Wooden Model Ship Planking: The Ultimate Guide

Рет қаралды 26,302

G Kip

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 64

@scottyshipbuilder 5 ай бұрын

Planking is an art, do it how you will. I like your method.

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Planking is definitely an art, unfortunately very little info available for newcomers. Thank You, hopefully it will be of use to someone.

@garrburton3375 5 ай бұрын

A well explained and detailed process of planking. Just back into the hobby after half a lifetime away and I found this is a great reference. Thank you for taking the time to both film it and explain it.

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful, what are you building?

@plymouthrovadventures.646 4 ай бұрын

Been building model ships all my life (86). This is the best Tutorial I have seen. chamfering the edges is also very important. I have a rule. 1 plank a day. Also a link to the Planking fan Template would be nice for beginners. A excellent video. More please.

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

@@plymouthrovadventures.646 Thank you for your kind words, its nice to know the video is useful.

@genojoe3176 5 ай бұрын

Well done, Grant! This lays it out clearly and should assist and guide beginners and pros alike.

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thanks, hopefully it will help someone.

@kevinivaska4827 4 ай бұрын

Planking has always been the most difficult part of model ship building. This is a great method I will try on my next project. Patience, patience, patience!

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Hi Kevin, Thanks I'm glad you have found the video useful

@homeharbour6238 5 ай бұрын

I like this method very much. Thank you for sharing with us. Soon I will do some scratch build "my first one" and definitely will use your method

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thanks Roman, your planking looks fine to me.

@homeharbour6238 5 ай бұрын

@@g-kip appreciate your kind words but my planking is not that technically accurate😉

@martinaalderink7773 5 ай бұрын

Nicely done Grant !!

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thanks Martin, how you keeping?

@martinaalderink7773 5 ай бұрын

@@g-kip Doing fine actually, very busy. Don`t have much time to model.

@brendanwm 13 күн бұрын

Wow, I was planning on getting into this hobby, but the thought of shaping the width of the planks never entered my mind. Length, certainly, but I guess I just assumed the widths of the supplied planks would naturally fit the model. Obviously, having seen your video, it, of course, makes sense that it would be required. Do you have to do this even with the beginner kits?

@GregWilson635 5 ай бұрын

Excellent demonstration of how to work out your planking Grant. I need all the help I can get ;)

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thanks Greg, how's Victory have you started?

@GregWilson635 5 ай бұрын

@@g-kip yes I started a few days ago. Should have the first video out this week

@wellsmarshall2297 5 ай бұрын

Excellent! Thank you very much.

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thank you I'm glad it is useful

@jamessmckay 2 ай бұрын

Excellent explanation Mr Kip!!!

@g-kip 2 ай бұрын

Hi James, thank you, I hope it was useful

@jamessmckay 2 ай бұрын

@@g-kip Very much so. My next project is to do a half hull planing exercise.

@JayJSMN-tz1nv 5 ай бұрын

Nicely done!!👍👍

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Thank You

@gazzarose6296 Ай бұрын

Thank you for sharing this

@g-kip Ай бұрын

Your welcome.

@edminas3159 Ай бұрын

Thank you. Most helpful

@g-kip Ай бұрын

Im Glad it was useful, thank you.

@goforitpainting 4 ай бұрын

Have a great build.

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Thank you

@robertsalanon2909 2 ай бұрын

Travail interessant pour ceux qui débutent ...Congrest ...

@g-kip 2 ай бұрын

Salut Robert, Merci pour votre commentaire

@michaelfox8908 5 ай бұрын

just getting started in model building, I appreciate your attention to detail. I am curious about drop planks. Good idea. It occurrs to me, If 2 thin planks are greater than 5mm, going from 3 to 2 would work better?

@g-kip 5 ай бұрын

Hi Michael, as far as im aware a drop plank only takes the place of two thinner planks, you will find most kits are supplied with 5mm timber for planking, I also think you may find anything bigger would look out of scale obviously dependant upon the scale of the model

@Юрий-т2л9ш 4 ай бұрын

Bellisimo meister, thanks 😊❤🎉😅😊

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Thank you

@timhodgson7716 2 ай бұрын

Great video

@g-kip 2 ай бұрын

Hi Tim, Thanks

@wvanginkel5572 4 ай бұрын

Hi - Excellent video and highly appreciated! Quick question: the plank bender device (the 'heated stick with the yellow handle') you use at the end of the video, what is that actually called? And do you have a brand I can search for? I use a special plank bending plier for now, but I like your method better. Thanks!

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Thank you, its a plank bender, amzn.to/46yHgP2 (links to the product)

@tomt9543 3 ай бұрын

You mention a second episode of this planking operation, but I’m seeing it in your “home page”. Is it still in the works? Very good explanation of a complex subject! Thanks!

@g-kip 3 ай бұрын

Hi Tom, sorry I've been distracted with the HMS Victory model,

@TheReadDesultory 7 күн бұрын

Just another fan eagerly anticipating part 2. Thanks so much for the concise step-by-step instructions.

@D-B-Cooper 4 ай бұрын

Laying out planks on a full size boat you mark out the planks on the center rib like you did but the width varies to wide under the turn of the bilge to narrow on the turn of the bilge. Now you have the number of planks. Now lay a baton from waterline in bow to the tuck in the stern, that is up the horn timber to the transom. This way no planks run out to a point on the horn timber. Now you can divide the bow and stern into the number you need. Those above the waterline need to be all the same width for looks. On the stern the garboard is at its widest so is limited by reason because it twists almost 90 deg by the time it reaches midship. Your boat should be about level with the waterline and the garboard will run out on the keel about 90% to the bow. The point of the plank is cut off in what is called a nib. The next plank then comes about to the forefoot, same nib. The distance up the deadwood is greater than that of the bow and a stealer is used there to add width. Never at the bow. The planks will always be narrower at the turn of the bilge and a pattern is taken for each plank that varies in width and has a bend cut into it to fit the shape of the boat. You put the sheer plank on and work down and the garboard and work up, alternating sides so as not to misshape the boat. The last plank is usually somewhere below the turn of the bilge so braces can be used to force it in (whisky plank). The old blunt bow ships either had the bow planks cut to shape from natural grown branches or were double diagonal planked. You are getting messed up with that straight flat board that I think is supposed to be your deck. Decks were not flat and they all had sheer and crown. You might want to check out the Loyd’s of London specks on planking for where the butts are allowed, width and number of fasteners along with whale planks and clamps. Hope this helps a little. And if you are going to plank it like a real boat then the plank is fastened at the bow and bent back to about midship and the stern is bent forward and they are trimmed where they meet. Never have a plank end where there is a tight bend or twist because if you spring a plank it will open right up and sink the boat. To understand the genius of how a carvel planked boat is built you need to consider that the planks are fore and aft, decks are fore and aft held together basically by triangles and designed so the whole thing can twist and work so as to be forgiving and stronger than a rigid hull that can be broken.

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Hi thank you for such a detailed explanation, appreciated, I will try and put this into practice on my next build.

@reginaldgraves1684 4 ай бұрын

There is an excellent book, Plank on Frame Models by Harold Underhill which explains planking fully. You have solid bulkheads instead of frames but the planking would be the same. Proportional Dividers are far quicker for determining the width of planks at each frame or bulkhead.

@dh-jx5yn 2 ай бұрын

@@reginaldgraves1684. Thanks for the recommended title. I just placed a hold on it at the library and am looking forward to reading it.

@TheElitekruemel 3 ай бұрын

Can I use the Plankbender/heater instead of the Iron? Also, what shape does the roundish piece of guidewood need? Is it not to important? Just round in general or do I need to make it for each plank individual?

@g-kip 3 ай бұрын

Hi, the reason I use an iron is it helps to keep the plank flat when bending, there is nothing stopping you using the plank bender, but you may need to take a little more care, with regards the rounded guide so far I haven't needed to use a different shape or size as typically the bend is minimal

@sueduckett4172 4 ай бұрын

I have a hull constructed using the planking method which is approx. 1 meter in length. It literally is just the hull, no decking. I have had it for some 20 years and it came to me in the condition its in today, I have done nothing with it, is there any way of possibly identifying what it is ???

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Hi Sue, do you just have the hull or do you have other parts?, if you would like to email me a picture, it may be possible to narrow it down to the type of ship, I can also put it on a video, maybe one of the viewers could identify it.

@sueduckett4172 4 ай бұрын

@@g-kip Hi I'm sorry for the delay in response, I am trying to get those pictures to you could you tell me the email address I should use ?? is it the @g-kip ?. Also sorry for the confusion but my name is Richard Sue is my wife's name

@g-kip 4 ай бұрын

Hi Richard, sorry I missed your reply, my email should be visable on the channel page (click more)

@sueduckett4172 4 ай бұрын

@@g-kip Thank you I will try and get them on.

@dugan6056 6 күн бұрын

Alternatively. How many 5mm planks will it take at b'heads 6 or 7, the largest measurement. Here it takes 15, forget the decimals, you will never fit the planks so flush that you'll achieve that accuracy, so use your full 5mm width. You will lose 2 to 3mm during the laying of the planks no matter how careful you are. Lay plank 1 along the line of the keel, the garboard. This is not tapered but shaped to meet the cutwater curve of the stem, the upper edge should be almost straight, not curving up the cutwater. Measure length of bulkheads 1, 2, 3 etc and divide by 15 (planks) This will give you the plank width required at these bulkheads. Plot your line along the plank with these widths, join the dots with a shallow curve. Plank from keel up and wale down, alternating as you wish. This is a matter of preference, you may prefer to only plank keel upwards however it makes it easier to measure the gap remaiining to see whether the planks require an adjustment to the taper (you will find a need for adjustment beacuse the shaping and fitting will never be 100% accurate, hence no need to worry about the decimals) Planks above the wale are not tapered. It is useful to alternate starboard and port to ensure the planks are aligned either side (personally I've never had a problem with the skeleton twisting or bending out of shape by completing one side of the hull first!) All of this is hands on woodwork without the need for unnecessary diagrams, I find they are of little practical use due to the slight inaccuracies when laying the planks. First rule of planking-No plank should terminate to a point. Second-no plank should be tapered more than 2/3 of the original width. (kit suppliers often use an incorrect simplified method) For larger hulls additional methods are necessary, drops as you comment and spiling. To avoid having to fit stealers at the stern you will need to buy some wider stock so a plank can be spiled, shaped to fit. As you have found a plank will not lay straight, so it must be edge bent See 'Planking the Winchelsea' by Chuck Passaro on yt. However as well as edge and straight bends it also will twist. Further down the hull the planks will edge bend downwards. Soak the plank and clamp into it's position on the hull, it will set with all necessary bends and twists. This will become particularly evident one third to halfway up the hull, the area with the most complex shapes. You will find this easier still if you replace the 2mm stock basswood with 1.5 (particularly if it's a double planked kit, them you can dispense with the unworkable .6 walnut veneer and replace with 1mm)