this was brand new. Broke my heart!

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[@wittworks]

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[@eldie3d]

So you saying that this conditioning oil and your hand rubbing was able to remove a raised piece of rusted iron that was a little proud of the rest of the table, and WD-40 with a DA orbital sander couldn't remove it or didn't remove it? What's in that oil??? Or is your hand job a lot better than your mechanical sander??? It's either the oil removing iron that WD-40 couldn't remove, or your hand motion removed iron that your DA couldn't remove??? Or is it just the conditioning oil teamed up with your hand that could actually dissolve iron that WD-40 and a dual action orbital sander couldn't remove???

[@lourias]

Could have used a slightly more aggressive pad, sand paper, ot whatever you use.

[@wittworks]

@@eldie3d I honestly am not sure. Was perplexed by it. Could be that I let the oil soak on it longer?

[@DefiantOrderCA]

Easy fix, use Chemical guys “water spot remover” it’s a orange liquid that breaks down the Ph of the iron oxide. It will remove all the stains like it was never there. Been through this myself, it was a godsend. Also works on car glass water spots btw. It’s like a heavy duty CLR, but better. Also may sound crazy but rather then a tool wax, I would use the wax off baby bell cheese to wax my tool surfaces, works a charm.

[@wengel21]

Just setup my sawstop and wanted to do the carbon coat, i placed the order but your code didnt work for the 10% off :-/

[@ADHDbuilt]

Chef here. We clean the hot plates , and to get the surface looking like new, use some lemon juice. The acid will brighten up the surface almost instantly, then clean off and oil.

[@wittworks]

oh wow.

[@dangkolache]

I would genuinely be shattered if I walked into my shop to see this. When I saw your community post I thought there's no way it could be as bad as he's making it out to be, but damn man, I feel for you. I'm sure you'll get this a billion times but would insurance have covered replacement parts?

[@wittworks]

Still waiting to hear back. 🤞

[@hrodwulf172]

Tbh if the motor housing is holding water I think you would just call the whole thing FUBAR, it's probably not worth the work/risk of failure assuming he has the right insurance and most of a replacement is covered.

[@vhoward1122]

Only if he had a rider on his homeowners insurance that also covered the contents of the home for water damage.

[@dopplex]

@@vhoward1122 Note that it can also depend on the source of the water damage, and all of this is highly dependent on the fine print of the policy. Ie, my homeowners covers a burst pipe, but doesn't cover a failed sump pump (And boy do I wish I'd known that before my sump pump failed...)

[@bigredgreg1]

My experience suggests that claims such as this, when the insurance company pays you, it’s really just a loan payed back under the guise of rate increases. Sometimes it’s better to eat the loss rather than forcing the insurance claim.

[@jlippencott1]

The “staining” is actually microscopic rust pitting. The very last thing you want to do is sanding to attempt to remove it. Sanding will remove material from the flatness of the surface and make things worse. That last bit of staining will cause no harm except for the cosmetic appearance.

[@ChrisHornberger]

Bingo! Don't turn it into a potato chip for the sake of some ideal of aesthetics.

[@coreystine1001]

if you ever have to do anything like this again may i suggest covering the cast in paper towels and soaking them in your solution of choice. wd40 pb blaster evaporust or that stuff from carbon coat. let the towels sit for a half hr or so. most of my tools are second hand and ive used this method to restore quite a few cast tops really helps.

[@vikassm]

Cost-Effective, Long lasting restoration for rusty Cars/Old machinery: 1. Use Mild Acetic or Citric acid solution to dissolve the rust first. It is extremely effective. Wire-brush. 2. Then go in with a hydrocarbon based solvent (WD40), Or just plain old 50-50 Kerosene+Diesel. (Wire-Brush and Sanding) 2.5. Use Galvanising Zinc spray for everything other than machined surfaces. 3. Spray finish everything with Polyurethane or acrylic clear-coat. (Wax/Polish/Buff optional) BAM. Rust proofed for 25 years.

[@miki09876]

Agreed or naval jelly or evapo-rust.

[@stgsux]

yeah soak in paper towels and maybe plastic wrap on top to prevent the paper towels drying out for a longer soak. evaporust is pretty amazing

[@nwa2102]

It looks good. I don't know if it matters if it's a couple thou out, but are you worried about how flat it is? If there is a machine shop with a surface grinder in your area you can probably get them to grind the surface flat again. It might also clear off more of the staining

[@RyanWattersRyanWatters]

So sorry you had to go through this tedium, brother. But from the moment I saw the thumbnail, I knew it was going to turn out okay. It’s amazing what a lot of elbow grease can do to restore cast iron suffering from topical rust. I echo what others have said in that I’m glad you still have a badass table saw and hope your insurance is good to you. Positive vibes from Texas.

[@michaelfairchild]

To most of us (specially DIYers) who payed for those tools in whole or in installments those tools might be like our children. Seeing your tools get damaged in anyway hurts a little.

[@wittworks]

yeah it hurts. SawStop did NOT give me that saw.

[@ronh9384]

I feel your pain man. When I first saw the damage it felt almost as bad as getting kicked in the groin….

[@jason.b896]

You might consider trying a scrub with Bar Keepers Friend to remove the "staining". It's a powdered cleanser with Oxalic Acid, used a lot in the carbon steel knife world to remove patinas, and it does a really great job in my experience.

[@msk3905]

Yup bar keepers friend does wonders, use it on my pots and they gleam better than new

[@thehickorylanewoodshed2378]

I did a restore of a table saw that I bought used. Sanding with WD 40 worked up to a degree but, once I switched over to a better lubricant I noticed a big difference. Started with 80grit and worked up to 220grit and then gave it a lubricant and wiped it in two or three times before I felt I did all I could. Was pleased with the outcome.

[@scorpiorysing]

I'd sand it more aggressively until the stains come out. You can always sand it back w/finer grit to get back to a smoother finish/look.

[@bloho_design]

Why bother?

[@larswilms8275]

​@@bloho_design because it bothers the OP.

[@charitiekbyrd1]

Oh my wow!!! Yes my heart sank a bit for you. My wife's grandfather passed away about 5 months ago and he has a saw stop. I mention this because we have talked to her grandma and when she is ready to let go of it I will be the one to get it. If I have something like that happen to it I would probably cry because it would mean so much to me for the simple fact that it belonged to my wife's grandpa. I'm glad you were able to salvage it almost back to the previous condition and I really like and appreciate your videos. They help people like me that are new to woodworking and I can't wait to learn more from people like you. Thank you and Happy Building 😁

[@ronnielloyd4514]

I was given a table saw that had been sitting in a old storage building and had been rained on for 2-3 years. I did what you did and got a lot of rust off and the saw works as good as a new one.

[@lv_woodturner3899]

Wow, I do feel your agony. I would also have felt devastated. A month or so ago I laid a kiln dried 2x4 over my table saw. I should have laid this over the melamine extension, but thought kiln dried would not be a problem. A week or so later I was shocked at the rust under the 2x4. This was just high humidity not the standing water from your devastating water leak. A lesson learned. My rust and stains were not so deep. Sadly you may need a re-grinding to remove all the stains. Dave.

[@charlesm7132]

5 days ago I discovered I had a water leak that was dripping onto my jointer that I had just purchased. It was not a new jointer but I had been saving and searching for a jointer for a few years now. I was devastated when I found the cast iron bright orange with rust. After watching this video I do have some hope now. Thanks for the quick tutorial and links.

[@dmitribohanon3106]

Dude the thumbnail alone made me cry, hope everything works itself out brother been watching you for a while now and your humility and honesty has always been refreshing

[@wittworks]

I may have cried. thank you 🙂

[@chrisp.76]

So sorry for you having to go through this! Hope you never have anything like this happen again. May the shop gods be with you!😢

[@monteglover4133]

My table saw is 50+ years old the top is gray one of the wing has some pitting filled with epoxy. It had been stored outside had severe rust on the top sanded initially with 220 on a ROS then finer grits, not shiny but slick and smooth works great !

[@SM-vs4ro]

I would have started with Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver. Cover the surface with heavy rags and poured this stuff on then covered with plastic. The next day used those pads. Pits don't matter on the surface. You can always fill them in with red paint to match the saw.

[@bertaboy]

I would have started with the insurance claim. With all of the other damage in the house, he's already covered the deductible.

[@howler5000]

Ah man. That hurts! Great job on all your hard work restoring your saw and I wish you the best fighting the insurance company.

[@keno101]

Oh, man. So sorry this happened to you. Glad you were able to restore it as well as you did. It looks great. Nice job! Good luck on the rest of it.

[@Icantball67]

Oh man I’m sorry this happened to you and the family. It’s not just the saw that was damaged obviously, but I can see why this might have been the focal point of the damage caused to you. I feel like cleaning the top is a little bit therapeutic for you as well as just an attempt to salvage something. Prayers that you heal from this wound! 🙏

[@richardfarwell6759]

Our local MakerSpace was the recipient of a water damaged Saw Stop. The original owner gave it to us after his insurance "bought him a new one". He didn't want to trust the electronics. I called Saw Stop and they said that if the saw turns on and runs, then the electronics are fine. We've used the saw for several years now, and saved any number of fingers, and the saw works great.

[@wittworks]

that's great!

[@jcuprisi]

It’s cast iron, it’s flat. Use a flat board with 100 grit automotive grade wet or dry sandpaper. Work your way in steps to 600 or 800 or even greater. WD-40 is a good lubricant. No need for anything fancy. If you are looking for accuracy, disassemble and have it surfaced by a machinist. This is standard practice on cast iron cylinder heads and blocks. Keep the surface oiled or use furniture polish. Much cheaper.

[@Benster91]

Put it this way you did a awesome job trying to restore the finish but as long as equipment performs as it should thats a blessing 🙌 .

[@barnie1956]

Wow, I understand your pain. A few years ago, I laid pressure treated wood on the saw only for a few hours. Well, two days later, I put the wood where I should have put it if I wasn't in a hurry. I may try your fix. A lesson learned.

[@thomasalison6188]

Wow, that really sucks, sorry for your loss in the shop! Hope you are able to get it put back together W/O too much pain!

[@Adierit]

Why does he think water dripping on that matters any though? It's surface rust on a piece that literally doesn't matter. The entire thing could be rusted and as long as the saw motor still turned it wouldn't matter. Granted, he must not use that shop much for it to rust that much.

[@TKC_]

I’ve restored old tools and always they come covered in rust. My favorite thing to do before finishing with scotch brite and oil similar to what you did is soak it in evaporust. For big surfaces soak paper towels lay them out flat then cover with Saran Wrap to prevent evaporation and wait. A few rounds of this does wonders.

[@donwight5806]

I am so sorry. I understand your heart wrenching fear. I went through two basement floods with my 1967 craftsman table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw and drill press. They all survived. But the anxiety the fear then frustration and anger was unparalleled. I know it will be alright. Every test makes us stronger. I am sorry and know that we have your back.

[@BustedKnuckleWoodworks]

Hope your insurance company comes through for you dude 🤞

[@wittworks]

still ghosting me

[@BustedKnuckleWoodworks]

@@wittworks well their HQ is right down the street from you. March in there and demand to speak to the CEO 😆

[@michaelgartner6663]

Insurance companies are not in the business of paying. It’s all champagne and roses when they’re selling you your policy. I hope you have a happy ending.

[@kennethkolman7367]

I used a wet dry sandpaper with WD-40 paint thinner to clean up used car wax for final cover turned out almost good as new It was 1000 grit

[@codarussell7925]

I have that wood extension table in storage if you need one.

[@michaelcummings2032]

So sorry that that happened. Glad you could salvage what you did.

[@GyWO10]

Wow! That’s crazy & very sad to see what happened to your saw & shop! Glad you had the carbon method to fix the saw. Hope you’re back up in business soon in your shop! 🙏🏽👊🏽

[@frankrodriguez6424]

How did u clean the tracks? I have similar issue on my Delta T1, not nearly as bad but it’s hard to get into tracks

[@boreduser1583]

Plain white vinegar removes rust fairly well. Can be used in the first steps to remove the bulk of rust then dry and oil after

[@MMWoodworking]

Pro-tip folks... do not use the green Simple Green, and leave it on for more than a few seconds, because it leaves similar staining... ask me how I know. I need to get some of this reconditioning oil. If you end up having to replace the arbor block with the microchip, I'd love a video. I had to do it, but I found an engineer to do it with me, and I didn't get to film it because he was moving so fast. It was a wild process, and the SS instructions suck. Best of luck if you have to do it... keep track of the parts and label them!

[@wittworks]

I’m hoping I don’t have to swap it out. But that water makes me nervous.

[@williamreinhard]

I purchased a property with some farm equipment included in the sale. Part of the equipment is a Sawstop he had barely used. My heart broke when I found that it spent the winter in an unsheltered old garage completely rusted on top. Hope I have as much luck saving it as you did. I would honestly be thrilled if it gets even close to looking this good again.

[@tomasjosefvela1]

Lucky it took me over 9 min to figure out how to get to the comments on my phone (I usually watch KZbin on my desktop or laptop) so as much as I can’t wait to see the next video I will add you to My list of people that I will attempt to send some good vibes as a thank you for sharing your creativity and wit. And HOLY WOW THATS AMAZING!!!!

[@EPaulIII]

I have an AC failure in my shop that I am presently dealing with. I am in the deep south, near the Gulf Coast so heat and humidity is a major concern. I am so glad my table saw has an aluminum top. So far the other machines are handling it OK. I am keeping a coat of oil on them.

[@jetvector8410]

Sorry to see this happen to you. I had this happen to my first table saw. Once I got it cleaned I ended up finishing it with Cerakote. 5 years of sweat and glue later and not single spec of rust. So now I Cerakote all my tools before I ever setup them up. Worth every penny.

[@bobd5119]

Which Cerakote version do you use?

[@jetvector8410]

@@bobd5119 The air dry series. I think it was the C-series line. It is not as durable as the bake on finishes, but even where it scratches off it still did not rust. Whatever additive for corrosion protection they put in it is top notch. It is also very slick. I only waxed my saw maybe once a year.

[@meangreen7389]

Great vid especially with your style of narration. I was rooting for you the whole time. Your persistence paid off. Thank you for sharing.

[@rickcimino743]

I congratulate you on your patience. If that happened to me I would jump right to like 100 or 80 grit metal working paper and get down to bare metal. Your approach was obviously better.....you demonstrated great patience.

[@LRN2DIY]

As it turns out, I bought almost the same SawStop used recently (5 hp 220v) but didn’t have room in my shop for it since I’m currently converting my garage into a shop. I carefully wrapped up the SawStop with tarps, tied it down and, sadly, had to leave it outside on a pallet. The winds went wild and somehow blew the tarp off in a rainstorm and it rusted pretty quickly. I still don’t have room to work on it so I’ll have to do so when the shop is finished. Looks like I’ll be going through a similar process on mine before too long. I hope it comes out half as nice as yours!

[@wittworks]

Oh wow! Looking forward to seeing what you can do. I did find the sawstop sells the tops so you can replace them….for $800!!! Also, your hammer reinvented thumbnail is one of my fav on KZbin. Brilliant.

[@LRN2DIY]

@@wittworks Nice! I’ll see how well I’m able to clean it up but it may come to that. Thanks for the video!

[@williamreinhard]

@@wittworks Glad to know I can by a new top if I need to. Mine is even more rusted than yours, I really don't know if I can save it but I'll definitely try.

[@DustyFixes]

I had the problem. I bought a Delta saw that had been sitting outside for about a month and the surface looked just like yours. I got a Strip and Clean disk from HF and went to work with my angle grinder and WD40. After about an hours work I had a new shine on the top and put a coat of paste wax on it. Still looks brand new to this day.

[@wittworks]

That’s great! I’ll look into the disk!

[@gunslinger1108]

When we restored our older delta saw we used razor blades to scrap the rust away, use almost no pressure holding the blade at a 45 degree. Lube the surface with wd40.

[@nmurphy7281]

So sorry this happened to you. I just reorganized my shop a couple weeks ago to avoid water pipes in my house. Had a slow drip from a pipe that ran just to the side of my cnc machine, if it was 6 inches to the left of where it lives would have been destroyed. Luckily I’m in an unfinished basement so I can see where everything runs.

[@johnhaller5851]

My mom had a water leak while not home, and it traveled through furnace ducts to find its way to the basement. Surprisingly, the leak was over a garage which didn't have a basement under it, but the ducts went through the garage to the ceiling of the basement, which is how the basement got water damage. Three floors were damaged. $60,000 of damage, and 3 roll-off dumpsters. I live in a ranch, and the only water hazard is a water heater in the garage, and it has a pan piped outside if it doesn't leak with a spray outside the pan. But, if a storm damaged my roof, that could also cause damage until I could get a blue tarp up.

[@jamesorr1200]

I feel your pain. I brought my SawStop home last December. The top didn’t survive two weeks. I had the garage door up after a rain, and it evidently dropped down on the saw. Definitely not as bad as your situation, but my beautiful new table top has a black love mark now. I ordered Carbon Method immediately after. 😊

[@wittworks]

oh wow!

[@frankdesign8723]

Similar thing happened to me on my Delta. I started sanding with 220 and worked it up to 4000 before switching to a polishing pad with polishing compound. Then finished with some carpenters wax and it was good as new

[@southerncreativestudio]

Don't know if it's been suggested but the Boeshield Rust Free is a rust miracle worker.

[@Roller76]

When I first saw the thumbnail I thought, "wow that's an odd looking table saw", and then I started watching and I thought it wasn't that bad, it's only rust. But then I tried to put myself in your shoes, after buying a brand new table saw and that happening, and I would've been upset. That said, I've never owned a quality table saw, except for my grandpop's very old Sears Craftsman saw. And recently I just bought another vintage Sears (belt driven) table saw from a nice guy on Craigslist and it has a decent amount of rust on the top. Which is surprising since we live in New Mexico and metal can stay bare for years without rusting. Compared to growing up in Jersey and metal rusts UNDERNEATH painted surfaces lol. So I'm sorry for your troubles but its given me hope and will help me get my table saw smooth.

[@heyallenify]

I will say, I didn't know of that company offered kit, but did something very similar with WD-40 and maroon scotch bright pads on my first table saw. I never got it all the way to a bright "new" cast iron color, but it did come back to an even darker grey, and worked fine for years. For the worst areas, I used a gasket scraper that uses a spring steel card as a scraping edge. This got some rust off, as well as the paint stains that were left by some prior owner using it as a painting bench. I did finish mine with BoeShield T-9 as a protective layer afterward. All that said, great work there, and best wishes with your shop recovery.

[@briannelson4122]

I have an old Craftsman table saw that I got in pieces and had to refurbish. It was in extremely rough shape. A friend gave it to me during Covid lockdown and it was more therapeutic than necessity to rebuild it. The top was in as bad of shape as yours, and since it didn't cost me anything I used sandpaper and WD-40. I started with 100 and really got most everything done with that. I went up to 800 grit wet & dry with WD and other than the fact that these tops weren't milled that great to begin with (lots of milling marks) it came out great! For about 6 months after I had a wood block with 800 grit on it and would just block it out before waxing it. Iknow you probably wont want to be as aggressive , but it worked out just fine for me

[@andyboybennett]

After all that sanding, have you assessed the top for flatness?

[@TCoffman]

Drew, I’m so sorry. I’m praying that you can get it all working and cleaned up.

[@mightygrom]

I feel your pain... my 3 week old f150 hybrid was rear-ended by a distracted driver (she was going about 40 mph faster than I when she hit me)... fortunately nobody was hurt, but my truck is still at the shop over a month later, and they still haven't been able to start the repairs... there is a good chance that the frame will need to be replaced... I hope I will get it back before this winter.

[@wittworks]

Oh wow. That’s the worst. Glad you’re ok.

[@dinacusic7829]

I lived on a tropical island and ran a wood shop. Rust was always an issue just because of humidity on a regular basis but we had a typhoon come through once and damaged the cast iron on EVERYTHING. We sanded with 120 grit, then up the stages to 400, and then used paste wax to give a smooth finish so we could run wood smoothly across the surface. Everything went back to being operational and we just ensured the next time a typhoon came through to cover everything in plastic.

[@peterlaughlin930]

So sorry to hear about this, but this video was exceptional and your pain came through loud and clear best of luck

[@patrickstone9229]

Same thing happened to me, same saw and everything, never got the stain out, but I put deep gouges in it with some pocket screws, so the stains don't bother me anymore😅

[@wittworks]

THROWING THE KREG JIG AWAY RIGHT NOW

[@jimrosson6702]

So sorry Drew this is heartbreaking for you and your shop and tools and your family hope everything works out and the insurance company comes through. Sending prayers for you and your family 🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@wittworks]

Thank you. Hoping too

[@Matt_Foley]

For those unaware, Evaporust makes a gel version of their product. Obviously its intended purpose is for vertical objects, but instead of soaking rags in liquid Evaporust as another commenter suggested, it’s probably more cost effective to hunt down the gel version. It’s the most uncooperative sticky goo imaginable, but it stays put once you get it where it needs to be. And is just as effective as the liquid version.

[@adamb2619]

You are now able to restore a vintage Delta or Powermatics! Welcome to the restoration club, you did an incredible job for such a horrible and unfortunate incident.

[@wittworks]

Thank you

[@GeometryBuild]

Choking on rusty oranges… 😂 happy it can be restored!

[@beyondutility]

Wow, that sucks. You've done a great job cleaning it though and I hope that in time you'll learn to love the new pattern. I know it's not what you'd normally expect but if it works perfectly then it's got some great history and a story to go with it. I think it looks kinda cool. Good luck.

[@ddutton0]

This is heartbreaking! It is literally a nightmare in real life, I worked at our local ROCKLER and the AC dripped down on one of our floor model saw stops, same staining. Thankfully the electronics were good. also I didn’t sit for two days. Hoping that you’re able to get your saw replaced or at least back up and running.

[@cjsawinski]

If the rust is that bad skip the 3m pads and start with real sand paper… wet sand it starting at about 600-800 grit, then hit it with 100-1200 grit, then switch to the 3m pads for final “buffing”… another note, he was cleaning the 3m pads using a piece of plywood… just clean them with water in a utility sink.

[@David-hm9ic]

That is heartbreaking. You have my sympathy. Most of the machines in my shop are old cast iron, often purchased in poor cosmetic condition. I bought a jointer that had been stored outdoors. It looked like your saw. Boeshield RustFree has been very good at removing the old rust staining from bare cast iron surfaces. It's fairly noxious to use but it works. Good ventilation is a must but you don't want a breeze blowing across the surface that you're cleaning. Your mechanical process combined with RustFree would very likely give you bright cast iron again. I'm located on the humid Gulf Coast so I treat all of my cast iron machines with Boeshield T-9 once they're clean. I spray it on, let it soak for 24 hours, wipe off the excess and let it completely dry. Allow another day for the T-9 to dry. After all of that the surfaces still get paste wax but rust doesn't develop once the machines are treated. I have a schedule of cleaning the cast iron with mineral spirits every two years and retreating from scratch so I'll never have to do heavy cleaning again.

[@StsFiveOneLima]

Oh I feel this pain. I left pressure treated five-quarter deck boards laying across my table saw for about a month while I traveled, and, where they were in contact, same result. I've got the saw back to working order, but need to put some more time in to it.

[@kevinr1704]

I'm glad you were able to get it cleaned up! I need to get some of the carbon coat for my saw. It has a few stains from a leak also, but it wasn't anything like yours was. At first, it looked like yours was Tin coated. 😂

[@wk7060]

You can rinse the Scotchbrite pad out with water, blow it out with compressed air and will clear out the rust so you can start over. T9 Rust remover and T9 Boeshield is best. I get sick when I see 1 speck of rust on my table saw. I know how you feel.

[@jasonbroom7147]

I would have been stunned to see that kind of damage to an expensive shop tool. With that said, I wouldn't have been dismayed or worried that it couldn't be restored to full functioning condition. I guess I've just taken too many old and broken things and made them perfectly serviceable again. It's mostly cosmetic and wouldn't worry me a lot. I'm one who believes very strongly in form following function.

[@mikemorgan5015]

Finally some common sense. I'm not saying anybody should be happy about having their stuff rusted up, but damn, it's just metal. As long as the surfaces are flat and smooth, that's all that matters. Folks on here acting like he lost a family member. I could have that table derusted and smooth as a baby's behind in less than an hour. It happens, and it's not big deal. One time I had just gotten finished restoring the cast iron tables on my table saw and jointer. My wonderful wife was kind enough to surprise me with an ice cold drink and set it on the yet to be waxed jointer infeed table while I wasn't looking. It was a humid summer Sunday afternoon. That ring is still there. You can't feel it, or measure it, but you can see it. I consider it a battle scar or badge of honor.

[@cryptoinstagator4390]

Aww man that sucks bad! Good to know about the carbon coat and the restore. I have my dads old Hitachi table saw that I want to restore. I’ll have to try it and see how it goes!

[@bauerbach1]

happened to my (much cheaper) saw. unfortunately I suspect with my sanding out the top, I may have unleveled the surface. Or it unleveled itself and I happened to notice after. Just an ever so slight convex curve. perhaps because I went more aggressive at the front and back edge where the rust was worse. check to be sure youre still flat.

[@matthewgaylen2827]

what does sanding wet rust do to the inneards of the sander?

[@moikechan]

Cast iron surface appearance and precision flatness can be restored to better than new with a little elbow grease. Look up "lapping granite surface plate". You can use the wings on one another and then on the main table. It's hard to mess up and will be better than factory when you're done.

[@ShopNation]

Your poor Festool sander 😂

[@wittworks]

Yeah man! It was orange when all said and done.

[@tommegan6500]

I had a fire in my boat shop 6 years ago. Among the machines I lost was a cast-base 10” Delta tilty tablesaw. Now I’m starting to move into a new shop, and I wanted to set up a router table on my 12” Walker- Turner tablesaw. I began to think about what to use for the actual table, and I thought about that old saw. It had been sitting outside the whole time, and the pot metal quadrants had melted in the fire, I didn’t have much hope for it. When I brought it into the shop though, a straight edge showed it to be un-warped, so I went after the surface with scrapers, then 3M pads. It cleaned up beautifully, actually a better surface than the old W-T saw it’s bolted to! A fire, then 6 years in the elements, and now perfect - I don’t think your saw should be much of a problem.

[@wittworks]

Oh wow.

[@walterrider9600]

thank you . that is so heart breaking . may need a machine shop surface grinder to fix

[@yankee5886]

I use t-9 on all my machines which are in a damp humid basement. And have not had one rust issue so far. Table saw jointer drill press etc.

[@fidgetshouse]

I am so sorry that this happened to you. Water damage is such a nightmare.

[@Martin1519]

Dang man that really hurts because tools aren’t just expensive, they are our livelihood. They are what puts food on the table to feed our families and pay bills for many. I’m glad you were able to repair the top.

[@kato1400]

I always keep my table saw and jointer covered with clear vinyl covers to keep the tops from rusting in the Hawaii salt air.

[@wittworks]

That's a good idea!

[@threesteaks]

The saw looks great, all things considered! I hope everything works out with the electronics 🤞 What kind of jointer is that?

[@JayWye52]

buy a bottle of Loctite naval jelly,it's a rust remover. then you'll probably need to use some fine carbide wet/dry paper to polish it to near-normal. Ace Hdwr has it for $9 for a 16 ox bottle. it works great on rust.

[@jimcooksey812]

this is a great advertisement for using paraffin and a buffer on your table saw regularly. Thanks for the video! Have a better week!

[@spitter7657]

I have used machinist stones and wd40 on cast iron tables of CNC machines. This way it prevents you from "digging a hole". While it doesnt get all of the staining it gets it clean quickly and leaves a smooth finish. I also got a bit of rust on my sawstop, not the extent of yours but that is what I used.

[@geenababystreams6695]

Sorry ab your sawstop. would CLR work or is it too aggressive?

[@FatherOfTheParty]

You said you were surprised that in only a couple days this happened. I milled up some walnut (which I thought was dry) and set a couple pieces on my saw over night and came back to rust (not quite as bad as you had) that took hours to get off. Happens surprisingly fast.

[@wittworks]

Oh wow.

[@liquidrockaquatics3900]

Since I’m only half way through I don’t know how it came out, but switching to something hard and using a polishing compound will knock off the high spots and abrade everything slightly and leave a high polish. Same as stropping compound

[@KnifeHandWoodDesign]

I bought a jet tablesaw off market place and the cast iron looked like that. I used sandpaper on my random orbital sander. started at 80 and worked my way all the way up to 400. the top is nice and smooth and no issues with it.

[@Matt_Foley]

I protect all of my cast iron tools with Boeshield T-9. Developed by Boeing. After the petroleum distillates evaporate, it leaves behind a very thin film of wax. Nothing else I have tried compares to this stuff, in terms of rust prevention, especially the longevity of it. And It works on more than just cast iron (noisy door hinges, freshly polished brass). It’s a little pricey but IMO worth it (and it’s made in the USA)

[@AaronGeller]

Just saw my name in the credits... that's pretty cool! Proud to be a supporter of the channel. Hoping all works out with the saw -- I would be utterly devastated if I had been in your shoes. Looking forward to more of the story.

[@anthonypalazzolo6181]

Well the best way for this . Me been a spray painter and worked on metal what you should do is sand with a sander p 100 p 180 p240 then with a scotch brite pad and a glove you get a liquid solution called dioxidene its phosgoric acid you go over it thoroughly and live it for 10 minute and repeat the procedure with the dioxidene. Then you neutralise it with in a bucked with water and methylated spirit you wipe on then quickly wipe off and the watch it shine but this type of method is for a experience person

[@robthewaywardwoodworker9956]

Nasty. I did like the Damascus-like finish. I'll be interested in how this happened. I was kinda hoping you had insurance to replace the saw and I could buy the old saw from them for pennies! LOL

[@BigBenAdv]

Artificial white vinegar (acetic acid) is the same as rust removal sprays and you could use it to remove most of the rust by soaking and laying paper towels on the surfaces for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping down. It's also much cheaper when sold in larger containers for commercial kitchens (gallon or larger). Also useful for descaling glass containers or cleaning limescale from shower screens.

[@sparkyenergia]

Carbon method for hand planes? Does that work or is it grippy or what not?

[@mrmerkin6203]

I've restored many old (decades) cast iron tables ... table saw, jointer, horizontal saw, band saws, etc .... and simply start with 80 grit pads. Seems to work fine for me and not much you can't get out. So, for whatever that's worth. Good luck!

[@TheKurtTribute]

My shop partially caught on fire around a year ago. All of my power tools and some hand tools were a total loss, I understand how you feel 100%!!! Our sawstop at work unfortunately experienced a lot of rust for similar reasons, we just used steel wool and WD-40. Staining is still really bad, but at least it’s mostly smooth.

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

Have you considered surface conditioning tool? It's pretty good at removing stuff above metal surface, paint, rust, e.g. I am using it to get rust and stain off of my Hammer combo machine. Rust remover may be able to remove some staining. Then remove it with solvent of your choice, and apply your favorite coating no top.

[@choprpilot76]

I put Carbon Method on my Saw Stop when I bought it last June. I swear by that stuff. I live in hot and humid southeastern Alabama and my TS is still rust free. Apply it properly per the manufacturer’s instructions and it’ll serve you well.

[@bobweiram6321]

I wouldn't be worried at all if it happened to my machines. Removing rust is easy if you understand it's chemistry. I would have applied a mild acid mixed with a thickener, such as corn starch, on the surface. Leave it for a couple of hours and then sand the surface progressively from 220 down to 400 and a final buff and polish. The staining is actually rust trapped in the grit pattern and water droplets. You're not getting a deep enough cut into the metal reach remove it. You'll always get staining unless it's polished with a buffing pad.

[@bnwww]

I had a water leak hit my Sawstop. It was wet for maybe 3 to 5 days. I removed the rust but I have that exact same stain pattern. I've not figured out yet how to remove it :/