how to remove rust from cast iron

[@wittworks]

I can help you maximize your track saw or trim router set-up 👉 wittworks.shop

[@jlippencott1]

The “staining” is actually microscopic rust pitting. The very last thing you want to do is sanding to attempt to remove it. Sanding will remove material from the flatness of the surface and make things worse. That last bit of staining will cause no harm except for the cosmetic appearance.

[@ChrisHornberger]

Bingo! Don't turn it into a potato chip for the sake of some ideal of aesthetics.

[@ADHDbuilt]

Chef here. We clean the hot plates , and to get the surface looking like new, use some lemon juice. The acid will brighten up the surface almost instantly, then clean off and oil.

[@wittworks]

oh wow.

[@mchristofas]

@@wittworks vinegar works too.

[@LRN2DIY]

As it turns out, I bought almost the same SawStop used recently (5 hp 220v) but didn’t have room in my shop for it since I’m currently converting my garage into a shop. I carefully wrapped up the SawStop with tarps, tied it down and, sadly, had to leave it outside on a pallet. The winds went wild and somehow blew the tarp off in a rainstorm and it rusted pretty quickly. I still don’t have room to work on it so I’ll have to do so when the shop is finished. Looks like I’ll be going through a similar process on mine before too long. I hope it comes out half as nice as yours!

[@wittworks]

Oh wow! Looking forward to seeing what you can do. I did find the sawstop sells the tops so you can replace them….for $800!!! Also, your hammer reinvented thumbnail is one of my fav on KZbin. Brilliant.

[@LRN2DIY]

@@wittworks Nice! I’ll see how well I’m able to clean it up but it may come to that. Thanks for the video!

[@williamreinhard]

@@wittworks Glad to know I can by a new top if I need to. Mine is even more rusted than yours, I really don't know if I can save it but I'll definitely try.

[@coreystine1001]

if you ever have to do anything like this again may i suggest covering the cast in paper towels and soaking them in your solution of choice. wd40 pb blaster evaporust or that stuff from carbon coat. let the towels sit for a half hr or so. most of my tools are second hand and ive used this method to restore quite a few cast tops really helps.

[@vikassm]

Cost-Effective, Long lasting restoration for rusty Cars/Old machinery: 1. Use Mild Acetic or Citric acid solution to dissolve the rust first. It is extremely effective. Wire-brush. 2. Then go in with a hydrocarbon based solvent (WD40), Or just plain old 50-50 Kerosene+Diesel. (Wire-Brush and Sanding) 2.5. Use Galvanising Zinc spray for everything other than machined surfaces. 3. Spray finish everything with Polyurethane or acrylic clear-coat. (Wax/Polish/Buff optional) BAM. Rust proofed for 25 years.

[@miki09876]

Agreed or naval jelly or evapo-rust.

[@stgsux]

yeah soak in paper towels and maybe plastic wrap on top to prevent the paper towels drying out for a longer soak. evaporust is pretty amazing

[@nwa2102]

It looks good. I don't know if it matters if it's a couple thou out, but are you worried about how flat it is? If there is a machine shop with a surface grinder in your area you can probably get them to grind the surface flat again. It might also clear off more of the staining

[@dangkolache]

I would genuinely be shattered if I walked into my shop to see this. When I saw your community post I thought there's no way it could be as bad as he's making it out to be, but damn man, I feel for you. I'm sure you'll get this a billion times but would insurance have covered replacement parts?

[@wittworks]

Still waiting to hear back. 🤞

[@hrodwulf172]

Tbh if the motor housing is holding water I think you would just call the whole thing FUBAR, it's probably not worth the work/risk of failure assuming he has the right insurance and most of a replacement is covered.

[@vhoward1122]

Only if he had a rider on his homeowners insurance that also covered the contents of the home for water damage.

[@dopplex]

@@vhoward1122 Note that it can also depend on the source of the water damage, and all of this is highly dependent on the fine print of the policy. Ie, my homeowners covers a burst pipe, but doesn't cover a failed sump pump (And boy do I wish I'd known that before my sump pump failed...)

[@Greg_Gatsby]

My experience suggests that claims such as this, when the insurance company pays you, it’s really just a loan payed back under the guise of rate increases. Sometimes it’s better to eat the loss rather than forcing the insurance claim.

[@boreduser1583]

Plain white vinegar removes rust fairly well. Can be used in the first steps to remove the bulk of rust then dry and oil after

[@jcuprisi]

It’s cast iron, it’s flat. Use a flat board with 100 grit automotive grade wet or dry sandpaper. Work your way in steps to 600 or 800 or even greater. WD-40 is a good lubricant. No need for anything fancy. If you are looking for accuracy, disassemble and have it surfaced by a machinist. This is standard practice on cast iron cylinder heads and blocks. Keep the surface oiled or use furniture polish. Much cheaper.

[@JayWye52]

buy a bottle of Loctite naval jelly,it's a rust remover. then you'll probably need to use some fine carbide wet/dry paper to polish it to near-normal. Ace Hdwr has it for $9 for a 16 ox bottle. it works great on rust.

[@richardfarwell6759]

Our local MakerSpace was the recipient of a water damaged Saw Stop. The original owner gave it to us after his insurance "bought him a new one". He didn't want to trust the electronics. I called Saw Stop and they said that if the saw turns on and runs, then the electronics are fine. We've used the saw for several years now, and saved any number of fingers, and the saw works great.

[@wittworks]

that's great!

[@maximusmagni1]

What happened to the video that descibed how the damage occurred?

[@the_ri0t21]

"NAVY GELLY" WORS!!! IF YOU BRUSH IT ON WITH A THROW AWAY CHEAP BRUSH...LET IT SIT TILL IT BUBBLES AND DARKENS.... RINS IT OFF OR WIPE IT OFF....RECOMEND PRESURED WATER HOSE KNOZEL....THEN LIGHT SAND

[@the_ri0t21]

PROBABLY A 20-30 MIN TO HOSE OFF TO RESURFACING PROSES GOOD LUCK

[@richardnewcomb9471]

I restore Vintage and Antique machinery. I have completed work for Private Owners, Corporations, National Museums and National & State Park Visitor Centers. CAUTION: Using a soft "Red" pad is not recommended. It can ruin the plane (flatness) of the saw table. I recommend you try using Flat (NEW) Carborundum sharpening stones of several grades with Isopar (odorless Kerosene) or Stove Fuel as the grinding Solvent. Use the same action you would as if you were lapping mating metal surfaces to maintain the flatness of the tabletop. You will be able to see this in the original grinding pattern from the manufacturer. As you remove material, the crowns of the pattern will be become obvious. If you remove more from one area as opposed to another, the crowns will be wider (lower) in the areas where more material was removed. All crowns should be the same width when finished. Indicating that you have maintained the original surface plane. NOTE: WD-40 gets sticky and attracts dust & debris over time and can cause "Fisheyes" in final finishes! I use the standard 100/240 Dual-Grit type stones to destroy rust on Cast Iron flat surfaces. You do not need to go crazy with Super-Fine grits - Read on to understand why. NEVER focus too much on one area! If the surface is that bad take the tabletop sections to an automotive machine shop as others have said in the comments. Have them remove as little as possible or risk weakening the sections or mismatching the ability to match planes upon reassembly. As other contributors have mentioned... Do not worry about the "Staining"! It adds character to your now unique saw table making it more identifiable should some low life grab it out of your shop. Want a perfect top - buy a new one! Once you are down to the surface you desire, I highly recommend white paper towels & Isopropyl Alcohol to remove all the Swarf from restoring the surface. After the pores have completely dried out (the alcohol has all evaporated) follow-up using a product named "Fluid Film". IT IS THE BEST corrosion inhibitor, PERIOD. You can get it at LOWE'S. Less is more with this product. Insert the pipette (for more even dispersal) and spray a light pattern from 18-20" over the "Open-Pore" surface. I have found that when you have applied as much as you believe to be the necessary amount - I have applied FOUR TIMES as much as is needed! Waste-Not! Using your fingertips, spread/massage (smear in circular action) the Fluid-Film into the pores. Remove any pooling. (You don't need that much.) Let it sit flat overnight. Fluid Film is Lanolin Based and continually spreads into pores and across surfaces on the molecular level. It is truly magical stuff! It even washes out of clothing easily! Next day using an Isopropyl [dampened] towel (Paper or Cloth) remove as much of the Fluid-Film as you are able, leaving only the pores full of the corrosion inhibitor. Take your time & wipe dry with isopropyl [dampened] towels, any leaching Fluid Film. That is any Fluid Film spreading out of the pores onto the surface to be waxed. NOW - you apply several coats of quality Paste Wax furniture polish. Minwax is the best but is now hard to find. Allow the polish to dry completely between coats. This is where the necessity for the Super-Fine abrasives is not essential - the application of the paste wax needs something to grab onto. Clean metal & a grit profile. You are now finished restoring your rusted saw tables. The lumber material will GLIDE over the Wax Surface as though angels have laid their hands upon the wood! Keep an eye on the condition of the wax treatment and reapply as necessary! This varies with Usage & Exposure. Enjoy your saw table. Best Regards, R. Newcomb, MKCM, USCG Retired

[@dustinhilton5401]

Look up stumpy nubbs video on what to do about rust like this. Essentially sand /buff it clean with naptha and finish with protective layer of paste wax. It works because i was given a jet tablesaw that had a rusted top i followed the steps and it looks brand new! Love your content keep it up and hope this helps get your prized saw out of medical leave and back to use!

[@yankee5886]

I use t-9 on all my machines which are in a damp humid basement. And have not had one rust issue so far. Table saw jointer drill press etc.

[@OFFICIALUND]

T9 has not worked well at all for me (middle Tennessee).

[@michaelfairchild]

To most of us (specially DIYers) who payed for those tools in whole or in installments those tools might be like our children. Seeing your tools get damaged in anyway hurts a little.

[@wittworks]

yeah it hurts. SawStop did NOT give me that saw.

[@ronh9384]

I feel your pain man. When I first saw the damage it felt almost as bad as getting kicked in the groin….

[@cjsawinski]

If the rust is that bad skip the 3m pads and start with real sand paper… wet sand it starting at about 600-800 grit, then hit it with 100-1200 grit, then switch to the 3m pads for final “buffing”… another note, he was cleaning the 3m pads using a piece of plywood… just clean them with water in a utility sink.

[@monteglover4133]

My table saw is 50+ years old the top is gray one of the wing has some pitting filled with epoxy. It had been stored outside had severe rust on the top sanded initially with 220 on a ROS then finer grits, not shiny but slick and smooth works great !

[@ronnielloyd4514]

I was given a table saw that had been sitting in a old storage building and had been rained on for 2-3 years. I did what you did and got a lot of rust off and the saw works as good as a new one.

[@zafarsyed6437]

Hey Drew-- what's the status on the saw now? When is the house move happening?

[@wittworks]

We moved a few weeks ago. I think the saw will be fine. I need to get 220 in my shop to test it. Swimming n boxes currently and hope to have a shop cab build video soon. Then I can tackle the table saw

[@thehickorylanewoodshed2378]

I did a restore of a table saw that I bought used. Sanding with WD 40 worked up to a degree but, once I switched over to a better lubricant I noticed a big difference. Started with 80grit and worked up to 220grit and then gave it a lubricant and wiped it in two or three times before I felt I did all I could. Was pleased with the outcome.

[@OFFICIALUND]

What was the other lubricant that you used?

[@charlesm7132]

5 days ago I discovered I had a water leak that was dripping onto my jointer that I had just purchased. It was not a new jointer but I had been saving and searching for a jointer for a few years now. I was devastated when I found the cast iron bright orange with rust. After watching this video I do have some hope now. Thanks for the quick tutorial and links.

[@SM-vs4ro]

I would have started with Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver. Cover the surface with heavy rags and poured this stuff on then covered with plastic. The next day used those pads. Pits don't matter on the surface. You can always fill them in with red paint to match the saw.

[@bertaboy]

I would have started with the insurance claim. With all of the other damage in the house, he's already covered the deductible.

[@David-hm9ic]

That is heartbreaking. You have my sympathy. Most of the machines in my shop are old cast iron, often purchased in poor cosmetic condition. I bought a jointer that had been stored outdoors. It looked like your saw. Boeshield RustFree has been very good at removing the old rust staining from bare cast iron surfaces. It's fairly noxious to use but it works. Good ventilation is a must but you don't want a breeze blowing across the surface that you're cleaning. Your mechanical process combined with RustFree would very likely give you bright cast iron again. I'm located on the humid Gulf Coast so I treat all of my cast iron machines with Boeshield T-9 once they're clean. I spray it on, let it soak for 24 hours, wipe off the excess and let it completely dry. Allow another day for the T-9 to dry. After all of that the surfaces still get paste wax but rust doesn't develop once the machines are treated. I have a schedule of cleaning the cast iron with mineral spirits every two years and retreating from scratch so I'll never have to do heavy cleaning again.

[@jimbayler4277]

@Wittworks: Have you tried ""Bar Keepers Friend" ?! It has been around forever. They have several different formulations, but the one that had best all-around performance for me, was the old-fashioned powder form. My little needy project was a 55 year old Bridgeport Milling machine that had not been treated well (high-milage) and had been stored even poorer. My project was not as brilliant orange as yours but was deeper in many places. "Bar Keepers Friend" brought my surfaces back pretty respectable. Near shiny matte finish. Certainly, far better than the oils you were using at the beginning of the video. You will need to rinse thoroughly and then coat with turtle wax or similar for long term protection. I'll go back now and finish the rest of your video.

[@jason.b896]

You might consider trying a scrub with Bar Keepers Friend to remove the "staining". It's a powdered cleanser with Oxalic Acid, used a lot in the carbon steel knife world to remove patinas, and it does a really great job in my experience.

[@msk3905]

Yup bar keepers friend does wonders, use it on my pots and they gleam better than new

[@Dusty-Builds]

I had the problem. I bought a Delta saw that had been sitting outside for about a month and the surface looked just like yours. I got a Strip and Clean disk from HF and went to work with my angle grinder and WD40. After about an hours work I had a new shine on the top and put a coat of paste wax on it. Still looks brand new to this day.

[@wittworks]

That’s great! I’ll look into the disk!

[@gunslinger1108]

When we restored our older delta saw we used razor blades to scrap the rust away, use almost no pressure holding the blade at a 45 degree. Lube the surface with wd40.

[@jonwoodworker]

I can't believe you waisted your time, when your insurance would have paid for it. And you would have had the perfect opportunity to get a Delta, Powermatic or an old Craftsman. Our shop bought two Sawstop's and would throw them in the garbage if we could.

[@charitiekbyrd1]

Oh my wow!!! Yes my heart sank a bit for you. My wife's grandfather passed away about 5 months ago and he has a saw stop. I mention this because we have talked to her grandma and when she is ready to let go of it I will be the one to get it. If I have something like that happen to it I would probably cry because it would mean so much to me for the simple fact that it belonged to my wife's grandpa. I'm glad you were able to salvage it almost back to the previous condition and I really like and appreciate your videos. They help people like me that are new to woodworking and I can't wait to learn more from people like you. Thank you and Happy Building 😁

[@TKC_]

I’ve restored old tools and always they come covered in rust. My favorite thing to do before finishing with scotch brite and oil similar to what you did is soak it in evaporust. For big surfaces soak paper towels lay them out flat then cover with Saran Wrap to prevent evaporation and wait. A few rounds of this does wonders.

[@bobdriggers6111]

How long did it take for the saw to get so rusted?

[@stevewitt5559]

He was out of town for a few days, that is what he came home to.

[@anthonypalazzolo6181]

Well the best way for this . Me been a spray painter and worked on metal what you should do is sand with a sander p 100 p 180 p240 then with a scotch brite pad and a glove you get a liquid solution called dioxidene its phosgoric acid you go over it thoroughly and live it for 10 minute and repeat the procedure with the dioxidene. Then you neutralise it with in a bucked with water and methylated spirit you wipe on then quickly wipe off and the watch it shine but this type of method is for a experience person

[@scorpiorysing]

I'd sand it more aggressively until the stains come out. You can always sand it back w/finer grit to get back to a smoother finish/look.

[@bloho_design]

Why bother?

[@larswilms8275]

​@@bloho_design because it bothers the OP.

[@donwight5806]

I am so sorry. I understand your heart wrenching fear. I went through two basement floods with my 1967 craftsman table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw and drill press. They all survived. But the anxiety the fear then frustration and anger was unparalleled. I know it will be alright. Every test makes us stronger. I am sorry and know that we have your back.

[@lv_woodturner3899]

Wow, I do feel your agony. I would also have felt devastated. A month or so ago I laid a kiln dried 2x4 over my table saw. I should have laid this over the melamine extension, but thought kiln dried would not be a problem. A week or so later I was shocked at the rust under the 2x4. This was just high humidity not the standing water from your devastating water leak. A lesson learned. My rust and stains were not so deep. Sadly you may need a re-grinding to remove all the stains. Dave.

[@DC-uo5hy]

I use rubbing compoundb on new steel to smooth it and remove stains, using a disc polish pad. For heavy stains Wet sand paper 180 or 220 wet a 8:10 nd dry with mineral spirits then 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500. Rub down with concrete rust remover . .. The reust remover works on other parts befor sanding too. For really bad areas use phosphoric acid, "Ospho, or Naval jelly. The fine w&d paper removes just tiny amounts, so no distortions worth concern.

[@barnie1956]

Wow, I understand your pain. A few years ago, I laid pressure treated wood on the saw only for a few hours. Well, two days later, I put the wood where I should have put it if I wasn't in a hurry. I may try your fix. A lesson learned.

[@DennisMathias]

Did you get any insurance compensation? Did you mention that and I missed it?

[@mightygrom]

I feel your pain... my 3 week old f150 hybrid was rear-ended by a distracted driver (she was going about 40 mph faster than I when she hit me)... fortunately nobody was hurt, but my truck is still at the shop over a month later, and they still haven't been able to start the repairs... there is a good chance that the frame will need to be replaced... I hope I will get it back before this winter.

[@wittworks]

Oh wow. That’s the worst. Glad you’re ok.

[@bauerbach1]

happened to my (much cheaper) saw. unfortunately I suspect with my sanding out the top, I may have unleveled the surface. Or it unleveled itself and I happened to notice after. Just an ever so slight convex curve. perhaps because I went more aggressive at the front and back edge where the rust was worse. check to be sure youre still flat.

[@EPaulIII]

I have an AC failure in my shop that I am presently dealing with. I am in the deep south, near the Gulf Coast so heat and humidity is a major concern. I am so glad my table saw has an aluminum top. So far the other machines are handling it OK. I am keeping a coat of oil on them.

[@jetvector8410]

Sorry to see this happen to you. I had this happen to my first table saw. Once I got it cleaned I ended up finishing it with Cerakote. 5 years of sweat and glue later and not single spec of rust. So now I Cerakote all my tools before I ever setup them up. Worth every penny.

[@bobd5119]

Which Cerakote version do you use?

[@jetvector8410]

@@bobd5119 The air dry series. I think it was the C-series line. It is not as durable as the bake on finishes, but even where it scratches off it still did not rust. Whatever additive for corrosion protection they put in it is top notch. It is also very slick. I only waxed my saw maybe once a year.

[@bobweiram6321]

I wouldn't be worried at all if it happened to my machines. Removing rust is easy if you understand it's chemistry. I would have applied a mild acid mixed with a thickener, such as corn starch, on the surface. Leave it for a couple of hours and then sand the surface progressively from 220 down to 400 and a final buff and polish. The staining is actually rust trapped in the grit pattern and water droplets. You're not getting a deep enough cut into the metal reach remove it. You'll always get staining unless it's polished with a buffing pad.

[@username14219]

I lived on a tropical island and ran a wood shop. Rust was always an issue just because of humidity on a regular basis but we had a typhoon come through once and damaged the cast iron on EVERYTHING. We sanded with 120 grit, then up the stages to 400, and then used paste wax to give a smooth finish so we could run wood smoothly across the surface. Everything went back to being operational and we just ensured the next time a typhoon came through to cover everything in plastic.

[@tommegan6500]

I had a fire in my boat shop 6 years ago. Among the machines I lost was a cast-base 10” Delta tilty tablesaw. Now I’m starting to move into a new shop, and I wanted to set up a router table on my 12” Walker- Turner tablesaw. I began to think about what to use for the actual table, and I thought about that old saw. It had been sitting outside the whole time, and the pot metal quadrants had melted in the fire, I didn’t have much hope for it. When I brought it into the shop though, a straight edge showed it to be un-warped, so I went after the surface with scrapers, then 3M pads. It cleaned up beautifully, actually a better surface than the old W-T saw it’s bolted to! A fire, then 6 years in the elements, and now perfect - I don’t think your saw should be much of a problem.

[@wittworks]

Oh wow.

[@wk7060]

You can rinse the Scotchbrite pad out with water, blow it out with compressed air and will clear out the rust so you can start over. T9 Rust remover and T9 Boeshield is best. I get sick when I see 1 speck of rust on my table saw. I know how you feel.

[@heyallenify]

I will say, I didn't know of that company offered kit, but did something very similar with WD-40 and maroon scotch bright pads on my first table saw. I never got it all the way to a bright "new" cast iron color, but it did come back to an even darker grey, and worked fine for years. For the worst areas, I used a gasket scraper that uses a spring steel card as a scraping edge. This got some rust off, as well as the paint stains that were left by some prior owner using it as a painting bench. I did finish mine with BoeShield T-9 as a protective layer afterward. All that said, great work there, and best wishes with your shop recovery.

[@MMWoodworking]

Pro-tip folks... do not use the green Simple Green, and leave it on for more than a few seconds, because it leaves similar staining... ask me how I know. I need to get some of this reconditioning oil. If you end up having to replace the arbor block with the microchip, I'd love a video. I had to do it, but I found an engineer to do it with me, and I didn't get to film it because he was moving so fast. It was a wild process, and the SS instructions suck. Best of luck if you have to do it... keep track of the parts and label them!

[@wittworks]

I’m hoping I don’t have to swap it out. But that water makes me nervous.

[@williamreinhard]

I purchased a property with some farm equipment included in the sale. Part of the equipment is a Sawstop he had barely used. My heart broke when I found that it spent the winter in an unsheltered old garage completely rusted on top. Hope I have as much luck saving it as you did. I would honestly be thrilled if it gets even close to looking this good again.

[@N1ghtF1re]

I had my table saw in a storage unit for ~7 years, when I moved and had a shop again, I pulled it out and it was caked in rust. The place I was storing it had a rodent issue, most of the stuff I had there had to be thrown out. I used WD40 and a maroon pad, then I used Naval jelly. The naval jelly pulled all of the rust out of the pits.

[@moikechan]

Cast iron surface appearance and precision flatness can be restored to better than new with a little elbow grease. Look up "lapping granite surface plate". You can use the wings on one another and then on the main table. It's hard to mess up and will be better than factory when you're done.

[@Cpt_Adama]

Evaporust is your friend. you may have to scrape it to remove the stains.

[@BigBenAdv]

Artificial white vinegar (acetic acid) is the same as rust removal sprays and you could use it to remove most of the rust by soaking and laying paper towels on the surfaces for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping down. It's also much cheaper when sold in larger containers for commercial kitchens (gallon or larger). Also useful for descaling glass containers or cleaning limescale from shower screens.

[@StsFiveOneLima]

Oh I feel this pain. I left pressure treated five-quarter deck boards laying across my table saw for about a month while I traveled, and, where they were in contact, same result. I've got the saw back to working order, but need to put some more time in to it.

[@petemclinc]

I would do a cold blue on it and never worry about the appearance again...

[@StsFiveOneLima]

Just an FYI on this: The pitting on my own table saw surface is pretty deep. I am considering taking the wings and center to a local shop that has a surface grinder. I'll let you know how that goes, if I do it. My guess is that surface grinding can easily take a couple thousandths off each piece, and then with a combination of sandpaper and honing compound I can polish it up myself.

[@FatherOfTheParty]

You said you were surprised that in only a couple days this happened. I milled up some walnut (which I thought was dry) and set a couple pieces on my saw over night and came back to rust (not quite as bad as you had) that took hours to get off. Happens surprisingly fast.

[@wittworks]

Oh wow.

[@frankdesign8723]

Similar thing happened to me on my Delta. I started sanding with 220 and worked it up to 4000 before switching to a polishing pad with polishing compound. Then finished with some carpenters wax and it was good as new

[@southerncreativestudio]

Don't know if it's been suggested but the Boeshield Rust Free is a rust miracle worker.

[@briannelson4122]

I have an old Craftsman table saw that I got in pieces and had to refurbish. It was in extremely rough shape. A friend gave it to me during Covid lockdown and it was more therapeutic than necessity to rebuild it. The top was in as bad of shape as yours, and since it didn't cost me anything I used sandpaper and WD-40. I started with 100 and really got most everything done with that. I went up to 800 grit wet & dry with WD and other than the fact that these tops weren't milled that great to begin with (lots of milling marks) it came out great! For about 6 months after I had a wood block with 800 grit on it and would just block it out before waxing it. Iknow you probably wont want to be as aggressive , but it worked out just fine for me

[@davidbenson5451]

Why not use a chemical method to remove the rust. Naval jelly or Ospho or even vinegar would remove the rust or convert it to a stable tightly adhered layer on the surface. You could also remove the top and have a plating shop strip the rust electrochemically in one of their cleaning tanks.

[@philvale5724]

Hi 👋 WittWorks , I am so sorry to hear 👂 you got problems with water damage, back in the 1979/8 I had just moved my work shop to a farm, I was renting a old cowshed, I had had to put plastic sheeting as a roof. Space, as there were small holes in the roof where drips used to come through onto my tools and equipment., and used to suffer very badly and condensation, The very kind farmer, purchased a very old Planer jointer from a auction sale , I believe the machine might have been outside for a long time, and they asked me was it worth getting when I said yes , they said that’s good cause it’s outside. I think they bought it more as scrap value than anything else., what is six weeks down the line, it looks like brand-new,, I was living in the UK at the time, the machine was made by a firm called Dominion, which I think was part of Watkin, which was up north, I contacted them about the table bed , told me if I could bring the tables up to there machine shop they could resurface it for me, so between landlords, son and myself, we stripped down the machine and took the tables to the place up north, where they resurfaced the beds of the tables , this cost me approximately £200 and it took them virtually a day, I’ve never seen a machine like this before they used to resurface the beds. All the tables it was huge, but after a few weeks work of repainting and doing some electrical work the jointer planer thickness, look like new, Anyway, after explaining my problem, you might be able to find somebody that can resurface the tops of your tablesaw to bring it back, looking like new, , I have since found out that old cast iron is a lot better made than what the new stuff they use nowadays, there is a curing process for when they make cast-iron table beds, which I believe on very good stuff can take up to 6 months to a year to cure, depending on the size of it, and then the cast iron is there in machine it’s finished size and polished, Good luck with the repairs and the renovation of your tools and machinery. I hope you can get some compensation from the insurance company. Hopefully see you back in the workshop soon., Phil from the moulin France,

[@KnifeHandWoodDesign]

I bought a jet tablesaw off market place and the cast iron looked like that. I used sandpaper on my random orbital sander. started at 80 and worked my way all the way up to 400. the top is nice and smooth and no issues with it.

[@parzival9494]

Sorry that happened Drew. How did you get into the miter slots to clean those out?

[@wittworks]

thank you. I used small pieces of maroon pad by hand

[@therebelrobot4691]

Just saw this. You should chemically neutralize the rust with a thin layer of evaporust as the second to last last coat. Let it sit for ten to thirty minutes. On the very last cleaning, use the reconditioning oil to sand to desired level (ex: 400 up to 4000). Evaporust will neutralize rust in pours to preven further pitting. Oil puts a layer of protection.

[@audhen1]

for those high spots 5:31 you might try iron spot/rust cleaner/rim cleaner from car washing shops

[@kennethwallace5168]

I cover everything with the tool covers. I have a cold garage and large temperature swings...no rush problems. In your case, the water would have run off.

[@ayellowbeard]

I have a similar (ongoing) issue with my Sawstop in that my shop didn't have heat and is drafty as a barn (which is why we call it "the barn"). It's first year in residence I put a tarp over the saw hoping condensation wouldn't get to it but by spring it was a mess. I resurfaced it with a combination of PB Blaster an array of sandpaper grits, brown pads, and steel wool which got most of the rust out. Last fall I put a small space heater and two fans to circulate the air. I also got a magnetic cover for the table and monitored the temps with a remote thermometer and kept the barn just above freezing. It was costly in heating bills but it (mostly) worked and I had just a couple of small oxidation spots on the table this last spring. I am hoping to mostly finish the barn by end of next summer which include insulation and heating so I don't have to go through a spring resurfacing of the saw every year. I've been using paste wax and Boeshield to coat the table but am intrigued by the cabon coat.

[@bitp1mp]

Why not use Evaporust or a vinegar/water mix?

[@tomphillips2473]

Good save.... I didnt see a follow up - did it end up working after you dried it out?

[@morefiction3264]

Vinegar? and course sandpaper followed by finer and finer sandpaper? I know if I saw a plane in that condition, I'd toss it in a bucket of vinegar for 24 hours then use sandpaper to reflatten the sole.

[@JohnOlejar]

Did you consider taking the table tops to a local machine shop and have them remilled?

[@spitter7657]

I have used machinist stones and wd40 on cast iron tables of CNC machines. This way it prevents you from "digging a hole". While it doesnt get all of the staining it gets it clean quickly and leaves a smooth finish. I also got a bit of rust on my sawstop, not the extent of yours but that is what I used.

[@mrmerkin6203]

I've restored many old (decades) cast iron tables ... table saw, jointer, horizontal saw, band saws, etc .... and simply start with 80 grit pads. Seems to work fine for me and not much you can't get out. So, for whatever that's worth. Good luck!

[@choprpilot76]

I put Carbon Method on my Saw Stop when I bought it last June. I swear by that stuff. I live in hot and humid southeastern Alabama and my TS is still rust free. Apply it properly per the manufacturer’s instructions and it’ll serve you well.

[@garryr]

Commenting at the comment requested time. I purchased a 6" jointer that was rusted from an auction and , yes it took some time and some elbow grease, but I cleaned up quite nicely with just penetrating oil and work. Yes there is some staining in places but works just the same. So I say the saw will clean up and be perfectly usable (assuming the electrics are still good) but you may see some blemished that trigger you or other people. If your unhappy with the results I will gladly take it of your hands.

[@alowishusdavander7804]

Not trying to make light of the damage or rust - I know if I came out and saw my bike covered in rust & poop from some imaginary sewage line rupture - but once you get the internals working and are able to remove the rust so materials will move or glide as before - isn't it only a cosmetic issue then? Does the damage to the table top in some how interfere with its operation? Again I know - I'd hate my bike having rust pits or marks, stains, etc, but it still runs. Anyhoo just curious, thx!

[@GeoFry3]

Not ruined. Use a rust remover on it and sand it down with medium or course steel wool. After you get the rust off, rub it down with a fine steel wool, clean it real good, and then put a good coat of a hard wax on it. Rust is the reality of any tool made of cast iron. Keep it dry and keep it sealed or waxed.

[@jimsview4841]

Saw not ruined at all. If anything you could well do harm attacking it with that disk sander. Granted it would be dissappointing to see your new baby looking so blemished but that staining isn't going to be anything other than visual. Cast iron doesn't rust away in flakes like steel does. An acidic rust dissolver would've instantly removed the staining if done before going near it with oil. Don't mean to sound harsh but don't sand machined surfaces if you want them to remain accurate. If you feel you have to to remove a burr or the like from a deep scratch or dent use an equally flat metal backing plate and wet and dry with plenty of oil and only enough to remove any raised points. If you have a friend who's a machinist get him to come over with a straight edge and feeler guages to help you get the sections aligned again. It's the accuracy that matters, not the appearance. Machinist with 40 yrs experience here.

[@symposes]

If you can salvage the saw, I say get some kind of design applied to the surface of the table. Like covering a scar with a tattoo kind of thing. Just a thought. maybe you can resurface, do some kind of tool black coating and then re-coat it and once you wax the top with some paste wax to get the friction back down, etc....

[@lazygardens]

If this ever happens to you ... the first thing to do is save the electronics! Remove the motors and actuators. Open them up, rinse them in distilled water, then in a 50-50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water and dry them with a blow dryer. Your table top can wait.

[@Gazman299]

I'm in to the video about eight minutes, so please forgive me if you tried this eventually. How about using wet sandpaper for metal? Start with a four hundred grit and increase from there. It works on older model cars, but they're not made out of cast iron which is basically pot metal, so I don't know if I'm on to something, or not. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.

[@WinterXI]

assuming you dont want to use fine grit sandpaper as it'll possibly unevenly grind off the metal?

[@WinterXI]

oops didnt want the full video, my bad.

[@RyanWattersRyanWatters]

So sorry you had to go through this tedium, brother. But from the moment I saw the thumbnail, I knew it was going to turn out okay. It’s amazing what a lot of elbow grease can do to restore cast iron suffering from topical rust. I echo what others have said in that I’m glad you still have a badass table saw and hope your insurance is good to you. Positive vibes from Texas.

[@patrickstone9229]

Same thing happened to me, same saw and everything, never got the stain out, but I put deep gouges in it with some pocket screws, so the stains don't bother me anymore😅

[@wittworks]

THROWING THE KREG JIG AWAY RIGHT NOW

[@zachpel1923]

Try boesheild t-9, I got a drill press abused and soaked in a garage from 1960 to shine

[@guybowers9094]

This is beyond difficult to see, I feel your pain for sure. I was transitioning to my shop built into my existing garage and had moved some equipment over to it. However, work was busy, and it took time before i could get back to the shop build. and we got several days of fog, and it got my stuff hard.

[@davidmiller4594]

I've done this countless time restoring old iron. First thing to do is to stabilize the rust. Vinegar would be the best start. Once it's all done, and this goes especially for new machines, do a maintenance of paste wax to protect the surface.

[@Homerbub]

That’s a bummer! I’ve used Naval Jelly to remove rust before. It works really good, and I think you can get it at Lowes.

[@lucasstarbuck6797]

I’ve had this happen. I used a wide chisel for the proud spots and steel wool to make it shine. My saw, however, is far from new.

[@dmitribohanon3106]

Dude the thumbnail alone made me cry, hope everything works itself out brother been watching you for a while now and your humility and honesty has always been refreshing

[@wittworks]

I may have cried. thank you 🙂

[@matthewgaylen2827]

what does sanding wet rust do to the inneards of the sander?

[@The-Fat-Kid]

I have a waterfront home in North Carolina. Rust is a constant battle on all my tools. With an air conditioned garage condensation forms immediately when ever I open the door. Wax helps very little and leaving WD40 on the surfaces makes it worse. I now keep all tools covered with ether a custom cover or just a towel laid over. CorrosionX works best but 30 weight works well. Before using I have to degrease and wax. Hand tools have to be kept in drawers or cabinets.

[@nmurphy7281]

So sorry this happened to you. I just reorganized my shop a couple weeks ago to avoid water pipes in my house. Had a slow drip from a pipe that ran just to the side of my cnc machine, if it was 6 inches to the left of where it lives would have been destroyed. Luckily I’m in an unfinished basement so I can see where everything runs.

[@johnhaller5851]

My mom had a water leak while not home, and it traveled through furnace ducts to find its way to the basement. Surprisingly, the leak was over a garage which didn't have a basement under it, but the ducts went through the garage to the ceiling of the basement, which is how the basement got water damage. Three floors were damaged. $60,000 of damage, and 3 roll-off dumpsters. I live in a ranch, and the only water hazard is a water heater in the garage, and it has a pan piped outside if it doesn't leak with a spray outside the pan. But, if a storm damaged my roof, that could also cause damage until I could get a blue tarp up.

[@Andyloveswood]

After all that sanding, have you assessed the top for flatness?

[@whatever_12]

I wonder what would be the best way to prevent this? Any aftermarket product someone could apply etc..?

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

Have you considered surface conditioning tool? It's pretty good at removing stuff above metal surface, paint, rust, e.g. I am using it to get rust and stain off of my Hammer combo machine. Rust remover may be able to remove some staining. Then remove it with solvent of your choice, and apply your favorite coating no top.

[@MrSmersh1]

Vinegar cleans rust very well