Why you SHOULD change anchor points with a slingshot

[@garmac6174]

I’m a new sling shot shooter, but I understand exactly what you are saying. I have 102mm, 100mm and 94mm slingshots. With my anchor point I can use the fork tip on the 102mm, but at 50’. At 10m I have to aim low with all three widths. So my point is, If I change my anchor point for various fork widths, I’ll also have to keep changing my anchor points for various distances. Since I expect, as with a firearm, to hold the firearm the same each time and change my elevation sight picture for various distances, it makes more sense to ME to keep the same anchor point and adjust sight picture for various fork widths and distances. Just my personal take.

[@youngcanecatapults6590]

@garmac6174 I only change anchors for shooting a PFS short draw. It's such a drastic difference between a PFS and a regular frame. There's 30+mm of width difference

[@SurvivingThisCruelWorld]

I believe in keeping the same anchor point regardless of the frame. I've tried moving anchor points for different frames and it doesn't work for me. There are two variables: the anchor point and the reference point. Personally, I find it easier to adjust the reference point rather than the anchor point. That's the beauty of slingshots- there is lots of room for personal preferences. If it works for you, then it's all good. Happy shootin'!

[@leevespa4564]

Makes sense mate,just starting out with cattys again....at 54,covid bollocked trad long bow,so decided slingshots,so thanks from the uk for the info mate👍

[@kendalstewart5308]

You are very correct man, 100% right. If you don’t change that anchor point with the different fork gaps and try to use the same reference point on your fork to aim, the bands will pull with different tensions, an uneven tension on each band forcing your ammo to go up or down.

[@TheGreatest1974]

INSTEAD of changing your anchor point you can simply tilt the frame slightly and lower the back hand down or up very slightly. This reduces the likelihood of a fork hit etc and you get used to it real quick because your brain learns your misses and you instinctively know exactly how to adjust the frame and anchor to hit targets at different distances. A lot of accuracy is trial and error, your brain subconsciously learning what didn’t work and correcting you, until you are really accurate at any distance and you can’t believe how it’s happened. If you just tilt your whole set up for different distances, your instinct will take over. This is how those Chinese guys are so incredibly accurate. They practise and practise and their brains do the working out and learning, then instinct takes over and they become crack shots. I hope this makes sense. 👍🇬🇧

[@numbskullskills]

iv hade a wrist rocket all my life but im getting my first sling saturday, cant wait its gonna be fun

[@threestarsandasling]

Good video man. When I started with a wide gapped Daisy fork and was hitting stuff consistently, I anchored it to the corner of my mouth. Then I tried a fork with a smaller gap but still anchored it on the same spot and shots were just flying everywhere! lol. After many holes on my drywall, I raised the anchor to my cheek and started hitting the target again. After years of acquiring more forks, I now have a spreadsheet of what fork, what bands taper /ammo and what my anchor is on my phone. hahaha.

[@jimmynich4791]

I just stick to 90mm frames now, then anchor point is always the same.

[@andylongmore6697]

I've shot slingshots since a kid, (54) now. I've shot natural frames with different fork gaps, HDPE, metal frames, frameless an only recently in last few months PFS. Anchor points change with type of slingshot, a black widow due to tubes position is totally different to a ottf natural when shooting gangster. Flat bands, tubes, old square rubber an chains also mean different anchor points. In time I've been shooting, I personally go for a short draw 28/30 . I found that at that draw the anchor doesn't matter so much, it becomes instinctively eventually. The same theory application goes hammer grip, the ttf style shooter's are more consistent with anchor points, again depends on size the frame gap an the band rig. PFS be it hammer or gangster....you don't aim. Only my experience tho, happy shooting

[@TheSmoShow1]

I do the same thing, but I try to change up the whole style too. Thumb down on 1/2 butterfly, ear length draw for PFS, etc. Great video dude

[@Bob-t8m]

Hi my name is Robert Bussiere and I live in Ontonagon Michigan, I started making slingshots about 2 years ago, I also do a lot of research and one of my areas of research is the speed of the slingshot, along with psi upon impact By the looks of your slingshot it weighs about 80 to 100 grams if your slingshot slips out of your hand and hits you in the face the impact is going to be around 800 pounds per square inch at 200 feet per second. So get some 550 Paracord and drill a hole in the handle of your slingshot put the Paracord through it take both ends and tie it in a knot use it as a lanyard around your wrist it may save your life are a trip to the emergency room thank you very much Bob

[@youngcanecatapults6590]

@Bob-t8m I appreciate the concern, but I'll take my chances. I've been shooting slingshots all my life, and shooting competitively for 5 years. I have never had a slingshot come out of my hand and hit me in the face.

[@Bob-t8m]

@youngcanecatapults6590 Okay just be careful I like your slingshot take care and have fun shooting.

[@gafengla]

Great advice - thanks for that!

[@saberraider]

Always do, seemed logical to me, will keep doing it for sure!

[@usernamemykel]

Good video.

[@JasonSmith-bv3yd]

These are cool videos...new to slinging myself and enjoy these videos! New sub here!

[@james6028]

I struggle with raising my anchor point as I anchor on top of my cheekbone with a 100mm frame. smaller frames I almost have to anchor on top of my dang eyeball to keep a forktip reference

[@fomflip]

Luv IT! Great INFO! 😁👍👍

[@r123brown]

Thanks for sharing Y C

[@brutallindigo]

I agree 100 percent.

[@nathanevans6331]

Personally I would never change my Anchor point....I would change reference point.....much much easier.

[@TheGreatest1974]

But how do you adjust the whole thing for longer distances? Do you tilt the frame and lower or higher the anchor point at the same time? That avoids fork hits and allows you to aim with the fork as normal. Practise that and your brain will work the accuracy out for you. 👍🇬🇧

[@flighthistory7116]

Отличное пояснение! Я думал с моими якорными точками что-то не так, потому что они менялись до 1 сантиметра в зависимости от вида рогатки и приходилось целиться с некими поправками относительно угла рамы, я думал что у меня что-то не правильно в технике стрельбы, но ты развеял мои сомнения. Лайк и подписка!

[@youngcanecatapults6590]

English, please?

[@flighthistory7116]

@@youngcanecatapults6590 google translate

[@youngcanecatapults6590]

@@flighthistory7116 Can't use Google translate. I've tried

[@flighthistory7116]

@@youngcanecatapults6590 Great explanation! I thought something was wrong with my anchor points, because they changed up to 1 centimeter depending on the type of slingshot and I had to aim with some corrections regarding the angle of the frame, I thought that something was wrong with my shooting technique, but you dispelled my doubts. Like and subscribe!

[@684ih4]

Doesn't range change anchor point?

[@youngcanecatapults6590]

@@684ih4 No. I only change anchor for narrower frames. For shooting distance, anchor in the same place and raise the frame higher

[@flyflung]

Which corner are you using?

[@youngcanecatapults6590]

I use the very tip of the top corner as a reference

[@ChuckinSteel]

Brother this is the second time iv had to resub to ya. Stupid youtube

[@nathanevans6331]

Worse advice I've ever seen..