how to wire ELECTRONIC IGNITION on ANYTHING custom automotive wiring from scratch part 3

I said there would be gaps... I apologize that I can not do a video on everyones ignition project. but this video should HELP out . car is a 1978 Datsun 280Z

[@khancross]

Why using a 6V coil for explanation of a 12V system? This makes it confused for newbees

[@chriscraft77022]

you have a lot to learn

[@CrashxHitman85]

No we do that’s why we are watching all your shit

[@66carterj]

I'm working on a 1977 Impala 2 door and I just got a mallory distributor with this type of coil I haven't found as clear a description yet. Good job and thank you.

[@joshlepley1306]

I can finally understand all of this. I watched all the alternator conversions in your older videos re wiring my 64 Impala. It helped a ton!! Now when im watching car videos im checking out their wiring haha.

[@JohnHuxleySavage]

Really great video! I recently bought a 1996 Subaru Domingo that had some starting issues in particularly wet or humid weather. Previous owners had replaced the battery, spark plugs and wires, starter motor, fuel pressure regulator, and the problem persisted. I had a peak into the ignition coil connection on the harness side and lo and behold, corrosion had eaten away at one of the two connections (the ground I believe) to the point that only about 2 or 3 strands of copper were holding fast. The car would start with the help of a jump starter on bad days, probably because it boosted the voltage a little, but otherwise the voltage drop across that connection was probably too much to overcome (I should have measured it to check, but was too excited to fix the problem). Replacing the wire and connection and adding better insulation is so far proving effective! Super satisfying to find and fix problems like this and videos like yours are what make it possible!

[@joyitas]

Great troubleshooting dude. Im having myself problems with a s

[@michaelbloom5342]

Your explanations are so thorough and clear. You've already got a good amount of subscribers, I just hope it keeps growing and blows up huge!

[@leviscott8519]

I appreciate how you take the time to draw out the wiring layouts and your explanations of the how and the very important why of what you are doing. Vehicle wiring can be confusing for me but you are my kind of teacher! Very helpful videos! Your the man! Datsun L engines are a solid design A+++++++++ brother

[@68pishta68]

excellent description on the mysterious ballast resistor. Ill add the Mopar uses this style and they tend to have starting issues that can be traced the this ballast resistor. They use an ignition switch that has 3 terminals: ACC-RUN-START terminals. They run the RUN circuit through the ballast resistor and the START circuit past the ballast resistor so it bypasses it giving the coil a full 12V. While in RUN the ballast is used and the hotter it gets, the more resistance it produces cutting the coil voltage down to about 9V to extend the life of the point style ignition. Often Mopar will get a start but no run once the key reverts to RUN position, that means the ballast resistor is open. Seems the 240Z will ground the ballast only during RUN thus making it in circuit, leaving it floating during START.

[@MudRFunR]

I subscribed some time ago. After you posted Part 1, I hit the bell! Can't miss this wiring series. Very well explained. I'm not new to auto wiring but there is always more to learn. Thanks!

[@user-ki4wz2ic7h]

Thanks for the explanation. I never understood the resistor before. Keep up the good work!

[@DustyMacsGarage]

Learned alot in this series Chris!!!!!

[@markl6769]

Great job Chris, Thanks for taking the time.

[@jeffreyalbin101]

Very helpful . I have a 66 k-10 and bought a 65 327 to put in it when the 350 that was in when I bought it shit the bed . There was a hei distributor on the 350 which is a 80 something blue paint not compatible I've come to believe won't work on my gen 1 . I have point style distributor came with my 327 . Worked great in the 350 I have not jack shit for spark when on the 327 natta ! Looking for solutions literally watched 20 dif vids that a are lacking specific info , YOU NAILED MY MY MINDS EYE TO WTF IS UP ! I AM EXTREMELY GRATEFUL FOR YOUR DILIGENT AND THROUGH Explanation WITH DRAWN OUT DIAGRAM . YOU HAVE A GIFT AS I AM ALSO SLIGHTLY DYSLEXIC AND FRUSTRATION CAN BURY ME . THANK YOU FROM A MATTER OF SINK OR SWIM SCALE 1-10 YOU NAILED 10 . NO ONE NAILS 10 . IF EVER IM RICH AND FAMOUS OR JUST HAVE SOLID FINANCES TO PAY FORWARD NOT MANY ON MY LIST FOR BIG DONATIONS IF ANY BUT YOU WILL KNOW IF THINGS WORK IN MY FAVOR . THE IMPORTANCE OF MAKING THIS TRUCK RUN ARE ALSO 10 AND NONE OF MY QUESTIONS WERE EVEN UNDERSTOOD IN MY WORLD. THANK YOU ... POINTS STYLE DIST Paramount RFN ! All things up ,👍🤸🕛ℹ️✝️🆙🔭 okay I'm done .

[@chriscraft77022]

I have a GM points ignition video that shows how to wire it up 100% on my 70 Chevelle

[@jamest.5001]

3:07 the ballist bypass wire is important for a Couple reasons . One being the voltage drop while starting. It can drop to as low as 9.5 volts +/-. The ballast cutting it nearly in half. That leaves good bit less than 6-9 v for the coil and ignition components. It can drop to a point where it can no longer function. And on the other side it can supply a hotter spark for lighting a rich mixture when cold. Damp plug does not want to spark.. basically being shorted out with a high resistance. You need high voltage, high current to get past the short. And less voltage into the coil less voltage out. The constant 13-14 v to the coil will over heatvtge points if equipped, and the coil will overheat eventually possibly burn up, and a over heated coil of wire inside a sealed container of OIL! What could possibly happen? Spray hot oil on s hotter engine, and the oil will possibly turn into a flame soon as it sees air! ,✌️

[@Corona_Paul]

So glad and thankful for your content bro 👌

[@fordinlinestraight]

Spot on . Great video

[@oacumulador]

Great explained

[@luigipiodaddetta4286]

Where i can find a good cdi box to use point tips ignition?

[@CKirk2727]

Hi Chris, Thanks for all the great info. I'm upsizing to a 150am Alternator for a High Amperage Electric Fan, and was wondering if this will take care of things. I'm using 2awg Cables, nothing over 31" Positive Side Battery Terminal To Distribution Block Alternator to Distribution Block Starter Solenoid to Distribution Block Neg Battery Terminal to Engine Block Engine Block to Frame Engine Block to smaller Frame Alternator Ground to Engine Block I guess my question is, does this sound like I'm doing things right or do I need to have some fuses in this array somewhere. I Know it's kind of an out there question, but it's Hard being a 71 year old Rookie. Thanks !!! CK

[@michellehughes4694]

Where do you buy 10g fusible link wire?

[@thehopefulspirit151]

Just to be clear .. if I have a 12v coil I don’t use the ballast resistor?

[@chriscraft77022]

no ballast resistor

[@afsecaira]

if i have a 12v coil i can remove the resistor? my car has a hard to start condition every time, cold or hot start.

[@chriscraft77022]

what is the vehicle? why is it hard to start?

[@afsecaira]

@@chriscraft77022 d21 pathfinder. With z24 engine. New weber carb.

[@bdrosity6673]

Question, I did a motor swap on my 1976 Ford F-150. I took my 76’ 302 out and replaced it with a 95’ 302. We’re having trouble with the distributor. The 95’ is electronic where the 76’ was a points system. We tried to used the 76’ distributor with the 95’ motor but it seems that they’re not the same length or the oil pump rods are different lengths. The ignition plugs are not the same either. Not to sure what to do. Do we need to update the ignition?

[@chriscraft77022]

why not use the distributor from the 95?

[@bdrosity6673]

@@chriscraft77022 The 95’ motor is an EFI where the truck itself is a carburetor. The 1995 distributor does not have the right ignition plug for the ignition of the 76, the pick up seems to be different. Am sure the 95 distributor would work but I’m at a loss on how to rewrite it to fit the 76 ignition plug.

[@CrashxHitman85]

Mane I’ve been watching your videos for a couple weeks now. And I cannot find a video that has the components I have. It’s always these three things I can’t identify

[@1997hachiroku]

Hi Craft customs, what is my starter doesn’t have the R Terminal? It only has the battery Terminal and ignition terminals that goes to the key?

[@chriscraft77022]

R is for 6 volt coil.. what is your vehicle?

[@denpepp4342]

What caus3s the HEI to stop working. Ive replaced 3. Runs a few hours then shutters. Replace the hei and all it good. Any ideas?

[@chriscraft77022]

how much did you pay for the module? heat kills them and a bad ground will fry it

[@denpepp4342]

@chriscraft77022 I've bought the accell ones from oriley. Thankfully they let me return them 😀

[@filmart430]

Is the big ballast directional?

[@chriscraft77022]

no

[@osselinfrantzso888]

I expected to see how you wire the spark plugs too

[@chriscraft77022]

i didnt change that.. that is left alone on the car.. this car came with electronic ignition from the factory

[@theblackrifle7824]

This video is super helpful. I have been having issues with the engine kickback during starting situations only. I am using a megasquirt ecu. The fourms tell me I'm having slow rpm thats sporadic during cranking and pointing me towards my grounds. The vehicle has ford tfi ignition with an msd box. I have my box Ground strifht back to the negative terminal on my battery. Should I have the Ground for the box routed to the engine block?

[@wrendooley]

Picked up a Datsun and it don’t get spark I watch this and I feel so dumb for still not understanding it

[@chriscraft77022]

what year is your car?

[@bondjovi4595]

Or the dynatech booooster

[@elchimpo9590]

Firstist !!!!