Why Neutrals & Grounds are Connected in 90 Seconds

[@spankymagee]

I recommend everyone watch the full video. It explains a lot for even people like me that already knew quite a bit about this stuff. Ties it all together and makes a lot of sense. I learned a couple of things NOT to do as well in that video.

[@mfsperring]

🤣 I was thinking this looks familiar but I remembered it differently. Then I read your comment and realized I had watched the original. Maybe I did hang on to that live wire a little longer then I thought. 🤣🤣🤣

[@spelunkerd]

The concepts are laughably simple, it's the strange jargon (like "grounding conductor" vs "grounded conductor") that trips people up. Bright people, like Ben, find a way to explain it easily, avoiding confusing descriptive terms.

[@dunckeroo1987]

Circuit ground, case ground, power ground, panel ground, earth ground -- it is a hierarchy of grounding for safety and electrical noise reduction. Normally the ground is not supposed to carry current -- but will do so if leakage happens to occur. It is a back-up system to avoid electrocution and fire -- independent of the voltage drop of the neutral conductors.

[@jfbeam]

Lightning hits ungrounded things everyday without any damage. (airplanes, and sometimes even cars) When it hits your shed, that's connected to your _grounded_ house, then yes, it'll blow things up in your house.

[@theastuteangler]

Quick, simple, straight to the point. I like it.

[@rangerBlu]

Beginning at around 45s: "Connecting something to the dirt does not make a system safe in any way." I strongly disagree with this statement. The most basic reason for grounding is to make sure that any conducting materials that might be handled by people are at the same potential as those people. The assumption is that people stand on the ground hence they are typically at ground potential. Grounding of conductors (e.g. metal equipment boxes, copper pipes, solar panels, etc.) protects people by shunting stray voltages that build up on those conductors, by natural or other means (e.g. electric faults), into ground keeping them at ground potential and preventing electric shock when touched.

[@georgeswindolljr1980]

Excellent summary!!!

[@martysheets6882]

Great explanation, thanks for making it simple.

[@2011k1500]

Good job. A lot packed in 90 seconds.

[@americanmotorsam-caz524]

OK so my water service was just updated last year and the electrician bonded the meter and service to my neutral bar. Was this correct I do have a separate ground bar in my panel. While he was leaving he said I needed to have a ground bar installed in my panel. I just opened it up again after watching this video and maybe because 2 grounds were run into the neutral and my ground wire to outside is still cloth wrapped as the house is 170 yrs old. I did think this strange. I may just pull a new copper 6g wire and drive 2 new rods and put to ground bar. My breaker box conduit input is bonded at the nut and to the neutral, is this normal or should it be to ground bar. I have ordered 10 space ground bar to get those 2 wires into the frame of box. *** I did post this on old video but realize it was older so you may not see.

[@zekenzy6486]

Great Video. Thank you for sharing

[@nayemhossain4283]

Thanks for your time and sacrifice, Is it possible to make a video gas tankless combi boiler wiring , Thanks again .

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

On just the wiring specifically?

[@jimmywh22]

Kind of based of this topic so I thought I would see if anyone has a definitive answer… So I have a main panel with shared ground and neutrals on the neutral bars. Yes, it is the first means of disconnect so I know that is fine. The issue is the neutrals aren’t all under one screw. Can I add a separate ground bar to move some of the grounds over to in order to make it to code? Unfortunately the electrician installing the panel many years ago didn’t leave a ton of slack so I only plan on moving the bare minimum of grounds over to free up enough space. Logically, I don’t see any issues having some grounds on the neutral bar and some on a bonded separate ground bar provided there is never a neutral on that ground bar. But I know the NEC can have some weird rules and just wanted to see if anyone knows if it’s an all or nothing type deal with moving the grounds?

[@christfollower1768]

Question : Can I use a gfci 2 pole breaker with 12/2 with bare ground wire and that gfci breaker work as intended ? Fyi the device connected to does not require a neutral wire. Thank you

[@stevenhansen5453]

Awesome explanation.

[@Soprano0913]

I love your videos! You guys are great! I need your professional knowledge on my panel. I have a 100amp 20 circuit General Electric 1960 era. I'm out of neutrals i want to add a type 1 surge protector. Is it code to add a neutral bar and a bumper wire from old to new? Also does the addon neutral bar need to be isolated the original? Lastly no ground bar can i just simply screw one into the panel?

[@robertmeyer4744]

that was good. now this bounding is at one point only at the main ! all comes together with 1 or 2 ground rods. not just lightning also for static charge build up. like heave rain or snow can build up a charge that can shock you or arc trying to make it to earth.

[@grayeagle247]

Maybe someone can answer this question for me. I have bought some property and the main panel first disconnect is separated, the ground and the neutral, my sub panel. The sub panel is connecting neutral and ground and everything test is good. Is that OK

[@imevbore]

How do I bond three tenant apartments with individual meter boards? Please, I need a detailed explanation

[@mak4374]

Maybe "the first thing you want" is not to do the skip-video bullshit on ANYTHING that has to do with safety, just to "look" cool. It is NOT cool. It is just destructing, annoying, and makes people want to skip IMPORTANT information. I like your information, just, please, present it in a cohesive way...

[@hippo-potamus]

12/2 Stranded vs 12/2 solid?

[@electricsuitbatman]

😂 I read this title like he was bragging about taking 90 seconds to land 2 wires. 😂😂 Cheers to being too literal.

[@electricsuitbatman]

Disregarding the fact he said why too 😂

[@jakubmakalowski6428]

Definitely misread the title as connecting both within 90 sec, not an explanation in the span of 90 sec haha!

[@slidewaze]

Good subject but the jump-cuts.....

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

I get ya...

[@slidewaze]

@@BenjaminSahlstrom Oh! This was pieced together from the original video? In that case, jump-cuts forgiven. That must have been a tough edit. Nice and thanks!

[@minergate4066]

I still don't know

[@MAGAMAN]

Instead of chopping the hell out of the video to hit 90 seconds and making it unwatchable in the process, why not just put it up in a normal pacing? We aren't on Tik tok with all the tik tok losers and have an attention span that goes over a minute or two.

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

Good point! That's why the full video is linked at the end.

[@stusue9733]

@@BenjaminSahlstrom Perhaps he didn't make it that far? lol

[@JohnSmith-kw8lt]

Since AC (Alternating Current) is reversing polarity 60 times a second that means that when neutral is connected to the ground you are shooting Hot or Positive directly into the ground 50% of the time or paying for electricity that you are not using.

[@jkbrown5496]

But only if there is a failure or open in the combined earth-neutral wire in the power company's drop to the house. Otherwise, the potential difference between the ground rod at the house and the one at the pole is negligible. But if that Earth-neutral is broken, then there is a resistance path through the earth that will cap the voltage spike, especially for induced currents from nearby lightning. Strictly speaking you do not bond the ground and centertap/neutral at the first panel, but rather separate the combined earth/neutral the power company gives you at the service drop from the transformer. By separating this CEN, you are creating the neutral and safety ground separation that keeps things people can touch safe.

[@davidsimon1366]

Aww​@@jkbrown5496