I have to fix the Ninja 1000 / Z1000 clutch... AGAIN!!!! (Plus a little fairing removal)

[@jknotts18]

You are awesome first of all - anyone reading this my 2013 had a strange feeling to the clutch when I bought it at about 2k miles - I took it back to the dealer to see if they could figure it out - pushed them hard on it - and they broke down and told me that this (strange clutch vibrations) was a known issue and there was nothing they could do about it - good news - it seems like the engagement vibrations may have gone away at about 5k miles; this is one of the downfalls with not being able to test drive before buying - other than that the 2013 is a really great bike - I’m completely satisfied

[@Wrenchie]

Glad to hear the issue went away. My dealer/go-to mechanic is very forth-coming with facts and (thankfully) did not try to hide any issues that he has seen or heard reported. It's helpful to get the truth. In 2016 (I think 2016) Kawasaki changed the clutch on the Ninja 1000. There are some minor mods but a really different feel. The 2012 (or any of those bike years prior to the 2016 change I imagine) by comparison has a very stiff feeling clutch requiring a good amount of force (again by comparison) to the 2016+ (post design change) clutch. My 2016 is really smooth, requires very little pull force, and is very forgiving engaging from a full stop where the 2012 requires "some" skill in starting from a stop, nothing tricky, just that the 2016 feels like an improvement. I checked the parts schematic for both years and they look the same so maybe there is no change. I road a 2013 and a 2017 and the 2013 feels mike my 12 and the 17 like my 16. Maybe someone has the inside info.

[@sethousley473]

Did drilling fix your clutch issues? Having similar issues....

[@Uninfluenceable]

I have a 2010 Z1000 (same bike as yours minus the fairings). It's a really early model, serial number 00072. I have had ZERO issue with clutch binding or chatter, my clutch is as perfect as any bike I've owned. BUT because the lever is too hard to pull for my liking I just converted the whole clutch assembly to the "slip and assist function" slipper clutch that comes on the +2017 N1K's. So I now have a spare clutch assembly that I don't need. I'm also in LA, so if you are still having issue with your bike, I can lend you my (known good) clutch assembly, and if it does happen to fix your issue, just give me like $50 bux and you can have it.

[@Wrenchie]

Interesting Mod. I wonder if different (lighter) clutch springs would have helped? Thanks for the offer. The clutch mod is working EXTREMELY well on the 2012 N1K. Almost wish the 2016 N1K's clutch had the same feel and action. Not that its bad, I actually like the stiffer clutch feel. And, for those of you watching... Hey, here's a clutch assembly if ya'll need it. There is a Kawasaki Ninja 1000 group on Facebook. Might want to post it there too.

[@fallenwout]

Had the same with my new 2015. It once dragged me onto an intersection because it didn't disengage, dragged me into a gate and stalled at the light. You cannot outbrake a 1000c engaged bike. After 10 service "repairs", it even went twice to kawasaki HQ, it was not solved. When they told me they were going to replace the clutch cable for the 11th service repair attempt, I snapped. I said to the dealer I was not taking that bike home ever again because the clutch is going to kill me one day. It was already 2.5yrs old by that time. I threatened with a law suit as the complaint was noted after only 400km and got a number of kawasaki HQ. Called kawasaki, threatened them with a lawsuit and told them to get me a deal through the dealer. Dealer called me back with a shitty deal, I asked them to mail me the full service history of the bike (they were not dumb, they know why I was gathering ammunition). Dealer called back the same day with a great deal for a next gen one. Took it, new bike has no issues. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3THf5mFh6uUqKs

[@Wrenchie]

Wow! That’s sucks!!! Never heard of that extreme case before. I would think your dealer would be a better partner than that. My local dealer has been a great partner when I had a most bizarre problem. Intermittently not starting. After two weeks of diagnostics and two factory reps on site, turned out to be a failing, not failed, resistor in the ignition cylinder that is part of the anti theft system. They got it fixed. Maybe time for you to look for a new dealer. My symptom wasn’t nearly as severe as yours. Mine was very annoying - trending towards dangerous. Glad you got it finally resolved

[@keithmartland6463]

Your problems are the same as mine, on my 2006 Z1000, been told its the needle bearing on the main hub, E0 on your drawing, been off the road now for four weeks but due to this virus its taken weeks to get parts i need

[@Wrenchie]

I didn't replace the needle bearing. It looked ok, no visible wear. The holes solved my issue. Not sure about issues others may be experiencing. Someone commented that the newer models have a clutch plate with holes in it. I'm guessing this helps oil flow into the clutch components as does the basket hole drilling... again, guessing. I don't hear of the same clutch issues in newer models as in the older style. I have both a 2011 and 2016, older and newer model. The clutches "feel" totally different. I guess we'll see over time

[@cataldobraccio9791]

Hello wrenchie, I replaced the clutch discs of my z1000 2010, only after I realized that 2 driven discs were thicker, therefore 8 by 2.5 and 2 by 2.9 .... now no so can the sequence help me?

[@Wrenchie]

Yeah. The first and last friction discs are a different part number than the rest. Hence the order is important to maintain as well is the part number identification when purchasing replacement parts. So, those two thicker discs are likely the first and last.

[@adam61484]

Yes you definitely want that clutch basket wrench. The aluminum that the basket is made of is very soft and actually shatters very easily, I know from experience.....sad face. Just make sure to count the number of spaces to make sure you get the right one.

[@Wrenchie]

Agreed!! I bought an EBC CT004 wrench... look like it fits. For drilling, thinking i need to keep the holes evenly spaced around the entire hub to keep it in balance. Yeah?

[@allrounder844]

Sir, I like your video very much and I had a question with you. That this is the Kawasaki z800, what is the work of the two rings which are lying in the last clutch plate in it

[@Wrenchie]

I tried to explain in the video. The first is a spacer. The second ring- the concave ring, is a spring. This spring puts tension on the clutch plates the help prevent them from rattling

[@skelskell]

Great video even though my 2016 Z has a slipper clutch so my installation was a little different from yours, can you make a video changing the slipper clutches on the Ninja/Z1000

[@Wrenchie]

When that clutch wears out, you bet!

[@danielgorlero1651]

Por favor videos traducidos al español. Su calidad y temas tratados muy buenos. Gracias