Why plastic masonry paint causes so many problems.

[@suckers0]

Interesting, thanks for posting. It's analogous to the problems I've encountered with wooden windows painted with modern oil paints (versus older Linseed oil paints). Loose putty or whatever allows water to run down the glass, soak into the exposed timber and start rottong away the frame. Outwardly, the paint film stays intact for quite a long while until eventually the wood all but disappears or you press a finger onto the surface and the paint film breaks. Can you say how the building's paint should best be removed - would sand blasting be too abrasive?

[@WarmDryHome]

+suckers0 Brilliant observation! I use the Otosson linseed paints - superb stuff. No more rotted wood... !

[@timboengineering]

Great video as always- we have plastic paint on our old house from a previous occupier, the lime mortar has removed some of it, but what do you recommend to remove the rest of it so we can get back to bare brick and clay paint it properly?

[@WarmDryHome]

As above - either carefully chip off, or use DOFF and / or TORQ process..

[@gleff3345]

Hello Peter, Here in the Netherlands it is quite popular to have brick walls sandblasted to give them a cleaner look. I feel that this might give problems on the long run. Have you already occured such consequences f sandblasting in your job? Thanks Gijs

[@WarmDryHome]

Yes - you can't blast with sand as you take off the glaze to the bricks - need to use hot water techniques like DOFF and TORQ developed here in the UK...

[@keiththorne5495]

So once the bricks are free of paint can I use brick sealer or just leave the bricks as they are?

[@WarmDryHome]

Never use brick sealer - worst thing you can do - leave as they are...

[@davidrees4063]

Peter, could you explain what you mean by plastic paint? are we talking external gloss? sandtex or something else? I ask because we have a covenant on our property which requires it to be painted, I do not know they type of paint used by the previous owner, but we are seeing similar issues to this (although our property is not quite so grand)

[@WarmDryHome]

+david rees yes - all modern paints. Gloss, sandtex - all the same. Limewash is best - very breathable. Trouble is that once you have these, you need to get them off before repainting otherwise whatever you put on is wasted. Moisture doesnt just come in from the outside - it's diffusing outwards from inside - which is why paint blows - its moisture trying to get out...

[@davidrees4063]

+Peter Ward Thanks. Guess that is my summer planned out. Once I've got the foot of sand out the bottom of cavity and the rather moist blown fibre insulation that's been installed at some point. amazing how many small mistakes the previous owners made that add up to 1 big problem for me to deal with. many thanks again.

[@paulied1473]

I don't get this one Pete, why is plastic paint a problem here? i can understand not letting lime mortar air, but if damp can't penetrate in through the paint, why is it a problem? Thanks for the great work big fan

[@WarmDryHome]

+paul allan See comment above - but moisture doesnt just go in. All walls have moisture diffusing through them all the time. Its fine so long as when conditions change, moisture can escape. As a gas, its fine - cool the wall, and it condenses - so you get fog in your walls as it were.. If painted, it cant get out, if lime and breathable, it just evaporates as conditions allow and moisture never builds up. Breathability is now an important part of building regulations - we are all still learning - but one thing that is now accepted is that rising damp is a thing of the past - BS7913: guide to the conservation of historic buildings, is a great source of info.

[@frank1847]

Excellent .

[@voodoomelons]

Hi Peter! I've had freshly plastered NHL internal walls in my 1820s house in Ireland completed for several months now. Now they're ready to receive some decorating. What kind of paint do you recommend for internal lime plaster walls? Surely limewash isn't the only option? Can a watered-down modern water-based emulsion be used and still retain breathability? My second question is that many lime plaster walls have also been patch repaired and the finish is too poor to be painted directly, so lining paper is the only real option. There's so much conflicting information online, is lining paper breathable? And is it suitable for use on ground floors? If so, should a special breathable adhesive be used, if it exists at all? Love the videos, thanks!

[@WarmDryHome]

+Voodoo Melon Use the Earthborn clay paints - brilliant, and not chalky like limewash. Lining paper traps moisture. Go back to the walls, - get a bucket of finishing coat - can buy from Ty Mawr lime - about £15 for enough to do the house - and just skim over the bad areas - that way you have a lovely smooth lime finish for painting with earthborn - which in itself will fill cracks and imperfections..

[@voodoomelons]

+Peter Ward Thanks so much for the tips!

[@GunnerFather]

Hi PETER I have a huge problem with plastic paint. Please can I send you some photos? Do you have a work email so I can send some to you for guidance?

[@WarmDryHome]

email is [e-mail]