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Пікірлер
@Dez2891 5 сағат бұрын
If it doesn't click when I push the down button but jumping the solenoid moves the drive up and down. Doesn't that bypass the button meaning its the button on the throttle that is faulty?
@Godlovesbrian 6 сағат бұрын
That helped thank you
@beardsntools 20 сағат бұрын
What about using a hammer drill?
@walter4796 Күн бұрын
Thank you it solved my Problem, when Engine hot it sayed OIL and go to Limp Mode
@tarikbakk7456 2 күн бұрын
Change line termination to unix (possibly not necessary). is very necessary on some devices otherwise it will only boot into recovery mode
@AchikSarih 2 күн бұрын
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
@prestonbonesteel166 3 күн бұрын
Thanks for publishing this video it has definitely helped me work on my jetboat which is pretty much the same as yours (96 bayliner jazz powered by the same motor as yours) My motor is freshly rebuilt and bored .030 over but hasn’t even been ran yet because I couldn’t figure out what was preventing it from running since it got rebuilt. I was just getting ready to start taking the motor back apart but thanks to watching your video I figured out that my rev limiter is bad. I couldn’t even get it to sputter until I unplugged my rev limiter. Believe it or not it was turnkey prior to the rebuild even with chewed up cylinders and pistons and next to nothing for compression which I discovered after I already bought it and tried to actually run it on the water. Rookie mistake obviously on my part not to do a compression test and water test prior to buying it but I was fooled by how easily it fired up and seemed to run good. So now it spits and sputters with lots of smoke but still doesn’t quite fire up but now that you included setting the timing in your video I’m going to check and adjust mine and hopefully that will bring life to this motor. I actually have my motor on a stand right now and was thinking about rebuilding my carbs while I’m at it. I went looking for your video of rebuilding the carbs but couldn’t find it. Am I just missing it or is that not on here yet?
@trythistv 2 күн бұрын
I haven't gotten that video done yet, I should try to finish it up soon, they are very simple carbs.
@prestonbonesteel166 2 күн бұрын
That would be great! I’ll keep an eye out.
@corrielewis5337 5 күн бұрын
old video but does anyone know pop off pressure and high and low screw setting for 95’ wetjet duo 300zx . master craft only made the skis a few years and a manual is no where to be found .
@trythistv 4 күн бұрын
replied to your other comment, I would try the specs for a yamaha 701 ski, I worked on one mastercraft wetjet and it was a yamaha engine in it so it might give you a starting point at least.
@corrielewis5337 4 күн бұрын
@@trythistv yes my ski also has the yamaha 701 , thanks for the advice much appreciated
@corrielewis5337 5 күн бұрын
Do you by chance know the high and low setting and pop off pressure for 95’ wetjet duo 300 zx . it is a mikuni 44mm . I can’t find much on them , have been waiting awhile on forums for answers regarding them . supposedly mastercraft only made the wetjet for a few years . this is my first ski .
@trythistv 4 күн бұрын
I've only ever seen one mastercraft ski, and if I recall correctly they used a yamaha 701cc engine in it just like the waverunner 3 gp I revived on the channel. I would try the specs for a yamaha 701 and see how it performs. 30-40psi popoff, 5/8 turn out on low screw, 1 1/8 on the high. Do be aware that may not be correct, but that is where I would start at with the lack of information out there on them.
@corrielewis5337 4 күн бұрын
@@trythistv thank you
@francisdescoteaux3938 6 күн бұрын
Great video, thanks for it. What's the name of the tool with the different size needles and where did you get yours? Thanks again.
@trythistv 4 күн бұрын
I've heard them called torch tip cleaners, as well as carburetor jet cleaners. I got mine from amazon: amzn.to/3S4lT1Z (you can give some to your friends too because there is several)
@Jonh707 6 күн бұрын
I have a Kawasaki round body MK - BN 44MM carburetor and I can’t find the pop off pressure specs anywhere to save my life. Wondering if anybody has come across them and would like to share with me lol. 😅
@trythistv 4 күн бұрын
What kind of machine is it on?
@michaelbarnes1782 6 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for this video! Saved me an expensive marina visit! $30 and a little time and I'm back in business!
@trythistv 4 күн бұрын
Awesome! glad it worked for you!
@kawadude 6 күн бұрын
Kawasaki Jet Skis started with Mikuni and after a few years went totally to Keihin (remember the Mikuni three screw?). Sea Doo used Keihin. I loved the Keihin because it mounted from the top, Mikuni mounted from the bottom. Keihin no longer makes watercraft carbs, ended in late 90's?
@trythistv 4 күн бұрын
I do really hate trying to reach the nuts that hold the mikuni carbs on sometimes haha. I see so few Keihin carbs where I'm at that I forget they're around, although I do have one on my Kawasaki SC project, though I may be swapping it out for a mikuni in search of getting more power out of that little 650cc engine...
@kawadude 3 күн бұрын
Problem with the Kawa 650 engine, it was detuned from the factory. How? They put a 28mm carb on it. Replaced carb on numerous 650's with 38 Keihin off 720 Seadoo engine, they bolt right on, no jets to change, must bore intake and instant hp. My Jetmate had a single 38mm and R&D exhaust and impeller change, so much more power. Just like the pre 93 Yamahas, you couldn't hurt these engines. Kawasaki maid it simple and so much easier to work on. Look at Yamaha and how many pieces make up their intake and exhaust systems, what a pita. to work on. Love my 96 Blaster 2, 87 X2, 2005 800 SXR
@trythistv 3 күн бұрын
More power is the last thing my SC needs, but its the first thing its getting after I fix the hull. Then I guess I'll have to recover the seat and make it look half decent. I appreciate the info, I did notice the stock carb seemed tiny compared to the 717 seadoo stock carb, which is exactly what I was thinking of putting on it. I wasn't aware they had used a Keihin carb on those, I've only seen Mikunis.
@MadsWorld34 8 күн бұрын
it don't matter if your brother puts the plug in the live well drain. like mine did. i ended up going swimming in the middle of winter.
@trythistv 8 күн бұрын
Been there done that! Went swimming in January one time, sure was glad I was wearing a vest, the shock of that water made it real hard to swim
@randyroth383 9 күн бұрын
To all people having bottom carb leak a just the float a little lower less gas . Make sure the Needle tip is not broken off ✌️
@AchikSarih 9 күн бұрын
Merci beaucoup pour ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤Travail
@chartellm2k 10 күн бұрын
Just changed the oil on my 2004 and I put in 4 qts. It’s way above the full line in the dipstick. Should I run it in the water and check it again before trying to suck out any oil? Worried it just hasn’t cycled through entirely yet.
@trythistv 10 күн бұрын
I would run it at least for a bit so the oil can fill the filter and circulate. The Honda manual says to run for 5 minutes in the water and then let it sit for a minute, check the dipstick and fill until it is at the full mark when the dipstick is dipped until it stops but not threaded in.
@patrickduncanjr.6847 11 күн бұрын
Hey bro thanks for the questions you have answered for me. I’m doing an oil change. What is the oil capacity? Also gas has been sitting for 4 years ago should I siphon and put new gas?
@trythistv 10 күн бұрын
I would change the gas out for fresh, it'll make it far easier to get it going, I'm not sure of the oil capacity since it's a 2 stroke it continually uses oil so just fill the tank until it's full
@ErnestoMartinez-f7x 11 күн бұрын
Very useful thanks a lot! Any advice on how to turn off the check engine warning light after changing the sensor? I keep gettin the 3 - 7 code
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
Is it possible the cam went back on in the wrong position or something? that code indicates the sensor is outside the expected range, so it should have gone away when you put the new sensor on.
@solsol1624 11 күн бұрын
Great stuff been meaning to do this a long time. Seen videos before ant they never mentioned the drain plug, is it on a 280ce?
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
It should be on nearly every Mercedes power steering box up until sometime in the mid 90s if I recall correctly.
@solsol1624 11 күн бұрын
@trythistv thank you! Mine is 83, I'll be under it this weekend so will check.
@trythistv 10 күн бұрын
I'm sure you'll have the drain plug.
@ElLeonCrusher200 11 күн бұрын
My friend you are a literally legend for this vid. I am on vacation down at the lake and have been getting real fed up this my 97 GTI and you have saved the day. Fixed in five minutes. God Bless
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
Glad it helped you out!
@atsstockburn 12 күн бұрын
It would be funny as hell to see how hot that head was on the 85p for 50psi lol.
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
That's why its been especially hot this year.
@mohammedtuma100 12 күн бұрын
How do you remove the Cluster from the Jet ski
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
If you sit on the ski, grab the cluster and pull it straight toward you. A little soapy water sprayed around the outside of the cluster helps.
@cal48koho 12 күн бұрын
Thank you! such good videos. I have 3 W123 diesels. I made the Balwin 2 micon filter mod. I ended up with a leak around the flat filter rubber gasket and out of the filter bolt. While awaiting the 2.5 mm o ring I decided to replace the orings with a thinner oring from my harbor freight O ring box. That fixed the bolt leak but not the gasket leak.. what to do besides tightening the filter bolt?
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
It must be bottoming out on something before the gasket contacts the filter head. Is the timesert screwed all the way on the filter bolt?
@JaiHind-bb8pj 13 күн бұрын
Sorry to go off topic, but I remember watching your video a few years ago about you installing the golden rod mesh screen pre filer for your 300 D. I searched all over KZbin but couldn't find it. Please could you send me the link ? Thanks.
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
I'm not sure if I ever did a video about the goldenrod filter. I think I mention it in a video, but never went into detail about it. I should do that!
@s0nnyburnett 14 күн бұрын
Great video, wasn't aware of this problem yet. Have to do this on my new to me machine.
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
It has made a huge difference on every machine I've done it to!
@_xtel 14 күн бұрын
I found someone to repair my faded screen, but didn’t know how to remove. Thanks for the video!
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
Glad I could help!
@DeViLEyE890 14 күн бұрын
Do you happen to know the size for the screws for the sun visor clips? Thanks
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
No, but if I can remember to, I can pull one out and measure it.
@PapaMav 14 күн бұрын
I hate the fuel bowl on my 8HP 2 stroke. Can I just replace it with an inline filter like you see on a tractor?
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
I can't see why not, unless the factory setup has a water sensor or something fancy you don't want to lose.
@PapaMav 11 күн бұрын
@@trythistv thank you for getting back to me. My 8 is from 1995 and does not have anything fancy like that. However, I now see why I don't find info on KZbin about people doing this: the amount of space there is to put it (at least on an 8) is limited and the 3" long tractor filter I bought won't orient properly with the fuel hoses. I think I can solve it by using a longer length of hose that runs from the carb toward the back of the motor, then run behind it, then back up toward where the fuel connector is; there is more room along the port side of the motor to position the filter. I would have to use some zip ties to keep the line from getting chewed up by the flywheel. Before I resort to that, I have an order of 90 degree fuel filters, which are mesh like the OEM (I understand this allows more flow) on the way and I am going to see if they will work in the space left by removing the old filter. I can always use the tractor filter on my tractor, lol. I just never liked Mariner's OEM set up: difficult to postion the filter cup in the bowl and not then cross thread the plastic threads when screwing it "up", which has some evidence of already happening a little bit. I will circle back when I get the chance to try the other filters out.
@trythistv 10 күн бұрын
Sounds like you've got a good plan!
@PapaMav 9 күн бұрын
@@trythistv thank you. Finger crossed, LOL.
@PapaMav 7 күн бұрын
Update: right angle motorcylce/snowmobile fuel filters arrived. Fit is excellent and based on the position of the zip ties where the fuel lines fit on the filter, it is not going to move and no danger of hitting flywheel (even if it did have some movement/wiggle to it, I would be able to zip tie the filter to keep it from moving). For the hose fittings that are on the OB, I used spring style clips bc of the tight spaces. Pumped the bulb up and watched it fill; no leaks. Can feel the difference in the bulb between prior when the gasket on the OEM fuel cup was shot and letting air in. Field test is tomorrow. What I found: spray the fittings with Silicone, not WD40 to help the hose slide on; 4.5 inches of hose on carb side and 3 inches on inlet side; fit the hoses to the filter side off the motor bc the hose I got from NAPA was very tight even at 1/4", then fit the hoses on the fittings on the OB as this was easier getting solid leverage and twist and turn the hoses on the filter and much easier fitting the hoses on the OB fittings. My concern over flow is gone; my son had me look up CCs for OB and it is 212; should be plenty of gas flow for that.
@joeromang703 15 күн бұрын
Just saved me $400 and a lot of frustration finding the right o-rings. Great video, thanks so much!! Now, if you could recommend a cost effective high pressure fuel pump equivalent to the $600 mercury OEM pump, that has the correct amperage draw, you'd really be my hero 😂
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
What part number is the fuel pump you need? I might have a place that would have one cheaper
@jassim5913 16 күн бұрын
How to I know which jets I need and springs for my carbs my Yamaha superjet is not stock I have a b pipe , vforce 3, impeller, special cabler, msd cdi, ada head and tdr waterbox
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
With that kind of list of mods, you're quite likely going to have to get comfortable reading spark plugs. There isn't really an algorithm or anything to select the correct jets that I'm aware of.
@christianclark9521 17 күн бұрын
If the o ring is replaced while still on the boat without disconnecting the lines would I still have to do the priming procedure?
@trythistv 16 күн бұрын
I would be hesitant to skip the priming, worst case you use a little extra oil for a while and foul plugs, best case it bleeds out any air that got into the system while it was open to change the o ring
@christianclark9521 17 күн бұрын
Is this the only seal in the whole pump? The only place it could possibly be leaking?
@trythistv 16 күн бұрын
This is the only seal I am aware of that will cause a leak, but there are other small o rings on each piston that could cause it to not pump oil. I haven't seen those cause an issue yet though
@Steven-xj2rf 17 күн бұрын
Great video. Mine seems to only have issues in the water. I got a 159 and had low voltage less then 12. I put in a new battery and it is 14+ when riding, but after a while it through a 163.
@trythistv 16 күн бұрын
Is your battery charging while the engine is running? Any cables corroded or loose terminals on the battery? Being in the water could put extra load on the ride motor, and any bad connection could make it throw codes
@Steven-xj2rf 16 күн бұрын
@@trythistv yeah, it is charging. I checked the codes with my map tuner and it showed it had a code 153 stored. It didn't show any of the codes that popped up on the dash. I put the details of my problem on Greenhulk yesterday as I have gotten random codes 151, 159, 163 on my 2021 FX SVHO
@Steven-xj2rf 15 күн бұрын
I am thinking it has something to do with control unit in Ride. The motor is fine, but something is causing an intermittent failure. The wire harness and connectors look like new. The MpatunerX I have ahs a code reader and the only code stored 151. The stuff that displayed on the dash didn't log into the ECU.
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
It could very well be something going wrong with the control unit, I'm not sure exactly how smart that is, but it could be almost a second ecu and communication problems would cause erratic behavior and error codes. The low voltage is my confusion. In order for the voltage to drop there has to be a large load on the battery, it could be the position sensing portion of the ride motor is failing and the ride control ecu thing is trying to move the motor to get the bucket into the proper position and it's already against the stop so the motor is just locked rotor essentially perhaps.
@Steven-xj2rf 10 күн бұрын
@@trythistv the voltage drop is after it dies and struggles to start. The different control unit seemed to fix it, but the control unit is from the wrong model and throws a TDE ERR on the dash. No codes, but reduced power.
@tommylefew361 18 күн бұрын
What carburetor are you working on a bn 38?
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
Yes indeed. Old Seadoo 587cc machine.
@Justin-hz8bh 19 күн бұрын
What do you think about measuring how much oil in total is sucked out then putting half of that in fresh oil in the top hole and the other half in the reservoir?
@trythistv 19 күн бұрын
I know a lot of people like that method, and I can see some advantages to it as well. For myself with the amount of machines I work on and the variety, it adds some extra time, and does not account for an engine that has been overfilled or underfilled by the last guy who worked on it.
@Justin-hz8bh 14 күн бұрын
@@trythistv Thanks for the reply. We changed the oil today on the Tr-1 engine and did it the way I described above. Before the oil change, NO OIL was showing on the dipstick, which was alarming because the week before, there was oil there. Anyway, we sucked out the oil from the reservoir and the crankcase via the tube. Pulled exactly 3qts out. We did 1.5qts in the top end and 1.5qts in the reservoir. After, the oil tank dipstick showed just slightly overfilled. It seems to be VERY tricky to get an accurate oil check on this thing and we're very worried about overfilling. What's your reccomention how the oil level should be checked? We've heard the Yamaha manual method is incorrect. Thanks for your advice!!
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
I've always done it very similar to the manual, start it up long enough to circulate oil everywhere, remove dipstick, wipe off oil, reinstall dipstick and then remove it and ensure the level is between the two marks on it, think of them not as full and empty, but rather a "do not exceed" in either direction. Ideally right in the middle, but it will not cause harm as long as it is above the lower mark and below the upper mark on the dipstick.
@pumpkin971 20 күн бұрын
Great video. I learned something new which is punching a hole on the vertically mounted oil filter. Pretty cool I must say. And oh yeah, I remember it was messy when I first pulled the oil filter out during my first oil change on 2020 EXR. The next time around I always load up the oil filter with paper towel to catch the oil. For new DIY, remember the oil capacity for the EXR is 3.59 qrts or 3.4 L and other spec says 3.7L. You need to extract above 3.5 qrts. The deep stick hole will fit 1/4" OD siphon to get down to the bottom of the oil pan and maybe difficult to land the holy hole, but if you do, you will be able extract all the oil out. Using the crankcase hose will work too, but does not get all the way down to the bottom. I return the same amount of oil extracted and does not use the dipstick to meter the correct oil level. Right, wrong or indifferent, I am use to do oil changes with engine cold as long as I know how much oil is needed to be extracted. I see other videos running the jet ski for over 5 minutes to heat up the oil which is not recommended by the shop manual and recommends 2 minute run with hose connected to provide cooling. The jet pump is deprived of water lubrication and may cause premature wear?
@pumpkin971 20 күн бұрын
Oops correction. Sump drain hose and not crankcase hose. There is no such thing as crankcase hose.
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
@@pumpkin971 I agree that a ski should not be run for extended periods on the hose, the pump is unloaded and the bearings aren't often designed to support everything. I will warm skis up if I can put them in the water and ride them around in circles at idle (only a few minutes otherwise its too hot though) The extra little hole down in the oil tank cavity where the dipstick is does prove challenging to hit, but getting all that oil out is nice. I still do get some out of the sump drain hose even if I have extracted everything possible from the oil tank. Total is usually between 3.5 and 4 quarts per machine, so 3.59-3.7 sounds spot on to me. When you punch the filter, don't go too deep, and double check you don't knock the bypass valve out, if you punch dead center you can knock it out, I typically punch them off on an edge of the top to avoid such a problem.
@kleveshellhorn6436 20 күн бұрын
2023 FXSVHO was getting alarms, came across this video and yup, sure enough, this was the problem. Thank you
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
Awesome, glad you found the problem! Sorry this was the problem.
@AMZHomeImprovementLLC 20 күн бұрын
Yesterday I was out on the water and my 08 VR Deluxe wanted to start but wouldn't crank over a few times (finally did). I noticed the oil was slightly over the mark and I constantly (every year) end up changing plugs. Any idea if the oil being slightly over would cause these issues?
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
A slight bit overfull probably wouldn't cause issues that quickly, if it was high and flooded the air filter to get down to the level its at now then it could cause some weird issues. Plugs seem to be a fairly common thing, My Honda tends to foul one or two the first time I start it for the season, but then is good until the next year. My Sea-Don't fouls them at the first start and sometimes once more during the season.
@AMZHomeImprovementLLC 20 күн бұрын
I have a 2008 VR Deluxe with 135 hrs and can barely reach 50 mph. I changed the oil filter once around 40 hrs ago but even then, only got to maybe 51 mph. so if I pull the air filter completely this won't harm the engine in your opinion?
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
My opinion is that boats haven't had air filters for decades, PWCs didn't for a long time (no 2 stroke had an air filter that I'm aware of), New Sea-Doos don't have an air filter from the factory, and never have. Kawasaki hasn't put them on that I'm aware of either. Its just Yamaha and Honda that used air filters on their PWCs. The lake/ocean is not really a dusty environment for a jetski to be in, so how much is an air filter going to catch? I've personally seen and serviced rental PWCs with over 2000 hours that did not have an air filter, and they did not consume oil, have low compression or any other issues that could be attributed to the air filter being removed. I say take it out and see how she performs.
@adamjohnson9014 20 күн бұрын
I'm guessing your polishing takes off a more of a layer of aluminum than the spray cleaner.
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
Maybe, but it is a bit more consistent than acid that might eat unevenly or get pooled up in hard to reach areas. Either way, as long as you keep the algae and scum off somehow thats what matters.
@michaelgrifoni2160 21 күн бұрын
One trick to try for bearing installing is to put bearing in freezer prior to installing, should go in much easier. Also large socket should work well for pressing back in the bearing incase the housing isn’t up to the task. Thanks for sharing good video!
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
I forget that trick all the time. I use it regularly for seadoo wear rings, so much so that I just keep them in the freezer, but bearings and other press fit type things it doesn't click to do the same! Thanks for the reminder!
@basspig 21 күн бұрын
I'm actually looking to block whole countries from being able to ping my router. I'm getting a lot of hacker attacks from various countries especially the Eastern block countries. I'd like to be able to just simply block these countries at the router.
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
I haven't done that with a dd-wrt router, or any personal router, but I know those type of functionality is possible, I did something like that once with fail2ban (I think) on a server online that was getting hammered by one specific country trying to brute force a login or something. I don't recall 100% of what I did, or exactly what I used to accomplish it, but what you're looking for is possible.
@basspig 19 күн бұрын
@@trythistv I need to stop it at the router because I don't trust Windows firewall and my nginx logs grew to 9GB in just one week! Normally it averages 250GB over a whole year.
@section32able 21 күн бұрын
What happens if when you connect the terminals you get nothing? My top solenoid makes the motor run when I connect the two points. But the bottom does not. Could that be one of the fuses? So it goes up but not down.
@trythistv 20 күн бұрын
You're connecting the large terminals and getting nothing? I would check if the bottom solenoid is getting a good 12v connection from the battery or if it drops out, could be where the large nut on the solenoid that is fed 12v has some corrosion or something.
@masonpetrov2716 21 күн бұрын
When i pulled my fuel pump out there was a metal and rubber washer in the bottom of the module. Do you know what they go to? They're about 3/4" in diameter
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
I don't recall there being anything like that in there, but it has been a little bit since I've had one apart.
@yoelcohen826 22 күн бұрын
Can you tell what model solenoid to buy, there is so many on Amazon and all over in different prices , which is the right one for the same exact trim motor on the video, thank you
@trythistv 21 күн бұрын
The ones I used were a Sierra 18-5817 with angled bracket, I haven't seen the flat bracket style used on tilt/trim pumps so the angled is very likely what you want, here is a link to the exact ones I used: amzn.to/4bvcysh Keep in mind you will need 2 of those, one for up and one for down. Hope this helps!
@yoelcohen826 22 күн бұрын
Great video !!!
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@cadillacescalade1 22 күн бұрын
Since the oil tank is under pressure this unit is playing a role of valve to allow compressed oil to go thru output so it is not a pump it is a one wY controlled valve to open and close oul supply
@trythistv 22 күн бұрын
Close. There is air pressure fed into the remote oil tank to keep the primary oil tank full, with a 2psi check valve to make sure the pressure does not get too high, but the actual oil pump is an electronic solenoid pump that pumps oil regardless of there being pressure in the system anywhere. If it relied purely on the pressure in the tank, the engine would starve for oil at startup or any time the oil tank was opened to fill. You can disconnect the air line, remove the remote reservoir, and still run the engine without issue until the primary oil tank runs dry, or run the prime procedure with a scan tool or using the onboard method to cycle the pump with the engine off and no pressure anywhere in the system. However, that slight positive pressure in the system could be a major factor in the o-ring in the pump leaking as it ages.
@luisarturogarciaarmijo9117 23 күн бұрын
Excelente Maestro, ¿ De cuántos milímetros es la copa para esa tuerca del aforador ?
@trythistv 11 күн бұрын
46mm if I recall correctly
@luisarturogarciaarmijo9117 11 күн бұрын
@@trythistv Gracias Maestro por su respuesta, Saludos desde Centro América 🙂👍