Why Japanese Denim is the best in the world

[@Indigololz]

There was a resurgence of American made denim in the early 2010s with brands like Raleigh, Baldwin, Rogue Territory, Railcar, Freenote, Tellason, Levi’s Vintage Clothing and others. However, all of these brands were reliant on a single factory, Cone Mills White Oak. This small group of brands kept the factory open, but as consumer preferences continued to shift towards cheap, fast fashion, there simply wasn’t enough demand to keep the factory open. It closed at the end of 2017 and pretty much dried up any remaining competency for Made in USA denim. I understand why so much of our manufacturing was outsourced to Asia, but it’s still sad to see America lose part of it’s cultural heritage as a result.

[@ThePowerhouseHD]

Thanks for sharing your genuinely interesting and unique story 🙌🏻👍🏻

[@xXcangjieXx]

All of Cone Mill's Draper X3 shuttle looms were bought by a new mill in Louisiana called Vidalia Mills. They even imported the whole wooden floor from the White Oak factory. Can't wait for more brands to use Vidalia's denim because it looks beautiful. So far I know Gap and a few other has but I can't understand why Levi's Vintage Clothing hasn't yet! Why they would use Kaihara Mills denim and finish the jeans in Turkey and Bulgaria instead of using American made denim that is made on the exact same looms as all old Levi's is beyond me.

[@LishaPasha]

Good post Sir! still have some 2 Baldwin jeans, and my Timberland x White Oak boots... priceless!

[@LeadLeftLeon]

@@xXcangjieXx Fingers crossed to see some Japanese brands using Vidalia Mills denim. Cone Mills denim would be great for a dressier pair of jeans. Prob with American Raw Denim Brands they go full blown Americana design

[@shadyyam2488]

perfectly explained it

[@Rawrenzify]

I’m loving this series! Please talk about subcategories of Japanese Americana like American casual, workwear, military wear, and street wear. Sashiko and boro are a good topic to talk about too

[@SawOne729]

You fall in love with these jeans as you wear them. They conform to you like a glove. My 19 oz Samurai jeans stood on their own pre-wash. Now, they are like the softest material all broken in. Absolutely worth every penny.

[@AONTrappy]

Many of these denim pieces happen to also be finished off with a unique pure indigo which can only be found in Japan. The indigo dye that is produced takes just as much time to make but as a result you get a vast amount of distinctive blue hues that can't be found anywhere else. I remember seeing a pair of Japanese denim + Kimono on someone during the bright summer day and it had an insane deep indigo color that is similar to how pure gold emits a deep yellow hue.

[@dandaman6223]

8:48 love this guy 🤣 he read my mind !

[@DrewJoiner]

🤝😁

[@nicholassantino8213]

Keep spreading the denim culture to them youngins my guy, it’s about time to bring the wave back to more timeless & sustainable fashion. ✊🏻✌🏼

[@anotherCGi]

Hey Drew! Been subscribed for a minute now, and wanted to give you props on the channel overall - keep doing what your doing! Another super good vid, the only nitpick I would mention is at 4:14 when you say projectile looms decreased the quality. Someone can correct me if I'm mis-speaking, but actually projectile looms allowed for better quality fabric. The idea being that a lot of things denim nerds like about fabric now (slub, nep, uneven weaving, etc.) were actually viewed as faults back then. Projectile looms are able to weave in a near-perfect manner, but they also remove a lot of that character from the fabric. That switch to projectile looms also went hand-in-hand with producers trying to cut cost as production was growing, which is where the association of projectile loom = bad quality originated.

[@fiftyseventh]

Great video. I think you missed the stitching that can be seen when you cuff the jeans…usually a red stitching. Edwin is a common denim company in Japan, Levi’s made in japan edition, red card, evisu, and many others

[@hc661]

Do you mean the selvedge stitching

[@umyum1895]

Also to add to your list of selvedge there's also iron heart ,samuria jeans , and naked and famous which not only has so many fit and denim options but are known for some of there fun ideas like glow in the dark warp scratch and sniff jeans and also 32oz jeans that can stand up on there own. Oh

[@unploas]

Raw denim is more about whether the dye colour has been fixed or not, and over time the dye fades due to wear which is what causes the fade patterns people love in raw denim. Non-raw denim has had the dye fixed which means it can be washed and worn and the colour won’t fade in the same way, as they’re designed to stay the same colour as they were originally. Both have their positives, it depends on what you’re wanting from a pair of jeans

[@juunji]

Hey Drew! Great video talking about Japanese denim! I’m currently getting into Japanese Americana myself and this video was very informative. Building upon this video, could you compare the differences between Japanese mills, fabrics, and what the ounces does to the denim? Like Kuroki mills, Nihon mills, Kaihara, and Kojima?

[@DrewJoiner]

10/10 suggestion I will look into making a video about this

[@juunji]

@@DrewJoiner awesome! Can’t wait to see what you do!

[@RickDrift]

Im not even that into jeans at all, But I find it so fascinating to see somebody be so into a subject that I didnt even know you could be that into.

[@phatboy417]

When “*screenshot” appeared on the bottom as I screenshot it, it low key made my day 😂

[@sweetsevian7763]

I really appreciate that you made a video about Japanese denim. As a Japanese denim lover I insist you visit Okayama in Japan someday. It’s got hundreds of extraordinary jeans shops and I can proudly say that all shops display the beauty of Japanese craftsmanship.

[@bflaakes]

A great take on Japanese denim! I love all the brands you listed but I would say the Osaka 5 would be a great point to include in terms of Japanese denim!

[@nicholassantino8213]

Glad to notice a true denimhead here

[@tsu08761e]

He has a new video on them kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPEhmCtqdqgrNU

[@aznguyener]

Awesome video man! Would love to hear more about Japanese Americana. I went to Blue in Green recently and the store is sick

[@xXcangjieXx]

Just picked up a pair of Sugar Cane 1966 a few days ago! I think you should’ve featured Warehouse in your brand list, and also I believe Leftfield is an American brand that use American denim!

[@onparoll6067]

Make a video yourself douche bag

[@jimshen0308]

excellent video! Perfect intro for future denim heads For me, it is the fit, fabric, and construction that differentiate a pair of jeans among the sea of options

[@moroboshi8503]

There was a lot of demand for vintage denim in Japan in the 90's. Vintage denim has a nice texture. Many celebrities wore vintage denim. For example, NIGO, HIROSHI FUJIWARA, TAKUYA KIMURA, PUFFY-amiyumi ...their MV [ PUFFY『これが私の生きる道] But vintage denim was expensive. So Japanese companies had to recreate vintage denim.

[@bren5240]

I have been saying this to people for years and they always disagreed. I'm glad you share the same take on this; ksubi being one of the many Japanese denim brands, will always be an S-tier jean for me because of the comfortability.

[@rien2080]

Thank you for this! This was surprisingly informative!

[@mightquinnable]

I been getting into Selvedge denim but of course, selvedge is made by different people and countries. Naked and famous, Nudie jeans and Evisu are the ones on the top of my head that i want. The overall layer of Japanese brands add some flair, plus i didnt know any japanese brands like that. Very useful video

[@larissa-so9en]

Really great video bro! It is clearly well researched and has excellent production. Keep it up!

[@carlwest5936]

My favorite brand is Bravestar, Japanese denim but cut, sewn & stitched in America with a huge 10oz thick leather jacron patch. I got a 22oz monster, 18oz, 16.5oz redcast, 14.5oz slubby one, and a 13.5 broken twill. I also got APC 14.5oz New Standards, Nudie Grim Tim Dry Selvedges 13.75oz from Kaharia mills, 13oz Lean dean dry selvedge, Naked & Famous 13.75 Left hand twill and 15oz right hand twills & 12oz colorfast black selvedges and Unbranded 21oz tapers and 14.5 tapers. And a pair of uniqlo stretch selvedges just for very casual events. I like supporting American brands. But I’m looking to get some Iron Hearts soon. Needless to say I have a selvedge addiction lol. Selvedge has been poppin since the early 2010’s rightfully so. I can never go back to non-selvedge after feeling the pure quality and seeing the beautiful fades. My next cop is a “solid black” selvedge from N&F, they fade into a grey/white it looks so cool.

[@dennisclanton5342]

Give strike gold a look. Killer quality and not crazy prices.

[@haessfau5282]

Great video. I collect Evisu jeans and vintage Levi’s Denim Jackets. Excited about the Americana content

[@jcheungtv]

Wow didnt know about the difference of raw and selvedge! Fire vid drew 🔥

[@philipbeadle6446]

I always have 2 recommendations for people who want to get in to selvage or raw denim. First, start with a pair of simple blue jeans from a less expensive company like Gustin. See how you like em, get em worn in and just feel out the process before you buy more. Wait a minute and save up some money before investing in a second pair. Second, for your second pair, look at different brands and the fits they offer. It's worthwhile to find something that fits your body type to make the break in easier, and it also makes it easier to really wear em all the time and get those cool fades going. From there, it's a huge rabbit hole of different fits, colors, materials and cool details to explore. Take your time and have fun!

[@Blake-ov3st]

The signature of Drew's channel is his long ass outro :))))

[@kszk4750]

Dope vid, I totally relate to what you were saying about it being weird that denim used to be the hot thing for youth culture because of the internet and how ingrained it is into almost everything I did and still do growing up.

[@aseamin40]

All I have is Selvedge denim cone mills and especially Japanese! Just ordered those Rail Car Japanese olive selvedge jeans!

[@shanecorwin731]

Great video, really thorough and educational! For anyone else interested in denim, Naked & Famous has a channel where they livestream every Friday and geek out about denim (also the NYC store where I work come thru)! Love your vids

[@suuor3459]

there’s a store called couverture & the garbstore in london that has many japanese americana brands

[@evanmagness7346]

Wish this video had existed when I first got into raw selvedge denim, great no nonsense explanation.

[@ゴリラがバナナをくれる日]

You definitely should check out Kojima Genes!! I got one 29oz super heavy raw denim from my uncle a few years ago saying they don't make those anymore cuz the cloth was too thick to assembly and difficult to make! I think its difficult to obtain this nowadays but i really want to hear your review about it. Much love from JP!!!

[@minceraftfornite4334]

2:37 well it makes sense since the only new things young ppl could get at that time were cars or clothes so those were the only thing that was available for them to get excited about

[@liowalker5365]

as a massive denim fan I think you did a great job introducing this to your audience, I feel like its a video I would have liked a lot when i was getting into denim (still like it, I just knew it all). Can't wait for the next video!

[@GaGaObession]

love the PVV! and I use your videos as a podcast to listen to whilst trying to sleep

[@umyum1895]

One time I found pure blue okoyama selvedge denim in the thrift for 7 dollars. I wore them for a while but I ended up selling them, but indo miss the unique slubby supple hand they had and at one point we're my best blue jeans.

[@dantontominagas]

if you just wanna try japanese denim for cheap, uniqlo(past employee) has a decent quality selvedge for literally less than 70 i think.. I have 3 pairs they are so cheap I hemmed them in different way too to get different looks. Then you can move up into the more expensive brands

[@wilskill111]

Did you know that ‘denim’ comes from ‘de Nîmes’, a little village in the south of France. Atelier de Nîmes is a brand from there. You should definitely check it out!

[@DrewJoiner]

Very cool nugget

[@algthedj]

Thank you!!! I love your energy.

[@sol9505]

Wow! I learned a lot from this video. I'm glad that it popped up on my suggested vids. You just gained a new subscriber. ☺

[@waltervictoriii9942]

I have heard the term Japanese Denim but never knew the specifics! Very cool to learn about that + selvedge/raw denim!

[@IanBalcomPhD]

holly smoke he read my mind on that last one

[@digitalmasterpiece5632]

like your channel,everything about it natural, and you assisting with information, easy to understand, great platform my brother

[@jjjjjjj111]

love informational vids like this. educating the fashion youngin's!

[@manaphyonfire]

That jacket is looking clean from the last pickup video. Tried to get my hands on it, was sold out.

[@sandyradilla10]

Great video as always! Thank you for showing me why Japanese denim is the best and can't wait to see what is next!It would be cool to see your trip to Austin and see what the fashion scene is there since it's not a place people think of for fashion. Good luck and safe trip to Austin as well!!!

[@Godloves24]

Enjoyed this video. Great job

[@stevenbaek4082]

1:13 it’s q picture of 90s Korea

[@stoneeight781]

quality recognizes quality

[@mofu_5023]

This video finally reached me,a denim loving Japanese.

[@THEAVATAR812]

Very well presented brother

[@lukeaustin1277]

Dawson Denim, make a real top quality authentic pair of blue jeans, in Brighton UK. Using old and authentic machinery, importing Japanese denim and making the best product I’ve ever personally worn when it comes to denim. It has a real appreciation and love of labour as the couple who runs it, make denim from the perspective of the buyer/ lover as of whom they themselves are. I recommend the wide leg jeans, which I have myself.

[@gooo1762]

Really good video. Thanks a lot!

[@azatooth1]

Great video! But I would like to know one thing: from what movie are the shots at the start of the video, the photography looks gorgeous

[@offcyclops]

my favorite part is the part where i screenshot

[@warrenslaughter393]

super informative and interesting bro, definitely subscribing

[@Devananta-Rafiq]

Good research for this one. I'm in a search for new denim, but not the japanese one yet. Searching for vintage Helmut Lang.

[@sultansandsneakers]

How would you rate a brand like Iron Heart? Also since you’re in Colorado, maybe do a feature on Beams Plus particularly the kind of pieces carried by Canoe Club.

[@erickouz]

Lol loved the *screenshot* part, you already knew

[@carlwest5936]

Also since you asked, do red wing boots next. The best price to quality ratio boot in existance.

[@dmshampton]

yooo, congrats on 50k Drew! Been awesome to be part of this community.

[@DrewJoiner]

Without you Dakota it wouldn't be possible

[@W0rldViralDaily]

They Bought A Lot of the Old Jean Machines from 80 years ago when machines still produced quality denim.

[@arnontvache6338]

You should have mentioned The Osaka 5 - Studio D’Artisan, Denime, Warehouse, Fullcount and Evisu.

[@jawn7025]

Welcome back, Drew

[@DrewJoiner]

Jawn

[@xobile.123]

the "*screenshot" scared me 😭

[@MLGBrownCat]

Currently wearing in my Orslow 105, best jeans I've ever had!

[@_calvinkao]

That’s dope man! Always good to know ppl that are into Orslow. Very few ppl are into Orslow

[@tbec50]

I'm from Austin, great things I would suggest for u to do there non fashion wise is going to zilker park its a great place to chill at, play volleyball or soccer there is also lake Travis and a lake right by zilker Park that you can rent a canoe or padle board at and chill with a bunch of people Food places I'd say find some good BBQ place, or Torchy's tacos there is also rainy street that has a bunch of cool bars and a food truck park

[@mandoloriansoju3841]

As someone living in Japan for a minute. I’d recommend you check out Kojima Genes. I got a pair from them recently and the quality is top notch and not too bad pricing

[@BirdieDev]

Damn I didn't know Mr. Metal Gear Solid himself made jeans too. What a renaissance man!

[@Zecyon]

i’ve been wearing a pair of iron hearts for about 5 months and i’ve never had a better pair of pants in my life. will never go back to regular store bought denim

[@sebastianalejandromorales7055]

I love that he keep it under 15 min

[@EmphasisOnJ]

Naked & Famous are my favorite brand of raw selvage jeans. If you read that Please check them out they’re on KZbin.

[@foodisenergy7300]

You’ve helped me find my style. You’re amazing bro!! Pvv gang!!🥂

[@blvckhippie4865]

A dive in Japanese street culture would be 🔥

[@remmasangcay5348]

I'm been loving denim alot lately 🤣, btw have you seen some of cee are dee vids?

[@DrewJoiner]

Love to hear it! and no what are the cee are dee vids

[@remmasangcay5348]

@@DrewJoiner He is a KZbinr who makes video on denim. Also he made video on why actually selvedge is not better. Also can you do a video on denim jackets?😅 Here's the link.kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4DKl4Klft6mgsU

[@plutopowered1116]

Love your video but I think a couple things are incorrect. The Japanese aren't using the old Draper Looms that were imported from the US, (well, they're using some but...) they're using their own Looms (Toyoda looms) and they're technically not "better" than the looms used today. The looms that are used today are more efficient and actually better at making denim but the older looms create denim that definitely has more "character" (i.e. defects, slubs) and are slower allowing for more control.

[@gothamgalleria]

Thank you for checking out my last video and for your comment. Great video as usual!!! 👍

[@DrewJoiner]

❤️

[@THECASUALco]

TAI - YOH - ZO - KU. You got it super close enough though. Doing good work here bruh!

[@DrewJoiner]

Thank you man !! I love your videos

[@nickbeach2679]

Great video man. Definitely stop into Stag Provisions in Austin and I know you're a pizza guy, home slice pizza is right next to it so you should hit there when you're there too!

[@christopherbrunson1232]

😂I died!!!!! When i took a screenshot of the list of good Jap-Denim brands, and your video posted the word “screenshot” at the bottom. Great content!!!

[@christopherkirkland7856]

I did.my thesis on this in grad school. Japanese denim is basically American denim.

[@joaomiguel178]

Uniqlo also has japanese denim i think they got the same as evisu or something like that

[@la_screw]

the whole thing was my favorite thanks for that brands subbed

[@devindepina7660]

shout out to you brother for putting me on to these fire websites. finally, so good quality stuff worth my hard earned money.

[@DrewJoiner]

🤝

[@kayem638]

Think the only Japanese denim brand I got is from Two Cats Brand (TCB). Have fun with them raw jeans and creating your own fades.

[@FieldTestedSemenKun]

I was hoping you'd mention Momotaro jeans too since they hand-weave their denim on a massive shuttle loom

[@danielgonzalez5017]

Self Edge needs a mention

[@joelstatosky8444]

I would say that now japanese denim is the best, however when cone mills was still around. The STF 501 reigned supreme. I like to think of the 501 as the canvas. However the crotch always blew out after a few years. However I did like adding denim patches because it gave it a unique look,. I will clarify this however, japanese denim is the best however the jeans themselves don't have to be produced in japan to be good. One thai brand piger works has produced affordable heavy denim with amazing fades. I haven't ordered anything yet but the quality speaks for itself from people who have worn them on Instagram, I'm just hoping they eventually get an american distrubutor.

[@NiiloHargut]

Hell yes, finally I'm awake for your sunday upload! Almost always watch them with my monday morning coffee, love the tradition, and the content, keep it up! #pvv gang

[@twig8523]

5:23 so weird, I just had this exact conversation with a friend. 😆 Tom-Sally-Arnold is just a nickname/in-joke we have. 😆 🙃

[@wecw1996]

If possible can you review Levi's Made in Japan like 606 and 512 from the japanese website and ways to get Japanese Denim shipped to the US.

[@tonyguo8646]

Could you do a raw/selvedged denim try on and show your favorite pairs if you own any? :)

[@DrewJoiner]

I actually don't have any but sooon

[@chi_seminavento]

Not me listening to this while wearing H&M jeans

[@Big_E85]

So I understand the different looms you mentioned, you explained those well, they got their shit from old machines used by US corporations that produced higher quality denim. But what has me fucked up is I don't know how those looms tie into selvedged denim & raw denim & how a Japanese pair of jeans compares to American jeans with regards to those 2 types of jeans & how the different looms have an impact on those as well. I guess, TLDR. You mentioned the looms & different denim types but not how the looms are a part of that process & what to look for.

[@X9niggah]

it's my first video of yours and I'm already a subscriber 😌🖤

[@DrewJoiner]

🤝❤️

[@PoloJ410]

Ralph Lauren also has Japanese denim.

[@millersong3529]

there are some pics not in Japan but in South Korea

[@dennisclanton5342]

Strike gold is often overlooked.

[@LarsLenningerJansen]

well done !