Workbee CNC Bulkman3d Kit - Build Part 6

Wiring up the Huanyang VFD and the Huanyang 2.2kw Spindle. As well as wiring to the Novosun NVUM CNC controller.
Link to the New UltimateBee by Bulkman3d: s.click.aliexp...
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Thanks to Ooznest and the Openbuilds for their design.
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[@atech9020]

I picked up a 1M X 1M version with the 2.2kw spindle and the larger 2.45nm motors. I got the full kit with the NVUM USB and TB6600 drivers. I will tell you that you are better off getting ANY other motion controller and stepper drivers than what is offered in this kit. I could not get the NVUM USB to connect, talk, communicate, or otherwise in any way with three different computers... I gave up after a week with NO SUPPORT ( as is readily mentioned on forums et all ) and purchased an ESS Smoothstepper from Warp 9. I was up and running in 5 minutes with that motion system!!! The TB6600 stepper drivers supplied are the real deal, but they are NOISY and one of mine literally caught fire and let out the magic smoke within about 3 hours of use. So I picked up a quad of Stepperonline DM542T stepper drivers and they are not only quiet, but very smooth and so far light years better than the TB6600's! I use Mach 4 for machine control and while I don't have much experience otherwise, it is intuitive enough and I had had very few issues with it. Here is what I would call my compliment sandwich for the Bulkman 3d Workbee and similar designed machines. It is as well designed machine with only a few design setbacks. The gantry is the main one with what I consider to be bad Y-axis deflection. The second issue is the V groove system is finicky to set for good, smooth action, and firm deflection free operation. The V-groove wheels will eventually break in enough to need adjustment, and I have already had to adjust some, so be prepared for a break-in period. The frame and the motors are great and will be of little issue for you. The cable management is also a very nice thing to have. The spindle and VFD are real HY units and so far have been the most issue-free thing I have dealt with on this build of mine. The Tingle Tension system is a very nice feature, so be sure you get that. I have no whip issues at all and my machine is very smooth. I feel I have great accuracy with my machine being about 100th of an inch out over a 29" axis movement. The most troubling thing to tram out is the spindle... I bought a cheap set of feeler gauges from Harbour Freight and after about 2 hours of fiddling with it, the best I could get was + or - 1.5 thousandths from the spindle with an 11" tram tool. With a 3/4" router bit I have nearly zero shingling! The big thing is how hard it is to get it that close though. Aside from the machine itself it is the tuning and traming out that will be the most difficult. Once the machine was up and running it took about 1 week of tuning and testing before I felt confident enough to cut material with it. I have my machine set for 150ipm and can go faster if desired. Being accurate to within 100th of an inch over 29" of travel in the X or Y axis is pretty good if you ask me. A 1" movement is out by less than 1-thousandth of an inch and the Z-axis is the most susceptible to that. That being said I am finding I have an issue with the machine maintaining the Z-axis height. If I change the feed's & Speed's during a run it will affect the Z-axis height by a small, but measurable amount. If I don't mess with anything, it is fine. Turning the dust collector on or off will cause enough disturbance to the Z-axis ( probably due to Y-axis deflection from the suction ) to cause it to shift the Z-axis! I am finding that it is the Y-axis deflection that is the largest problem for me. I don't see any way to easily fix that, so keep that in mind.

[@PaganWizard]

So far, I have to say that you are really doing a great job on selling this CNC to me. Of course, I am stuck in park here building up my collection of dead President's pictures before I can buy it. I noticed you using the red water line that was provided with your kit. I have seen other people who are using water cooled spindles change that to clear tubing, which is normally used for water cooled computers. This allows you to constantly monitor water levels, flow rate, and even the condition of the water. Sometimes a form of algae will start to grow in your water system, and it needs to be flushed and cleaned.

[@IllDoItMyself]

Yeah I'm planning on a solution for monitoring. But as for algae is mostly taken care of with some antifreeze and the occasional flush.

[@petrowi]

Great job on the videos, thank you for making them! It would be very nice to have the videos renamed with the actual components being installed. I'm watching these randomly just to find the one I need.

[@IllDoItMyself]

Thanks for the feedback I will do that!

[@yasinmogradia7297]

I love how well documented your videos are, I've subscribed to see how you program a design etc. Keep it up 👍

[@IllDoItMyself]

Thankyou!

[@MarkoKazimirovic]

Enjoy watching this, great job!

[@IllDoItMyself]

Thanks Marko!

[@foekie]

Thanks for the videos! Really interesting to see you build this machine. Looking forward to the software part - and of course the cutting ;)

[@IllDoItMyself]

Thanks Robert!

[@ccchicken8889]

Maybe I missed it, but how does the water cooling system work? I didn't see where the two water lines hooked up, but I'm guessing the kit comes with a water pump? Also do you have any fears with failure in the water system? I know water cooled PC rigs can go through complete catastrophe with a failure, that makes me a bit nervous when considering water cooled here. But I'm just beginning to learn more about CNC, haven't really seen anything yet on the subject of water vs air cooled. Thanks for this series! Looking forward to your future vids!

[@IllDoItMyself]

Yeah there is a supplied aquarium pump that just plugs into the mains. I'm converting mine so that it's controlled by the vfd for auto on purposes. I will have this in a future video.

[@IllDoItMyself]

Also regarding failure. I'm toying with the idea of an Arduino monitoring water temperature as well as flow. Usually I'm at the machine while running but a visual indication would be very useful.

[@joaoricardobeck4633]

Awesome videos. Very informative and well done. I was wondering how you fixed the spoil board over the spoil board assembly. Did you use the L brackets?

[@allistarcenter3]

I'm wondering why you didn't place the Spindle wire in the drag chain first, will be much more uniform. Nevertheless I love your videos, they are very useful.

[@IllDoItMyself]

Hey, I was concerned about emi at the time but I did end up changing this and it's all run through the drag chain now.

[@djchucknorris]

Hey, so what color is 1,2,3,4? does no look clear?

[@sylvainbdluthier]

Hello did you find the solution ? Thanks

[@gramozsylejmani9278]

HELLO ! is there a video similar to this but that is linking it to GRBL not Mach3 ?! I bought it with GRBL and I can not complete it! please help me!

[@gzcwnk]

I am going to be really interested on how the workbee copes with this 2.2kw 5kg spindle weight. I would like to re-use my existing 6040Z's spindle initially to save $s....

[@IllDoItMyself]

Yeah me to. So far it actually seems to be fine but when I start cutting some aluminum I think that will be the telling point.

[@atech9020]

If you get the larger 2.45nm motors, it has no issues at all moving the spindle around. The only real weak link I can tell with this frame/gantry is that it has bad deflection in the Y axis.

[@RaulLopez-gm9bq]

I am a little confused, you said to wire the hot to T and neutral to to R but in the video it’s wired backwards...does it really matter then?

[@perro0076]

Thanks for the tip to deal with tramming !!! :-)

[@Actio83]

How did you check the ground on the spindel? You cant just glass over electrocution :)

[@MrNutmegdesigns]

I purchased the UltimateBee this spring 1500x1500 2.2K 220v air spindle xPRO controller. I had so many issues with the controller and getting the motors to move right I scrapped it and got a NightHawk controller. All the motors are working perfectly now, but I can not control the VFD. I have gone over all the settings and matched them up to what seemed to be the best choice and moved the jumper. Still, the spindle will not turn. I am hoping someone out there will be able to help me.

[@curtgrams4863]

Can you add the link to the stl file for the upper spindle bracket that you mentioned in the video? Thanks!

[@Levisgil47]

A quick question. What table height do you recommend for ease of access or does it really matter? I've got also to build one. Any idea? Thanks a lot.

[@IllDoItMyself]

I think mine is around 43" off the ground that's around the height of a standing desk. I highly recommend it to save you from bending over to work on the machine!

[@Levisgil47]

@@IllDoItMyself ok Thanks

[@samkaminski1520]

I ordered the 220v 2.2kw motor with mine. Do you happen to know if they are wired the same? this might be a silly question but I'm new to this. I know I will need to run a separate 30amp breaker with 10/3 wire, just didn't see much out there for the 220volt spindle. thanks in advance!

[@君是我的泪]

Can you share with the cnc mount 3d printer stl parts, and the document of test with multimeter. The pump connection need to be stated clearly.

[@君是我的泪]

VFD Mains connection: R = Active S = Nothing T= Neutral Earth = Earth VFD Spindle Connection V = 1 U = 2 W = 3 Earth = 4 Please note, if your spindle spins anti-clockwise then simply swap U and V connections on the VFD to make it spin clockwise. The sales-man in bulkman3D is very bad telling,which i can not understand. Can you just pack your document which can be inspired more directly.

[@君是我的泪]

Do you have a full described Circuit schematic after you finish your work which to be published more easily to be understood.

[@tormodOlsenBerg]

Hi, can you share the spindel bracket?also :-)

[@martindekker8203]

my vfd is a 220vac single phase. Which terminals do I need to use? Cheers

[@grahamshere]

How are you liking the Novosun breakout board? I have the workbee 1500x1500 in its box getting read for when I finish my work shop, I ordered some 425 oz steppers and DM542A drivers, Plus I have different acme screws, Multi start 1/2" hoping that will end any whipping it may have.

[@IllDoItMyself]

Hey Graham, I'm pretty happy I have run into no real problems.

[@genemohr8954]

I have the same CNC router and spindle. Where did you find the 3D printed mount file? I also need one until my 2nd comes from Bulman3D. Thanks for the great video.

[@IllDoItMyself]

The mount for the spindle? I just knocked it up myself. I can upload the STL if you would like.

[@genemohr8954]

@@IllDoItMyself That would be great. I am still learning the CAD/CAM software. This would really help me out.

[@IllDoItMyself]

I have put it up on here. www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-112790

[@davidknight8216]

@@IllDoItMyself Do you know what bolts you used to attach?

[@jungle3111]

@@davidknight8216 M5 mouting hardware and slide Tnuts into the holes for threads.

[@GrumpyHeadDesigns]

@I'll Do It Myself, do you happen to have the file for the 80mm spindle mount that you used? -TIA

[@kylehaffenden7257]

Thanks again for all your videos, has been a great help! I received 3 limit switches with my set, is that correct? Where did you connect yours? Thanks

[@IllDoItMyself]

3 Micro switches is correct, Your going to use them as homing switches rather than limit switches. Connected to the input pins on the NVUM controller. You can actually install these at any of the ends of each of the axis and then configure them via Mach3.

[@kylehaffenden7257]

Thanks bud, Makes sense. Would it be safer to run 6 limit switches? 2 on each Axis? The Diagrams for the workbee show an option with 3 limit switches and another with 6. If i were to wire the three switches would it be best to place them all bottom left (Zero) or on the opposites of the home being zero bottom left? I am also guessing that it would be best to place the Z-Axis limit switch under rather than on top? Thanks Love you videos man