Woodturning Abrasive Paste - Make Your Own?

Make your own abrasive paste for woodturning from mineral oil, beeswax and a secret abrasive ingredient I will show you. My DIY blend of sanding paste is like liquid sandpaper, works great, is cheaper than commercial alternatives and allows you to get a smooth scratch free finish with less sanding and less sanding dust!
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Click here to watch Daniel Vilarino’s video that inspired this one • Homemade Abrasive Past...
Here is a video with more information on how to use abrasive paste • Using Abrasive Paste F...
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[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I am posting this email warning I received that I felt was worth sharing. I did check what I am using from Home Depot - it is 100% DE. Thanks so much for your very clear tutorials, and I appreciate the fraternal, non-competitive spirit between you and Mr. Vilarino. It’s a refreshing break from the typical self-promotion seen on KZbin. When talking about your abrasive paste recipe in the future, could you please consider including a one or two-sentence precision regarding the importance of selecting only products clearly labelled as 100% pure diatomaceous earth? As you’ll see below, I think that it is a real risk that eager woodturners walk into potential health hazards, when all they want to do is to have fun turning. Today, I asked around town for diatomaceous earth, and predictably, merchants guided me to the pesticide section, pointing out three products by three different companies. The big HOWEVER is that all the labels on those three available products stated (in small writing that required a great deal of squinting) that they were composed of a certain percentage (80% in one case) of 100% diatomaceous earth, which sounds confusing to start off with. The 100% sounded reassuring, but the 80% less so. I guessed that the 20% remaining was perhaps composed of just benign fillers, but further reading vaguely indicated that the other 20% was composed of “attractant agents,” with no more details than that. Only the manufacturers know what those attractant agents are composed of, and they don't have to tell us, since the product follows pesticide regulations, and not those pertaining to product sold for woodworking. We do not know what that 20% might release under friction into the workshops of eager woodworkers who unknowingly use them beyond their original purpose. Safety aside, that dubious 20% could have an impact on the quality of the finish to be applied afterwards. Even if they were only composed of inoffensive sweeteners and pheromones, I’m not convinced that 20% sugar and pheromones are a stable undercoat for any type of finish. Might I suggest that you mention specifically in the future that various formulae of products exist, several of which are composed only in part of diatomaceous earth? A sure-fire way to avoid problems seems to be to select 100% pure food-grade options, which are safe enough to be ingested by farm animals. Unfortunately, I can only get such food-grade products online, but maybe others will have more luck than me. Though people might pay more for it (28 CAD for 5 lbs in my case), they will be guaranteed safety, and better chances of a consistent finish. Thank you, and all the best, Ron McKay, Shefford, Québec, Canada

[@makenchips]

Excellent review and your honest discussion on this subject. It's interesting that there are no ads sheet on some of these product.

[@DanielVilarino]

Hi Mike, thanks for the shout out and the link to my video! I enjoyed yours a lot! Isn't that paste great? Your paste is a bit looser than my formula (because of the extra ounce of mineral oil) and you are absolutely right about the smell and being it food safe, two important advantages regarding some commercially available pastes. Cheers! Daniel

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Nice for folks who want to make their own. Thanks for developing it and sharing or I would not have thought about making some. Who knew you could use an insecticide from the HD for an abrasive?

[@DanielVilarino]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning Yes, it kills because it is abrasive, but no toxic, that's the beauty of it.

[@billy19461]

Thanks for mentioning Daniel. I learn a lot from you.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

"We stand on the shoulders of giants."

[@vinsavmom]

I made both the sanding butter and abrasive paste. Both work great!! Thanks for the videos and formulas.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Great! Thanks for the feedback.

[@howardmount1928]

Thank you. I always prefer to utilize something I made myself, to me it increases the pride I have in an accomplished project.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I am with you. Turners are Makers.

[@slorts312]

I just made this today and used it on a goblet I turned this week. It worked amazing. I stumbled on your channel not too long ago and became and instant subscriber. I am taking my time and going through them all and learning something from each one of them. You are an amazing woodcrafter and an equally amazing teacher. Thank you. Steve

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks for commenting!

[@Sludgepump]

Thanks Mike! Never heard or thought of using diatomaceous earth before. Good idea! Sounds finer than pumice or rotten stone. Must give that a try. Big thanks for the pointers.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I appreciate your commenting.

[@diydarkmatter]

great stuff mike . plan on making some . looks like fun

[@ronswoodturningshopandstuf5759]

I used Daniels formula with both the diamotaceaus earth and the Rottenstone(one each). I use the Rottenstone darker paste on spalted woods. It highlights the spalt lines nicely.

[@cigarsmoka9741]

Thanks for this information Mike, never would I have thought to use DE.

[@barrywilkinson7259]

Cigar Smoka M.

[@jlk819]

I've made it. Works great. I actually mentioned it at my wood turning club the other night and they asked me to do a demo. So these are timely videos for me and the slow cooker idea is perfect. I think we'll make up some sanding butter and abrasive paste for everyone to take home.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

This is a great club project! Alamart has the cheapest mineral oil. If you can't get beeswax locally, check out the options from my Amazon link in my description.

[@matthewharvey8755]

Hey Mike, just picked up the DE today, getting around to mixing it in with my paste :) Thank you for the tips!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

That sack of DE should last a while. Maybe even kill some insects with it!

[@tangleridgeturnings]

Thanks so much for always putting out such informative videos and sharing. I made abrasive paste today, and instead of standing and stirring for 20 minutes to half an hour, I put my container in an ice bath and stirred and it set up in about 12 minutes.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Sounds great! When I tried that in an ice bath it almost spilled. Glad you had better luck!

[@wb_finewoodworking]

That’s something I need to try. Thanks.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Go for it. I think you will like it. Go in with a woodturning buddy to really make it worth while.

[@so4437]

Thanks, Mike! My father is a beekeeper, so I love to use bee's wax in some of my recipes for finishing.. the sanding paste is a great idea! I'm sitting on a few pounds of wax from this summers honey harvest.. going to try this paste ASAP!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Sweet!

[@PHIL_S]

Mike thank you for this I have been waiting all week for your wisdom and tips/tricks - woot! BTW it was on the table behind you in a past video!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

My tablesaw is the staging area for multiple projects at a time.

[@PHIL_S]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning So cold today in Colorado Springs today - wood shop work (a.k.a. garage) is out of the question -however this gave me some inside work to do today - so all done - thanks again

[@jaredparker6549]

Thank you, Mike. This video came out at the right time for me. Actually, I was on amazon looking at the abrasive pastes you demoed the week prior when you teased this video, I decided to wait to see how you were going to make this. Looked so simple I just had to give it a try. An Amazon order and a black Friday Walmart visit later ($8, 2-quart crock pot..for some reason the boss didn't want me using her good one) I had all that I needed. One variation I made was I got the Diatomaceous earth that is specifically food grade. It was a little more expensive I think, but I thought I'd get fewer strange looks than if I tell people I got it out of the pesticide section :-). I understand it's the same thing... This was a REALLY easy process to follow. One note that I did take from Daniel Valero's video was to use ice to escalate the cooling process. I took the ceramic pot out of the slow cooker after everything was stirred together thoroughly and stirred it for about 15 minutes before putting it in ice so that it wouldn't crack (may not have been necessary, but I don't know much about the thermodynamics of ceramic). Then I put ice in a slightly larger bowl and surrounded the ceramic pot with ice. Steadily stirring, the paste would stick to the walls and bottom as it cooled. Within about 10 minutes, the paste was congealed enough to put in containers. The whole process took about 2 hours. I used some of this on the two bowls I worked on over this past weekend and I was really happy with the results. Thank you for sharing this video. I plan on giving some of what I made away at my woodturning club's Holiday party and pointing them to your video for reference. Merry Christmas!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Sound like it could make a great club raffle item. I guess I need to make another batch.

[@johnwallace4408]

This I am going to have to try! SAFE TURNING, John

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I think you will like it if you like making stuff. Buying is faster and easier.

[@johnwallace4408]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning THANK YOU.

[@StudioJLT]

I appreciate the knowledge download Mike. I’ll need to try this once my tin of YG runs out!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

It will last a long time! Good stuff.

[@genechambers7532]

great info mike

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks, Gene.

[@dozukime]

Thanks for the tip, no more sanding dust, I'm using 50/50 lamp oil & liquid bees wax. But! this system is making me lazy, it's so efficient, after roughing I can start sanding with 180 & work up to 800 to a perfect finish. I first saw this by capt Eddy, he called it "shine juice". Your vid reminded me of it, as I was busy with other projects than lathe work. You got me hooked on "awls", like you said"you will want to make more". Thanks, you got me back on the lathe!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Glad to help. Shine juice is a finish with shellac not an abrasive paste.

[@FlyingMerf]

Thank you for another very useful video! Diatomaceous earth looks like a bland powder, but if you ever get a chance to look at diatomaceous earth through a microscope you will see a multitude of tiny diatome skeletons in a variety of shapes - quite beautiful.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

If my granddaughter gets a microscope I will check it out.

[@richardc8340]

Thank you!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Welcome!

[@anthonyvelotta5507]

Love your videos super helpful. One thing that would be nice though for those of us listening on headphones is there are quite a bit of very loud abrupt sounds (sanding) is there a way to knock those down to save the good old ears. Again thanks for making the vids love em.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@RickTurnsWoodturning]

Good video, Mike!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks, Rick. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

[@suzetteedwards7956]

Hey Mike. I just made my first batch using the double boiler method. I mixed in the double bouler until clear. Next I poured in the DE then moved my (metal) bowl to a bowl filled with ice water. And stirred. I had to remove the bowl from the ice water a couple times to mix in hardened lumps scraped from the sides with the whisk. Within 5 minutes I had cake icing consistency. The big thing was constantly scraping the sides and bottom with the whisk.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Good idea. We did not have ice at the club to do that.

[@charlesbrown9411]

Mike excellent video , and information . I use a bees wax / mineral oil mix on my finished bowls as a basic coating . Then when I am getting ready to sell them , I wipe them down and just coat them with mineral oil . I also use the max mix to work out tearing of end grain , with a coating on the tear out area , wipe down with a tack cloth , and then a gentle pass of a sharpened round nose scraper , Again thank you for the video !!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Good stuff.

[@mikeb4555]

what do you mean by "max mix"?

[@charlesbrown9411]

@@mikeb4555 Mike B , I should have said bees wax mix , sorry for the typo , Charles Brown

[@dondavis769]

Mike good info brother--I made my mix in 4 different abrasive pastes, one with Pumice, one with Diatamaceous Earth, one with Tripoli and one with Rottenstone--I used Walnut oil instead of mineral oil because whatever Walnut oil the wood absorbs, hardens in the wood, whereas mineral oil is just a 'carrier'--at least that's what I've been told! Very important to keep stirring to keep the abrasive in suspension in the mix--great point man! I'll let you know which mix does what as I use them!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I look forward to your results. Inquiring minds want to know. Happy Thanksgiving.

[@ronh9384]

Don Davis Don I made some years ago with super fine crushed up walnut shells and some of the other ingredients discussed here and used walnut oil as well. The crushed walnut shells added some color to lighter colored woods that I liked as well.

[@danhealy7341]

Thanks for the information Mike. I followed your formula and this stuff really works great. I get a very smooth surface with less effort. As a finish I have been using Watco danish oil. It’s works well over the grit polish. I know you prefer Minwax antique oil but I have been pleased with the Watco oil thus far. I’ll give Minwax a try when I run out of Watco.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I think whatever finish you get comfortable is good.

[@danhealy7341]

The small hardware store in my town carries 1 pint cans of Minwax Antique Oil. So many people prefer it that I decided to try it. Thanks again for all your videos. I look forward to them. The information you provide is very helpful and appreciated.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I am still working on a quart can I bought in early 2017 so pint size would be a good size for me. I have not seen it in that size.

[@danhealy7341]

Amazon has the pint size for $11.52.

[@outinthesticks1035]

I saw a vid by Kim tipping for making this last year and on a cold winter night , decided to make some . But I did not have mineral oil and didn't want to wait till a trip to town to get some , so substituted canola cooking oil . It cooled to a solid bar . It seems to work satisfactory , but can be applied by holding the bar on spinning work piece

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Yep, mineral oil does not dry so it is soft and has I guess an unlimited shelf life compare to Tung oil, walnut oil, BLO or any other drying oil that will cure and make the paste a solid lump.

[@BryanSpringborn]

Holiday inn. I used that saying last night myself.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Great minds think a like, LOL. 👍😉

[@makenchips]

Got a stainless steel mini wisk in forage sale .25 cents wotkd great, put in hand drill to mix. We should find out at what temperature the was is solidifies and will hold the particles in suspension but is still soft.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks for sharing.. Some things just require individual experience, I believe.

[@jarmstrong2843]

I made my own batch of abrasive paste using: 4 oz by weight mineral oil 1 oz beeswax by weight 1 oz ditamacous earth by weight A few drops of essential oils to provide a different aroma. I used eucalyptus oil. It seems to work ok. But when I apply to wood like walnut, the wood is darkened by the mineral oil. I guess putting on a sanding sealer first would tend to lessen the darkening properties of the mineral oil. One thing that is not mentioned is that one may want to wear latex or nitrile gloves to avoid the oily feel on the hands. The good part is that everything is natural. No harmful chemicals are used and it is safe.

[@timothympturney2246]

FYI, Yorkshire Grit recommends a sealer before the abrasive paste.

[@jarmstrong2843]

@@timothympturney2246 A sanding sealer like Zinsser would work or a Shellac denatured alcohol mixture would seal wood.

[@davidtrudell6157]

Mike, you said mix: 1 part beeswax, to 4 parts mineral oil (by weight), but not how much DE (by weight), unless I missed it.

[@tomreynolds7837]

good stuff there Mike,i been making my own for a few years now but i did not know about the white stuff (cant spell) so a old dog can learn hahahalol

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I think you will like it.

[@stevea6187]

As always a very useful video thank you. Is pool grade DE ok to use for this as I have a large bucket of pool grade DE? BTW , did you check this video ending as it seems to just cut off?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I have not looked at pool grade but wood think it would be virtually identicall as long as it is very fine, almost like talcum powder without any lumps. Let me know how it works out. The abrupt cuttoff is a video technique I am trying. I finish the video without any tell tail words that signal the end is near which causes some viewers to stop watching. This way they go all the way to the end.

[@bobmoffett2278]

Hi Mike, can your friction polish be used over your sanding abrasive? Love your videos! Very informative!!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Yes, absolutely

[@harrykeel8557]

All I have is a small warmer type crock pot, will that work or would a crock pot where the temperature can be controlled be better. Also Diatomaceous earth is used in the Haggerty buffing cloth to polish metals.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I guess mine is a warmer type also. There is no temperature control. I guess if DE is in a buffing wheel, you better wear breathing protection.

[@harrykeel8557]

Thanks. I guess I can make mine work, just takes awhile for it to heat up

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Should work fine.

[@harrykeel8557]

Thank you very much. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

[@mikeb4555]

made your sanding paste and use it on everything! My chisel skills are a work in progress, which means I get some (too much) tear-out, which means a lot of sanding for me. When I first saw/used your paste I didn't apply until after I'd sanded up to P220 grit. This worked ok, but seemed like a lot of sanding to get rid of the tear-out. Then I got the idea to try the paste at lower grits (P80+) and introduce it again at different intervals upward on the grit scale. Sometimes I use sand-sealer if I need to fill some voids with CA glue (I do this to minimize CA-glue bleeding into adjacent grain). This has worked well, and I have sanded all the way up to 4000 grit before applying a finish. But I have a couple questions: - have you had good experience using the abrasive paste to remove tear-out? - what is the grit of your sanding paste formula? - I know sanding up to 4000 grit is overkill and have been told the final finish (walnut oil, or OJ Shine Juice) may not penetrate well as I have sealed the grain, and sanding by going up to 4000 grit, but it looks so dang nice. Do I need an "intervention"? :) Thanks, MikeB

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Yes, you might need an intervention. Sanding past 400 is overkill for most projects. I hope you have some good lung protection besides sanding lubricant. The abrasive paste will only remove scratches left by your last sandpaper grit. Tear out may go 1/16" deep. When you get tearout, sharpen your tool and try again to slice thru the tearout before resorting to sanding. Your skill will improve.

[@jaysimmons2319]

They make liners for crock pot. Can then squeeze out every last drop. Suggest you try. And then no clean up.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

That is a thought. Thanks for sharing.

[@rickstewart2247]

Mike, could you use the abrasive paste while sanding through the grits instead of the butter and then one final application of the abrasive paste without any sandpaper ? Just a thought.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Seems like it would work.

[@rickhugill8060]

You are going to have a turned object with an oil/wax coat. Can you then cover that with a hard finish such as varnish or lacquer?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

You may want to watch last weeks video on how to use abrasive paste. Read the comments.

[@makenchips]

Only question, after using this stuff how do you get it off or dou you try to seal it out with shellac or other finishes? Reason now you have diatomaceous particles embedded in to the wood surface, pours and cracks, doesn't seem a good idea to me!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Answered in the video on using and read the comments.

[@anthonygreen9609]

Hi Mike. Great video. I ws going to buy some but I have bees wax and mineral oil in my shop. Just wondering if I could put talcum powder in the mix instead.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Talcum is too soft to be an abrasive.

[@anthonygreen9609]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning Oops. I just made it and it’s tacky and in the freezer chilling down. I will try it on my bowl in about an hour and confirm that it is too soft.

[@anthonygreen9609]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning You are quite correct Mike. It is too soft.

[@billsutherland2128]

Mike, I can’t tell when it’s appropriate to use sanding paste and a towel over sanding butter with sand paper. Can you please add another video explaining the pros and cons of each method, and when best to use each method? Is there a reason based on the type of wood being used, the temperature, humidity, ect.? Thank you for your tutelage.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Did you click on the link above in the show notes to How to Use It? Let me know if watching that video did not answer your questions.

[@billsutherland2128]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning Mike, I watched the videos related to wet sanding, sanding butter, and sanding abrasives. All were very helpful, thank you. It would be a cool study to determine which methods and types of sanding and finishing are best based on numerous data points such as grain orientation, moisture content, species of wood, wood density, types of metal or stone, hybrid using multiple materials, micro climate conditions, expected use and longevity of the finished project, ect.

[@oldguywoodworks7374]

Could I use boiled linseed oil instead of mineral oil? I have some boiled linseed oil and don’t want to go buy mineral oil since of the quarantine.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

You can try it. Never of heard of anyone using BLO with this recipe. More flammable and will dry out.

[@carolriley569]

Thanks, this should save me some money...Yorkshire Grit is $25.00 a tub.

[@bbelen61]

$25 plus shipping 41 bucks

[@jman414999]

Mike can Boiled Linseed oil be used instead of Mineral? I think it can but figured I would ask. Great video thanks for the recipe I was waiting for it..

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Probably. Expect a shorter shelf live and darker wood. Not as green with the hardners in it. Happy Thanksgiving.

[@genebrown4034]

have you read the warning label on the package you might should use food grade product

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks for your concern. No one is going to be eating it. You may want to watch the video on how to use. You are going to remove all of it from the surface. I doubt that Yorkshire Grit uses a food safe pumice and Rottenstone. 😂😂😂

[@genebrown4034]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning I was not implying any one would eat it, but my little bit of research claims the garden or pool grade likely contains insecticides

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I can't speak for pool grade as I have never used it or read the conatainer. The package of DE I show in the video I bought from HD does not DE contain added insecticides. It is a mechanical insecticide as I explained in the video. That is what it is sold for. The microscopic sharp edges of the fine DE slice up the insects body and they dehydrate and die.

[@jeffoldham3466]

mike did I understand you to say after the beeswax melts you take it off the heat and pour in your diatomaceous and begin your stiring process with it

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

I believe the liquid will be hot enough when completely melted to accept the stirred in DE without clumping. Let me know if your experience varies. If it starts clumping you can always turn it back on heat.

[@jaredparker6549]

I added the DE while it was still on heat, but once it had mixed in, turned the heat off and kept stirring. In the ceramic container, I would think you could turn the heat off, then put the DE in because it will mix well before it cools to the point where it congeals. Either way should work.

[@jaysimmons2319]

Great video. Some suggestions to speed the process. You can pre-slurry the DE in a bit of the mineral oil that you have weighed out. Eliminates lumps and mixes into the melted beeswax mineral oil mixture much faster. Then when well mixed move the hot mixture into some containers. I use the polypropylene containers that you get take out foods in. Usually half fill about two of these. Then set them into a cold water bath while still stirring. Really accelerates the cooling and thickening. This is the way we would do this in a lab or production setting. I transfer the cooled mix into 100 gram aluminum containers to share with other wood turners.

[@mikeb4555]

Does this replace EEE?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Exactly. This was covered in this earlier video on using abrasive paste. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3qZm2yNrqx-gLc

[@bobedwards62]

Remember, bees wax is flammable. Take care with your method of melting. No open flame or exposed heating eliment. Thanks for information.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Yes at between 300 -350 F. Beeswax is flammable, not combustible nor explosive.

[@davesanders7893]

Why don't you use the food grade DE?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Do not see a reason for it as the other is available at the big box store at a lower cost. There is not going to be any left on the surface..

[@hlloyd-fs4uf]

This should also work with walnut oil instead of mineral oil, correct? Better, worse, have you tried it?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Probably would work but would have very limited shelf life as it will dry out quickly. Mineral oil is cheaper also.

[@charleskallay5484]

Does this paste darken the wood

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Probably a bit since it contains beeswax that has some color. Is it significant? Not to me but your mileage may vary.

[@charleskallay5484]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning thank you for your fast reply.

[@unclepewter4161]

Can you use paraffin wax instead of beeswax

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

You can try it. Parafin wax drys harder so may not mix well with the the MO. I believe it has a lower melting and flash point so would be more dangerous to melt I think.

[@vesli222]

Can i use boiled linseed oil instead of mineral oil?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

BLO is a drying oil so it would have a very limited shelf life. Try it and letus know how it works out for you after a few weeks.

[@vesli222]

@@MikePeaceWoodturning I ask you because,i cant find mireal oil in my country,and i have no idea where should I buy it and what else might it be called :/

[@vesli222]

i can order on amazon but i think they block ,because of airplane safety

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

@@vesli222 Try this en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

[@pjenslin1]

When I google DE to buy I get these kinds in my country, Diatomaceous Earth Silica Fertilizer and Diatomaceous Earth Livestock Feed and Diatomaceous Earth, Food Grade, 100% Organic. Which one should I use?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Sorry, I can't say for sure. I would say the latter one. They may all be the same. It should look and feel almost like talcom powder. They may be similar except in granularity.

[@hlloyd-fs4uf]

It shouldn't matter which one, they are all food grade as long as no other nasty ingredients are listed. It is all going to be wiped off, and then coated with something else anyway. DE is safe for people and animals in any clean and natural state. I've used it in certified organic farming for decades.

[@lesgallivan4159]

Food grade is possessed in a sterile environment , livestock grade is not , also might be a off color

[@hlloyd-fs4uf]

Food grade is processed, not possessed, that possessed stuff might get you into trouble from the spirit world. For this purpose, . animal grade will work just fine.

[@lesgallivan4159]

@@hlloyd-fs4uf darn autocorrect , yes animal grade is fine 🙂 but I did get a bag once that was black

[@gcase08]

The DE pool grade and food grade are not the same. Do not mess with the pool grade. The food grade is safe but don't breathe it in or get in your eyes as you mentioned.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Thanks for sharing. I had to look it up to see the differences and you are correct. Pool grade, which is heat treated to change its filtration properties, is not the same as the insecticide grade and probably should not be used in your abrasive paste.

[@davidshaper5146]

Might be easier to pour butter into containers, then add DE, stirring in containers like you were doing at the end of the video. Mix doesn't have to be perfect.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Whatever works for you. Stirring 8 containers at the same time is more trouble to me than spooning out. I would rather have a sure thing then a maybe if there is little difference in effort.

[@KarylWatz-qw7di]

When you say 1 part beeswax 1 part diatomaceous earth and 5 parts mineral oil-is everything by weight which would mean you put in a lot of diatomaceous earth. …correct?

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

1/6 by weight. Do you consider that a lot?

[@eddieagha5851]

Special note to other dummies like myself! Mineral OIL is not the same as Mineral SPIRITS! Duh! I made it up and it was real "liquid-y". That's when I realized I'd used the wrong thing! Bought the correct oil, everything is now fine! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Yes, mineral spirits will cause it to dry out as well as smell bad.

[@eddieagha5851]

Feel like a total dummy! 🤣

[@susanp.collins7834]

It's not Tripoli. Its triple E. That is, EEE

[@erouse666]

rotten stone. Why are you pronouncing it the way you do? Good video of course, but just weird.

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Ignorance I guess. Thanks for commenting.