Push vs. Pull! Best way to sharpen??? Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener

A small debate seems to have sparked up since we released the Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener. Is it better to push the abrasive into the knife as you sharpen or pull it away? Should you "saw" back and forth or is a sweeping motion more beneficial?
We decided to take the feedback we were seeing and put it to the test. With the help of our Dino Lite to magnify the results we take a closer look to see which technique provides the best sharpening finish.
Follow up video, see what happens when we stropped these knives! • Push VS Pull results a...
Learn more about sharpening at www.worksharptools.com/education
Precision Adjust - www.worksharptools.com/shop/s...
0:00 Intro
0:45 Push vs Pull Overview and Hypothesis
2:08 Knife 1 Push 320 Grit
3:30 Knife 2 Pull 320 Grit
5:13 Knife 3 Saw 320 Grit
7:38 Knife 4 Sweep 320 Grit
9:24 Round 2 Overview
9:50 Knife 1 Push 600 Grit
10:37 Knife 2 Pull 600 Grit
11:27 Knife 3 Saw 600 Grit
12:33 Knife 4 Sweep 600 Grit
13:43 Round 3 Overview
14:06 Knife 1 Push Ceramic
14:41 Knife 2 Pull Ceramic
16:05 Knife 3 Saw Ceramic
17:38 Knife 4 Sweep Ceramic
18:11 Testing Sharp and Final Thoughts
22:36 Conclusion

[@craigyounkins7013]

Here are the sharpness numbers from the end of this video as well as the follow-up where they used a strop. Lower is better. #1 (Push): 176 after stones, 104 after strop #2 (Pull): 374 after stones, 181 after strop #3 (Sawing): 242 after stones, 191 after strop #4 (Sweep): 298 after stones, 159 after strop

[@klroth025]

All under 200, but that #1 knife pushed/stropped at 104 is beyond sharp! wow!

[@shadowulf]

I've used a sweep technique for may years, so those results didn't surprise me. All 4 in the "scary sharp" catagory after stropping, just shows one has to go through all the steps to get a knife truly sharp.

[@Adam.Rushing]

Not all heroes wear capes! You are awesome Mr. Younkins, thank you - couldn't find the short lol.

[@EdwardKilner]

Very helpful. Thanks for the effort. Left a message saying they should have done this. New to the system, this was well done.

[@TomorrowCall]

Would you say use #1 for general maintenance and #3 for reprofiling and go back to #1 after reprofiling and just never use #2

[@Adam.Rushing]

Old School Wisdom Strikes Again! My grandpa taught me to sharpen a knife when I was very young. He said, you always sharpen like the knife cuts. He showed me the technique yall are calling a Push when I was a kid. For the last 40 years, I've sharpened my knives that way and have always been happy with the edge I got. Thank you young men. It was fun to watch modern science prove him right, some 100+ years after he sharpened his first knife. He was a WWII vet, and the most intelligent man I've ever known.

[@johannestreitner9460]

Bleib bei Grossvaters Rat. Was da gezeigt wird ist super ungenau.😊

[@c62west]

YES! Looking at edges under a MICROSCOPE and using the sharpness tester is the way to demonstrate differences in sharpening technique. Thank you.

[@yappledapple3469]

My grandfather taught me to sharpen the ax, hand saws, knives and chisels with a push strokes into the blades. I’ve always wondered about other motions and if one was better or worse. Thank you for the video and the up-close looks at these.

[@Fadilanse]

as a guy who loved to watch my grandpa sharpening knives to nowadays sharpening my own knives, I've been dying to know these answers, I love you guys

[@awgolasplowing]

23 mins of knife sharpening with equipment I already own...how lucky did I get in the you tube algorithm lottery lol. Great vids guys you taught me a lot. Ps I have always been the saw or sweep guy. Saw to take off metal quick and sweep to finish it😎

[@magnanova]

For the final cutting test, I'd do it 5 times on each knife at different points on the blades then average the results.

[@bwheels02]

Seriously. You never take a single measurement when doing any comparison test. There are averages for a reason.

[@TheDrownjrDrown]

this is the most logical comment on here and seriously would've made comparisons better.

[@DreadX10]

Yes, doing only one leads to the end result (conclusion): "No test!" You will have to do enough tests per blade so you will be able to determine what the gross average is and what the out-lier-values are.

[@AboBrett-dw8xn]

I also think that they cut the wire too fast

[@hityoutwo]

Love this deeper dive into the topic. Never heard anyone cover this, great video!

[@Samuraiguy88]

I’m a sawing guy and I am absolutely more than happy with the results I get in such a short amount of time. I will be a die hard worksharp fan for life. The highest quality and most available to anyone products on the market. Keep up the amazing work worksharp.

[@WorkSharpOutdoor]

Thank you for the support!

[@NeighborhoodDada]

I think the instructions say to do the sawing method. Good to know other methods work well too

[@EdwardKilner]

Got this kit a month ago. Did kitchen knives including paring knives. Love it. Wife happy. Thanks to the person who provided the summary of sharpness results. You need to to learn from him. Really pay attention. I’ll try push next time.

[@zachstuff]

Enjoy these videos and being able to learn/geek out on sharpening! Thanks!

[@MS-qo3sy]

My takeaway is that you should finish every grit each side without unclamping. You need to redo this with 4 sharpeners so you don't have to ever unclamp a knife before finishing the side. The course grit will remove enough material to have full contact with the sharpened surface then finer grits will clean up the edge but for best results you need to maintain very exact contact through every grit.

[@WorkSharpOutdoor]

Definitely, we underestimated the impact that re-clamping would have. We ended up with sharp knives, but maintaining angle and clamp position is key to consistency.

[@shadowdragonx07]

well b4 starting 1 should take care and know witch type of bladed metal there useing as diff metals have diff. outputs also it depends on the methed chu use too sharpen a blade for exsample i use a 400 & 600 grit dimond stone + im used ta freehand sharpening soo my blades norm. get done quick and easy but tats mainly becuz i use a dimond stone but for sharpness theres wike a 4 ta 6 step process but the main 3 things too know are 1st the type of metal chur blades made of 2nd the methed 1 uses and 3rd it depends on exsactly HOW sharp chu want a blade to be 😏 my blades are used for hunting soo i keep em sharp enough too just rend and clean slice threw flesh 😄 oh b4 i forget make sure to sharpen a blade even after its used even once as even simple paper cut tests can dull a blade vry quickly :/

[@davidkeefe9468]

This video is so flawed. Maybe this way works good but maybe it was the clamp…Take this video down and repost it later when you do it correctly. I love my WorkSharp and really wanted to improve my technique. This video did nothing other than waste my time

[@BigBellyEd]

@@davidkeefe9468 what? Each time the absolute micro bevel was affected and ground. So the reclamping maybe caused a 2nd bevel but the final bevel was sharpens with each method to the ground.

[@BigBellyEd]

@@davidkeefe9468 some comments can cause that these experimental videos will not be posted in the future.

[@rickynolen8882]

You guys just sold me on a Knife sharpener, I was looking at different ones and this video solidly sold me on this product.

[@richardkelly1367]

Excellent! Thank you. Love that you added the strop measurements, too.

[@Kamikaziidare]

WOW guys!!! Amazing, well done, this is easily one of the most complete and objective, no BS, and scientific knife sharpening videos I’ve seen. Even though I no longer use sharpening systems but prefer free hand whetstones, this has confirmed some things I’ve suspected for some time. In knifemaking, when hand sanding a blade, we always say one must never move to the next highest grit until all the previous grit size scratches have been removed. In the microscope view you can clearly still see some of the previous grits scratches between the higher grit finish on each step and even some scratches 2 step back. This would take longer to achieve “perfection” with no scratches of the previous grit sizes, but virtually impossible without a microscopic camera and constant monitoring, one wouldn’t be able to see it with the naked eye and probably won’t see a massive improvement in performance. Thanks, great video!

[@Rico11b]

OMG, that opening scene had me on the floor rolling.

[@zwigoma2]

C'mon buddy, REALLY ???

[@CALVINLNIKONT]

I bought the first model but became convinced that the newer model was incredible. The Work Sharp guys were using the cheaper machine I bought several years ago and never used until a month ago when I became convinced that the newer machine with the digital gauge, easy change stones and wider stones, and the ability to easily flip the knife 180 degrees. Using lapping paper glued to the ceramic stones was a real bonus. I bought extra ceramic stones so I don't have to take the lapping paper off of the ceramic stones to change the grits of the lapping paper.

[@advskr]

Your videos are very useful, but this series (Push vs Pull) is the has the greatest utility. By altering my approach to using saw method for reprofiling, then switching to push method for sharpening and finally stropping my sharpness increased substantially (hairs pop off my arm). Your approach using the microscope and BESS tester takes the guesswork out of “which is sharpest” and most importantly “Why”. Well done gentlemen!

[@WorkSharpOutdoor]

Glad it was helpful! We loved doing it and we have more ideas cooking. Should be a fun way to look at sharpening under the microscope.

[@republicansthatdidntvotefo1605]

​@@WorkSharpOutdoor👍

[@norcalbowhunter3264]

I was taught decades ago to sharpen a knife with the push method. It always made me wonder how good sawing is since that’s pretty much how every KZbinr I’ve watched does it, but old dog new tricks kept me from learning a whole new method. I guess it’s for the best I didn’t pick up new habits lol.

[@kenskorepa5353]

Thank you for making [IMHO] the definitive sharpening system "Technique" video.

[@marcgassot3698]

Thanks for this video very instructive. This is changing my mind on the way to sharpen with the Precision. Big Up Guys from France !

[@winneves]

I use a combination of techniques here, push and sweep to the tip then pull and sweep away from the tip thru all grits and it really seems to give a nice polished edge even before I strop.

[@gregred78]

I'd like to see what they look like after they have been stroped with the green compound. That would seem to give the edge the best result for removing the burrs.

[@Lg_tuber]

We need more grits. In between 320 and 600 and between 600 and ceramic. Blotchy edges

[@MountainFisher]

Did you know scalpels and butchers only use 600-800 grit stones?

[@Lg_tuber]

@@MountainFisher but I’m sure the don’t want to get mirror finished edges. Functionality or aesthetics. You can have both having more options

[@MountainFisher]

@@Lg_tuber I use mirror edges on my leather cutting blades and nothing else. I have guys who buy my hunting knives they are going to use who would have a fit if I put a buffed edge on it. Most people seldom really need to use their edc knives and probably slicing sheets of paper isn't one of them except to open packages or envelopes I seldom use mine. My kitchen knives on the other hand get used, a nice quick stropped 800 grit edge does any job you need including popping hair off your arm. That's just for show, I can shave arm hair with 600 grit stropped lightly. I used to have a summer job just sharpening knives and scalpels, some by hand in the 70s. Been sharpening ever since.

[@forrestbowman786]

they heard you and came out with the elite kit. go check it out

[@praingmantis1]

I just received my Precision Elite with upgrade kit yesterday. I started with the 220 and went through all the grits up to the strop. I must say I am highly impressed. Firstly this is an awesome device. My first two knives, a CamillusTitanium 440 and a Boker Magnum 420, I can now shave my hair off. I was as giddy as a school boy. I used the sawing method for each knife. I am extremely please with the Precision Elite and the results. I have never been able to get such a sharp edge on any knife I have owned. So the sawing method worked for me in the jig better than the downward stroke with any of the stones I have. Thanks for a great product.

[@brandonjelinek8963]

I just bought that system with the help of watching your videos. I was able to get a knife extremely sharp the first day. I’m a total beginner, and it was super easy to use.

[@johnwood1010]

Thank you so much for all this work ! I think the spoiler in this is the re clamping. So easy to be off 1-2 degrees. Yes clearly ending with stroping will help greatly to insure no wire edge left on the blades.

[@Bear-nu8xm]

On my system, which I progress through at least 6 stones, I use the saw technique for profiling and the next lowest grit. I then use the sweeping technique for the rest all the way up to ceramics. I find you get a mirror edge far faster and nicer, with the sweep on your highest grits.

[@georgequirk8280]

Good comparison, best sharpening video I've seen. Thanks...

[@OffensiveProduction1]

I've found for me, doing the sweep hilt to tip gives me the best results. Nice smooth and polished edge.

[@FlyLan]

The "sweep", when done on a water stone with a western style kitchen knife, is commonly referred to as the "Kramer" method (as in Bob Kramer) or aka the "Crescent" method, and can be highly effective when executed correctly. The "Push" method and the "Saw" method are both (yet neither at the same time) a popular Japanese sharpening method referred to as the "Push/Pull" method. When pushing (edge trailing), pressure is applied a few millimeters above the contacting edge with two fingers from the free hand (whichever hand isn't gripping the knife). On the pull stroke (edge leading), the pressure applied by the fingers is released from the edge while remaining in contact with the blade, and without lifting the edge away from the sharpening surface. Pushing with pressure raises the burr, pulling without pressure helps to roll the burr and sheer it off without forcing abrasive grit into the apex which, as you saw during your experiment, will create jagged serrations or saw toothed edge. On the opposite side of this, if pulling only, eventually a "foil" edge will occur (if stropped in the opposite direction at a sharper angle than the bevel was pulled prior to the foil edge developing, a decently sharp edge can be achieved) requiring the edge to be manually blunted or "bricked" and the sharpening process started from the beginning. KZbinrs, "An Engineer's Perspective" & "Burrfection" both have videos detailing the cause and effect of multiple sharpening methods, issues, and solutions. GL. PS. The "transition from bevel to primary grind" is called the "shoulder". Hopefully that makes your life a little easier! lol

[@joshmajor8662]

Sadly nobody is gonna read this book man haha 😂

[@johnwood1010]

@@joshmajor8662. I did

[@Adam.Rushing]

@@joshmajor8662 As did I. It was very good information. I'm betting you're under 30 years of age.

[@sin3369]

I read this and I'm under 30 lol

[@marsjam4117]

Josh Major doesn't have the attention span to read for 20 seconds.

[@timstewart3728]

I thank you for this test it answered a lot of questions. I honestly believe that tyhe sweep method will deliver the "SHARPEST" edge, which is what we want. Thanks again.

[@JerryLoffelbein]

I really like the sawing motion for reprofiling/establishing an edge since it's a heck of a lot faster. I also use lapping films down to .5 micron though, and give 'em a few on a leather strop. My BESS tests usually come out to 110-150. Good to see that it puts a bit of tooth to the edge. It really helps when going through fibrous stuff like cardboard and rope.

[@michaell397]

Dead on Jerry! Here in Texas, I do a lot of work on the property. No Girley boy twine in the mix. Hell, I don't ever know what twine is unless it's a northern work for string, lol. I have to cut limbs out of fences, dress game, cut rope, leather, cutting pull ties, you name it. A smooth ultra edge with no teeth is useless. It may push cut and show better on this type of tester that shows a push cut only, but such an edge is useless here for anything other than shaving in the morning. That is reserved for straight razors. ;

[@ZenoLycurgus]

Much needed review, thanks.

[@jgilljr]

Thanks for the video, truly helped me to decide to go ahead and purchase the system. Really informative!

[@DevinAkin]

This video is SO helpful!!

[@ranty13]

I found that using my WS PA gives a much more regular edge that lasts longer. Sharpening by hand gave me would give a razor sharp knife, but the bevel would be rounded and go dull quicker. Love the system. Thanks guys for the video. In the end everyone will take what they want, adapt it and use it according to their. needs!

[@yozy4996]

Great and Informative show...Thank you.

[@kimleith1378]

Super concise comparrisons. I'm new to this "skill" and that being said, I was guessing the "sweep" would be the motion I'd prefer. Your pics made that clear.

[@onggia850]

I will now used the sawing technique on the profiling stage, the pulling technique on the sharpening stage, and pushing technique on the final stages. Ty

[@taylorhickman84]

After a burr has developed and you flip the knife, I think it is important to do an initial pull stroke before "sawing". In my experience this prevents the burr from folding over or breaking off prematurely.

[@redstone31]

I've been doing the sweep method. Definitely going to switch to the push! Great video and testing process. This system is great!

[@tommymctomerson7972]

After watching this and the follow up video I decided to give the push method a go. I only used the saw method before. Without a doubt I noticed a massive difference with the push method. It took less time for a good edge and it was razor sharp.

[@aberdeendh]

When you use the push method, how far do you move the stone over after a swipe? For example, after your first push, does your second stroke overlap the first?

[@themegasexybasterd]

a mix. A push pull on the abrasive then on the fine and polish push only ,then strop with compound and leather. I have a ceramic stick and normally only use it for my larger knifes. GREAT vid thanks!

[@greghaddock8316]

Great video! I use saw to profile get rolls and chips. I push is a sweeping motion after the bevel is established. Last two stones are ceramic and I straight push. Then strop on white paste then straight leather. I learned some interesting things watching your video. I use a very similar guided system on my premium steel knives. Free hand my bigger fixed blades. Thanks for the interesting content.

[@oneshotpete6.591]

Although not to keen on the system itself , the test and diligent evaluation was well worth the watch …👍🏻

[@lindboknifeandtool]

Edge leading, spine to edge scratch pattern. Pull strokes can refine maxamet. X strokes regrind and reduce burr. If you’re not contacting the edge, the pattern doesn’t matter. Sweeping strokes maximize draw cutting, but make push cutting a nightmare. This is incredibly nuanced gentlemen. The best overall for me is perpendicular to the edge scratches. 12 degree back bevel, 17-20 degree microbevel.

[@benjamineibisberger7]

Thank you for these insights!

[@chrisdacosta4182]

On my fixed angle I do a push toward blade and sweep from heel to tip. Never tested the sharpness like you guys did, I do not have the equipment to test. My edges are extremely consistent, and because of consistency easy to duplicate results. Process is longer like you mentioned. I go from diamond plates, to natural stone to stropping. But to try I will try the sawing on an inexpensive blade to see how the toothier edge cuts. I mainly sharpen mid to high end pocket knives. Great video guys, thanks!

[@pensnut08]

I think a combo of styles will serve one well. I was sharpening a broadhead while watching this. I had a ceramic hone on and I switched from "sawing" to"pushing" to "pulling with a sweep" and WOW!

[@goldog2816]

Great video, I personally have always used the push method because that's how I learned especially when using a file but never put the different methods to the test,, thanks again ........

[@dr.s.p.]

This has always been the $65,000 question since aided sharpening systems have evolved and I was glued to the video from start to finish. It certainly answered a few of the majors, but it also certainly raised a few more minors, most of which have been addressed in some of the comments here. It would’ve been very interesting to see if stropping would’ve made a big difference right at the end to satisfy most of the those outstanding questions, because even you guys wondered that! The fact that clamping stays firmly clamped from start to finish and on this system only rotates is a wonderful facet of this unique system but somehow don’t feel that carrying on grits without turning would make such a big a difference for me personally to note and I might get lost in the process, plus I like to personally progress both sides to the end. Very, very interesting indeed though and think that most folk gravitating to this particular video have asked the same question for years and will come out of this leaning one way or the other but wondering about a strop finish. However, I personally came out of this once again to my own mind, deciding I will continue the push and always strop at the end. I also now take photographs of the clamped blade so that I can replicate to the best of my ability the same exact clamping as the last time on a particular knife. I have so many knives, plus kitchen knives, that I have to do that because I don’t remember exactly where I clamped the blade on each. Thank you for this and now it’s back to what is the secret to the universe?

[@lexloose2112]

With most my knives I mark with a sharpie marker where I set the blade in the clamp and then with a dremmel tool cut 2 tiny marks on the corner of the blade so next time I have readymade reference points. Obviously if you love the finish of your blade don't do that

[@kentkovack8591]

I take pictures too. I find it very helpful for saving time doing touch-ups. I also am sure to include the sharpening angle it's set to in the picture to get the most exact set-up.

[@pmchamlee]

Excellent! I'm 77 y o and a long time sharpener. I learned several things viewing your approach in this video. Much obliged! I would really like to see some results following stropping when you get to that stage.

[@user-ck5uu9dp9k]

Nice work guys! I tend to buy high end steels and find that dome have larger carbides than others. These carbides can be pulled out in a pull stroke leaving gaps in the edge. So I always push stroke with one exception… when reprofiling a hard blade I will saw stroke to save time when starting out with my coarsest stone. (I use diamond stones in the first three passes, then ceramic then sapphire) Once I’ve laid in the new profile with that coarse stone I push stroke the remainder. Been doing this with my original Lansky clamp for some 25 years. Love the “zip lock” effect a scalpel sharp knife offers!

[@TylrVncnt]

What you mean by “zip lock”? Just curious now haha

[@MountainFisher]

Always finish by stroking into the blade will take most of the burr off, but pulling leaves more burr. Try it on a grinder, away leaves a huge burr, but into it hardly leaves a burr at all. I always finish with longer sweeping strokes into the edge. I've been doing this by hand for 50 years, I've got it perfected pretty well. Because I'm doing it by hand it leaves a slightly convex edge. Edit; btw scalpels are sharpened to 600-800 grit.

[@jaredappleseed7037]

I use the sawing method and I love this sharpener

[@weeral1]

Now THIS is a good vid. Thank you

[@krazmokramer]

Thanks for this video. Interesting info and results. I will use this as I sharpen on my KME.

[@stoneblue1795]

Finally, a KME guy. Agreed. Better stones available, mostly METAL in the construction of the device, a better rig, yeah more money, but buy cheap, you buy TWICE.

[@user-em3bx8lx3t]

Enjoyed this. Very informative. Three generations of pushing, to sharpen. I bought this sharpener 3 weeks ago and like it a lot. Very stable. I use the sweeping method to keep from eating too much material and to keep the edge centered. For me it is a game changer from a stone. I have been told a burr has to be made to sharpen a blade. I am still foggy on what a burr looks like. I have sharpened, from pocket knives to camping knives, all have a great edge. I will use the push method next round of sharpening. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming.

[@WorkSharpOutdoor]

Happy to help! A burr is hard to see with the naked eye which is why we recommend feeling for it. For a great visual representation, check out @outdoors55. His camera setup is next level when it comes to sharpening up close.

[@kentallen7862]

I have been a Lansky user for many years, and I have just switched over to Work Sharp Tools. I was checking out a couple of your videos before I started to use your system. I have always used a push stroke with the Lansky and was glad that the saw method you originally showed was not the only option, and the push stroke seems to be the most effective.

[@utubetjc]

I also was a Lansky user and recently bought the Work Sharp System. I am use to the push technique and before I start, wanted to research user results.

[@krustysurfer]

Great video! Thank you

[@Tool-Meister]

Nicely done guys! I discussed this in my 2-year old, very amateur, KZbin video, using several of my angle-controlled sharpening systems, including my PRECISION ADJUST KNIFE SHARPENER - ELITE™ SUBQUENTLY, life got really busy, and I didn't post my followup. I found was using the "sawing" motion was OK with profiling and repair, followed by using the push method, finishing with "Pull Motion" stropping, consistently produced the sharpest edges with some noticeable decrease in time required. Try it and see if it works for you. Lastly, I've experimented with the "Swirl Pattern" on my larger sharpening system, using 6" stones. Its results seem comparable with the push method be yields a mirror finish without the cutting streaks, pitting, etc. I demo the Swirl Mode on my video. Stay Sharp. BTW, these days I'm a Ken Onion System fan for profiling and repair, followed by the PROFESSIONAL PRECISION ADJUST™KNIFE SHARPENER for the final edge. Your milage is guaranteed to vary.

[@josephjones2995]

I really like the sawing motion for reprofiling/establishing an edge since it's a heck of a lot faster.

[@zsombordonko6459]

I love everything about this

[@kennymanchester]

I believe different steels will respond with very different results in method. Especially true with High V steels such as S110V. I agree about stropping altering the outcome on the BESS Tester. I was just dieing to see you guys strop these knives and restesting. Well done.

[@tillmannc9799]

Jungs, das hat mir so gut gefallen. Das war so schön für mich.

[@christophernelson5779]

I've been using the "saw" method but may start using the first one yall used next time I sharpen my knife

[@HillBilly-1]

Cut into the stone to sharpen pull away to finish/polish. First pass on the second side always pull to realign the burr then cut into the stone until the burr is gone. And pressure is the key to getting a sharp edge. Less pressure is better (for finishing) the weight of the blade is all that's needed.

[@johnamoroso271]

The results and video of the knife motion make me think the push works best with the clamp. The clamp is very stable but the saw action seems to move the blade the most. I will probably push to finish knives now. The saw action could still be used to reprofile before switching to push only. Love this sharpener and haven't had a bad result yet.

[@nerothe]

Might be worth trying saw for profiling, sweep re-establish a super smooth edge, then push to finish.

[@gregred78]

I'm proud to say that I just sharpend my M390 steel blade from lionsteel TRE in the Green G-10 and I just put the best edge I've ever put on a knife I've owned. In my life.

[@donkahl63]

Awesome video!!

[@ronnycalloway6937]

I'm right-handed, and I find I push left and pull right. Every 180° flip is done the same way. Thanks, y'all, for the information on my new toy. The Work Sharp Elite is a sharp product. Bladie Mae is pleased, too.🎶🇨🇱

[@bibleredpill]

The best intro ever.

[@josh33025]

The aftermarket vice support is the best thing for consistency because the vice block moves the harder you push.

[@Gregoryr7]

Just used the Precision elite and it is really extraordinary. I am not a great stone user, or other sharpening methods that are out there. But your system is made for me. Real results right out of the box with some instruction. I found the back/forth method is best for me - it gets the job done fast and with no deficit. Do you make or plan to make parts or another version for larger - especially thicker knifes? Outstanding, really. Gregory

[@markmarangi73]

I use the same sharpener and I use the saw method when using the roughest stone. The finest grit stone that I end up with is done in a push method followed by the strop. Seems to work well.

[@douglaspulliam60]

Angle dad always wants a chisel angle profile,me I like all kinds for different blade types,his chisel edge really seems to work for WORK

[@8thsinner]

Excellent video comparison here, you could measure the push pull + sweep forward and sweep back as thats how a chef would usually sharpen depending on whether they are pushing or pulling through food, But, it's still easy to see a pushing sweep is going to give the cleanest results as long as you have a good sweep angle consistency, elsewise, just push and you're golden mostly.

[@Nordraw]

Push it is than. Thanks for the info, I had been using the saw method

[@ReasonAboveEverything]

@E S no its always push

[@q.p.8327]

PERFECT!!!...PERFECT!!!...PERFECT!!!...Thank you...LIKE...

[@GordonSurratt]

Alright hear me out. The Hybrid: sawing then pulling on 240, pushing on 600, and sweeping on the ceramic. I just did a knife like this after watching this video, and it’s my sharpest edge yet.

[@D00MTR33]

Not sure how easy it is to do on this sharpening system but on mine(Kazak UBR) every time I switch a stone I raise the angle 0.1 degree or so. That guarantees I hit the apex and get rid of the previous scratch pattern. I also use more grits of stones and better and more expensive(considering each stones costs as much if not more than your whole system) stones. Also I think reclamping played a big affect in the results. Next time I think you should just do all the finishes on the knife at the same time or put tape on the blade and draw an outline around the clamp so you know where to reclamp it. Great video, very insightful. Your system is a great value for its price and should help more people get into sharpening who can't afford multi hundred dollar systems.

[@donnyh3497]

Thanks for the hard work in making this video! I wish you would have stropped them and sharp tested again.

[@rickadkins8277]

Great vid. Im learning before I buy that sharpener. Thanks guys.

[@WorkSharpOutdoor]

Glad to help and thanks for watching.

[@l...]

Thank you for chapters

[@fesi1370]

😂👍🏻greeting's from 🇸🇰 Slovakia

[@riffedwood5597]

I have the worksharp field sharpener and I use the pull method because it’s easier to feel the burr and know which areas need attention. Gets me sharp enough to do what I need- I’m not a butcher or a surgeon so I’m good. Might still get the precision adjust to get a little more consistentt

[@CS-vg1dt]

Great Video. Interesting to see blade edges through a microscope. Been sharpening knives for over 65 years and have tried nearly every system out there except the real expensive ones. Lansky is my favorite economic sharpener but I prefer the freehand method. If I can get my knives sharp enough to shave and even sometimes to split a hair; well that’s sharp enough for me. Also sometimes I don’t want a paper thin edge as it dulls too quickly on some materials. Freehand is a skill that takes some practice but once you master it freehand is faster and takes less stones. I switched to diamond and ceramic, and leather strop and never looked back.

[@Vincerama]

I would think that if you need a microscope to tell, then for all intents and purposes, it doesn't matter!

[@gregmccarter2176]

I'm old school and I use my old Norton stones, and diamond s..ceramic finish

[@shermanhofacker4428]

Subscribed just after seeing the intro!

[@cainkopczynskie6296]

I found for me I get a nicer edge ending each grit pushing into the blade. I use a kme but it's the same concept.

[@williambilse]

I have been doing the sawing method to get the profile I want, and finishing each grit with the pushing method.

[@bigbobg8091]

After all of that, the final verdict was “they are all sharp”.

[@shadowdragonx07]

well chyea wat are chu exspecting 😄 its vry rare to have a blade be even duller then wat it started as b4 sharpening but i mean it dose happen tho from time ta time :/ the best method for such a thing would be too regrind the edge useing a belt sander but then again iv noticed tat if chu do it tat way then 1 would norm. never need too use a stone altho a strop and some polish after always dose the trick 😄

[@shadowdragonx07]

oh keep in mind tat there are a lagit shiton of ways too sharpen a blade besides just useing stones or grind wheels hell my step dad belive it or not he teached meh how to sharpen useing nothing but the pantlegs of my jeans 😄

[@xvaldez3284]

Method one is hair popping sharp and everything else is just shaving sharp.

[@TexasNationalist1836]

@@shadowdragonx07 learn English god damn

[@CitizenKate]

This is just my kind of nerdery -- actual testing with measurements and photographic evidence... what a concept! (Opinions are for politicians.) Though I agree with the other comments that suggest keeping each knife in their own clamp for the duration of the testing for better consistency. Thanks for sharing this very enlightening information.

[@jaywalker2012]

Knife 2 got a wire burr from the pull method where the burr just goes back and forth. This happens when sharpening on sandpaper pulling the knife back so you don’t cut the paper. You have to lightly draw the blade across something to knock the burr off a few times then check you edge and go from there. Otherwise you’ll be chasing the burr back and forth.

[@jimmyschock9395]

Try using a little less pressure your flexxing the blade in the clamp n you can see it in the scratch pattern

[@gutpile6151]

This was really good

[@richardunderwood950]

Thanks for making this video guys. I’m interested to see what the results are after stropping each one.

[@DeadRingerMachine]

Such a no-brainer.

[@richardunderwood950]

@@DeadRingerMachine numerically is what i was interested in. Obviously they would become sharper.

[@BrTruthinLove]

Essentially, the sweep method is a version of stropping by hand, reproduced on an aid

[@uswee]

I have changed from push to pull after purchasing and using high end Japanese cutlery. I'm my attempt to keep it sharp I studied their techniques. They are masters of the blade.

[@doogan3244]

I'm thinking that the reason the "push" method results in a sharper edge is likely due to the pressure on the leading edge due to the mechanics of the setup (starting from the edge pushing on an incline). Not bagging on it, as it would cost 5 times more to stiffen the rigidity and would weigh an order of magnitude more. It just means you need to gain a feel for whatever system and make adjustments along the way.

[@cfltitan]

When using mine I use the sawing at lower grits on edges that need work or reprofiling and need to move metal quick. Once I get to my higher grit rod (the one that’s 600, 800 and ceramic) I switch over to the push only. Then I always finish on my strop.

[@GravityRoller]

What make/model USB scope is used here ? In my experience, edge leading (with stones) will provide least amount of bur and best end result. With lower grits, plateau sharpening will reduce edge damage during sharpening.