Winterizing a Volvo Penta 5.7GSi SX-M boat engine

[@trythistv]

Some handy tools for winterizing: 6 in 1 Screwdriver: amzn.to/3Wix9IE Adjustable wrench: amzn.to/3DsOru9 Hose pullers: amzn.to/3UuJSq7 Mercury plastic drain plugs: amzn.to/3sR5YqE Volvo penta plastic drain plugs: amzn.to/3fiRf51 These links are likely affiliate links, which allow me to earn a small commission from your purchase at no additional cost to you!

[@KaliTakumi]

Incredible guide, I shall proceed to avoid giving myself an expensive repair bill

[@trythistv]

Best to avoid those, especially with a boat, considering what B.O.A.T. stands for lol

[@gilrheaume6283]

I'm new to boating and I think your video is fantastic but please explain to me, did the outdrive get winterized also with all the antifreeze you put in the engine hoses? Retired in Massachusetts.

[@trythistv]

Typically the outdrive itself drains out fairly well, unless you have some leak that is allowing water to mix with the gear oil (I've seen it once, froze and cracked the lower unit because the seals were bad and it filled with water sitting in the lake), now the water pump if it is a inboard belt or crank driven pump can retain a small amount of water, at around 9:00 I pour antifreeze into the water pump line, and it backs up into the hose, that will make its way past the impeller slowly, you can pop the hoses off the pump to drain the water first, which can be a better option especially in a colder climate like yours, where I'm at we rarely see temps cold enough to cause issues. An alternative best of all worlds procedure is to drain the block and manifolds (and water heater, heater core or other accessories that may be found on houseboats, ski boats or cabin cruisers, runabouts likely won't have any of those to worry about), then run the boat on muffs with antifreeze being fed in. draining the block and manifolds is essential, just running it on muffs will not dilute the water in the block enough, but draining everything as shown in this video is a sure fire way to get all the water out, then refilling through the muffs until antifreeze comes out the exhaust will guarantee there is no water left anywhere in the system.

[@mortaltombat4740]

What about the water inlet line from the outdrive to the raw water pump? Isn't there a check valve in there that keeps the water from draining out when the boat gets trailered? I think this line needs to be drained at the pump, otherwise it will stay filled with water and freeze.

[@trythistv]

No check valve, the rubber impeller is the only restriction. Pouring antifreeze down the hose that leads to the water pump on this specific model will slowly bypass the impeller and flush the water out of the hose all the way to the pickup in the lower unit. Some mercruiser bravo pumps have drains built into the belt driven seawater pump housing, others are best freeze protected by draining the block and manifolds then pumping antifreeze in with earmuffs. Each drive and specific manufacturer setup changes what is best. We see some very bizarre things that boat manufacturers have done.

[@keizersoze907]

how many gallons do I need? also what about winterizing the foot?

[@trythistv]

With any V8 I always budget 6 gallons following my procedure of draining and then refilling, usually they take around 5, but 6 is safe so you don't need to make a second trip. As far as the lower unit, you'll want to pour antifreeze in the water pump hose until it comes out the intake on the lower or feed it in with muffs after the block and exhausts are drained. then check the lower unit oil to make sure it isn't water contaminated.

[@DeathsEye40]

2 Batteries need 4 and a turbo

[@trythistv]

You're right, that is just what it needs!

[@DeathsEye40]

@@trythistv that is for when your are getting it ready for next season