Wood Finishing How-To: Hand-Rubbed Tung Oil Varnish on Walnut

[@sureshot311]

These finishing videos are an incredible resource. I am just finishing up my first Walnut piece and was contemplating trying out Tung oil. So to see this made me very happy. Thank you!

[@gravybones8564]

sureshot311 this isn’t Tung Oil, it’s Tung Oil varnish. If you have the time use Tung Oil instead...way worth the wait and multiple coats.

[@itwasmattgregg]

@@gravybones8564 What's the cure time difference for regular tung oil?

[@waynewatters9283]

I refinished a gunstock my great grandfather gave me in 1976 with tung oil. After eight sandings and coats, the final coat of oil was rubbed in with a solid rubber pad. The finish is still deep and lustrous even to this day.

[@jamesnasmith984]

Easy flowing, clear, fact-packed presentation. Everything connects. Great job.

[@skelletorjo3227]

The Walnut desk top is just unbelievably beautiful. Thank you so much for the video.

[@margaretthompson4982]

Hi, your table looks amazing. I’ve used tung oil on my dining table. I’ve sanded between coats. I’ve applied the last coat it seems to be taking ages to dry. How long should I leave it to dry before I use the polishing compound. This is the first time I’ve done anything like this, a bit scary trying to get the same finish as you. Any hints that will help me.

[@angiegallegos1478]

Thank you for sharing. I followed your guidance to restore a sewing cabinet from 1937 and I have so many people on forums asking me how I did it. I’m referring them to your video now.

[@garyschneider1782]

The author does like to from scratch, kzbin.infoUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.

[@fredford7642]

Beautiful table top, and grat information on hand rubbing, which will go well with a finish on a favorite rifle. Thank you for a good and informative video.

[@222_games]

Incredible video, came here after seeing the Ultimate Guide to Walnut video. I'm going to finish a European Walnut piece and use as a desktop. Have never wood finished anything before so this is a great resource. Definitely going tung oil varnish and wet-sanding.. Thanks!!

[@CarlYota]

I'm going to try this finish on a curly maple box that I made. I ordered the Old Masters and it's coming today. Excited to try it out tonight.

[@hangdogit]

Very thorough video showing lots of details and workmanship! The only thing I can add is to use a Tack Cloth to remove all dust after sanding (didn't see that in video). And I've used Howards stuff -- great product but never tried it on new work. Good ideaa!

[@JK-vr8ko]

Big Wow on finishing vid! Patience +consistency = quality here!

[@AmNothi]

one of the better videos I've found on this process. Thanks!

[@oldwillie313]

You have the very best videos on you tube! Thanks. You have helped me take my wood projects to another level.

[@aaronwilson1025]

This is my favourite finish for walnut. Much more modern than all of the darker finishes.

[@markharris5771]

What an absolutely gorgeous piece of contemporary furniture. Thank you for a very helpful video.

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Wonderful, glad it's helped you. Thanks for checking it out!

[@timothymatthews4399]

Dear woodworker source, I'm working on a western red alder telecaster guitar body from supra-tone.com and I want to stay natural with it if I can. My strategy so far has been to sand very thoroughly up to around 800 grit. I then wiped thoroughly with Naptha. That dried for a day. Then I added amber liquid tint from stewmac.com to Minwax Tung oil finish. I probably added about 5 drops of amber liquid tint to 3 ounces tung oil finish. It mixed well together. Then I flooded the wood with tinted Minwax , and wiped off 1 hour later. Then I wiped more Minwax on as a light coat and let dry at room temp for 24 hours (all dry steps dry @ room temp 68-70F for 24 hours and ~ 70% humidity.) Then I scuffed kind of "medium lightly" with 0000 wool and wiped on thin coat of tinted Minwax tung oil. Now I'm repeating the wipe on a thin layer, let dry for 24 hours, scuff, and repeat. I'll probably do 12-15 coats. I want a relatively durable shield that won't mark up a lot if rested on the floor or rubbed with a plastic button from a shirt sleeve on the strumming hand orglancing blows from a Nylon pick (there is a pickguard of course.) I want a glossy finish as possible with Tung oil finish. I plan to use the polishing compound as you suggest at the end of the dozen or so Minwax tung oil finish. Do you think this process will achieve a decent glossy somewhat durable finish? Thank you, Tim

[@breconbeacons21]

Just tried this method on a couple of cookie-slice coffee tables I'm making from some Larch pieces I found lying around after some tree-felling on a hiking route - absolutely fantastic finish! Many thanks for at last giving me the finishing technique I've been looking for!

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

that's great to hear, thanks!

[@bobbymcelvany2980]

So much to learn here,great information! Will watch your videos over and over to let it all sink in.I love working with walnut wood.

[@stevenPknowledge]

Thanks for a great, step by step video. I used your process on my walnut live edge slab table and I couldn't be happier with it. Thanks again.

[@CarlYota]

Having used a quart of this stuff on half a dozen projects I would make two points. After applying a coat and letting it sit a few minutes, be sure to wipe off any product that didn't soak in. Do so thoroughly with a dry cotton shirt material. This is not a typical film finish where it dries on the surface and hardens. If you don't wipe it off it will dry and never harden. It will feel sticky even after weeks. It's fully dry but won't ever harden like this. And I'm not talking about leaving a noticeable coat on the surface, but rather just insufficiently wiping off the stuff that didn't soak in. It's super important that the drying rag be absorbent so it actually soaks up the excess tung oil. This is especially true for something like a table top where you're going to put 8 to 10 coats on. Do not let it sit on the surface and dry, wipe it off. Second point would be that this stuff doesn't dry all that hard. You can easily scratch it with light finger nails dragging across the surface. This is true on maple, at least. I also finished some hickory pieces with this but they aren't two weeks old yet so can't tell if it's the softer maple that's susceptible to this or all wood. Hickory is quite hard so I assume it would fair better but maple is closer to walnut than walnut is to hickory in this regard. In any case my point is that I wouldn't recommend this for table tops. I did a small maple desktop with it and will not be using this again for any surface that sees lots of wear. Luckily its a computer desk and I use a mousepad so there won't be anything happening that would scratch it badly. For any surface you plan on writing on or eating on I would look elsewhere. All in all, it's fine, especially for small projects or projects that won't get touched a lot. But I'm going to look for a more durable rub on finish for future projects.

[@kenhugen285]

Dude! Great video! Most KZbin creators have all the table saw montage, or all the actual woodworking montage. But you’re finishing is amazing and probably one of the bigger things that’s overlooked in woodworking. I am a beginner to novice. After your first video I liked and subscribed and look forward to more of your videos! Nobody likes to sand or finish, but if you don’t do it>……………………….

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

🫡🫡 agreed thank you

[@joer5627]

I have plans for a book case with walnut I purchased from you. Now I know how I will finish it. Thank you

[@pas0003]

Fantastic finish and a great video! A pleasure to watch, thanks!

[@giannicarlo]

Very nice. Thanks for demonstrating the polishing compound. In the past I've used pumice and rottenstone. Tried some polishing compound and the results were great.

[@andrewpensavalle2282]

I think this is one of your best, Mark. Really informative and illustrates techniques very well. I only wish I had your patience............of course I wish I had your youth too.

[@AlZakhi]

Well done, amazing work. I did finishing like in part 2 exactly like you many times, I did it with liquid laquer (not spray), 6-7 layers with intermediate sanding. It gives very good result in 100 cases of 100. Thank you

[@mymatemartin]

Great video. Well produced with clear instruction and information. Thanks.

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Thanks!

[@dannmarks]

I am a pretty good wood worker... Finishing has been my area of weakness. Thank you.

[@miamitreasurehunter]

Beautifully done and very well presented. Thanks for sharing !

[@eddietate4102]

Thanks for great video! I just finished a popular coffee table with tung oil and went back to the garage to do some additional wet sanding! I can already tell the difference. Much appreciated!

[@SinnerSince1962]

Very impressive! Wood is such a beautiful medium.

[@slappy1965]

I've watched this video and your Finish Mahogany with Tung Oil on the smaller table top. I like the natural look you're getting, with slightly darkened hues. I'm wondering if wet sanding with tung oil on an African Mahogany exterior storm door would be suggested, followed by few layers of spar varnish. Or, would you recommend simply applying some grain filler to some oil-based stain for filling the porous grains and achieving similar tones? If yes to the latter, would recommend something like Old Masters wiping stain, or a oil-based penetrating stain? Keep up the videos! Your team does a great job communicating and showing things very clear and detailed manner.

[@MrBotag]

This was a great video, and will help me the first time I use the tung oil I recently acquired. Thanks!

[@thecrazyisreal]

breadboard baby! That will fix all your cupping problems. That finish though... blew my mind.

[@freebeing5765]

i am totally impressed. this is an incredibly well executed video seems like you found your calling & i am grateful

[@todddavis6971]

Nice narrative for your finish. I don’t think the polish will endure though. Thought I was gonna see card scraping...but card scraped walnut is a whole different league of finish though. Get a card scraper, elbow grease and pure tung oil and air dried black walnut

[@pekemo]

When using plain-sawn lumber, you can minimize the cupping in multi-board glueups by alternating the grain pattern of boards. Hard to explain without a picture. One bark side up, the next one bark side down, the next bark side up, etc.

[@leslieroberts6029]

Thank you for the video! This is helpful as I start the process on my walnut dining top today.

[@squifty]

Thank you for your instructional video. I just made a small oak/walnut box and following your instructions to the last detail I have made it absolutely beautiful with Tung Oil Varnish. I did have one question though, I've just applied the final 8th coat and I'm currently leaving it to cure for a week. I have not done anything else after applying last coat, and it looks absolutely beautiful, almost lustrous, and I'm satisfied with how it looks. Is there anything wrong with leaving it as-is? Will it retain its current luster without any additional buffing and adding Restore A Shine? Thanks again for your in-depth instructions, I think I've found a new favorite finish.

[@jasonmcmahon9901]

Great video! So clearly laid out and explained. I just followed these steps to refinish a mid-century walnut coffee table. I started with a coat of sanding sealer, then a coat of woodgrain filler tinted with wiping stain, then I applied 8 coats of tung oil varnish (waiting at least 6 hours between coats), sanding lightly between coats with the medium abrasive pad, and then a long round of going over the table with both the medium and then light abrasive pads at the end. I didn't add any polishing compound at the end. Now, a full month after the final coat of varnish, the table has the feel of a high quality glossy photo print: very tacky, almost sticky to the touch; if you put your hand on it, it feels like it will leave a handprint, even though it doesn't. Is this what it's supposed to feel like? It's an unsatisfying feeling for a table top, tacky, plus it's a total dust magnet. Thoughts? Advice? Will adding the polishing compound solve everything?

[@CafeenMan]

What did you do about the cupping? Is it mounted to cross pieces that flatten out the top? There are two things I recommend. First, you can get by with A LOT less compound - like 1/4th what you used. Also you would probably save some money buying pumice, rotten stone and oil over pre-mixed stuff. In all cases a little goes a long way and it buffs out faster when you use less.

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Yes, exactly, the top is fastened down to cross pieces. RE: compound, noted. Thanks!

[@GNieddu1]

Would planing work for this problem, or is it unnecessary given the support beneath? I suppose it would be a lot of work, since most of us won't have access to an electric planer, but would it stop the cupping, or would it just deform again after the planing?

[@drewt3210]

@@GNieddu1 Planing may flatten it, but you'd end up with a top that's very thin at the edges. And it'd likely cup again as you've just relieved a bunch of new stressed fibers. It's thin and flexible enough as is, so best to simply fasten it as he did.

[@patnewnam5717]

The cupping is a result of unequal drying. Drying creates shrinkage. A finished side will inhibit drying due to the sealing properties of the finish. If both top and bottom are finished at the same time, the cupping forces are equalized.

[@fododude]

@@GNieddu1 The trick is making sure the wood is equilibrated to the room's moisture content. When it has done so, flatten and square the boards with a jointer. Then do the glue-up. Then plane to the desired thickness. If the board is cupping it is because it is equilibrating to a new ambient moisture content, or it was put together without equilibrating first.

[@matto29]

Terrific video, can't wait to try this finish on my upcoming project!

[@bossqian]

Very nice job. Thanks for sharing. Wonder if can use this way for dining table.

[@utahnick]

Nice work, beautiful finish!

[@robertbrunston5406]

Very nice finish! Thanks.

[@thesage1096]

it was a lot of work but It came out amazing. ur a craftsman

[@norocketsciencebuild5371]

Hi, I tried applying danish oil on my worktop and after the third coat, the surface feels sticky to touch, any suggested solution and why it feels sticky?

[@Simplecove]

Such an awesome video. Thanks for sharing! I've got to give that polish a try.

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Thank you

[@chicomalo4862]

Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish is mostly linseed-based with 2-5% tung oil. I love it and use it a lot, but I don't understand the name. Favorite finish: Wet sand with pure tung oil or a tung/citrus mix then top it off with thin layers of Old Masters.

[@RayVillares]

Killer!! Love this and I can't wait to try it.

[@philfrank9483]

Awesome finish! Finishing generally scares me so your videos give me the encouragement I need after all the cutting and gluing are done. I'm curious how you handle the underside. Rule off thumb I've had for a while is that what ever you do to the top, you should do to the bottom to prevent uneven moisture levels in the woods over time. How do you typically handle that when you have 3 to 4 weeks invested in just the one side?

[@danladden3311]

Beautiful wood and an awesome, really helpful explanation! Would you recommend the same process for a wood jewelry box? I'm working with a naturally deep colored walnut contrasted with spalted birch and trying to decide on the perfect finish for a rich, gleaming finish.

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

You bet, it would look great

[@annelisecarleton-hug7518]

What a beautiful desk! I love the finish. I'm about to tackle an island countertop made from a slab of cherry wood. Would you recommend this method for use on a kitchen island that will likely receive lots of food (mess) action and possible liquids. I guess my main question is: does this finish hold up to daily wear in a kitchen? THanks for your clear explanation and wonderful inspiration!

[@erzincanli]

Very great video and professional work

[@blackemmons]

Great looking piece. Always enjoys your vids. JimE

[@MattMediaAU]

Hi there, this is my first major fine finish project and I am happy to practice on spare pieces but want to know if I'm on. The right track. I am building hifi speakers. ( in order to get them in the lounge they must look good-wife). I have applied Walnut veneer to MDF and wish to finish it. May I ask if my plan is correct: -fill cracks with putty and sand these flat. -Leave veneer unsanded and apply sanding sealer. Scuff sand. -apply mix of Tung oil/thinners/eurothane and wet sand with steel wool to fill grain. ( There is no premixed Tung varnish in Australia) - apply additional coats of mix with rags and scuff sand with steel wool when dry -if required apply furniture polish. I am hoping this finish will be tough enough to resist a wet cup if someone places one on top before I can stop them and looks natural ( I'm. To big on the wrapped in resin look for finished wood) Really appreciate your advice-hard to find info on finishing veneer as opposed to solid wood.

[@annmullen1117]

Hi there! Great video! I just got a walnut table and I'm debating between the tung oil finish or using the rubio monocoat. The advantage of the latter is that it's only one coat! Any opinions? Thanks!

[@jakebryant3444]

Great video, any tips or recommendations if I am using Red Oak for my desktop?

[@LostMountainRestoration]

Great job again. Your video skills are also outstanding!

[@aurelioiraci]

Lost Mountain Restoration m

[@richardmadsen115]

Great video. Your explanations of the steps was very helpful. I am having a hard time finding dye, where do you go to purchase the product?

[@user-nk6zc7po9i]

Thank You for your video, I am finishing a 16" x 16" black walnut base for a display box or a glass sculpture glued to the wood. Once finished I won't be able to open the box again. Will this type of finish yellow or fade with exposure to the sun or other light.

[@raffigarabedian3]

I'm working on a live edge slab walnut dining table. My primary concern is maintaining no cupping once secured to the legs I've ordered. I'm leaning towards using neutral Danish Oil and then some sort of poly. I'd love if you can suggest what you'd use to finish. Love your channel - easily the most informative i've found. Thanks.

[@Sundardevsaha-e3k]

Thank you so very kindly for posting this video! Very helpful!

[@DanielPaprocki]

I love this effect 😍😄

[@funkymonkeylovin]

A lot of great tips here! Thanks!

[@winterhellercru2538]

Hi mister. I am very impress with your fine work. Keep it up! I actually have some question about the wood finishing (I am an amateur btw). How to know that the varnish is a kind of food friendly?

[@brianlee6849]

Very nice 👍! Would this also work for a walnut gun stock? Will this protect well for protection from the elements? What about long term maintenance? If you were doing a walnut gun stock would you do it this way? I love the look! Thanks for sharing

[@meanders9221]

This is like a master course in finishing! I think Waterlox and other tung oil-varnish blends recommend 8-10 coats but I've never gotten past 6 myself. And haven't tried polish, I usually go straight to wax applied with #0000 steel wool. But that desktop sure looked great, and I'll bet it feels great too. I assume all that rubbing, scuffing, wet sanding is the reason you don't need to sand past 220?

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Wow, that's quite a compliment! Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. I'm with you, on other projects, christening the whole enchilada with a coat of wax is a very nice touch (and nice *to* the touch!). I can't say I have any particular reason for not putting on a coat on this one. Other than it doesn't strike me that wax adds anything to a desk top that's going to get used daily. Arguably it'll only cause more work when it comes time to give this finish a refresh with a new coat of varnish (would have to remove remaining traces of wax first). But that doesn't make it wrong to do a coat of wax! Just choices. Wood finishing is just a series of choices. Likewise, regarding your question about sanding, I could have sanded the wood finer. Perfectly acceptable to do so. To some degree, I suppose you're right, all the work on the subsequent layers rendered finer sanding kind of needless. On the other hand, I think my choice has to do with what the project at hand demands. On a desk top, let's not go *too* overboard, you know? But I'd probably sand finer on something like a jewelry box I would give to a family member or something like that. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it!

[@alfbuz524]

vr 360

[@alfbuz524]

vr 360

[@alixsnyder9322]

Good video, just making one of these with the same MRMDF. could you tell me which varnish you find suitable for the top please? Didn't really think about a finish until I watched your film. Looks good the the trim too, think I will be adding this to mine. Cheers Rich.

[@MatricsImporting]

Wonderful job, Beautiful walnut! I am making some maple desk/bookshelf combos and plan on using a water based dye finish. I want this type of finish since it is similar to the finish we have on some Hooker furniture bookshelves. Will this finish work with water based wood dye? I want the water based dye so the finish color penetrates the wood instead of laying on top like most oil based stains. Thanks, Bob

[@EagleKeeper86]

I’m building my wife a walnut makeup vanity for her birthday this year and would love to know how this table is holding up with that finish!

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

I use it every day... you'd be surprised how nice it still looks. Perhaps it's time for a follow up video.

[@EagleKeeper86]

I would love to see how well it’s held up! Do you apply any sort of wax?

[@beachbummusic2657]

Complete beginner: I have a finger jointed Acacia tabletop. I applied 2 coats of tung oil 1 days apart and wiped off the excess with a sponge. A few weeks later, table is still relatively sticky and tacky. Otherwise happy with the finish and texture (it's a work desk, so doesn't need to be super fancy). Is two coats enough for a 1.5" top for a dry winter/humid summer environment? What is the easiest way to buff the table smooth without taking of the finish? Thanks

[@tonidon7875]

Wax on Wax off, nice polishing Mr. Miyagi ;)

[@jaquezwoodshop]

Great video! Can I apply the same steps if I use Spar Urethane? Except I usually apply 3 coats on the tabletop. And what exactly is wet sanding?

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Wet sanding = sanding while it’s wet. You gotta try it to believe it, but it has a nice grain filling effect and look. Not sure about spar urethane with this process. Haven’t done it.

[@BustersCNCchannel]

The grain on that is beautiful. Is it just me or is there a face in the grain dead centre around 8.02?

[@danaerwin3981]

I am building a a/v rack with cherry wood; it will hold stereo equipment and records. I have applied three coats of pure tung oil (diluted about 50% with mineral spirits). So far so good. I plan on applying a few (three?) additional coats with progressively less dilution. Do you recommend a clear coat over tung oil? Lacquer? Poly?

[@kellytorres51]

I purchased a beautiful joined wood table, but it's a bit sticky from the previous owner adding the wrong stuff to the finish and there is glitter stuck to the table... I'm a beginner and don't know how to sand and prep the wood before following your instructions in the video. do I just use mineral spirits to remove the gunk on the table and then sand it down to a smooth finish before following the instructions in the video? thanks for your help!

[@mosfet500]

Hi, thanks, I like this look, it brings out the highlights without over doing the contrast. One question does this finish have to be renewed like pure Tung oil?

[@bleufishtv]

I am using tung oil on a walnut guitar I’m building . It really looks beautiful . What would you recommend for a rubbing product for a high gloss punish for protection . Thanks in advance jared it’s in my photo

[@bigfishgeoff]

Hi Mark, thanks for another great video. Is there a reason I shouldn't use 400 grit sandpaper on a Walnut table top?

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Not at all. Sand to satisfaction 👍

[@marcinmerrimack1726]

What is the durability of the polishing compound finish with regard to smudging, fingerprints, water glass rings, etc… If I’m willing to give up some shine, will using just the Olde Masters give me a more maintenance-free result?

[@carolineday5406]

I need your advice. Ive watched your videos over and over but im still nervous. I have walnut kitchen cabinets from the late 60's but they look brand new. They are beautifully stained but i do not like the reddish stain look. Do i just strip them, sand and then stain and seal. It the tong oil varnish the best? Do i put a conditioner on the wood before i stain? What do i seal the cabinets with after i stain?

[@aenea22980]

Love this video! Did you do the wood polish step before or after the two weeks curing time? It didn't say in the video. Also, the directions on my tung oil say to wait 24 hours between coats, not just 6, is that normal?

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Polished after 2 weeks. Different brands will have different instructions for re-coating. Or you might have a can of pure tung oil which dries much slower and doesn't contain a varnish. The product used in this video is a "tung oil varnish" which is some mixture of tung oil, varnish, and a solvent or drier. As finishes, they do behave differently.

[@kerrypost1798]

Great video! Thank you! With all of the steps at the end to protect it, how safe would you say it is to wet drinks leaving rings or even hot cups burning it? Do I need to always be using a coaster?

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Yeah, it's still a good idea to use a coaster. I'll admit I don't always use one, and I've even spilled coffee on the desk, but it shows no rings or wear in those areas since I clean it up right away.

[@SFlores1979]

Would this also work on walnut finished plywood? Great work!

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

Yes it will

[@XxMalabooo]

When I put tung oil on birch; it gets dry and sticky fast; what do you use to “wipe it off” , like how do you buff it? Or do you just wait for it to try then sand with the fine green cloth

[@nathaneverett533]

Grey pad White pad Info? Who makes it? What grit is it? Reusable or disposable? If I'm scuffing with steel wool, what type is best? (0-0000)

[@theblackat50]

I purchased an unfinished French door. It was ready for staining. I’ve stained it with minwax stain and is allowing it to dry. In a few days I want to add a top coat so I will use tung oil. Do I just apply the tung oil to the stain coat or do I need to sand it first with a 220 grid sand paper sponge before applying the tung oil?

[@HandCraftChannel]

how stable is that finish against dishwashing detergent? I got problems with one my kitchen tabletop finished with tung oil, even small drop of detergent will make blot on it..

[@Anaeastwood]

Beautiful! Can it be done on mexican pine?

[@stevepolanskey7649]

Love the look of your finish. Do i need to fill the grain of walnut or does the wet sanding take care of that? i am doing a black walnut slab now and plan on using your method. Does the wet sanding take the place of filling the pores? I have a epoxy filled crack in the middle of the slab that i want to be able to see the red metallic swirl will the wet sanding keep that looking clear or should i stay away from that area? I'm new to finishing and need all the help I can get.

[@mick2spic]

Thank you for the video and sharing our knowledge. Finish looks great!! I have a piece that has a very nice satin poly finish on and I want to take your advice on waiting 2 weeks to cure before maybe finishing. I liked how it looked after you used that grey finishing pad. I could just use that to remove my imperfections and keep that satin finish right? Would the white finishing pad add a little more sheen, maybe a semi? Could I accomplish something similar with just wet sanding with 200 grit auto paper? Not sure what sheen I would get with that one, I'm looking for lower sheen. Any thoughts/ advice would be highly appreciated!!

[@MyGio7]

thanks for the awesome video.... can i ask? this finishing , works on soft wood as pine?

[@cherih8682]

We are refinishing a oak dinning table. We had planned to stain and polyurethane it after stripping and sanding. Then I watch your video. Would Tung Oil process work for oak table with daily use? Or is a oak wood not worth the process?

[@alancarlyon3928]

Happy with the result - I should think so with all the rubbing down you did, bet you have biceps like Popeye! Does the tung oil seal the wood? Why I am asking is that I have just ventured out in creating coffee tables from felled tree's!

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

yes, this finish seals the wood

[@Discredia]

Wish I would've seen this before polishing my little wood craft project. I just lightly applied 3 layers of oil 8 hours apart one after the other. Started as this beautiful light brown colour now it just looks like this ugly splotchy mess. I've got a dremel with a circular polish tool attachment, do you think this would help it? Or should I just try and sand down what I've got already?

[@daviddejulio863]

Thanks for this great video! Running a test finish following this process on my first walnut piece. I'd like to finish off lastly with paste wax. Do I need to wait for the full cure time before doing that or just a good day or so after the last polish?

[@gregbrucks9710]

I was going to cut a bunch of wood circles of about 15 different types of wood and cover my shop wall with them. What type of finish would you recommend.

[@matthewmerten9442]

Thanks! I followed the directions for my walnut desktop and it looks great. Is there any advantage to applying a wax like Howard citrus shield paste wax or Howard feed-n-wax? I don't want to dull the finish but I'm also interested in durability since it is a desktop.

[@gashead2]

Great video thanks, will hot drinks or wet cups cause rings in this type of finish?

[@loopylilmeeh]

I have a table made of American walnut with a matte finish but it scratches easily. any tips on getting the scratches out? THANKS!!

[@johnadams6265]

Thank you for a very informative video. I love the technique. One question; would you have any concerns using this technique with walnut veneer?

[@WoodworkersSourcecom]

John Adams sure, it'll work great on veneer too. The sanding is so fine it would take a pretty serious effort to go all the way through. If that's what you're concerned about.