore them for a while but I ended up selling them, but indo miss the unique slubby supple hand they had and at one point we're my best blue jeans.

[@aseamin40]

All I have is Selvedge denim cone mills and especially Japanese! Just ordered those Rail Car Japanese olive selvedge jeans!

[@MLGBrownCat]

Currently wearing in my Orslow 105, best jeans I've ever had!

[@_calvinkao]

That’s dope man! Always good to know ppl that are into Orslow. Very few ppl are into Orslow

[@W0rldViralDaily]

They Bought A Lot of the Old Jean Machines from 80 years ago when machines still produced quality denim.

[@xobile.123]

the "*screenshot" scared me 😭

[@suuor3459]

there’s a store called couverture & the garbstore in london that has many japanese americana brands

[@galore2004]

Subscribed

[@azatooth1]

Great video! But I would like to know one thing: from what movie are the shots at the start of the video, the photography looks gorgeous

[@user-zo7fx9wt6x]

You definitely should check out Kojima Genes!! I got one 29oz super heavy raw denim from my uncle a few years ago saying they don't make those anymore cuz the cloth was too thick to assembly and difficult to make! I think its difficult to obtain this nowadays but i really want to hear your review about it. Much love from JP!!!

[@user-nd6kj8yp8u]

yessirr repping my country, you should come to Tokyo Drew!!

[@devindepina7660]

shout out to you brother for putting me on to these fire websites. finally, so good quality stuff worth my hard earned money.

[@DrewJoiner]

🤝

[@dennisclanton5342]

Strike gold is often overlooked.

[@filipusmanson2938]

Cool vid

[@danielgonzalez5017]

Self Edge needs a mention

[@andyliang3487]

Your videos are informative and helpful, thank you Drew!

[@blvckhippie4865]

A dive in Japanese street culture would be 🔥

[@carlwest5936]

Also since you asked, do red wing boots next. The best price to quality ratio boot in existance.

[@carlwest5936]

My favorite brand is Bravestar, Japanese denim but cut, sewn & stitched in America with a huge 10oz thick leather jacron patch. I got a 22oz monster, 18oz, 16.5oz redcast, 14.5oz slubby one, and a 13.5 broken twill. I also got APC 14.5oz New Standards, Nudie Grim Tim Dry Selvedges 13.75oz from Kaharia mills, 13oz Lean dean dry selvedge, Naked & Famous 13.75 Left hand twill and 15oz right hand twills & 12oz colorfast black selvedges and Unbranded 21oz tapers and 14.5 tapers. And a pair of uniqlo stretch selvedges just for very casual events. I like supporting American brands. But I’m looking to get some Iron Hearts soon. Needless to say I have a selvedge addiction lol. Selvedge has been poppin since the early 2010’s rightfully so. I can never go back to non-selvedge after feeling the pure quality and seeing the beautiful fades. My next cop is a “solid black” selvedge from N&F, they fade into a grey/white it looks so cool.

[@dennisclanton5342]

Give strike gold a look. Killer quality and not crazy prices.

[@nickbeach2679]

Great video man. Definitely stop into Stag Provisions in Austin and I know you're a pizza guy, home slice pizza is right next to it so you should hit there when you're there too!

[@wilskill111]

Did you know that ‘denim’ comes from ‘de Nîmes’, a little village in the south of France. Atelier de Nîmes is a brand from there. You should definitely check it out!

[@DrewJoiner]

Very cool nugget

[@Manuel-kx4qt]

Sick vid vro very informative and str8 to the point! Do you have any raw selvedge pants ur working on fading?

[@DrewJoiner]

No, not yet but I will soon

[@brazador]

my favorite part is the part where i screenshot

[@christopherblade5984]

Greta video. Evisu is one of my fave Jap Jeans.

[@memelord3348]

He don’t miss

[@dantontominagas]

if you just wanna try japanese denim for cheap, uniqlo(past employee) has a decent quality selvedge for literally less than 70 i think.. I have 3 pairs they are so cheap I hemmed them in different way too to get different looks. Then you can move up into the more expensive brands

[@sultansandsneakers]

How would you rate a brand like Iron Heart? Also since you’re in Colorado, maybe do a feature on Beams Plus particularly the kind of pieces carried by Canoe Club.

[@lukeaustin1277]

Dawson Denim, make a real top quality authentic pair of blue jeans, in Brighton UK. Using old and authentic machinery, importing Japanese denim and making the best product I’ve ever personally worn when it comes to denim. It has a real appreciation and love of labour as the couple who runs it, make denim from the perspective of the buyer/ lover as of whom they themselves are. I recommend the wide leg jeans, which I have myself.

[@christinegeorge1805]

Where did you get that shirt?? I love it!

[@leftlanechampion]

Hope you do a vid on Blokecore

[@stevenbaek4082]

1:13 it’s q picture of 90s Korea

[@remmasangcay5348]

I'm been loving denim alot lately 🤣, btw have you seen some of cee are dee vids?

[@DrewJoiner]

Love to hear it! and no what are the cee are dee vids

[@remmasangcay5348]

@@DrewJoiner He is a KZbinr who makes video on denim. Also he made video on why actually selvedge is not better. Also can you do a video on denim jackets?😅 Here's the link.kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4DKl4Klft6mgsU

[@gothamgalleria]

Thank you for checking out my last video and for your comment. Great video as usual!!! 👍

[@DrewJoiner]

❤️

[@arnontvache6338]

You should have mentioned The Osaka 5 - Studio D’Artisan, Denime, Warehouse, Fullcount and Evisu.

[@christopherkirkland7856]

I did.my thesis on this in grad school. Japanese denim is basically American denim.

[@tonyguo8646]

Could you do a raw/selvedged denim try on and show your favorite pairs if you own any? :)

[@DrewJoiner]

I actually don't have any but sooon

[@LouieMcFly23]

I see those jjjjjound v3's in the background 👀

[@MarcoEnero]

Another one brand I want to add is Doublevolante, A made in Okinawa. I’m here but can’t get one. Waiting time is very long 😬

[@THECASUALco]

TAI - YOH - ZO - KU. You got it super close enough though. Doing good work here bruh!

[@DrewJoiner]

Thank you man !! I love your videos

[@alessandra1908]

Not me listening to this while wearing H&M jeans

[@alexreiser6325]

it's not my style but holy shit that is a AMAZING looking jacket/shirt

[@lilgangster_savage8292]

I liked the history part