Why You Should Be Using Danbacking

[@mikedesverknopf4681]

Wonder did the editing made it look like you drilled into your hand when you put up the plywood the first sped up time

[@JulioCSolar]

Jeez! I just found out about this little marvel. I like to securely install TVs on the wall and that would have been wonderfull for me at the time I had to hang three 75 inches sets at home. Thanks for sharing.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

Yea it’s a fantastic product! Glad we could help.

[@johnoelliott4638]

Hey guys I’m a suspended ceiling and steel stud installer plus more in New Zealand , just wanted to say it’s good to see other ways of doing our kind of work , u You have some good ideas which I might try out

[@rileyjenk]

This stuff is awesome. Used it in the basement.

[@markmulvanny3210]

Just a correction on terms. What you are calling the "flange" is actually termed a "lip" or "return". The "flange" is the part (e.g. 1 1/4" or 1 5/8") you screw into. It took me a minute to figure out what you were talking about at first. But good video, thanks. One other advantage to Danbacking is that you avoid screwing into the end grain of dimensional lumber or plywood thus making what would seem to be a stronger assembly.

[@GoatZilla]

Time and money wise I don't think the traditional method is that bad. The advantage here is really you're installing the system with fasteners and screws which are front facing, including those staples. With the traditional technique you're putting screws in from the side, which is probably going to be a real PITA if you have two or more in a line and you need to get back in there and fix something.

[@hmtrimworks7148]

You should provide a link on where to buy in the description

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

We use our regional supplier FBM

[@jonmiguel]

Nifty product. Everyone keeps beating me to the next pet rock.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

That’s a good one!

[@johnb1731]

We use 6” metal flat stock for our backing.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

We use that too. But sometimes the architect specs certain materials.

[@procousticsochoa9318]

I use a 10” radial arm compound mitre saw and 2x6. I measure from the hard side of one stud, to the backside, exactly, cut the slot ,and give it another 3/4” to screw to. And always go against the layout. If your framing is nice and straight, you can pump out a bunch real quickly once you get the hang of it. What’s cool about the danbacking is, you can use a lower skilled hand on it. And they should be quite efficient. That’s they only way I can see making it worth using. The offset in labor cost might help that way.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

Oh absolutely! I totally get your point. We have walls sometimes where they need 4 rows at different heights so it makes it a breeze.

[@georgeomalley6066]

Great idea

[@chrisrjrose]

Great video! I understand this is great to do while a building is under construction. I have a situation where we want to mount a network enclosure to a wall with metal studs. We are mounting plywood to the drywall. Is this sufficient? For the weight we feel there should probably be a backing such as what you are showing here.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

Yea it should be. Just make sure to put in enough screws to the studs. Also use 5/8”

[@LuisUgarteUSA]

What about the regular and townhouses new constructions? It also has wood for the kitchen cabinets?

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

Yea if the metal plates were cut for that. These are made to ‘clip’ into the studs with a dado cut. If they were to manufacture then at 14-1/2” with a1-1/2” width between them and then plate over they would be perfect for that. I’m just not sure anyone has don’t that.

[@jonnyrotten9755]

Safety Squints work great 👀

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

Damn, we always try and make sure to cut those scenes out where I’m not wear them. Got me!

[@stephenboone8230]

Where do I buy the Danbacking pieces from? And do they ready come with the small ridge in it or does it still have to be cut in

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

We use FBM as a supply house. That cut for the stud flange come pre cut

[@a-carpenter9229]

I can understand your old way of cutting and notching the plywood with a circular saw would be slow and tedious but I'm curious why you wouldn't set up a router table on the jobsite with a 1/4" router bit and have the fence set for that little flange. Once you'd have a good system down then you'd get quite a few pieces of plywood cut and notched. At $6-$8 a piece for the danbackers it would soon add up especially when you're putting in 3 rows of blocking on both sides of a 40' wall for cabinets

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

A -Carpenter I do mention that you can set up a whole system to do this. I was showing (a) process of cutting/install and regardless of setting up a system, danbacking would be faster. These are for assembly type systems where you have to put up thousands of feet and build it into your cost. The hotels/assisted livings, medical spaces and appliance stores are the examples I used to showcase this produce, again this is for assemblies. In your instance of one room, we would still not set up a table because we can build the cost into the job, grab it from our shop and install. It saves time, labor and the variable of having a guy running a saw for days and days which I don’t want because it’s safer to buy danbacking than the workers comp. Hope that helps👍

[@sknerl]

It looks like there’s a potential market for a retired fella to make danbackers all day. Those are simple reproducible and connected with cheap plates.@6-8 a piece, man, it’s a good living. I like the idea of them and how you installed.

[@siramkgames]

I am mounting my TV in my high rise apartment and I thought it was all metal studs (I was going to anchor it), but after drilling my first hole, I noticed that there is wood behind the metal. Is it safe to assume that this is what is going on behind the drywall? And if so, should I drill through the wood and add anchors like I would if it was just metal studs? Thanks!

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

We’ll if this was the case you wouldn’t need anchors. You would screw it to these with the lag screws these would have packaged. But my guess is your just happen to hit the studs.

[@GoatZilla]

Did you just discover a nail plate?

[@lealoctavio18]

Informative video thanks, can you do a video on layout like snapping lines, pulling off axis lines..& how to go about it thanks

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

lealoctavio18 we absolutely can. We’ve just been waiting on the right job to do it on, give us a little bit and we’ll get to it! Thank you for the idea, it helps us when we’re planning videos👍

[@karlnorgaard9447]

Yes, but the material build-up...and the space left between back of drywall/ face of backing.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

It’s a non factor

[@zerimaryar]

Is there a retrofit for a repair? I have our daughter's school that may need something like this in the middle and everything is finished. I may need to cut a hole to make it 'new'

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

We also use flat stock. Which is 6” band of steel that we just place over the studs. Still have to cut open the wall.

[@dreid4760]

What ga for the flat stock and what screws to secure, thanks?

[@dreid4760]

I forgot to ask, what fasteners do I use then for the kitchen cabinets into the steel flat stock? Additionally, do you need to use Danback or flat stock for the bottom and/or middle screws (if required) in hanging the cabinets? What is the thickness of the wood used in Danback?

[@dreid4760]

Why cut out the drywall? What about screwing the metal stock over the drywall? Thanks

[@arthurmcdonnell3038]

Where can I order these

[@TheMiamiTiger69]

Hi. Maybe I am confused? So you don't anchor the wood to the steel frame and the weight of the cabinets is held on these staples the steel plates are attached to the board?!

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

You drywall over and then screw your cabinet into the wood

[@Anthonycapone8146]

mitchellacoustical3119 Don't you get tired of answering these stupid questions over and over?

[@jeffsims6532]

@@Anthonycapone8146 😎👍

[@ElCidPhysics90]

I’m working on building some bunk beds for a condo that uses metal studs. Is there anything special I need to do to screw the corner posts into the studs? I’m assuming I can even do that?

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

There shouldn’t be anything special. I would pre drill, but once you hit backing you should be good

[@ElCidPhysics90]

@@mitchellacoustical3119 thank you for the reply.

[@MysticKJ]

what type of screw was used to go through the metal into the wood? And it's ok for the screw to punch through the back of the wood?

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

A self drilling screw is what we use. And you can use a 1-1/4” self drilling but we use the pan heads to keep flat and they don’t go thru the wood.

[@MysticKJ]

Thank you for the reply. I had some low profile lath screws laying around but I’ll grab some self-drilling ones to do it properly. Those are the screws with the drill point tip?

[@vladimirgirshfeld469]

Nice safety squints 🤣

[@ianleonhardt183]

I'm assuming you can get these for 24" o.c. framing but can you also get them in different heights?

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

Yea they come in 16” and 24” spacing. Not sure about the height. All I’ve seen are 6”.

[@ncdrywall6364]

Just stack them.

[@JB-sz3yw]

What gauge is the metal that is holding the plywood

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

I think it’s 20-25

[@DJ_CUDACORE]

Can these be used on CMU furring?

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

I don’t think so

[@flacopt8]

Can't you just make your own with a 6" flat stock, precut them to size then connect with crown staples.

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

We build hotels and assisted living like we mention in the video. That which requires thousands of pieces. If you’re set up for that, by all means go ahead and do that. We build it into the bid👍

[@AMindInOverdrive]

6" 20ga flat stock is a quick alternative to plywood. If you can get it approved. Depends on the architect

[@jacobking1267]

why not just notch backing?

[@mitchellacoustical3119]

You can. But this is an assembly. Saves time

[@sherrilldean4598]

Lost me at 1:55 of video...Where's the EAR PROTECTION AND SAFETY GOGGLES OR GLASSES ????????????????