Wiring an external battery coil to your engine

Battery Ignition using external coil. How to properly connect this type of coil to your engine. Sometimes substituted for a failed Magneto coil ignition system.
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[@searchlight22]

45von is correct. The secondary coil, inside the coil on battery ignition systems, is what actually makes the spark. It can only do so when the points are open. When the points are closed, both the primary coil inside the coil and the condenser (which is really a battery) receive current. When the points open, the rapid loss of this charge to the primary coil windings induces a large voltage in the secondary coil winding, That is the source of the spark that ignites fuel. The condenser sends its charge along to the primary windings as well. Happily, the condenser also prevents the arc that would otherwise happen when the points close again so they don't burn-up rapidly.

[@ZippoVarga]

You're correct on both counts. It would replace a bad magneto if a suitable stock replacement isn't available and is used on engines like the Kohler shown that don't have a magneto ignition system. Hope all is well my Friend! Cheers!

[@sgtbull9147]

The coil creates spark when the points OPEN, not close. When the circuit is closed, the coil creates a strong magnetic field. When the points open, the field collapses, with electrons going into the secondary winding and discharging across the spark plug gap.

[@deborahcline1504]

Thanks Zip ; With this video I was able wire my 16 HP Briggs and get it running . This is just one of your VERY helpful videos that I will rely on and enjoy . Hey, I am even looking at the grip 6 belts. Thanks again and keep up the good work.

[@ZippoVarga]

Don't forget to use my 20% discount code!!!! It's ZIPPO20. So far, 52 people have taken advantage of the discount. Be #53!! They're Awesome buckles and belts for sure. And of course, I'm very glad this video helped you get your problematic Briggs back up and running. Cheers from the Zippo Nation! Zip~

[@bgrizz1000]

Thank you ZIPPO!!!!!! This video was a life saver. You should make some play lists. Like wiring and so on. Thank man.

[@ZippoVarga]

+B grizz Thanks for the tip Grizz. My videos are automatically grouped by content with other like videos in playlists through a program, but I can create separate playlists that are only of my videos. The only thing standing in my way of doing that right now is it's my busy season, but I will see about helping out with some playlists when time allows. Thanks again! Zip~ Glad the video helped!

[@eddiesantos7055]

Thank you buddy, I appreciate your time and kindness!

[@ZippoVarga]

I'm glad your question was answered! Thanks for stopping by. Cheers!!

[@maddog2771]

Zippo, I have a simplicity 3414 with a B&S engine, the magneto is bad , I'm unable to find a replacement, I'm Ethier going to have to go electronic ignition or Go to the battery coil ignition like a Kohler, if I go battery coil ignition how would my ignition switch work, because right now that wire is a ground to kill the engine, and it would have to be a hot that would go dead to kill the engine then. Or Would I just be better off going electronic and then I would not have to rewire the hole tractor?

[@waymonblevins6939]

Great Video, You have the best Video to explain the right way to connect the Coil to the points and condenser. One thing in your statement you first stated Capacitor for the Condenser then changed the wording to Condenser. You are Right the first time most people doesn't know the Condenser is a Small Capacitor. It build a electrical Charge and make the spark on the points hotter. Great Video Plus AAAAA++++++.

[@ZippoVarga]

Thanks much for the props Waymon! I tend to use the words most are familiar with and yep...it's a small capacitor that the world market dubbed the "Condenser". The same holds true for motor oil. They CALL it Detergent Oil, but there is no actual Detergent in it. It has a variety of chemicals designed to hold the contaminants in suspension so they'll pass through a filtering media like oil filter or cartridge. When talking small engines without an oil filter, you don't want to use Detergent oils because the contaminants are not being captured by a filter and are instead, being carried throughout the crank case where they can do harm to bearings, bushings, journals etc. Cheers! Zip~

[@waymonblevins6939]

@@ZippoVarga Very Good Article.

[@BeaterCollector]

You're the best of the best of the Whole Wide West. Thank you. You've explained it well.

[@AP-qn6br]

Thanks that's a really informative lesson I can start working on my sl100 ignition system tomorrow

[@ZippoVarga]

Good luck!

[@bigDbigDbigD]

first time I ever heard that explained. great job

[@ZippoVarga]

Glad you liked it!

[@codysiegrist3355]

I’ve looked a long time for this video. I borrowed the coil on my mgb and I’m trying to wire it back in

[@ZippoVarga]

I hope it's helpful! Zip~

[@sixtyfiveford]

Nicely Done.

[@deandombrowski3520]

Will that work for 6 V system

[@ZippoVarga]

Very true and great advice! Thanks for your input. I hope others read comments to learn of this addition if using an automotive coil. Again, thanks much!! Cheers!

[@owenmanzano518]

Hi sir im have a question if how to fix ignition coil to distributor susuki multicab 6cylinder thanks

[@stevennewquist3523]

thanks so much zippo. I may use a starter generator later on in the future but for now i have just left it alone. cause im going to use it for a snowplow in the winter i will just bring the battery in the house until i have to use it. thank you zippo

[@ZippoVarga]

Providing you are using a small engine Coil, the old Condenser will be fine. If using an Automotive Coil, you will need an in line resistor or you will burn up the automotive coils quickly. Hope this helps! Cheers!!

[@ZippoVarga]

Thank you! I hope it helps someone out of a bad spot!

[@ZippoVarga]

Thanks! I had intended on making this video some time back and it slipped my mind. I've got a slight case of "CRS" lol. Cheers!

[@robhoward35]

thanks, i might try that on my wisconsin..no spark, points frozen, i cleaned it up ,still nothing..a bat.& ext. coil is awsome idea

[@rivernorcal679]

I'm only as good as my horse. Thanks for the videos that help me to travel aBlaze. Dogspeed!

[@owenwilliams5388]

Thanks, Zippo!! Worked like a charm!!

[@rocknrollrod5]

I have a panzer with a Kohler motor. It ran all summer, and two days ago no go. If I hold the spark plug wire, not even a tickle. I put new points, 18 gap, new coil and condenser, no go, I'm stuck HELP. I tested the coil and it shocked the crap out of me so I guess that is good.

[@MrNytrosdad]

Thank you sir this really helped me out!!! subscribed..

[@Woodsman160]

Excellent information. Thank you!

[@ZippoVarga]

I'm glad you found it useful Woods! Zip~

[@ZippoVarga]

Hi Steven. Kohlers equipped with an alternator/stator must also have a regulator/rectifier in order to be able to run without a battery. Don't connect the alternator/stator directly to the coil. Another option is, if you have room, add a pulley flywheel cover and a starter generator with a regulator like is shown on my Kohler. I hope this helps!

[@WTFIsThisGuyDoing233]

Exactly what I needed thanks.

[@ZippoVarga]

In most cases, yes, you can use most any small engine condenser in place of one that is suspected to be bad.

[@ButchMelton]

ME TO I WEAR GLASSES BUT THEY DONT WORK TO WELL...IM TO OLD TO GET THEM FIXED NOW...MY EYES THAT IS...LMCAO...ANYWAY I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR PUTTING THIS ONE UP...I HAD A HARD TIME FINDING THE OLD TYPE OF COIL HOOK UPS NOW A DAYS ALL THE CARS HAS THOSE STUPID BLOCK COILS OR COILS FOR EACH PLUG WIRE...WHICH COST MORE GO FIGURE..PLUS THEY WEAR OUT FASTER...OLD COILS LAST ALMOST A LIFE TIME OF THE CAR...LMCAO...ANYWAY THANKS...I NEED THIS BEEN LONG TIME SINCE I DONE IT AND MY OLD BRAIN FORGOT HOW TO BUT I CAN REBUILD A 4 BARREL CARB AND A WHOLE OLD STYLE ENGINE...MY LAST REBUILD MOTOR WAS A 472....LATER THEY CAME OUT WITH A 500...IT WAS A GOOD BUILD AND FIRED UP THE FIRST TIME IT TURNED OVER ....IT WAS A BIG CAR AND A BIG ENGINE AND IT WOULD HAUL THE TRASH OUT....LOL...THANKS AGAIN....

[@ZippoVarga]

BUTCH, I'M GLAD THE VIDEO HELPED JUMP START THE OLD MEMORY BANKS. I CAN ONLY SPECULATE THAT YOU ARE A CADILLAC MAN. THE 500, SO FAR AS MY MEMORY RECOLLECTS, WAS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE CADILLAC LINE UP IN THE 1970'S. ALL THREE OF ME VEHICLES ARE VINTAGE (24, 26 AND 38 YEARS OLD) AND ARE ALL SINGLE COIL POWERED. TWO ARE FUEL INJECTED HOWEVER. BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR REPAIR!! ZIP~

[@GDTractor]

I see I commented before .. but this could work on an old tractor with a magneto too - couldn't it ? Thanks Zippo! Gary

[@Taqi67]

Good can you explain this wiring in car ignition system as well.

[@davidboatner3115]

The little condenser by coil is for the radio on my truck, I don’t have a radio so I remove that and no issues

[@paulg444]

Biggest tip in this video, notice how he has mounted his coil with a mounting band away from his carburetor.. Friends, do youself a favor and do the same.

[@BigOvlogger]

Just what I needed because I haven't worked on an old engine like this one in a long time. I have a rectangular-shaped box between the postive post on the coil and my battery. What is it?

[@jonathansansoucie5378]

I had a kohler motor with the generator starter on it it ran good

[@robertclark4929]

Just got a wheelhorse with a k series Kohler 12 hp and no spark. Condenser thing is on plus side with another wire going to switch. Update. I reversed wires and tractor fired right up.

[@ralphlandress9165]

I HAD AN IDEA OF MY QWN TO DO THIS , BUT WASN'T SURE HOW TO DO IT. THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO. THE PRICE OF AN O.E. COIL IS OVER 100.00 AND I HAVE A MULCHER THAT NEEDS A COIL, BUT NOT ONE FOR THAT PRICE

[@exogator]

Good video. On a side note make sure that you check whether your vehicle is negative ground or positive ground, recently bought an old British car from 1960 and it's a positive ground but there are no markings anywhere to say that.

[@ZippoVarga]

It's always a good practice to note where the positive cable goes on a new to you vehicle. Some earlier Lincolns are also positive ground. Good info to pass along. Thanks Exogator! Zip~

[@exogator]

ZippoVarga like I said mine had no description of what the cables are, both have universal strap terminals on them, only reason I noticed was after poking around with the dizzy cap off gapping the contacts, then hand cranking the motor to check(it's that old that it has a hand crank still) and when putting it back in I noticed the coil was wired with positive to the cap and negative to the battery.

[@ZippoVarga]

Good Catch Exo! Most wouldn't notice that. Zip~

[@73GMC1500]

I did this to a friends b110 that had a bad coil / mag. Works great. So when my b10 started symptoms of losing spark when got, I bought a coil and set it up the same way. I cannot get it to spark. Points are new. I have swapped coil and condenser with ones of a running tractor so I know they're not bad. Yes I have 12 volts to the coil when the switch is on.

[@ZippoVarga]

My only guess is that either the gap isn't quite right on the points or the cam bump for closing the points is worn to the point where it is no longer effective. If the original coil is still in place, try installing a Nova II points eliminator in place of the points. This will not work with the battery ignition coil though. Those are my thoughts. Zip~

[@73GMC1500]

Thanks zip. I did try adjusting the points both ways. Once in a while I would get a brief spark. I think ultimately I'm going to pull the engine and install a new Mag / coil then also add a nova 2 and it should be reliable for a long time.

[@michaelrichter8204]

Very good explanation! Can you pls explain the two wire type comdensor wiring? I would really appreciate.(it seems the two wire type has both a positive and earth wire...)

[@billykid5076]

Thinks for your time.

[@stanleyschaffer3558]

Great explantion-THX

[@alryley2]

Thanks alot man. great help and great info!

[@willthethrill521]

thank you! very helpful

[@ZippoVarga]

I'm glad you found the video helpful Will! Zip~

[@tomduncan1970]

Excellent video

[@ZippoVarga]

Thanks Tom! Zip~

[@chrislamoureux2505]

hello there , idd like to say thankyou for the video , i not used to these old systems and i have a vintage 1950`s - mid 1960`s 30 ft boom Forklift to get running and get home , and it has lost its spark , i had changed coil thinking it was that , but the guy i got it from had messed with it and he too could got get spark, it turns out booth of us has it Wired wrong , i will go back to it and try to wire it right following what u said on this post , The way it is wired right now ( wrong ) the points on the + and the other - side is grounded , so this could be why. Will wire a red wire on the + side directly to the battery , and on the negative side will stick that on the points and condenser side. and try that.

[@ZippoVarga]

That should give you spark providing the points are in good repair Chris. Best of luck! Zip~

[@heliarche]

That must be a different engine than I had on the genny/welder in that case.I'm not sure which model it was but it was older than dirt.I couldn't even get points for it(didn't really know where to look though)so I put an eliminator on it.The Kohlers I've owned always did good for me though and this one looks like it was taken care of.Mine always looked like something that was dragged out of a swamp so if that means anything you ought to have a good experience with it.

[@bolens733]

Thanks for you help this helps me out tons.

[@mikebarbkeill8659]

Hi zippo,mike here from France,great video,I'm going to use it On my 10 hp honda outboard,it's 4stroke 2 cylinder,got a new coil coming Not sure if the condenser is ok,so I think it's a good idea to get one, Honda say 0.24 microfarads is that number critical. Thanks mike

[@ZippoVarga]

Try the condenser with the new coil. It's either good or bad. There's no in between with them. The microfarads sounds like the ohm equivalence we use to measure resistance here in the US, so if you do need to replace the condenser, I would stick with the factory recommended condenser. Thanks for stopping in and I wish you the best in the repair!! Cheers! Zip~

[@hardtop123]

ZippoVarga microfarads measures capacitance, whereas ohms measures resistance. they are both different measurements.

[@ZippoVarga]

maverick351 Thank you for clearing that up for me. I'm not clear at all on resistance and capacitance and their differences, so this is very helpful for those who don't know, like my self. With this explanation, one holds a charge and the other resists....am I understanding correctly now? Thanks again!

[@hardtop123]

ZippoVarga yes, you are correct……glad to be of help….makes the world go round just that little bit easier!!!

[@billymorrison7919]

In the commentary from 0.55 to 1.15 min the description is wrong , In the external battery powered coil current is flowing through the coil when the points are Closed creating a magnetic field from the primary winding in the coil that surrounds the secondary , ( high tension ) winding , as the engine rotates to the correct position to fire , the points then Open.!! The current flowing in the primary ceases and the magnetic field collapses , that is where the condenser comes into play , it reduces the arc when the points break and ensures a faster collapse of the primary field The collapsing field induces a high voltage in the Secondary coil which is Conducted by the High Tension lead to the spark plug

[@dalenassar9152]

HI, I have searched far and wide for the answer to two simple questions: (1)Is the internal secondary wire connected to the "+" or the "-" terminal of the ignition coil? (2) In which directions are the two coils wound, say, looking down at the top of the ignition coil? Also are they wound in the same or opposite directions? THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS RARE VIDEO!

[@ZippoVarga]

nationalmaglab.org/education/magnet-academy/watch-play/interactive/ignition-coil

[@firstevidentenigma]

Capacitors are condensers. Condensers are old pre-solid-state-device names for caps.

[@bobdelaplage690]

Thx brother! Tested my + resp -side of the coil…did not have 12 volts…car dont start.’..can i jumpwire direct from battery +?the coil is healthy, interchanged the coil with another car, and the coil is ok ! I just want the car started tomorrow as a quick fix to move the car.’..

[@GDTractor]

Thanks Zippo !! this is very helpful !! just have to figure out .. where the points wire is inside the magneto .. :) ... Thanks .. Gary

[@ZippoVarga]

I'm not sure where two contact points that are not contacting one another are capable of delivering a spark unless you are using a Tesla Coil to fire your engine. The contact points close (touch) in order to provide spark at a precise moment in the compression cycle to ignite the fuel. I'm not saying you're wrong so much as asking you how, when open, the points can complete the circuit to deliver the charge to the plug. Cheers.

[@tommyellis9857]

I know my coil is wired wrong and fuel relay what color wires go to coil pack on 86 thunderbird 5.0

[@Mark-zz9rt]

I have a wiring mess on a K321 . The previous owner had the condenser and the battery power on the same terminal on the coil. Had a real weak spark. And for some reason the starter is only getting 5 V even though I have 12 at the starting solenoid

[@ZippoVarga]

Isolate the engine from the implement or mower you are working on (bypass all the piece of equipment's wiring from the engine. Then wire just the engine with a battery. Ground the block with the negative. Run a jump wire to the Coil (+ from the battery +) then the "-" negative goes from the coil to the points with the Condenser attached to the "-". Then, run a heavy cable (wire) to the starter lug bolt. When you're ready to check spark and the starters performance, touch the heavy cable from the starter to the + terminal of the battery. At this point you should have good spark (pending the condition of the points) and the starter should get the full benefit of the battery. Your issues are all too common unfortunately. It's best to go from the engine to the rest of the wiring harness. Find a Wiring Diagram on line to help guide you. Zip~

[@jajaid6]

if the condensor is bad can it be replaced by any old garden tractor condensor or does it need to be specific to that model engine?thanks for your time.

[@rickardwood2762]

Negitive coil w cond to points THEN be sure you have a GROUND wire from ADVANCE plate to dist cast. Mine didnt have one Nowwith extra ground from vac adv stud to battry no more Goast Fire. No missin or skippen.Needed felpro to lift dist to get time right .the gaskets FAT.

[@crazeyspivey]

I bought a 74 Dodge with a 318 with a "crank but no spark" scenario. I have been replacing everything in the ignition system, and still have no spark. Today I realized that the last owner had run the external capacitor/condensor (whats the difference?) from the Coil's "+" terminal and then to a ground bolt. I removed the external capacitor/condensor and installed a new coil, and thought that would solve the problem. But still no spark. Would the mistake of having the capacitor run to the Coil "+" terminal have been the reason for no spark?

[@darrellwekwert7994]

thanks ur the best

[@kwells4438]

This question is on a older post. Since I just found this information and applied it today. It worked great. I wired my positive to my ignition and my old Wheel Horse is up and running again. However I need information about the in line resistor you spoke to 574carter about. I am using a automobile coil... I think. Was in my shed and figure that's where it came from. I have the condenser installed as you stated and used a automobile condenser but do I need some kind of in line resistor? If so will you explain a bit further for me?

[@ZippoVarga]

Just keep check for things to get hot, like the condenser and coil. If they get pretty warm to the touch, you'll need to chance the condenser and/or add a resistor. The exact science isn't known by me, but we have a gentleman in the comments named maverick351 that understands this part of the process better than I do. I would contact him if possible and if you find your coil is over heating.

[@frankstano7009]

Zippo if if my coil isn't connected right with the battery with grounded like you said and what would that cause popping in the engine like if I could hear like a popping sound coming out of the exhaust down in the bottom of the engine and it's a 1950 Ford car

[@ZippoVarga]

The intermittent popping you speak of is usually points or ignition related at the distributor. It can be a dirty spark plug, bad plug wire that is arcing somewhere or the condenser could be going bad which would cause the points to visibly spark and cause the popping you describe. If your engine is still using the original points operated distributor then those are the things to check. If you've got an aftermarket electronic spark ignition then with the engine running, listen closely for a sharp click under the hood. This would be the faulty plug wire or other component arcing to ground intermittently. The easiest way to locate these types of faults is to start the engine and in as dark a place as you can find, just do a visual under the hood. You're looking for a strobing blue or yellow flash. When you find that, that is your problem. If nothing is seen or heard, typically doing a full tuneup will help or rid you of the ignition misfire. Zip~

[@mr.redneck2715]

Your close but it’s when the points open that the circuit becomes incomplete and the field in the coil collapses and goes to ground through the spark plug. Good video though.

[@heliarche]

This would replace the magneto I assume, but is there an advantage to it or is it in case your magneto is shot and you can't replace it? Or perhaps for an engine that is built without a magneto.

[@lesthompson5907]

ok hears a question i have just acquired a quod ., scooter engine . & it got a feu problems with the waring infant it cut to bit's & i think it time to rethink the system & revert to fitng points . here's a quick thought given it as a place where the trigger coil fits as a pace of rased steel would this lift the points sufficient to open the points & fier the coil ? it 0ne mill thik prap's tow. i supo's a spot of weld may lift the pins more . but i would prefer not to wel on the fly wheel. the stream reman as the ratified garger for the battery . Praps you could answer this question .

[@mikefrederick4096]

So the Positive side of the coil goes directly to the battery or to the ignition post on the key switch?.... I'm working on an old Ford/Jacobson with a K341 and the wiring harness is a mess and the original ignition switch was faulty when I purchased the tractor. I had to running last year for the summer mower season by jumping the solenoid but this year I wanted to install an ignition switch and build a new wiring harness. The original ignition switch had 5 terminals and the new one has 4 terminals/posts. Start, ignition battery and accessories. I was thinking the positive side of the coil should go to the Ignition post on the switch?....Am I wrong?.

[@ZippoVarga]

So long as the key switch has + battery power when switched on to one of the terminals, you can connect the coil there for sure. Zip~

[@tbsomerville5798]

Hey zippo , do you have a video on how to bench test an external coil. I have a Kohler K341 with no spark & is driving me nuts. I believe I’ve checked everything except the coil itself

[@justinmitchell-xp6gq]

Where exactly is your negative battery cable grounded to? I am having trouble getting my Kohler engine just like yours grounded.

[@ZippoVarga]

I typically run a ground to the engine block. Anywhere on the block should be fine so long as you clear any paint from the access point.

[@stevenkasten1149]

Does that way work for a positive negative vehicle

[@CORINKERSTEN]

I have an lj80 and the condenser is on the distributor, is the ignition the same as the points box? do i connect the negative to the condenser even though it is on the distributor? and is the ignition on a relay which connects the positive to the coil? so the main coil wire goes to the distributor is that the only wire that goes across because the spark plugs are grounded? i hope you understand and can help thanks? i don't realy know what i'm doing

[@Gearheadtom]

if you're using a regular automotive coil, you should use a ballast resistor as well, or the coil will run hot and won't last as long.

[@vladimirvuka4952]

Hello there,,, I saw your video and was helpful, I have a gravely that has an ignition coil that connect to fly wheel.. there is one wire that goes to sparking plug and another male connector. is any way you can tell me where the connector goes... How should I wire that so I can stop the machine running.... thanks in advance

[@luism2959]

This is a set up for tractor mower only?

[@ricardoservin2016]

I have a case 300 we are trying to run. It had gas but no spark . There's power running to the coil but from there on, no more power

[@ZippoVarga]

It sounds like the coil it self is bad Ricardo.

[@dougshadrjck3885]

So the coil has to bolted to the block also saying it is grounded to

[@ZippoVarga]

No, it doesn't have to ground to the engine, but the Condenser will need grounded. The coil is positive battery only. The band is just to secure it with any means necessary. Zip~

[@gergemall]

Thank you

[@derickthompson8669]

Can you ground out the coil on the negative side I would assume not because the coil is grounded on the case right

[@ZippoVarga]

No. The negative post on a coil isn't for negative or ground, the + is for the battery input and the - goes to the points. The grounding happens on the case of the unit when it's mounted. Zip~

[@derickthompson8669]

@@ZippoVarga thank you I figured it out I didn't have ohms on the coils I was using, the couple coils I used only had .8 ohms and 1.7ohms and I found that 2.8-3 ohms works the best for my application thank you

[@alexisrios9127]

I have the same engine on my John Deere 212 mower tractor can I use Msd coil blaster 2 and upgrade the condenser to 20hp

[@southernborn10000]

Hi Zippo, i have watch quite a few of your videos, and they are great. I need help with my 73 landlord. i tried wiring up an aftermarket key switch with no luck, mostly because i dont know jack about older points style motors with starter generators, so i just left it alone before i fried something! Any help you can give me with the complete wiring, I would greatly appreciate it. It will be great since the switch is all I've spent so far, the tractor was free! Thanks for any help you can give.

[@THEMUDKING16]

Do you put the positive to the negative or positive side of the battery

[@robertdillahayii4763]

There is only 1 wire coming from my points box. The condenser and points seem to be on the same wire. How can it go 2 different places on the coil?

[@GDTractor]

Do you have a video on where and how and what to hookup a resistor with the coil that does NOT have an internal resistor? thanks Gary

[@bluddyrowdy8757]

Durn, i was here looking for answer to same Question.. It appears if coil has 4 ohms Resistance no added external-resistor required..which is NOT working for me as Coils keep burning out.. I do know if external resister is used, need a 4 wire ignition switch, so as ext-resistor is NOT in circuit when starting, but Must be in-circuit when engine is running. My big-problem is what are the actual resistor ( and coil-resistance ) Values specifically ? A 4 ohm coil burnt-out after just a few hours, i have another Coil that measures 1.5 ohms, and seems like it would be a waste of time just using that as-is....

[@richardl6751]

Of course, don't forget to charge the battery once in a while.

[@vintagesimplicitytractors9464]

How does it work with a briggs and stratton 19d. Cuz points and condenser are both togeather. No videos on yt explaining this

[@sorehair7075]

While the vehicle is running I have around 13.45 volts going into the coil and around 6+ coming out of it into the distributor. Is that how it should be? If not , is my coil bad? Its new.

[@Thatuptownguy]

I have a 66 SS-10 I got a new 12v battery in it and I noticed my existing ignition coil started leaking oil and was extremely hot. I disconnected the neg battery terminal and it cooled off and stopped leaking. Seems that it could possible be a 6v coil? The coil does look aged and it actually still works now even after leaking oil. Im expecting it will fail at some point. My plan is to purchase a new 12v coil from the auto store but I want to know why this existing one started melting down and spewing oil after 2 hours connected. Any input?

[@deeveloper2567]

Excellent video. I have a NOVA electronic ignition in lieu of points and condenser on my AC B-110. I would like to add a coil as you have shown because I have a weak spark and engine won't fire. Will this external coil still work with the NOVA module ?

[@ZippoVarga]

No it will not. You will have to return to a points fired ignition in order to achieve using a battery ignition. If you have a weak spark, change your spark plug to a hotter burning plug. I doubt it's the coil causing the issue. It's possible the flywheel and coil need cleaned up a little and re-gapped. Cheers! Zip~

[@deeveloper2567]

I was trying to avoid pulling the engine, to access coil, which entails almost complete disassembly of the front half of tractor :(

[@ZippoVarga]

I have a video showing the process and it truly doesn't take long to accomplish. Zip~

[@deeveloper2567]

I replaced NOVA with points and condenser and got back the spark, ;). I guess NOVA's do wear out. I'll remember about your engine pulling video. thanks.

[@avantespyder8630]

Ty

[@joshmankin9028]

hello my name is josh and i recently bought an internal resistor coil exactly like u have in the video but a little more interesting question is that i put a 5.0 (302) in my 95 ford ranger and i would like to know how to wire that coil on my single wire distributor with a push button start and a toggle switch. i have so for gotten everything wired up for starting wise put cant get spark to the spark plugs

[@swilliams9213]

Question… I have ‘69 Lincoln mark III with A 460 engine. It has a capacitor/condenser on the outside of the coil just like the one in your video. There is also a condenser in the distributor with the points. Should there be 2?

[@ZippoVarga]

This is a question best answered by a knowledgeable Ford Mechanic. I don't know the requirements. Zip~

[@guadalupearismendez7767]

Have a Clark forklift that I need to troubleshoot coil and distributer cap . Itt doesn't have points it has a little black box with two wires coming out of distributer where do they go on the coil. I have hot on positive and when I turn key I have hot on negative but nothing coming out of coil. How do I wire it correctly. Please help

[@jonathansansoucie5378]

I put this motor on craftsman with the 3 speed high low rear end and it's side shaft rear end built pully guids and motore mounts to bolt my 12 kohler onto it and make it a belt driven side shaft mower but I don't know how to wire it up to make it run I have my negative from cool to points but I also have a wire coming of the part that I changed on the motor to make it charge but I don't know wear it goes my egniton,my silinoed,my battery I honestly don't know and do I still run the positive from my coil to my positive on the battery or does it go some whear else now

[@jeffnations6649]

How do I know if my coil is good? How do I test it?

[@cocopublicnews6766]

Omg I just realised my car is positive ground that's why it didnt work would it be the positive hooked to the ground or negative from battery wire also comes from generator that's grounded with the positive would that go to the positive or negative on coil

[@alvinhendricks9158]

hi how do you see if there is fire on the coil i swinged the motor but there no spark coming from the coil . I checked the points there is a spark . do i need a new coil or what can it be .

[@KasenaSimukoko-tj3qh]

I have a maruti 4piston and it has a misfire..I check the spark at the plugs it look orange in colour and the coil heating up now..what can be the problem

[@shesmint3162]

I have a wheel horse gt 14 with a kohler k 321 and it had electric ignition when I got it and no key ignition and I bought one for it but I don’t want to use lights or accessories so do I need the magneto? I have to check if the stator is there

[@DML350]

I know this is old video but if you run your coil like this can you use the nova 2 to get rid of the point and if so would you still need a condenser?

[@ZippoVarga]

The Nova II is not compatible with external Coil ignition. It's to be used with a Magneto type ignition system.

[@DML350]

Is there a option for something like this that you know of that works for the external coil

[@ramirogovea3092]

What is the purpose of the condenser? I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger that won’t start. The condenser wire is frail.

[@ZippoVarga]

The Condenser serves as a charge storage device, much like a Capacitor and they are prone to going bad and inexpensive to replace. Zip~

[@FZ-sv4tm]

Yo zippo I have this mess going on can you explain to me where these wires go on the coil and then from there I need to figure out where some of the wires go into the solenoid

[@derekserrano563]

I have a question about the condenser. Using a test light With the ignition switch on Is the positive side of the coil supposed to be hot?

[@ZippoVarga]

Both sides of the coil are actually "hot" when the coil fires. The "-" negative symbol is simply the wire going from the coil to the points. So, with the key switch on, the coil will be hot going to it and coming from the negative side when the points close. The instant the points release, the stored energy in the condenser it released and the spark plug fires. Zip~