Won't These Melt?!? 15amp Receptacles on 20 amp Circuits!!!

In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin digs into some of the reasons WHY we are allowed to install 15a devices on 20a rated circuits in certain instances and what can happen if we overload those circuits.
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We usually see the results of breakers not tripping as they should, but the devices melting instead around the winter months where portable space heaters are more plentiful, or circuits are overloaded with Christmas lighting. Part of the problem with this (at least on the residential spectrum) is due in part to being able to install a 15a receptacle (and the associated wiring) but that 15a breaker can EASILY be replaced with a 20a breaker by anyone, thus negating the wiring and associated device being able to sustain the increased amperage and failing.
In fact, article 210.21 (B) of the NEC states that SINGLE receptacles installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating of not less than that of the branch circuit. BUT 201.21(B)(3) and table 210.21(B)(3) allows us to install 15 OR 20 amp rated receptacles on a 20a branch circuit. Why would this be? Well, if you were to relate it to a service size, not EVERYTHING will be used at its capacity at the same time, and we are allowed to install one under this assumption. If you added up ALL the 20a breakers in your panel, along with the larger ones for your AC, water heater, etc., it would probably end up well over 200a on a standard 200a service in most residences. Another way to look at it would be that while you may be utilizing the entire 20a worth of current on the ENTIRE circuit (over all the devices on the circuit), the chances are very slim that you would be pulling 20a worth at any one device.
210.21(B)(2) further states that a receptacle connected to a branch circuit supplying 2 or more receptacles (which is most of the circuits we would install), that receptacle shall not supply a total cord-and-plug connected load in excess of the maximum specified in Table 210.21(B)(2). This table, for instance, shows us that for a 15 or 20a circuit, with a 15a receptacle, that we can have a maximum load on that cord-and plug connected circuit of 12a. If that were to be adhered to, there would be no problem. But are we, the installing electrician, available to guide the homeowner as to what they should plug into their house circuity or are most homeowners savvy to our electrical code (or even know there is one)? And considering the colder months and holiday months when additional load that isn’t normally being used, you can see why it can turn into a problem.
But wouldn’t the 20a breaker just trip if you had more than 20a worth of current being drawn on it? Not necessarily. If you dumped more than 20a all at once, then yes, it should trip. But thermally, if you allowed that amperage and heat to build up slowly (in the case of small electrical space heaters) then the breaker is designed to trip at about 130% of the value it is rated for. In the case of a 20a breaker, that would be 24a! And someone was to plug those space heaters into a single 15a rated receptacle, then that receptacle COULD melt before the breaker tripped!
210.23(A)(1) & (A)(2) also mention how much you can plug into a branch circuit, (A)(1) telling us that the rating of any one cord-and-plug connected equipment not fastened in place shall not exceed 80% of the branch circuit ampere rating, and (A)(2) telling us that utilization equipment fastened in place shall not exceed 50% of the branch circuit ampere rating where lighting, and/or other cord-and plug connected equipment are also supplied.
So, how can we combat these potential issues? Install nothing but 15a rated devices with 15a rated wiring and breakers? Or maybe nothing but 20a devices with 20a rated wire and 20a rated breakers. Or maybe some general electrical education of the general population is a better way to go? What are your thoughts? Let us know in the comments below! If you have a question or topic, you would like to know more about please let us know!
We hope this has brought some light to this situation. Please continue to follow Electrician U and Dustin as we are constantly adding new content to keep our followers up to date on the happenings of our industry.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #sparky life #electronic code book #electrical code coach

[@matthewrichmond5179]

One of the other common causes of melted receptacles is old/worn out ones. If you look at the data sheet (and there is one if it is UL rated) there is a spec that states the amount of times the plug can be connected and disconnected and still maintain the contact pressure for that current. There is actually a tester for the insertion and removal force of a receptacle. If the force holding the connection is weak it will not matter if the plug is rated for 15 or 20 amps it is going to get warm if there is a loose connection. (either on the user side, or the terminal side).

[@JBDay-bd8cu]

Agreed. Old and wore out. Your statement about the contract pressure being a very valid point. I rarely consider myself when doing troubleshooting unless it's glaringly obvious its wore out in that way. One cause of a receptacles being worn out is from just slightly over-amping it over time. Breaking it down slowly until it fails. With any luck it fails in a way that makes it stop working instead of catching fire from arcing. Part of why AFCI breakers are becoming more and more prevalent. As they should. Though they can be a pain in the ass to set up

[@Galgamoth]

@@JBDay-bd8cu no idea where you got that but that is completely incorrect, receptacles are tested at well above their rated amperages to get certification and AFCIs were implemented because of damaged wires in the walls starting fires.

[@elcosco122]

"It all comes down to the feria" I Love it! That is one of the many reasons why I follow you!

[@andresmedina1279]

No kidding, great nug to go with the great content!

[@Blackbeard1323]

He's gotta be from southern cali lol

[@andysamsung3140]

Or Texas

[@Blackbeard1323]

@@andysamsung3140 agreed

[@stevenbass732]

As an electrician, I liked to tell my apprentices that the NEC and Fire protection codes were written in blood. I found that it helped them understand the seriousness of the job. Excellent video, BTW.

[@testthisfordecficiencies]

Good advice. The fact is, that is very true. A lot of times, rules aren't enacted until something had gone wrong first.

[@kalijasin]

NEC was created to prevent fire. Nothing else.

[@stevenbass732]

@@kalijasin Nope. The NEC was written to standardize electrical installations. This does help prevent fires but the primary purpose is safety for electricians and everyone else.

[@jsb7546]

They are also just the minimums and can be exceeded if it improves safety or functionality.

[@gerdberg4188]

@@stevenbass732 actually you are both right , yes we needed standards , but , an incident can and has caused whole rewrites and new rules many times ………

[@patturcotte5465]

As a DIYer, it wasn't even a thought that a 20 amp receptacle was built differently than a 15 amp receptacle. This was a great information video for me! Thanks

[@LBCAndrew]

You should see the differences between Residential Grade, Commercial Grade, Industrial Grade, and Hospital Grade receptacles. I will never use a residential grade receptacle again for the rest of my life and anyone putting those pieces of crap into a new home aught to be ashamed of themselves.

[@HawkGTboy]

@@LBCAndrewWhere do you get the commercial grade ones?

[@sg39g]

​@@HawkGTboy In the same stores. And I recommend INDUSTRIAL grade for the most heavily used sockets. This is very important for a regular electrical outlet used to charge an electric car. Commercial and industrial grade electrical outlets even exist in decora versions!

[@richardmunn8903]

I bought an older 1960's house back in 2003 and had to gut it and redo many things. We found several DIY issues that could have burnt the house down. My son and I replaced all fixtures and switches and the little shop off the carport was so bad I actually got scared after finding wires just taped together in insulation, no box covering them. Thanks for your video. Now I know how to set up my new shop.

[@sigcrazy7]

Spec / commercial grade receptacles are basically identical beneath the cover. In fact, up until recently, Leviton 15a spec grade even had the hardware for a horizontal neutral, but it was covered by the 15a configuration. The real difference is between those cheap, 15a residential receptacles vs spec grade ones. Best rule of thumb: Don’t buy receptacles that have the ability to be back stabbed, and you will be buying a receptacle that is rated for 20a, regardless of the NEMA plug configuration. If the receptacle can only be side or back wired (not back stabbed), then it is of better quality.

[@mcross9095]

This was super helpful for me. We’ve just finished a major renovation and I was wondering about this. Thanks!

[@scott1395]

As a residential electrician of 35 years I've always liked to meet with homeowners at the jobs items to go over and lay out what they want in each room of the house! I ask alot of questions , like how do you envision using this room or do you envision adding something in the future! I can wire things in ways that make it easily adaptable to make the changes or additions by means of methods of wiring or just simple accessible junction boxes! I let them know that it's easier to do it in the rough or can be done so it's easier later! I also give to options of how I can make things work AKA switching lites, recepts, photocells, timers,etc! I've also on huge custom homes mostly were pricing allows more flexibility, I've pigtailed each receptacle so a load on circuit isn't pulling thru the device! It's take more time to do them that way but feel it's a better job when possible! I've always been a perfectionist when it comes to my work, sometimes too much I think! I've always tried to be a quality electrician not a quantity electrician!

[@bricefleckenstein9666]

It's not hard to put a "loop" in the middle of the lead, and just run the loop "around" the screw and out the other side then keep going to the next outlet. No risk of the pigtail splice failing, as there is NO SPLICE if you do it that way.

[@GODSREAL]

Home owners are clueless and they suck to explain crap to. So bad that they should be billed more while they try and drive price down. Then you gotta deal with some dumb ditz with money that doesn't listen. That's an all inclusive statement too, man and woman. Plus the scamdemic was all about replacing people to pay morons less that don't know these things. That's what the scamdemic was for. Meanwhile you out work people half your age and they cry about how much you make.

[@bricefleckenstein9666]

@Karl with a K Code is a MINIMUM specification. It does not limit you from using better materials or methods. You appear to misunderstand the entire POINT of having a code.

[@MageLeaderInc]

@@bricefleckenstein9666 I think he understands perfectly. He's saying that the code minimum is set too low and that it needs to be updated. And he's not wrong. The amount of power devices pull now days and the amount of devices people have now days is way higher than what it use to be. And if somebody does build meeting just the minimums it won't meet the electrical needs of the average American.

[@bricefleckenstein9666]

@@MageLeaderInc While the number of devices is higher, most are not higher per device. Higher-end gaming computers, gaming consoles, EV rechargers, in *SOME* cases microwaves are the exceptions. Overall consumption though is NOT a lot higher, and usually is LOWER, over the last 20 years - thanks to the widespread adoption of LED lighting and CFDs before that and to EPA "Green" standards for the most part - but the widespread FORCED adoption of EVs is going to change that.

[@Darenator1]

20A circuit for receptacles with 15A duplex recepts, 15A circuit for lights. (Better for box fill with 3&4 way, dimmers, etc) Only burned recepts I have seen had loose connection, many times in the wire to plug connection gets hot, thus melting the recept.

[@JBDay-bd8cu]

And isn't that more of a case study to say we should just put 20 amp plugs on 20 amp breakers ? They aren't that much more and have better protection. 😊

[@jamesrock3055]

Thank you so much for this lesson. I definitely get it now. I understand that i have only a couple of recepticles to change to be on the safe side.

[@spencerkerr382]

I know this was a simpler topic but I love the breakdown! Very effective, can’t wait to follow and watch more. ⚡️

[@RobertSmith-lw2bx]

I like he’s breaking down the code (correctly) and showing and giving actual code. Interested in seeing some of his future videos also. But breakers trip from overcurrent and ground fault. Thermal is a way it does so. You can’t load a breaker over 80% because the UL listing of the breaker states that.

[@chriswebb8385]

Yep.. Had to check this out because I'm not a advanced electrician but recently wired up my new music room with 20 amp breakers and UF B wire with 20 AMP outlet's on a 5 plug run and now I feel like I did the right thing since I just use a couple amps to play guitars and a DJ system on it's own run.. Thanks..

[@billkinkle5321]

Dustin, can't thank you enough bro for these vids, all the work you do, and particularly your obsessive commitment to doing it right, safe, and clean. As a paramedic and ER nurse I've seen some hellacious injuries from electricity over the years whether from lightning strike or just shitty unsafe habits. I grew up with my dad teaching me general DIY skills, but always emphasizing the line between being honest about your limitations ansd calling a professional. I'vee always been a little obsessed with electricity and this channel lets me secretly nerdout, but this video majorly helped me out over a head scratcher. I had no idea breakers had 2 different methods by which they can trip. This was a serious light bulb moment. Anyway man, thanks for all this incredible content: liked, subscribed, dingy belled etc. This shit is gold and inspiring, damn, thinking about a new career at 48. Keep it up.

[@rogersmith7396]

That type of breaker may no longer be code. New ones are current sensing and can trip below maximum faceplate if needed. The ones in my boat look like the inside of a transister radio with caps and resisters etc. I always follow KISS.

[@mikefochtman7164]

I've run across 'melted outlets' and often it's one of few things. An old outlet with loose prongs that should have been replaced, older home with AL wiring prior to proper AL standards, or homeowner using one of those blocks so they can plug four or more things into one outlet.

[@johnchristmas7522]

I was called out to a burnt out electrical socket, by a panic stricken customer. Only to realise that the chain controlling the vertical blind, was hanging across the socket, which the customer then proceeded to squash against the socket with the plug! Oh dear some people.

[@cutwagman]

@@johnchristmas7522 That’s a one in a million wow.

[@hockeyman2274]

I went to my step daughter and husband's newly remodeled home with $45 designer outlets throughout. Found several that had wires not tightened in outlet. Then melted outlet by the nightstand. Turn out this was a half hot/ switched hot where the apprentice did not break the tab. My step daughter and husband's excuse was "good electricians are expensive". I told them "bad electricians are more expensive"

[@johnchristmas7522]

@@hockeyman2274 More to the point, their fire insurance would not have paid out!

[@JamieMurdock90]

@@johnchristmas7522 are you sure about this? Insurance covers claims resulting from negligence, right?

[@rudyr5396]

Great recap and explanation helping people understand their electricity system. Well done, your video clarified things for me and confirm some I already new. Cheers!

[@J-D248]

Just discovered your channel, some much great information and your humor and candor is wonderful!

[@donwhittle7256]

I’m just a home owner who is remodeling an older house. I dislike working on electrical but your knowledge and explanations are helping me either do it myself or hire a pro. I appreciate that you have this channel and share your knowledge.

[@johnchristmas7522]

WARNING HIRE A PRO. iT WILL BE CHEAPER IN THE LONG RUN.

[@jp-zp4zz]

Pros not cheap .. I'll take the fire risk 😭🤣

[@markchidester6239]

I have seen videos of the break down and comparison of 15 and 20 amp receptacles. They showed that the internals we're the same with a different faceplate. Makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint.

[@Jgalaski8438]

Not all. cheap residential ones are different for 15A due to the number manufactured. The small savings for 15amp vs 20amp over the quantity justified cheeping out as much as possible. IIRC, these were the $1 ones from home Depot/Lowes. Commercials ones were all the same: the internals of a 15 amp were the same as 20amp

[@wim0104]

builders get special cheap nasty stuff, including switches & GFCI's that only last 3 years or less. Replaced hundreds of them.

[@miguelkafka]

I watched a video on Mike Holt's channel that stated just what you commented.

[@iwinrar5207]

@@wim0104 cut as many corners as posst so the customer who had whatever built had to have someone come out and deal with it... Just to save a few cents

[@justinlast2lastharder749]

@@iwinrar5207 It's more of a Track Home Building thing. Build 20 Condos and cut as many corners as possible. Uniform Stair Risers? Nah, it'll be fine. Level floors? They are getting Carpet so who cares?

[@jjstak98h]

I just bought a house that has this issue. Nothing was brought up by the inspector before closing but after moving in I noticed 20 amp breakers & 15 amp outlets. I checked the wiring & it was 20 amp wires on the 20 amp breakers but questioned the outlets. This answers my question. Thanx

[@jayjohnson3090]

Thank YOU!!! Now I know why my portable air conditioner melted two of my outlets (two different rooms) in the past. I always wondered about that until now. Thanks again!!

[@Nerull101]

One of the very few videos that I've seen that actually addresses this correctly! As an electronics engineer, you have my thanks on dispelling this oft repeated myth that it's inherently unsafe / not to code.

[@Vipre77]

My issue with the code is that it doesn't matter if a circuit has one or 10 receptacles on it. An overloaded single receptacle is still overloaded regardless of how many are on the circuit. The NEC can say you should never plug more than 12A into a 15A receptacle even if it's on a 20A circuit, but how many people bother to go add up how much load they're actually connecting? Many have no idea until a breaker blows. And if you're blowing a 20A breaker on an overloaded 15A receptacle, the breaker should have blown sooner than it did. The NEC code is gambling that all of your load on the circuit will be spread out between multiple receptacles, which is probably true in most cases, but why is "most cases" good enough here when it may not be true? As I said before, the ease in which you can overload a single receptacle is the same regardless of how many receptacles are on the circuit.

[@dr.benpintor2523]

Had the issue come up recently. Your explanation really helped me understand this issue. Thanks for the information.

[@christopherallen5603]

Good job explaining this. I try to explain this to residential customers cuz I know they're not techs in the field and there's so many houses with very old outdated wiring in my area that I stress these points as much asi can

[@CoolJosh3k]

A simple thing you could say is that a breaker protects only the wires inside the walls. This is especially true for extension cords leading to power boards/strips.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

Good point! Years ago 18 gauge extension cords were common place, these kept the fire departments busy in the winter months, when folks plugged their 1500 watt space heaters in. As a result UL specs require a minimum of 16 awg, better, but I personally would only use a 14awg minimum extension cord like an air conditioner cord, if I needed to plug a heater in, even then I occasionally check the connections for heat.

[@JuneNafziger]

@@Sparky-ww5re what’s even worse are outdoor rated 16 gauge cords that look like they might be heavy duty but just aren’t, cooked a power tool using one of those.

[@randybobandy9828]

@@JuneNafziger how do you cook a power tool from an extention cord?

[@JuneNafziger]

@@randybobandy9828 it caused a voltage drop that made the tool pull too much current (but not enough to pop the breaker) leading to it burning itself up

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

@@randybobandy9828 Motors are very prone to burnout if the voltage is too low. Longer circuits cause voltage drop due to the added resistance that the length of the total circuit introduces. What also causes added resistance is smaller conductors, so while you may have 115 volts at a receptacle, you might only get 95 or 100 volts at the far end of a 100' 16 gauge extension cord. (Under load.) So power tools are best supplied by minimum #14 if not #12 gauge cords.

[@jamesmartello1827]

When I was an electrical contractor in the Chicago area I actually did a job at Argonne National Labratory which is located in Downers Grove Illinois a suburb southwest of Chicago. The lab actually had a machine that you could introduce simulated amps on a wire of your choice. We took a piece of #12 stranded and we wanted to see how many amps it would take to melt the insulation on the wire. When the Thhn insulation melted the reading was at 230 amps. It’s really a stretch to say that using a 20 amp breaker on #14 Thhn wire is a hazard, especially if the wire is in a conduit.

[@johnnytocino9313]

Fascinating. Yet it's not the wire rating nor the insulation that is the problem. So it must be where connections are made or when insulation has been damaged that causes a fault?

[@simoncameron4355]

Well then, I am going to wire my entire house with #14 wire then.... including my stove. :) Just kidding, and thanks for the info, that's good to know, I recently wired up an outlet for a friend using #14 because he had a low load for that outlet, and when I came back he had an AC unit plugged in, when I told him not to use it for anything other than what he was using it for. Good to know his place won't burn down because of me.

[@Brindle_Boxer]

Yeah, most things are capable of handling way more than they are rated for. They are rated to be on the safe side in the worst of unusual circumstances. It’s still wise to follow the rating though.

[@merlesgarage]

@ James Martello, do you recall the length of the sample piece of #12 wire that was used in this test?

[@Galgamoth]

yes but you also don't want hot wires in your walls

[@mementhusiast]

Watched this to get an answer to my question, but this was so well explained/produced that I had to sub! Keep up the awesome work

[@terryroot4492]

Thank you so much! I love that you break down your explanation to code I interpret laws and regulations every day for my job but I'm not an electrician. This will help me make an informed decision in replacing a Dual Function AFCI/GFCI outlet in my kitchen that was fried by ants. The downstream outlet won't work either because of it.

[@EzRay11]

I recently found your channel. I’m not an electrician. However I do all my basic home wiring. I have learned a ton of useful information from you and the comments you receive. One thing that keeps coming back to me is how I’ve managed not to kill myself, anybody else or burn a house down over the years. I’m doing things much safer now and always try to do the job the way a skilled electrician would. I very much appreciate the effort you and others like you put forth to educate those of us that aren’t electricians. Cheers

[@ronb6182]

You probably wire better than some so call skilled electricians. I had to replace a switch because a skilled electrician didn't know the difference between a 4 way switch and a double pole switch. It was crazy you turn the double pole switch off the the rest of the three way switches didn't work. Guess the electrician didn't know that 3 and 4 way switches don't have the words on and off on the toggle. But a double pole and single pole switches do. 73

[@JBDay-bd8cu]

​@@ronb6182lol. That's funny. It's possible that said electrician got mixed up with which wires went where cause they weren't marked or he didn't mark them when disconnecting. So not necessarily they didn't know better but just made an honest mistake. But where the biggest mistake was made was not checking everything worked properly before leaving the job. If you screwed up just fix it right before leaving. Don't wait for the customer to find it first. Or they lose confidence. If you're an electrician just starting out you can't afford to have shit like that happen to you or you'll get a bad rep that you'll always have with you. You also can't afford to make mistakes like that if your uninsured and then burn someone's home down over a mistake that you didn't catch before you left. Foolish very foolish lol

[@ronb6182]

@@JBDay-bd8cu yeah true but the funny thing this was commercial wiring, a business. I knew how to do three and four way switches since I was in the ninth grade. I even put one in my in-laws cabin. We have three doorways to turn the living room lights on and off. I also found out if one three way switch fails you can still turn on and off the lights at the two other doorways. If the four-way switch fails I don't know the results maybe the other switches would work. That will be my next experiment. I had learned these things in bread board experiments in my electrical and electronics class. My dad taught me wiring skills as well. The best thing I learned from Dad was you don't put light circuits with outlet circuits. If you blow a breaker you won't be in the dark. Most of the time lights don't blow breakers under normal conditions. Also fire alarms are put on light circuits. Well enough of my school years and wiring. 73

[@sscarbon]

Man, I was doing a home DYI project this weekend and ran into this exact question/issue. I was confused when noticed that my circuit was 20 AMPS (12/2) but my outlets were 15 AMPS. I figured the previous owner made a mistake, and use the wrong outlets. This is the exact vid I needed. Thanks.

[@rupe53]

most 15 amp outlets are rated at 20 amps on the pass through to the next outlet. That's why it's allowed.

[@mrniusi11]

wait till you find out most appliances only have 14, 16 or 18 gauge wires in their cords/plugs.

[@cgschow1971]

@@mrniusi11 yes, but those are sized for their specific load. You wouldn't run a 12ga cord to a table lamp.

[@pliedtka]

Not problem with 12/2, especially if the runs are long - less voltage drop, especially if you have a lot equipment run on the same line.

[@anthonysmith9410]

The previous owner did not make a mistake….both 15 and 20 amp receptacle’s are the same on the In side… the two things that are different is the look, and the price.

[@dano2099]

Awesome video thank you for taking the time to make it. Definitely good information to know and you are so knowledgeable about electrical.

[@dexterking7662]

I’m not electrician I do simple things outlets switches then I can handle but from what you have explained, that is a lot of knowledge and now I know thanks for the video you broke it down piece by piece and it makes sense

[@twistedshadowsaf]

Single socket plugs points are a great idea .. until Mr and Mrs home owner decide to put 3 multiplug extensions on that single point.. then call you to complain that things are burning or tripping..

[@raymondjackson6069]

For me, just about any new wiring is 20 amp. From breaker to outlet. Thanks for the video, they are always professional and informative. You probably save a lot of lives.

[@theobserver9131]

Rule of thumb someone told me; is 15 amp for lighting, 20 amp for receptacles. Crude, but it works.

[@theobserver9131]

But yeah, just keeping at 20 amp everywhere except for specific appliances, keeps it simple.

[@raymondjackson6069]

@@theobserver9131 exactly. Too many times I have started out, say in a basement with a 15a circuit, but before you know it, I am plugging and using it for high amperage appliances. So, wherever, any brand new circuits are 20a, just to be simple and safe, and future proofed. Still, if you use a 15a plug on a 20a circuit, true it may be code, but plugging 20a users into it is risky.

[@stephenwweber]

Great video.🎉 I can understand and capture the knowledge that you are speaking. A lot of other channels that I have watched. And for some reason it was just not clicking. You're very easy to follow and understand. I appreciate that so much. 👍

[@nelsoncaraballo9446]

Thank you. I'm getting ready to redo a room. I'm installing two 20amps by window so AC can be installed in future. The other receptacles will be 15 amps. Thank you for educating us. Keep on sparking.

[@kc9scott]

The video left out the MAIN reason for the distinction between 15A and 20A receptacles. The difference in the receptacles is that a 20A receptacle will allow a plug with one blade turned sideways. A 15A receptacle will not. When a plug has one blade sideways, that means it’s an appliance that draws a lot of current, so much so that you can only run it on a 20A circuit. Any 15A duplex receptacle legally on the market will be built robust enough that you could plug in two 10A loads and not have any problems.

[@bricefleckenstein9666]

Don't bet on that - I've seen more than a few 15A duplex outlets FAIL WHEN NEW if you exceed 15A in the entire assembly.

[@jimeagle1952]

@@bricefleckenstein9666Don't bet on your "Don't bet", in my experience I've seen 20s fail with less than even a 15 Amp load. There are two differences in the 15amp and the 20 Amp. The prong shape and the cost! If a person is not concerned with cost and more concerned with reliability/safety use commercial receptacles not residential. Of course most electricians choose cost not reliability/safety!

[@bricefleckenstein9666]

@@jimeagle1952 I don't have to bet - I've SEEN too many failures from pulling more than 15 amps from a 15 amp receptacle. I've also seen 20's fail, but a lot less common as those are rarely on enough of a breaker that it won't trip before the outlet fails. And yes, I'm fully aware of the differences between NEMA 5 and NEMA 6 outlets/plugs.

[@saturnfire]

Thank you. Great explanation. I recently purchased bulk commercial spec 20 amp recepticles to change out the 15 amp $0.25 builder junk. To match my 20 amp breakers.

[@scott8049]

I just stumbled across this too. My Dino g room is a 39 amp circuit with 15 amp breakers. What the heck

[@robsimmons6910]

Great explanation! Thanks for taking the time to share this!

[@Rwandamark]

Thanks-I like your style of teaching. I can absorb a lot of great info quickly!

[@TimeSurfer206]

Fellow Sparky here. It took some doing, but I finally convinced my landlord that 15A receptacles don't belong in rentals. He wanted to know why I was so insistent, and I said, "Why do we want to come back here on Christmas Eve because this receptacle melted? Like we had to last year?"

[@Galgamoth]

QA head for a manufacturer, I can assure you the only difference between a 20A and 15A receptacle of the same grade is the face plate, everything else is the same. and the difference between grades is how much tension they apply to the blades and how many times you can plug and unplug in that outlet, before they get too loose to make good contact.

[@TimeSurfer206]

@@Galgamoth That was a lot of words to say, "I've never done this, but the BOOK SAYS..."

[@Galgamoth]

@@TimeSurfer206 last I checked the book says stuff that YOU need to follow because WE the manufacturer are involved in it's contents. do you think we are going to make multiple toolings for different amperage? and because 15 amps are allowed to be used on 20 amp circuits they need to be approved to that. but you aren't required to know any of that, you just need to follow the book.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

@@Galgamoth I Learned the bit about 15 vs 20 receptacles back in trade school mid 80's. Quite honestly, I prefer the 32 amp ring mains used in the UK and it's territories and fuses in every plug idea better than our US system limiting us to 2400 watts per radial circuit, whereas they can get 7,360 watts from one.

[@Galgamoth]

@@darrendolphdragos9752 where exactly are you pulling 7360W on a non dedicated circuit?

[@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975]

You are a really good code instructor.

[@tedfred3861]

Thank you again Dustin!!! This was so informative!! I would literally wonder why people did this.

[@anthonysmith9410]

Did what?

[@bilmoe5856]

Love the pushmatic panel above his head to his right, my left. I had one complex with these , they were the band of my existence for awhile. More for one breaker than to replace the service.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

I've seen those in homes built in the 50s and 60s. They are really cool looking, but I wouldn't trust the safety of them after over 60 years. Those particular breakers, the older ones anyway, were thermal only, and were grease fed. You were supposed to regularly exercise them to ensure they would trip if need be.

[@Galgamoth]

@@Sparky-ww5re fuses are safest, problem was homeowners would put larger fuses in.

[@jasonfoster9118]

I think replacing worn receptacles should really be more of a priority. I've seen so many old, loose receptacles melt that I figure they are one of the most common cause of fires. Also, I replaced the old receptacles in the rent house I'm living in and found wires melted about two inches back from the terminals.

[@SteveWhiteDallas]

If an outlet actually melts but doesn't cause a fire, someone got lucky because their melting point is much higher than the combustible building materials that surround them. Usually when a fire starts at a plug, something like a worn outlet, loose stab-locks or screws or loading a ckt. to its potential too many times (even repeatedly tripping a breaker then resetting it without reducing the load) will cause the wire's insulation to fail, resulting in a dead short, A dead short is the equivalent of a heating element. The box offers protection, but wood, either old and dried or new with resin, could ignite instantly. Even after the breaker trips, the heat will remain long enough for oxygen to seep into the wall, allowing the hot wood to burst into flames. At that point, the flame will suck oxygen in at a faster pace. Every time a load is put on a loose connection, a tiny arc occurs. Every time a tiny arc occurs, a tiny chunk of copper wire burns away, making the connection a tiny bit looser. The next arc and chunk of copper will be bigger and bigger ... Copper is a great conductor of heat.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

Based on research and then taking apart a 15 and a 20 amp receptacle, both Eaton brand, had same thickness internal contacts. Even the 15 amp two prong type for replacement use in pre-1962 homes with no means of grounding available, resembles your standard 15 amp, except the ground slot is covered over. The faceplate bonded to the receptacle determines the NEMA configuration. Makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint The idea is to assume the homeowner doesn't know what he or she is doing. An appliance that draws close to 20 amps will have a vertical hot prong and a horizontal neutral prong, making it impossible to plug into a 15 amp receptacle. This is to protect the circuit from an overload and the equipment from excessive voltage drop. 120 volt 20 amps plugs are rare, so in most cases 20 amp receptacles are installed on 20 amp circuits as a convenience factor, to let the user know at a glance, that it's a 20 amp circuit

[@seanshomeshop325]

commercial and hospital grade receptacles are a bit beefier than cheap residential grade receptacles, i think they're like 50 cents or a dollar more, that might be why theyre the same

[@ThatLazenbyGuy]

I was a bit flustered watching this because what you observed is standard. A 15A and 20A receptacles use the same guage metal contacts because the cost of dealing with multiple types isn't cost effective. Of course when UL listing is testing a receptacle, they're testing it based on the NEMA configuration. A 15A receptacle is only tested to 15A but it would almost certainly pass a 20A test, but that's unnecessary. If a sustained load of ~18+A will usually trip a 20A breaker. Never once have a I seen or even heard of a 20A breaker having a sustained load of 24A like he was saying. (Except a fused shut/faulty breaker which is kinda besides the point)

[@Galgamoth]

@@ThatLazenbyGuy you are correct, your breaker is supposed to be the weak link in the circuit. receptacles burning are due to the contacts being loose and arcing, not because the brass cant handle the current. the don't usually make a 20A resi grade due to low volume, they just sell a commercial grade 20 instead and for commercial and industrial grade the difference is the face, the internals are identical. also only commercial grade breakers are rated for continuous max load, a resi breaker will trip after a while if you are pulling over 80% hence why heater circuits are allowed a higher rated breaker than what is usually allowed.

[@bornfree3124]

New subscriber, Thank you man for this quick and clear breakdown, easy to understand what you are talking about, i have installed many outlets and now realize i should only use 20 amp receptacles.

[@michaelblack4993]

Thanks for the detailed post. Totally understand 15 vs 20amp. I didn’t understand why all my kitchen outlets were 15amp- “ except microwave and dishwasher were 20amp”. Was kinda freaking me out a little. But now I know…..thank you

[@patrickday4206]

The 20 amp outlet on a microwave is excessive in my personal opinion and dishwashers should be hard wired though some states allow plugs

[@bito2337]

I remember when I took my electrical license test. I failed that ish twice,but with perseverance (and my contribution to PSI) passed with an 83 on my third attempt. You need a 75 to pass. I believe it still has a stupid fail rate at 70%. 13 years later,Watching this brings back memories on how the code book is written. It’s so open to different interpretations people can(shall?) get away with the bare minimum. Awesome insight and break down of this particular matter. Cheers

[@ML-xx9kc]

With failure rates that abysmal you must be from Texas.

[@bito2337]

@@ML-xx9kc your ignorance is showing. Far from Texas. In my state they don’t hand out electrical licenses to sub par individuals.

[@ML-xx9kc]

@@bito2337 Then how did you get one Mr. Two Failures? Imagine trying to talk shit to an electrician from Michigan when you failed the exam TWICE!!🤣

[@jamesross160]

What interpretation, shall means you must or have to follow, and can means you can do it that way, but don't really have too unless the authority with jurisdiction requires it.

[@stevesideris8364]

Funny, i failed an inspection once by putting a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit. The inspector insisted on a 20. Although kitchen countertop 15A receptacles (all on 20A circuits) he had no problem with. 🤔

[@jaxsonhugh9334]

I had that same problem and the inspector was so arrogant and thought he knew everything until I showed him the NEC code. There are so many inspectors that aren’t qualified to be doing their jobs.

[@jimspirnock1184]

Ya but they should have been gfi’s

[@stevesideris8364]

@@jimspirnock1184 yes, for the kitchen, but 15A GFI on a 20A circuit? Why not 20A GFI?

[@mrniusi11]

Codes are scams to make money. That's how America works. Land of regulations, home of the taxed and oppressed.

[@cipher1167]

@@jaxsonhugh9334 Most aren’t.

[@tracyhendershot3886]

Thank you for explaining the difference. I have often wondered myself!

[@johncastle3350]

AWESOMENESS, you are getting better in getting to the point. I remember when you first started

[@SimonTekConley]

I am so happy when I rewired my office, i upgraded everything to handle 20A. I work in IT, so the odds of me using 20A is actually higher.

[@scotte8629]

You shouldn't more than 16A on a 20A receptacle.

[@aday1637]

Personally, I put 12 ga romex as the minimum and use 15 amp breakers and receptacles Rather have the breaker pop than have a melt down inside a wall. This also takes care of receptacles. Been doing that way for over 40 years. Have wired many structure without a wire-fire. This also helps with loose connections here and there throughout the circuit as well, although not a fail safe. More to your point is use of slide in connections at the receptacle rather than using the screw terminals is more likely to melt plastic, especially after that connection has been heated once or twice. Let's be real here. The entire electric code allows use of some pretty scary stuff. Hard wiring is always better than receptacles and I realize not everything can be wired that way. Receptacles are basically a compromise from the git-go.

[@chuckholmes2075]

and most people don't realize 14 gauge can SAFELY handle a good 60 amps before the wire will melt. electrical items are double and triple rated

[@johnchristmas7522]

A Day. In the UK all receptacles are made to the same standard ie to the back up MCB-32AMP. with plugs all rated at 16amp, fused internally to a given load.(max 13amp) Admittedly we don't have the same load problems as you due to our voltage. Wouldn't it be better if ALL receptacles were rated the same? ie singles 20amp and twins 40amp, wired to suit. With internal fuses within the plugs to suit given load.Then the problem with twins, having two high load draws(20amp each) would no longer be a load problem?Low load items would be fused down within the plug.

[@Galgamoth]

waste of money, 14ga can handle almost 20A at 60degrees, the breaker is always designed to be the weak link and trip before anything can happen to the circuit.

[@SAMarcus]

Oh gods, I love this explanation. Simple, easy to understand, and has references! Nice! And... boils down to "people are stupid" lol

[@mikederby8332]

One of the BEST on electric explanation on KZbin!!

[@shellysaquariumcoffeeshop3360]

Thank you so much. There was a business that shut down and walls were taken out there's a lot of these beefier receptacles that went into their closing out sale. Because of that we have a bunch of HVAC receptacles. I have to do some more research to figure out their 20 or 30.

[@Galgamoth]

look at a NEMA receptacle chart, also it should be marked on the receptacle as well

[@ehudgavron9086]

Great summary. One addon, hospital=grade receps are much better than commercial grade receps. They cost more, and they'll never let your NEMA 5-15P go. Thanks for opening the book on YT. I do this for my own houses (DIY) and NEMA and NEC are not dirty words. If more people were advised of what the code is, where to find it, and how to make use of it, we'd all be safer from melting receps, fire, etc. and more importantly things would work forever. I said it once.. but it bears repeating GREAT SUMMARY and THANK YOU. If you read your comments daily -- have a great weekend. Trades that study for years and share their knowledge... are a gosend to the rest.

[@Galgamoth]

hospital grade are just industrial grade receptacles with a plastic flap over the screws.

[@ronbailey6228]

When I wired up my garage a few years ago, all the outlets had to be tamper-resistant (per the inspector). HD only had the tamper-resistant outlets in 15amp, so I installed those. After I passed inspection, I ripped them all out and put in 20amp non-tamper-resistant outlets because I really hate the tamper resistant outlets.

[@jessejohnson159]

(You're not the only person that's done that! (Don't tell anyone! 😁)

[@MrTom38ncalif]

I thought i was the only only one that hated tamper resistant recepticles - way to go and by the way Wago fastners can make the swap out so much easier!

[@jessejohnson159]

@@MrTom38ncalif Nah Sir, 'we' are a silent group that wants to keep our sanity with electrical work! I really enjoy using the Ideal connectors initially because they take up a minimum amount of space in a receptacle box. I figured out how to 'wiggle' the connector back and forth to remove (walk out) a wire that was inserted. When I initially saw these 'push to connect' items offered at the big-box store, I went to the regional building permit office and asked about them and the Amp load they could handle. I was told "If the wire can be inserted, it can carry the Amp load rated for that wire." I did order a selection of the WAGO connectors from Amazon for future projects! 😍

[@anthonysmith9410]

There is absolutely no difference between 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles on the inside. Just the t slot on the neutral …..both 15 and 20 amp are rated the same

[@chuckemtrad8541]

Whatever happened to people just putting plastic caps over outlets? Did kids start pulling out the cheap chinese ones, so moms against humanity complained?

[@sjsphotog]

Great info thanks. I needed to upgrade my receptacles in my living room where I'm putting my home theater and that circuit is rated at 20 Amps but currently only has 15 A plugs. Wanted to get more headroom for the higher power devices like my avr, tv and power camp. Keep up the good work.

[@wilmorris4225]

Keep in mind a 15A circuit allows 14 guage conductor wire size. 14 guage is undersized for a 20 amp circuit. You need 12 guage.

[@TheStingator]

This answered a lot of the questions I had about this topic. Thanks!

[@RedneckHillbilly-ho9md]

The single outlet circuit concept can make a home much much safer, especially when we are talking old existing houses. Many cases where homeowners can't afford a total rewire or landlords don't want to invest that much we just run a circuit with one receptacle to each bedroom livingroom and kitchen usually near the window so then there is a safe outlet for A/C in the summer and space heaters in the winter.

[@averyalexander2303]

That's what I did. I ran a separate circuit for my gaming PC setup and refrigerator and a couple receptacles in the garage and I plan on installing a separate circuit in my bedroom and bathroom also. As much crap as I found with my house's wiring, I don't trust it for heavy loads since there's no way to know there aren't more issues in the walls that I don't know about. I'd rather not fry my equipment, burn the house down, etc.

[@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936]

@@averyalexander2303 I had isolated circuits installed for computer equipment when I did the buildout for my store.... of course those outlets are no longer where I need them. But they are pretty ORANGE.

[@SteveWhiteDallas]

That's great, in theory. But it really is not safe at all. The reason one outlet per room is not safe comes into view at 30 seconds into this video. With only 1 outlet in a room, eventually there will be a multiple outlet adapter plugged into it. Then there will be 2 or 3 extension cords plugged into the adapter. A wire in a lug or under a screw is a tight connection. A blade pushed into a clamp is not a tight connection. The clamps inside a plug are tight enough for a lamp, tv or even a space heater. But, they are not tight enough for a multi-outlet adapter with a lamp, tv and a space heater connected to the adapter. That is the real cause of melted receptacles.

[@THE-michaelmyers]

@@SteveWhiteDallas As an Engineer I only deal with the US NEC on VERY narrow subjects. Unless the NEC has changed over the last 30 years the code is clear about outlets in a room. There must be one switched outlet, this can switch an overhead light, or it can switch an outlet with a lamp in it. I don't have a copy of the NEC so I don't remember the rules on branch circuits, but I think there must be an outlet every 6 feet in a room. So having only one outlet in a room is actually not up to code. maybe somebody that knows the NEC better than I can correct me if I am wrong.

[@SteveWhiteDallas]

@@THE-michaelmyers Last I knew, it was an outlet every 12 feet in bedrooms, living rooms, dens, etc. and 1 every 2 feet of countertop in kitchen (if countertop was 1 foot, a plug was required.) That eliminates the need for extension cords (theoretically) since most things have a 6 foot cord and small kitchen appliances have a 1 or 2 ft. cord. When I was wiring houses, we put an outlet every 8 feet. That was company policy. 12 feet leaves too many "dead" spots. The number of general use plugs/lighting circuits required was 1 circuit per "x" square feet of living space. We limited our circuits to 10 openings (1 bulb=1 opening. 1 receptacle=1 opening.) This was overkill, but we worked for custom builders ... mostly upper middle class and up houses. We had very few problems with inspections, and electrical issues with our houses were rare.

[@mackfisher4487]

Receptacle tension tester: I'm surprised at the new now required childproof receptacles and the ones I had been purchasing once you get the plug into the receptacle there seems to less gripping tension than a standard receptacle. I Ohme'ed out the connection between plug and receptacle and found a measurable resistance, and zero resistance in the better grade receptacles. One of these days I'm going to purchase a receptacle tension tester as I believe that's where the majority of failed receptacles lies.

[@Krankie_V]

I bet you are right on the money. I've encountered some really loose goosey outlets and they've gotta be getting warm under load. When I replaced my receptacles in my home, I used Pass & Seymour spec grade tamper resistant receptacles. They grip the plug very well, so well that it's kinda hard to push them in (not talking about the tamper resistant shutters but the actual metal contacts behind them) It takes a pretty hard tug to get the plug back out as well. I can be confident that those sockets are making a good connection every time. After seeing the difference between the cheap residential grade stuff that I removed and the commercial grade devices I installed, I would not ever choose residential grade for anything other than a temporary installation. That stuff is just way too cheaply made for me to trust it.

[@jimbefit3073]

ZACTLY! TENSION should be code. I use 20a outlets on almost everything. Metal on BOTH SIDES of a plugs spade! NOT just ONE SIDE! (Aka a 15a outlet) - which imo is shytty cheesey!

[@declanfarber]

The receptacle tension tester is the way to go. Yes it’s eighty bucks, but it’s a license to print money.

[@docferringer]

@@declanfarber Eighty bucks is a lot of receptacles my friend. For pre-chilproof receptacles I kept replacement 15-amp ad 20-amp plugs (the kind you would put on the end of an extension cord when you screw up the old plug). If the prongs go in or come out loose then call it a tension failure. If it doesn't then you are good to go. If they are slightly loose then replace them before they get worse.

[@declanfarber]

@@docferringer Not if somebody’s paying you to replace them. I don’t understand why any residential electrician wouldn’t have one.

[@Bigmal23652]

Some people are meant to teach. You do a very good job man.

[@peterchristopherbanlon]

Hi there. I'm in a position to replace 4 bedroom receptacles in a 100-year-old house, wired with 12|2 off a 20a breaker. I have no choice to install 15a receptacles other than to rewire the house. You give great information. Pay attention to the load going into the receptacle. Got it. Cheers!

[@whatisthetruth6901]

If we connect a circuit breaker on each outlets, that would be impractical & expensive, not to mention the wires. So, just a simple rule of thumb, never plug any motor load or large load on a common outlet. Instead, separate a special outlet and breaker for that load.

[@bigguyprepper]

I use 20 amp breakers and 12 gauge wire and make sure I use spec grade receptacles and devices when possible. They cost more, but are better built, live a longer life, and most allow 20amp pass through.

[@markchidester6239]

Cheep fire insurance

[@Morberis]

....why not use a 20a receptacle... After all the expense it's only like 25¢ per receptacle.

[@ronb6182]

@@Morberis yeah multiply that by 400 that's why. Watch the video he already answered that question. 73

[@Morberis]

@@ronb6182 Maybe the US pricing is biased because you don't buy them.

[@ronb6182]

@@Morberis no I never bought one because I'm not an electrician. I will buy a few in the near future. I have a washing machine outlet on a fifteen amp outlet with a 20 amp breaker. It passed inspection. In my current home and all the past homes we had had regular fifteen amp outlets on the washing machine circuits and all had twenty amp breakers. My dad had thirty amp fuses on all the outlets and lighting. That was legal in the fifties. The outlets took two different types of plugs they all were rated at thirty amps. None had grounds but the boxes were all grounded by EMT. 73 PS when you are in the field of electrical you will use what code allows and not more . If the customer wants 20 amp outlets then you put in 20 amp outlets. I'm just a home owner and will use 20 amp where I feel they are needed. The washer and workshop will get 20 amp outlets. Most people don't even load their outlets more than 300 watts at most. TVs and computers don't draw that much current anymore. I would never use number 14 wire in my home I have used it outside but inside I wire with number 12 no matter how much it cost. I have two 250 foot rolls and a partial so I won't be buying wire. I always believe buy when the price is low. I only paid 35 dollars for the first roll the other two more like 49 or so. Now it's much higher. I also have plenty of number 6 three for the range. Now they are using number right but let them 6 is better. 73

[@paulanthony4089]

I’m a FST and I just love your content. The explanations are great. Thank you for all that you do.

[@BryantAvant]

Great video. I’m a handy man and understand most electrical but I always wondered why I’m always seeing 15s on 20 breakers.

[@captainhowdy3104]

When I trim out a house, I use 20 spec tr outlets. Especially when I pull the load across terminal screws. Appliances ect. Just a good practice to get used to even if most inspectors miss this.

[@notyou5557]

Load across screw terminals is not the best practice. Splice with wire nuts. Please don't tell me you use backstab for your receptacles too!

[@captainhowdy3104]

A 20 amp terminal jumper metal is thick a f why not in a house? Can’t back stab 20 amp and no , fuck no. I’m a commercial guy, I haven’t fucked with a house in years thank god, but I’ve seen way too many lost neutrals and voltage drops from loaded up terminal where someone didn’t have the know how to pigtail multiple conductors. I didn’t get my license by burning down buildings. If you can’t safely use both terminal screws, you should just quit now.

[@notyou5557]

@@captainhowdy3104 using a pigtail ensures the rest of the line is safe back to panel if you have a fault with one of the receptacles in the run. One receptacle gets screwy and causes the rest of the line to fail, you end up with your VD or a lost neutral or a lost ground. End up with a problem. Pigtail every time.

[@notyou5557]

@@captainhowdy3104 if you can't whip together a three or 4 wire splice, you should just quit right now

[@captainhowdy3104]

You not telling anything new buddy. Just saying there’s a place for both methods . Obviously over two pairs In an outlet box get pigtailed. We use torque screwdrivers on receptacles set two clicks past spec. When you have 5000 outlets in a buildings

[@sylkelster]

The problem is with receptacles that are older and have lots of plug/unplug cycles which causes the internal contacts to weaken and spread which then causes the resistance at the contact points to rise. When resistance is increased at a specific point, excessive heat is generated at that point/ junction leading to melting and fires. Usually not much material difference between 15A and 20A devices.

[@aredditor4272]

That vacuum with the bent plug? That's the one splaying out all of the outlets so they're not tight anymore.

[@jawms]

Spec grade.

[@joaquinsuarez6090]

And most people, including me, when plug is lose doesn't stay in outlet spread the plug"s legs over and over instead of replacing old lose outlets.

[@briandeines5019]

Your video makes me think about National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation . It also reminds me of my Home Depot day's 30 years ago, every Christmas, folks would come in looking for a cord with a male plug on both sides. I sold the heck out of plugs, cable, and recommended they have a fire extinguisher available . That of coarse was after I told them to take then back down and plug in male to female. Some folks want advice and then it's too much trouble so they do it their own way.

[@Shane542]

This man has a real gift of speaking that we (Mr and Mrs homeowners) can really understand! Thank you for everything..you rock!!!!

[@5W5Y5]

Thank you for all your efforts. You make really great videos, love that you go right to the book, but expand on each of the code snippets that your reference. You are teaching DIY folks done really good stuff and hopefully saving people from doing really dumb stuff.

[@danielbush5340]

Great presentation. Most important statement “code is minimum.” Thx.

[@halfawakereviews4483]

have wired countless businesses with all different sizes of plugins, and breaker's,ain panels, after awhile it's like clockwork, I really enjoyed my time as an electrician years ago of course, Liked the vid

[@manandatractor]

I purchased an older home and the panel had quite a few 20 amp breakers, so whoever wired the place took the code to heart.

[@anamcharaenergy]

Perhaps - in an older home like mine, the critical factor isn't the breaker size, it is the gauge of the wire. So as I understand it, a 20 amp circuit with 14 gauge wire is a no go.

[@manandatractor]

@@anamcharaenergy It's 12 gauge in my home and I just recently discovered they wired the storage shed in the same manner. I'm okay with this.

[@anthonysmith9410]

The only difference between a 15 amp and 20 amp receptacle is the t slot on the neutral side. The interior on both is the same copper, just the face of the receptacle is different. ASK MIKE HOLT !

[@quinton1661]

Not only that, but no device with only vertical blades can be rated for more than 15 A. The whole thing is a moot point since a 15 A receptacle will not allow 20 A plugs to fit.

[@teardowndan5364]

@@quinton1661 Guess you have never used a power strip or any other similar outlet multiplication device before despite the equipment manufacturer's warning against plugging into extensions or other similar devices. Now the same 15A outlet may have any combination of devices drawing a combined total up to the breaker's trip current connected to it. When using power strips and similar devices, the onus is on the user to keep tabs on how much combined current may be on each outlet and keep the continuous load under 12A.

[@teardowndan5364]

The cheapest 15A outlets are really designed for only 15A. You have to go up at least one notch on the quality ladder ($0.50-$1 extra) to get the beefier 20A innards.

[@anthonysmith9410]

@@teardowndan5364 just don’t buy your electrical at Home Depot!

[@thompsonhandymanservices6088]

And that's a fact! Have no idea what this guy is talking about complete ridiculousness.

[@christopherconley7785]

I'm remodeling a double wide and putting 20 amp breakers in. Thanks to you, I'll make sure my recepticals are 20 amp.

[@mj9092]

Wow! 30 years in and finally retired. I have tried so many times to explain this to folks. Sweet video! 9 times out of 10... OK 99.99 times out of 100 it was that damn space heater it the bedroom. Thank god I learned how to bend pipe lol..

[@charlescoonce2437]

Great video! I just wanted to clarify that duplex receptacles are considered a "multiple receptacle" in the NEC. So even if there is only one duplex receptacle it is considered two or more receptacles.

[@DrippiBean]

I believe he was referring a single round receptacle not a duplex when he said that

[@jeremywatts2768]

This should be a sticky because its a very overlooked point. I guess a single receptacle on a 20a circuit isn't supposed to be shared. Also, use premium/commercial receptacles that have backwire connections. I wasn't surprised to find my dedicated 15a duplex receptacle for the fridge on a 20a circuit - backstabbed FFS! Maybe 12ga was allowed for backstabbing in the 80's. The fridge says it draws 11.6 amps, but I think that is peak. I've been replacing everything with commercial-grade backwired versions.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

@@jeremywatts2768 I wouldn't be so hasty to start replacing every receptacle in my home with top dollar premium devices. Most of my receptacles never see anything like constant plugging and unplugging, though it's a good idea in some situations like kitchens, garages, hallways, and areas where you know you're constantly or at least often change what is being utilized.

[@jeremywatts2768]

@@darrendolphdragos9752 They're not that expensive, plus some of the higher quality features make them easier to install. Just using "commercial" grade units and medical grade ones you find in the hospitals. I've done 55+ in my house and several of them were blown out/cracked but they were 40 years old. Some were commercial units of the time. You still aren't supposed to BS 12ga in these. I think its because the tight fit will cause cracking with heat cycles. Its good to take a close look at your infrastructure and make sure they'll last the next 40.

[@MikesToolShed]

Dude thank you, was just involved in an argument about this last week. Actually didn't realize the answer was in the NEC

[@illbeyourmonster1959]

I've always been frustrated by how many electricians do not know their codebooks either. A fast test to see if your electrician is on the good just ask him if you can look up something in his codebook. IF they say they don't have it with them and haven't carried it for years or it's years out of date, fire them.

[@MikesToolShed]

@@illbeyourmonster1959 a lot of inspectors around these parts will ask you to look up things just to test you, in this case I knew the answer, I just had a different, round about way of explaining it. Like how no standard plug appliance is ever going to exceed 15A, if you want to an 1800 or 2000 watt appliance you need a 5-20R.

[@rupe53]

NEC doesn't usually answer questions, because if you do it by code you won't have a problem in the first place.

[@rupe53]

@@MikesToolShed ... BTW, 1800 watt hand held hair driers are now a thing, although hard to find. They will plug into a standard outlet. 1800 watts is exactly 15 amps so a little dicey on a 15 amp circuit.

[@MikesToolShed]

@@rupe53 I've seen things rated at 1800w, but I was always suspicious of that. I feel like the 1800w companies are just "one-upping" the other companies with a 1500w rating. Like how a shop vacs claim 6HP and the working load is 10-12A not 35 or 40.

[@EL-9999]

Thank you!! I need this information. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@eduardomirafuentes1420]

Glad you talked about this. Not everyone has central ac

[@chz420]

It's been my understanding that a 15A and a 20A receptacle have the same exact internals, at least when using a reputable brand. The only difference in a 20A receptacle is the addition of the horizontal slot (in USA) and it is the responsibility of the manufacturer of a product that is likely to draw loads exceeding 12A to give it a plug with one of the prongs oriented horizontally, as to be impossible to plug into a 15A receptacle.

[@ssponaugle]

You cannot put a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp breaker. If you install a 20 amp receptacle then that means it is capable of delivering what a 20 amp device with a right angle prong on it would draw. So what I am saying is you cannot just install 20 amp receptacles everywhere unless you put it on a 20 amp breaker.

[@chuckholmes2075]

absolutely

[@BabyGators]

There’s someone on here who tears them down and I believe there are actually beefier internals on 20s on Eatons. Might be wrong about that though

[@hollytimlick9470]

Actually you can put a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp breaker, its just not the other way around. The contacts inside of a 20 amp outlet is made with thicker brass metal that can withstand higher current, is the reason why they recommend it on a 20 amp circuit, but it is no different if it was on a 15 amp circuit. Also 20 amp recipticals are built stronger, and can take a little bit more wear and tear. Yeah the price is a bit higher, but its a better investment in the long run. My man completely rewired his home using all 20 amp rated outlets on 15 amp circuits, had it passed with no issues even using #12 gauge cu wire. Now its ready for a change over if he had to. If he really had to change from a 15 amp to a 20 amp breaker, is all set to do. Just remember 15 amp circuits must use no smaller then #14 guage, and #12 gauge on 20. 30 amp no smaller then # 8 gauge, and so on. My better half had received a call on a pair of 30 amp breaker, and the guy asked him if he could use #12 gauge, my man said HELL NO! You need to use 8/3 with ground if its for 220/240 V. So yes you can use a 20 amp rated reciptical on a 15 amp breaker, it is 100% safe to do so. Just can't use a 15 amp rated reciptical on a 20 amp breaker. You can use 12 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuit, just not 14 gauge on a 20 amp circuit. As a rule of thumb, if you run more then 150 ft of #14 gauge on 15 amp, then run #12 gauge instead. Hope this helps, cheers🍻🍻 I forgot to mention: My better half did an experiment with a 15 amp outlet, he ran a regular room air conditioner on a 20 amp breaker using 12 gauge cu wire, using a 15 amp outlet for just a few hours. The results where that, he almost called the fire department! All new fully checked fine before he ran the air. The result was one fully melted outlet, and a strong burning smell coming from the box. When he switched out the outlet with a 20 amp rated one, no issues! Again highly NOT recommend of using any 15 amp rated outlet on 20 amp circuit! Of all things it was a single circuit, on a new room air conditoner. Its rating was single circuit, 15 amp, 120v AC. Also a word to note. You can run a 15 amp air conditioner on 20 amp breaker.

[@chz420]

@@hollytimlick9470 You're very wrong on many accounts. First off, it depends which manufacturer you are buying receptacles from, any reputable dealer such as pass & seymour (legrand) will have exact internals on their 15a receptacles and 20a receptacles. As is stated in my original comment, the only difference is which faceplate you get. On a branch circuit with just one receptacle, it shall be rated no less than the branch circuit rating. Article 210.21(B)(1). On a branch circuit with 2 or more receptacles, which device you use is dependent on the maximum cord-and-plug-connected load. For example, 15 amp receptacles are to be used on both 15a and 20a circuits, provided the maximum load is no more than 12a. Article 210.21(B)(2). This ensures you can use 15a receptacles where appropriate such as kitchens and dining rooms, where any individual load will not exceed 12a. 30a branch circuits are to use 10 wire minimum, not 8. Article 210.24 As per Article 210.21(B)(3) You are never permitted to install a 20a receptacle on a 15a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles. On 20a branch circuits, you can use 15a or 20a receptacles based on their maximum loads as stated in 210.21(B)(2). I believe your story about the air conditioner, I see these problems a lot myself in the field. I would fault a handyman installed home depot receptacle, or the air conditioner itself is overdrawing its maximum current. Code talk aside, wiring your whole house in 12 wire is a complete waste of money. Why wouldn't he put 20amp breakers if he was planning to do so? Ran out of money after spending it all on 12 wire I guess. There's absolutely nothing safer about running 12 wire on 15 amp circuits, any electrician trying to sell you this crap is a con. Get a better price. If you aren't absolutely sure of what you are doing, leave the work to the professionals. Or don't, I don't really care, just more work for me going around fixing these handyman fuck ups.

[@PhantomWorksStudios]

Rule of thumb don't always trust the codes!!! If it says you can use 15 or 20 amp receptacles on a 20 amp line/breaker then just stick with 20 amps receptacles!!. Code also says that the backstabs on receptacles are also allowed and up to code, yet they tend to come loose and can cause a fire in which you should always make sure the wires are screwed into the receptacles period! Also as pup seen this in the past. Pup has seen a mixture of 15 amps wires (14awg) and 20 amp wires(12 awg) on a 15 amp breaker and a 20 amp breaker. So what pup does is simple. As long as everything on that circuit say is 20 amps then use a 20 amp breaker. If you have anything that is 15 amps then use a 15 amp breaker. Never ever install anything that is rated lower then what the breaker is. Also if the wire/circuit has a mixture of 15 amps (14 awg) or 20 amps( 12awg) then make sure a 15 amp breaker is installed or have the wires/line replaced with either all 14 or 12 gauge wires with their breaker respectfully installed on that wire/line

[@michael.a.covington]

Good point about backstabs or backwired receptacles. A few minutes of playing with one on my desk, trying to pull the wires out (and succeeding!), convinced me to use only the screws on the side.

[@PhantomWorksStudios]

@@michael.a.covington yeah and sadly it's Ul and nec electorial code approved... I've never used back stabs and never will!!

[@dreonphlatamus]

@@PhantomWorksStudios you said "Rule of thumb don't always trust the codes!!! " How is that a rule of thumb ? It does not give you clarity on when to , or when not to trust the code. A rule of thumb is something more like saying 1 inch per 1 ft , is how you determine the floor joist size you need .

[@danm8662]

thanks for doing such a good job making this understandable. No doubt you may have saved a few lives

[@mattf2545]

This answers so many questions. Thx 🍻

[@argekay1960]

The way I read the code is if you have a 20a circuit and a simplex receptacle, it must be rated at 20a. But a duplex receptacle, even if it is the only device on a 20a circuit, may be rated for 15a because there are two outlets on that device. Therein lies the trap for that device. It may inadvertantly be overloaded by two high amp draw power consumers.

[@dummptyhummpty]

My house (built in 2018), has a dedicated 20 amp circuit for something and it has a 15 amp duplex receptacle. I’d say you may be right.

[@louf7178]

Sure wish it was written that way. Simplex distinguishes between a single simplex-unit compared to a single duplex-unit.

[@benjurqunov]

Still wont make any difference. The contacts within a 20A receptacle are not any beefier. Just oriented differently.

[@tiggeroush]

On a 20 amp branch circuit. If it is more than a single receptacle it can be 15 or 20 amps. 2020 NEC 210.21(B)(3) and Table 210.21(B)(3). However if it is only a single receptacle it must be 20 amps. NEC 210.21(B)(1).

[@darbyl3872]

When the code says single receptacle "or outlet", that tells me my teacher was right. A duplex receptacle is not a single, but two receptacles, with respect to the code.

[@MrTom38ncalif]

Great advice - a couple of thoughts tangental to the discussion. Spend the extra money and get high quality outlets - the 89 cent outlets are not the way to go. Consider Hospital grade outlets (15 or 20 amp depending on wiring/breaker) and you will never ever have to replace again . Furthermore, the plug will never pull out of the wall - just look at the specs on these outlets. Do it once, spend a little more and never go back knowing you and your family safe and sound. Does a extra 4 bucks make you sleep well at night, I know it does for me, but then again thats my opinion. Cheers!

[@rogersmith7396]

I get Leviton cheap.

[@cheryljason9617]

LoL you clearly don't own a business that cost added up over a whole neighborhood or a apartment building... adds up and with every builder bust balls over every penny well you save money where you can...

[@FOH3663]

Another legit consideration; the clamping force associated with a Hospital Grade device, creates unintentional wear and tear on the cords during unplugging. Sure, those in the industry are aware, ... however, many individuals simply tug as hard as needed on the cord itself (as opposed to the cord cap) to unplug... leading to stretching, exposed insulation, partial fraying, etc.

[@johnchristmas7522]

Your codes seem woefully weak in relation to manufacture of electrical products. What would a poor worker in a slave factory, in another country know about electrical items-all he's worried about is selling them. I have another question, do your fire and insurance codes allow such crap?

[@cheryljason9617]

@@johnchristmas7522 knows everything there is to know about everything amd if you don't do it the Christmas way is wrong and you're a hack ... this dude most likely couldn't make as a electrician and pulls security wire ...

[@michaelogden5958]

Dude, I want to tell you that I think your channel absolutely rocks. I've been doing some electrical PM around my 60 year-old house, keeping in mind that codes have changed and that my "horse trading" dad (RIP, you rascal!) might have influenced things not necessarily for the better. Anyhow, your wheat from the chaff presentations have helped a lot. Cheers!

[@DocCinn]

Excellent and useful video! Thank you!

[@rpavlik1]

I was under the impression that the 15A receptacles are actually built to handle 20A but just don't have the 20A faceplate on it. I had figured that melted outlets were from multiple things plugged in or from increased contact resistance from worn out receptacles. Is that true?

[@illbeyourmonster1959]

Yes. Context of the load matters a lot.

[@dracula3811]

Loose connections play a big part as well

[@benjurqunov]

Yes 100%. Identical internal parts. Only different orientation. Melted receptacles are most always loose or otherwise resistive connection of the plug blade or the wire connection.

[@Sparky-ww5re]

I always was under that impression as well. If you look very closely at the new 2 slot receptacles (FYI they are still manufactured today, for replacement use only, on older circuits where no equipment ground is available, ) the receptacle front is shaped much like your standard 15 amp grounding receptacles, only the round ground slot had been covered over, and the green grounding screw is not in the threaded hole near the bottom of the receptacle.

[@FOH3663]

Yes correct, the difference being a single, high current "20a load", can only be plugged into a 20a device. This assures safety of the wiring.

[@triggerhappybuilds5814]

The joy of living in a country with 240v power, our typical receptacles are 10 Amps so we have 2400W available vs 1650W from a 110v 15 Amp. Also less loss of power during transmission

[@rich7447]

Transmission voltage is much higher than 240V (local is normally close to 14kV, long distance are usually in the 200kV to 500kV, but can be much higher). Most homes built in the last 25 years have receptacles wired with 12 gauge which gives you a maximum wattage identical to your 240V @ 10A circuit. We also have the option of using the same two conductors (12-2 Romex is usually rated for 600V) + ground in a 240V @ 20A circuit. All we have to do is install a double slot breaker, connect the neutral to the second terminal on the breaker and install a Nema 6-20R receptacle.

[@TomCee53]

@@rich7447it’s also a decent idea to mark that white conductor as carrying current with red or black tape or heat shrink.

[@rich7447]

@@TomCee53 Definitely.

[@jso567]

Thank you for all your great videos and the knowledge . Can 15 amp receptacle and the 15 amp breaker but both change to 20 amp receptacle and breaker?

[@MandrewP]

The wiring would have to be 20A as well.

[@MyClutteredGarage]

Thank you for answering this question for this everyday non-electrician. -Ed

[@jakesully5402]

It’s neat how different countries have different systems. In Canada, it is common that our breakers are designed to trip at 80% of their rated value. Essentially it takes the brainwork away from the end consumer…

[@ThatLazenbyGuy]

That's the way it is here too. I'm shocked at the number of comments praising this video when it's factually wrong in so many regards 😅

[@Galgamoth]

that's all residential breakers, commercial are rated for full load. and there are no Canadian breakers, they are the same as the US.

[@justinweiss3193]

Question: Using both terminal screws of the outlet to continue your circuit is allowed by the NEC. Yet an overdraw can cause the tabs connecting those points to weaken over time and cause arcing... My question would be why doesnt the NEC require splicing behind outlets and only allow 1 white and 1 black to a receptacle unless that receptacle had the tabs broken for a switch controller?

[@gpweaver]

"Requiring" would mean a very large number of existing circuits would need to be redone whenever any future work was done on them. And then you get the issue of box crowding, because there's only so much room in a single-gang work box. Hell, I'm glad they finally did away with push connectors on outlets. I run into so many problems with old installs that used those; I despise them.

[@armandomartinez4152]

11:14 Orale vato! with the feria

[@ArieBoyer232]

Super helpful! Just bought a house and I need to make the gaming room. This helped a lot! I was overkill it lol

[@furgy1993]

as a norwegian electrician this is kinda unheard of the "weakest" part of any circuit is always the fuse, so for instance if i have a 15A fuse, the next link should be able to handle more than 15A for x amount of time. we call them i2 and i5 ratings. and in our code we always have in our mind that the customer/owner of the building have no clue about it so we always have to think worst case scenario. but that is the difference from country tho. fun to watch and see how other countries codes

[@benjurqunov]

Swedish and US electrician here... The internal parts of the 20A receptacle are no more robust than a 15A, Only oriented differently, essentially identical. The ”weak link” is still the overcurrent device. Btw, My observation of this guy.. His videos are not that bad, but explains many things poorly.

[@TheEulerID]

A good principle, but it doesn't extend beyond the power socket. The thin cable on a table lamp won't be rated for 15A. In theory, a fault could develop where a current which exceeds the cord rating could be carried but not trip the 15A breaker. Personally, I like the flexibility of a high current circuit with multiple outlets in somewhere like a kitchen, as you can run a kettle, toaster, microwave at the same time without worrying that they might all be on the same 15A circuit. Yes, you can have multiple circuits, but then you have to be aware which socket is on which. The answer to this is simple. Have a plug system with an internal fuse rated to the appliance and cord, and you can then have as high a current rating as the infrastructure wiring for the circuit allows, but such wiring systems are rare in the world.

[@hithere7382]

@@TheEulerID My house built in AR in 2000/2001 has 20a breakers and no. 12 wire for everything but only the lighting circuits are on 15a breakers. The rest is all 20a. eg, there is a bank of 15a but they're all for overhead lights and ceiling fans etc and not receptacles.

[@johnchristmas7522]

As an electrician in the UK, I was always told, wire for idiots! and still the public do crazy things-read my previous posts!

[@furgy1993]

@@johnchristmas7522 oh we have the same mentality lol always expect an monkey to be the end user