WPL's Best Model, the C44KM: Cheap But Metal RC Crawler!

[@muskokamike127]

2:04 if you spray the paper gaskets with clear lacquer or similar that would make them water proof. (or if your wife has clear nail polish). You could even do this after it's assembled. The lacquer would seep into the paper and seal the whole thing. If you have spray, you can spray it into a cup and then brush it on.

[@RCTNT]

What a great idea! I also have conformal coating here, that'd work too. Nice thinking!

[@muskokamike127]

@@RCTNT I've used clear nail polish to weather proof connections too. It's strong enough to resist breaking from vibration etc but not so strong you can't pull the connection apart if need be.

[@RCTNT]

@@muskokamike127 another great tip. I'll have to try this! Thanks :)

[@muskokamike127]

@@RCTNT glad to help! I thought that tip might come in handy if you're using your vehicles in wet conditions. I've worked in all sorts of different industries so I have all kinds of tips like that I've picked up over the years.

[@skidog7440]

Don't know what it is about WPL's but I can't resist them. Bought my son the C44KM and we're going to build it together so you're video was perfectly timed! Thanks for sharing yours.

[@RCTNT]

Lol I know, eh? The price is right, that's for sure. When I was 8 or 9 I'd have driven one of these until the wheels fell off. Glad you enjoyed this, I'm looking forward to your build with your boy on your behalf, that's just great :)

[@suvsteve]

The paint come out well 😊

[@RCTNT]

Thanks, yeah it did, eh! I really like this truck. Still using it :)

[@danwoodruff4323]

Nice little truck 🛻

[@3Y3ECE]

You can 'paint' candle wax around the closed diffs and that will soak into the paper as water would and seal them. It's ample for water resistance and you just need a cheap paintbrush and a lit candle. Dip brush in melted wax and apply before it hardens. Once soaked in, use a hair dryer and a rag to wipe away the excess. Done. Lovely video, awesome paint, and I just love WPL!!

[@RCTNT]

Oh what a simple solution. Thanks for explaining it! Great little car isn't it. Cheers

[@3Y3ECE]

@@RCTNT I can't say 'I wouldn't know,' because, I've only just ordered mine it that 'jurassic park' beige color (terrible!! but a good base color for literally anything else bwhahaaha), but I do own 2 non-WPL rigs that I replaced all but the bodies with KM WPL kits, a WPL B16, and the B24. 1/16 is rapidly becoming my favorite scale, and, it's compatible with my tanks, for the most part (Heng Long fan). Now onto trailers... Oy.. Great video, fantastic paint, I cant get over that color, and love your scale details. It's a mind space for me, and I get lost in it very easy!!! Take care from WA state!! (EDIT- I subbed because you replied and I had forgotten the first time. For what it's worth, thanks for the shop talk!)

[@RCTNT]

Oh nice, all good. Yeah I'm happy with the finish on this one. Just a single colour but it came up good. Glad you're enjoying your hobby time too. Relaxing, isn't it.

[@3Y3ECE]

@@RCTNT I didn't need another reason to get outside and enjoy nature, but, I found one!! Carpe diem, friend!

[@jonmandelbaum5395]

These need the optional metal trusses. Some folks put metal MN axles on these with compatible metal trusses. Also apparently there’s a special way to instal the axles and connect the drive shafts so the diff gears align properly. So they don’t chip. Some of the folks I know who swear by these switch to the single speed transmission from the C34KM because of issues with the two speed and opt to relocate the weights to the underside of the cab to take the strain off the drivetrain. That said, I’m told if you build them right they’re very durable. I did see one Malaysian KZbinr put a C34 body on an RTG 136161 which seemed to work great. I’ve heard great things about those chassis. Few breakages reported. But WPL’s all metal stuff is actually worthy of respect. Another mod some are doing is stretching the WB on the C34km to C44 length, with appropriate body cuts, which looks really cool. The only thing making me wait on getting these tho is I want to be absolutely sure I know how to install the diffs properly because I’m a fool. There are steel upgrades available but they’re imperfect.

[@RCTNT]

Thanks for the good info, that's really helpful!

[@nopalsporttv352]

Cool video 👍👍🥰

[@YoShImUrA53]

I love WPL and what they have brought in very little time to the hobby. Hell, maybe if it weren't for them, I wouldn't have started into the hobby since the beginning of this year!! Unfortunately it seems their former lead engineer is now working for another company (check, I think I learned from it at Ampro's recent 1/16 "D12" video for more info). I seem to recall he founded it himself, and will continue to build on the type of models he did when he was at WPL. I actually got back on the hobby, back from a long hiatus since 1999 when I last built a Tamiya semi-rally touring car RC (TA03F), thanks to WPL! I bought a C34KM kit, merely on the fact of how cool it looked and how cheap it was. I just wanted to build it with a proper paint job to make it look like the real FJ40. After finishing it and running it a couple of times in the house (it still hasn't gone out), I enjoyed so much building it, that I bought a C44 kit and built it also focusing on scale details, and painted it in a "ratty", rusty, theme. I then fitted a dirt bike in the bed, and have run it a couple of times in the dirt and water. Tire grip and engine power (especially when using the taller gear) are its biggest limitations, in my opinion. Also, about the axle assemblies. Before WPL added the paper gaskets, I used to cut to measure some of the screw plastic bags from the kit for the same results, yet even after this not always the fit was good. Some recommend grabbing the pinion's end with a Dremel and let it run for a bit so the gears wear down and mesh smoothly. I find this a bit too radical, and not long-term sympathetic to the gears. My experience after building currently over a dozen of these axles (yes, I have a few C14, C24, and C24-1 in the pipeline...), is to build them and disassemble them a couple of times. Testing for tolerances on the gear mesh every time. Works much better than what anyone would expect after just reading this. I usually have near zero friction holding the axle and moving it from the pinion, after repeating this process of several assembly and disassembly a few times. Sorry I can't add much more, other than it's always a treat to have a new video from RC TNT!!😃🤟🏻 Now I want to take my C44 out for a run... I also can't wait for you to jump on the MN86KS and give it also a proper review like this.

[@RCTNT]

Haven't forgotten about the MN86KS, don't worry! Was looking at it this morning! Funnily enough, I disassembled and reassembled my axles here a few times too, though not by choice so much as it was part of the process. Way smoother after running awhile. I'll add that I have tried running a power drill on the shaft input on the B36KM build for one of the axles which was too notchy, but later realised that it was a question of correct clearance rather than the gears being inaccurately moulded. Getting clearances right is key. Maybe compressing the paper gasket a few times works better? Next time I'll press a few in a vice overnight, between a couple of flat boards. Once they're fully compressed, perhaps the mesh will be better on the first build. Will report back.

[@YoShImUrA53]

@@RCTNT Absolutely! With WPL I feel there's definitely an old-school mechanical feel to the build when making these metal axles. It's funny, but I think that rather than the typical feel of building an RC, it reminds me more of shimming and setting the play on a gear differential on a 1:1, which coincidentally is also a PITA, but so rewarding once properly set. And if we ain't here for the fiddly part of building these, where's the fun? 😃✌🏻

[@RCTNT]

Well that's a good point, heh. Nice perspective.

[@martintanjung5540]

I retapped almost all of the m2 machine screw holes to M2.5 sized screw holes, particularly on the diff cover and linkages (except the screw holes for the pumpkin covers)...

[@RCTNT]

Sometimes it's gotta be done. At least you've got good hardware in it now!

[@chriscocking8424]

Nice mate i was looking at one of these just today lol

[@RCTNT]

Heh awesome. They're pretty good value I reckon.

[@jonmandelbaum5395]

Liked and subscribed

[@CactusCrawlersRC]

Awesome build! Looks like a nice truck!

[@shoky11TV]

Something completely different from the same ole mainstream builds - I like it. Shortened AR44’s / SCX10.2 trans / shortened Wildbores with some 540 brushless/3S goodness…what a ‘sleeper’.

[@RCTNT]

Did we watch the same video? Lol I like sleeper builds as much as the next guy, but this stock c44km is more Sleepy than Sleeper!

[@shoky11TV]

Zzzzzzzzzzz yup - you’re probably correct!

[@RCTNT]

I do this all the time! Narcolepsy + ADHD = missed details unless I triple check!

[@PSYCHO13GARAGE]

nice build! great video. lots of great info!

[@RCTNT]

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment :)

[@sqweezzstr]

I believe the c44 is more 1/12 and the c24 is closer to 1/14

[@RCTNT]

While you could be right, the c44 is advertised as 1:16 and the C24 advertised as 1:18. I admit, I haven't done the maths on it to work out what they actually are. Couldn't be too hard, just divide the full size wheel base by the model wheel base and there's your ratio.

[@RCTNT]

Alright, the C44KM looks to me to be based on the J47 from the early 80's (and that's the one I'm very familiar with, having grown up around them). The wheelbase of this ute is 2430mm and the model has a 218mm wheelbase, leaving us with a 1:11 apparent scale. But like I noted in my latest video (the JDM Zetros 6x6 video, released 12 hours ago), scale is a weird one because manufacturers are trying to make a model that fits with the general '1:xx' scale models already out there. So when you hear of a 1:18 model, you know roughly the size of what you'll get without needing measurements. This system works for play but it is imperfect when you're trying to match a trailer of the same scale, or if you care about scale accuracy more than getting a certain size vehicle. Thanks for getting me thinking about this. I'll possibly go into it more in some future video, it's worth exploring. Cheers.