The Punk Fashion Paradox

Instagram: / jojpant
Music:
• Space Prophet
A big thanks to ‪@MyClothingArchive‬ for the help with the section of Undercover and for letting me use their scans!
/ myclothingarchive
www.myclothing...
Also a big thanks to ‪@casinoriv6308‬ for help with the undercover section too!
/ riv.ig
www.archivepdf...
If you want to watch some more videos on the subject I recommend these:
Karsten Kroening's series "Fashion and Punk"
• Fashion and Punk Part ...
The Casual's break down on how the punk aesethic became popular in Japan
• How British Punk Revol...
This video is about the relationship between high fashion and punk. This video looks into designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Jun Takahashi of Undercover, Junya Watanabe, Takahiro Miyashita, Henry Levi of Enfants Riches Deprimes, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons and Boris Bidjan Saberi
Other subjects include:
Proto-punk, post-punk, goth, grunge, iggy and the stooges, the new york dolls, Malcolm Mclaren, The Sex Pistols, Richard Hell, Patti Smith, Crust-punk

[@lr4109]

Being punk is more than being controversial. It’s more about not giving a damn about conformity and to do what’s right for you and the people you care about

[@bickyboo7789]

I love showing up to punk shows in bright ass clothes jumping in the mosh with a huge smile on my face the whole time. Fucks with the few hardcore gatekeepers that are always around.

[@SoHungry666]

Oooooh... is that what it's "more about"? I would say commenting on a youtube video about what is or is not "punk" is truly what "punk" is about. Guess I'm punk too. Let's all be punks in 2025.

[@kirbysaurus5670]

Yeah not really true. Being punk is not caring about people either. People love to Disney-fy everything to fit their own little cosy aethetic

[@kirbysaurus5670]

@@SoHungry666 So punks can't have a discussion? Get a grip man you're trying too hard to be "different" and making a fool of yourself. Original comment never implied they were punk either

[@WesleyGravolet]

Punk means nothing, in the same way heavy metal means nothing..these were terms used by critics for a way to describe sounds of music used to sell music!

[@morganqorishchi8181]

"You can't be punk, you wear glasses" I love how even very early punk pulled "no, you must conform very hard or else you're not right for us, the self-proclaimed non-conformists". Even back then, the mythology failed to match up to their practices.

[@lizburton3840]

Literally all the bands back then did this nonsense to each other. Bernie Rhodes, who managed The Clash, bullied Mick Jones, the guitarist and primary song writer of the band, CONSTANTLY because he refused to cut his hair short and wear the type of clothes punks 'should' wear. It's kind of infuriating for someone as important to the subculture as Mick to be bullied within his own band for not conforming...

[@jhawk1229]

Always so hypocritical, really. My dad grew up in one of the major punk scenes and when I started getting into music he had a lot of rules about what was and wasn't acceptable to a punk. "No flood jeans, no disco, no metal, no blah blah blah", just replacing one conformity with another

[@Imaan-rh2dz]

​@@jhawk1229 no metal is crazy 😭

[@bloodyidit4506]

A punk is an individual who just is. You can be in any outfit and be a punk just by not caving to peer pressure. Hell, you can even be in a suit. When it became an aesthetic, and people communed around it, it became crap. It became about belonging, when the point is to reject things that control you like a need to belong.

[@musstakrakish]

People are always ghd problem.

[@aR0ttenBANANA]

If Black Flag and Fugazi can play in trousers and polo shirts then everything is punk with the right ethos

[@Semprini537]

I prefered american HC FASHION, lumberjack shirt/boots, jeans, band shirt, no mohawx,no leather. I love it simple

[@patrickkramer5353]

punk is not about what you wear or how you look. it´s about your mindset!

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

Everything is punk so nothing is punk and punk remains what it started as: an infantile supervised tantrum which is part of and furthers the agenda of the establishment

[@Whitehorse_crimefighter]

That was just a version of american skinhead clothes

[@kateb2643]

Preach. Sticking faithfully to a predetermined fashion style so you can fit in when you go listen to a music style that's been largely unchanged until quite recently just feels like the antithesis of the original movement. I go to shows looking as colourful as I can manage

[@paigedurmis8026]

The the most punk place to buy clothes is a thrift store, but I really do appreciate (some) punk designers and the quality and effort that goes into their garments, I can't afford it, but I don't think that means that it shouldn't exist

[@KaiDecadence]

I agree with this notion. Punk rock was born out of the working class and poverty stricken that turned to music to express themselves and worked with what they could afford hence why the thrift stores were the havens for punks to buy inexpensive clothes and then DIY them to give them character and style. But there's no denying that some of Vivienne Westwood's designs look pretty cool and still give off that kinda vibe even if it goes against the ethos with the outrageous prices. I think so long as people understand that punk is a music-based scene and that you don't need to buy expensive clothes to be a part of it, I think there's room for both.

[@ZwarteKonijn]

Yes to the thrift store! I've also been told that a big part of the look we now see as 'punk' was basically based on things that were available in the thrift stores back then (old army clothes, old working clothes, etc.) that got DIY'd. It might be just my opinion about 'punk clothing', but I think the best punk designers make designs that people in the subculture actually can make/diy themselves, or be inspired by, instead of having to buy it from them. That has at least always been my own outlook at punk designs in fashion.

[@redbluebae4397]

Well let me say it for you, they shouldn’t exist

[@BitterDawn]

@@ZwarteKonijn Good and interesting point on why that aesthetic was incorporated. I had assumed myself that military items like boots were used almost ironically or in a paradoxical manner, use the weapons of the oppressor against them..plus let's be honest, military boots for example are physically just tough and look rad. I also assumed the same for bastardizing "yuppy" or posh sort of clothes, to take something absurd and make a mockery of it by taking it from let's say "high" culture and ripping it down. "I am going to take your over priced clothes, tear them up, stain them and dethrone your ideas of being better because of your clothes and their status" feel.

[@z3phyr666]

based fr. almost all the "punk"/ alternative clothes i wear is stuff i made myself, from thrift stores and mostly both. i don't buy from "normal" stores anymore (i.e target, h&m, etc...)

[@sofaking1611]

Nothing is less punk than thinking you have to look, think, or act a certain way to be punk

[@ashesindarkness93]

punk is not synonymous for rebellion

[@paula-666]

You do have to think a certain way to be punk. Cannot be punk and a nazi, or a typical bigot, for example

[@eujinxed1173]

@@paula-666yeah this is the most accurate if not the only solid set of “rules” to being punk

[@strictnine5684]

@@paula-666tbh I think old school punks would scoff at what yall think punk is 😂

[@spawel1]

peak punk is walter white pre-heisenburg aesthetic

[@kittencore666]

This reminded me of the song "Am I Punk Yet?" By Electro Hippies. It's a song about fashion punks.

[@bernardolopessalles7473]

Also “Flower punk” by Frank Zappa touches on the subject

[@StarlightEater]

I always think about the intro to this song when I dress up in the punk rock uniform.

[@revelrem4409]

Also check out "Punk" by the Ex, from their 1980 Live Skive EP, as well as No Trend's "Punker", from around 1982/1983.

[@kelechi_77]

Part Time Punks by Television Personalities

[@sonwig5186]

@@kelechi_77 My dad always puts that song on when I'm down

[@imprint.mp4]

its hard for me to imagine anything like punk to truly represent its values in today's world. with the rise of the internet/tiktok everything gets commodified to quickly, i think most people wear clothes that they think look cool and what they see on tiktok and it doesnt go much deeper. which is fine but i do wish everything wasn't removed from context like it is now and people actually understood a bit about what their clothes/subculture represented

[@aR0ttenBANANA]

The internet commodifies subculture making it a paradoxical endeavour. It genuinely cannot exist in our post-digital, hyper connected world.

[@bathenhofen]

Back then punk was the counter culture. The counter culture of today is the rejection of identity politics and leftism

[@atuvera9021]

But sometimes we have the movies like Terrifier 3 winning over the other clown one with 200 million budget, Joker folie a deux. The most unhinged sadistic silent clown being a fan favorite over the JOKER it will never not be funny to me.

[@kelechi_77]

It was commodified even back then, by 1977 there was no ''real'' punk, the scene was already dead, same thing happened to no wave, with musicians in that scene saying that it was dead when "No New York" came out. The only thing the internet did was accelerate this commodification, back in the day you had at least 2-3 years before a scene would be mainstream or commodified, now it's more like 2-3 months.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

It represents shit. Punk and all rebellious western subcultures have no deeper meaning. Their rebellion was never their own and their false sense of culture and identity as well. It was all handed down to them by the collective western government. This started with Dadaism which was a failed philosophical movement which was subjugated to be controlled and turned into the abstract art movement of the 50s in America which was directly funded by the CIA and all rebel culture in the west since is a hand of the governments agenda.

[@MyNameHousefly]

I never understand the "non-conformity" argument, I dont necessarily know where it comes from, but an alternative culture is a culture- not all punks dress punk but all punks embody the politics, music, ect. I think that is whats more important. Dress however you want! but if you wear patches and shirts with band logos you will look a little silly if you arent upholding the ideals those bands espouse.

[@skooptywooop1030]

Non conformity in punk was more about not letting fascists tell you what to do but, now, people just use it to say you're not allowed to do anything possibly normal which is stupid and anti-punk. Goths have the same issue rn too,

[@spaghetti5914]

​@skooptywooop1030 as a goth yup, HUGE issue. I love anything "gothic" Goth music, anti conformity, boycotter as much as is realistically possible (and not just for palestine, but because I am anti corporate as a whole), love dark aesthetics, german expressionism, macabre stuff, especially gothic horror literature amd surrealism. Yet some goth gatekeepers will say I don't fit the criteria because I don't dress the way or that I listen to other genres too. Isn't non conformism a part of alternative subcultres lmao. I get when people call out some girl whose only gothic trait is slapping on a black choker and calling herself goth, but this is overboard

[@MyNameHousefly]

@spaghetti5914 Its funny to me because growing up punks and goths listened to their music but we also listened to each others, if we were nerds we probably listened to they might be giants or something, motorhead, it all didnt matter.

[@spaghetti5914]

@MyNameHousefly the thing about nerds is so real because the only thing I've been listening to the last 3 weeks is london after midnight, cosmo sheldrake and the stupendium, which is an odd mix

[@redbluebae4397]

@spaghetti5914Zionism is a decolonization movement so yr just another all too common neo nazi, so you’ll fit in just fine with the yt supremacist side that’s once again common in both goth n punk scenes

[@shaftomite007]

Absolutely LOVE your photographic representation of New York. FREE LUIGI!!!

[@KarlSnarks]

I hope a lot of American punks will DIY their own DENY DEFEND DEPOSE prints on their clothes ;)

[@kbs1212]

​@@KarlSnarks This. So this.

[@ashhtray2003]

@@KarlSnarksi was gonna make a patch of that for my patch pants!!

[@KarlSnarks]

@@ashhtray2003 nice, will look great :)

[@パガイ]

@ KarlSnarks I got a christmas sweater in the works ;p

[@s1ckboirari]

The worst part is, John, Sid and Steve Jones all had horrible childhoods. Just for Malcolm to take them, give them the promise of fame and that assumedly money would come raking in after they get an album out. He was the absolute definition of a Capitalistic money grubby super establishment specs on this world his band hated so much

[@PuffinPass]

I walked away from punk dressing in the 80s when I was in high school and came to the realization it was just another uniform showing conformity to a specific groups ideals. That is the antithesis of what punk was or is. Punk is a mindset not the safety pinned jacket, liberty spikes or the Docs used to identify you as a member of a specific group.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

Punk ideologically and philosophically is nothing more than extremist ideas of the people who rule the world financially. So the Punk mindset is nothing to keep as part of your identity. Punk was birthed by the establishment as a tool of it.

[@SeRSi239]

This is actually a very good point. From the start, punk has been shown as the opposite of what it's promised to be: a brand and a standard (for example, the bassist of sex pistols being kicked out because he had glasses...)

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

@SeRSi239 Punk was promised to be a safe outlet for rebellion and decadence and it was. Punk is not based in its branding. It's branding makes it sound deeper than it is.

[@nood1le]

Yes that's exactly what I believe so too. You've put it in such great words.

[@doviart-fashiondesignersli5161]

What a pleasant discovery while drinking my coffee and thinking about next collection. Being born into occupied country ( Lithuania, one of former ussr republic) my teenage brain was blown away when a friend of mine first played for me a smuggled punk album and a discovery of punk clothes. The diy aspect of it just opened door for me to a true freedom. Excellent dissection of Punk and the work of my beloved designers. Subscribed.

[@asagotchi]

The Japanese fashion world's obsession with Vivienne Westwood, the Sex Pistols, and overall punk aesthetics is epitomized in mangaka Ai Yazawa's work (who was a fashion student probably around the same time as the Harajuku punk boom). Her manga, "NANA", features multiple Westwood pieces (and even actually namedrops her) and references the Sex Pistols (namedrops them as well, along with a major character who's heavily inspired by Sid Vicious!). I would highly recommend anyone who loves Westwood and Harajuku to check NANA out

[@Madzillahx]

NANA MENTIONED!!!! i finished it the other day and it had my wuh luh wuh self in tears

[@toidIllorTAmI]

Please warn people that it is a very triggering and sad Manga/Anime. So much that the creator herself took a break from it to focus on happy things...🩷

[@rincewind4202]

​@@toidIllorTAmIthat's not what happened. She was hospitalized for almost a year and after being discharged stated that even if she wasn't sick anymore she can't work on the manga because staying at a drawing desk and working for hours on end causes her extreme physical pain

[@toidIllorTAmI]

@@rincewind4202 exactly

[@flaps8283]

maybe one day we can get a manga continuation like how Miura had Mori work on berserk

[@rolaskatox2828]

this reminded me of a south park episode with the goth kids: Pete: I'm not doin' it. Being in a dance group is totally conformist. Henrietta: Yeah. I'm not conforming to some dance-off regulations. Firkle: I'm not doin' it either. I'm the biggest nonconformist of all. Michael: I'm such a nonconformist that I'm not going to conform with the rest of you. Okay, I'll do it

[@GeeEm1313]

South Park is for the lowest common denominator.

[@Gian_Valkiri]

this paradox always hauted me in fashion design college. It always exist in the firsts years of course, someone that use Punk as the inspiration and always is someone ripping off vivienne westwood and using plaid but they don't think if they are punk. One time the teacher giving a lecture suggested to a group that they change the theme of the clothe because it was "Punk without meaning" R.I.P Vivienne but she was not punk the entire carrer. I call the phase with Sex boutique the "Punk phase" and the phase with Vivienne Westwood label the "New Romantic phase" she was very influential in both eras and a cutie till her death

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

There is no contradiction. Punk as well as all scenes and subcultures arrive at the core from finance capitals cultural war on humanity. It was always a part of the establishment. It only fooled you to think it wasn’t.

[@toidIllorTAmI]

​@daseapickleofjustice7231 she was the only punk around fancy fashion. She just refused to lower her prices due to her greed.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

@@toidIllorTAmI this is completely irrelevant to anything I said. Still Vivienne Westwood was a demon and the world is better off without her. I like high fashion but all houses and names today are evil and follow an evil agenda. People who sperg out over a rare hand crafted piece don't understand how the western fashion landscape is so rotten that they are sperging out over a crumb when in another society we could have the entire loaf.

[@konbanwabardiel]

Another designer that I could say embodies the idea of punk is Alexander McQueen, from the youngest of six children to becoming the epitome of what fashion has to offer not as medium but rather as a bridge between life and death. His coming up age first “professional”runway show literally representing all the atrocities and torture Britain did to Scottish women and how they’ve never been accountable for it. Never afraid of speaking his mind out and letting everyone know how disgust he was with the fashion industry. He may have never did actual punk clothing but he was the living embodiment of “too fast to live, too young to die”. Rip Lee. Great vid though and you’re completely right about punk always being contradictory even to the point that calling yourself “punk” makes you automatically not punk. Like that DC character once said “it’s not about the money…it’s about sending a message.”

[@alexanderleuchte5132]

Punk ain't no religious cult Punk means thinking for yourself You ain't hardcore when you spike your hair When a jock still lives inside your head - DK

[@alexanderleuchte5132]

@@petermgruhn Are you German or of Kraut descent?

[@crossthreaded6867]

I like your dad's take on punk. It's not nearly as ideological as some people say, it can honestly be kind of shallow at times. It is what it is, but it's important to show people that they can and should do what they want and pursue creativity.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

It is nothing and all it is is a way to subjugate men into a false sense of opposition when they are under total control in fact.

[@smallcryingchild9322]

The take on a wojack parody in the thumbnail is insanely great

[@Westlake72]

Punk was always a bag full of contradictions right from day one. Leftist, anti-racist, swastika wearing, anti-fashion, fashionable, creative, destructive, indivistic, tribalistic, conformist, spontaneous, contrived, anti-intellectual, inspired by french intellectuals (Guy Debord et al). One of the main, and maybe its most important, ethos is a DIY attitude whether that be for music, fanzines, or fashion but Vivienne Westwood herself has stated that she hated it when people would make there own punk clothing by ripping up their T-shirts. Vivienne wanted people to buy them from her and Malcolm's shop.

[@AtZero138]

Why we've always called them.. Fashion Punk's... And refer to the Sex Pistols as a Boy Band... Cheers from Westminster CA 🇺🇸 Oi Oi Oi

[@aria2aria2]

Do you have a source for when Vivienne said that? I’d like to know more about it.

[@nevadaite]

@@aria2aria2 one of the employees at sex, chrissie hynde, allegedly made a tweet about it but i couldn't find it! doesn't appear that vivienne ever said that online or in an interview, but if she did it's coming from chrissie

[@Westlake72]

​@@aria2aria2 I don't I'm afraid but it was from a television interview.

[@xavier4519]

that's what's so funny about working class fashion, it can be adopted by high fashion but it will never be that because it's a material objective statement

[@SimonGarcia-il8dj]

I enjoy both hardcore punk music and fashion. Obvious contradiction there. I've come to terms with the fact that literally no fashion is "real hardcore", and if you try to be "real hardcore" you can't even buy cloths, so there's a middle ground somewhere.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

Hope you can come to terms with that all subcultures and scenes arrive from earlier cultural movements that at their core arrive from an artificial culture funded by the CIA in the late 40 early 50s. This is why all subcultures are western and propagate the agenda of the collective western establishment. There was never a contradiction. Being part of a subculture enslaves your identity and by extension mind and ideologically you become a soldier of western finance capital and London banksters in their cultural war on humanity.

[@Scscruster]

Does this mean you gotta be bootie butt naked to be hardcore???

[@magnezoleum]

The solution is to realize that ppl fearmonger abt fashion nonstop and that there's literally nothing wrong with dressing to celebrate and show off your subculture. Seeing someone wear something and thinking "damn I could put that on" isn't mindless conformity, it's how taste is formed. I have a long history with DIY hardcore and i make references to it in my outfits, though I've moved to other genres. White belts, emo hair, tight ass striped shirts like Johnny Whitney. Hardcore ABSOLUTELY has fashion history and I engage with it out of love for the genre. After years in the hxc scene hearing people yap on how caring about fashion is a mind disease (while using clothes to signal how much they don't care), Im happy to be in the rap world where nobody gives a shit. The ~punk mentality~ i was around led me to delay a passion of mine for years for fear of being "shallow". All that happened is I had no idea how to dress. Funny enough, a TON of fashion that originated in hardcore lives on thru underground rap more than anywhere.

[@chillfactory9000]

if you tried to be "real" hardcore, not only would you not be allowed to buy clothes, you'd be living on a property in the middle of nowhere like its 1503.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

@ the most hardcore thing you can do is reject individualistic commodity lables like subcultures and live your life as a pragmatist

[@lr4109]

I think the interpretation of the burka garments is easy. He was humanising Muslims which is pretty punk for the time. However, he is also critiquing Islam at the same time, which again is punk. It comes from a place of empathy and perhaps it wasn’t clear for him either what his art meant

[@sebastisn3709]

+1

[@AphexWithTheTwins]

+1

[@yume5162]

I totally agree with this and thought the same as a muslim myself who thinks the same way as him!!!!! I am a muslim, yes. However i have so many points in "Islam" that i disagree with and go against sometimes. Mostly just cultural factors that are considired as islam but is actually againts the values of it. In society Muslims are mostly dehumanized as terrorists which is umm??? I also felt the discrimination towards them to my stomach naturally :D I love punk for this, it fights for rotten parts of society and humanity. They are not afraid to point out what everyone is afraid to.

[@KarlSnarks]

@@yume5162 Yeah, I'm not Muslim myself but think this is probably the difference between plain islamophobia and genuine criticism of oppression within Islamic cultures. It has to come from a place of empathy and understanding that the problem is not that the religion itself is evil or something. Just like with other Abrahamic religions it's powerful men that interpret the teachings to benefit their position of power, and have most influence the way society interprets them.

[@MaxMustermann-ur4dc]

why do you have empathy for facist- religious fantasy believe systems?

[@mallshoggoth]

glad to finally see this topic being treated with the nuance it deserves and without trying to smooth over the inherent contradictions

[@kelechi_77]

The Electric Eels were the first to wear safety pins in 1975. They were part of the early Ohio punk scene with bands like DEVO, the Dead Boys and Pere Ubu, their drummer Nick Knox went on to join the Cramps.

[@PariahThistledowne]

And I happily wore them in my ear and nose over a decade later.

[@Karma-wy7xv]

RIP. Vivienne Westwood

[@cartoonhyperfixated]

0:48 boycott shein

[@johnhinojosa421]

bro finally came back

[@Madzillahx]

Just showered, got my meal ready, layered myself in my grubby little blankets, and even put the recliner UP. This video was calling my name, and it's so refreshing to see such an in-depth, researched video about something punk related! Keep up the great work man!!! :)

[@DEVOn.A.Skertic]

One of the best videos essays I have viewed this year. Pure brilliance!

[@AnoNymous-nm6mm]

What a fantastic video. I liked the dissent against the scholarly article’s perception of the use of the burka. The effort to research and develop coherent opinions about a topic is super admirable.

[@whatevadad1312]

Thank you sooo so much for this video! my boyfriend has always loved punk music and fashion so much and this was such a good way for me to get my head around it in like a combined, omnibus way because I often find the timeline of the development so confusing ! VERY GOOD VIDEO BIG THANK

[@AtZero138]

Depends on.. how much is known about the.. Fashion Punk look.. Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood.. creating this fashion look.. to promote their Shop.. even the Bringing together a Boy Band like the Sex Pistols..

[@patriciahammondsongs]

Fabulous and incredibly detailed and researched video. Subscribed. My two-bits worth is that I'd say Chelsea wasn't posh back in the 60s/70s. It was considered to be kind of freaky, full of art teachers and retired dancers. (Ironically, nowadays only rich people can afford to do THESE jobs)

[@ishuboshi]

Immediately excited that you're talking about american protopunk

[@w1n6er12]

the author is talented af so many topics that are really closely-related. great work, a very one

[@apa5749]

in mid 2000's i used to hangout with the local punk rock people in my hometown since my early teenage years to my early 20's. there was this one guy who played guitar in a band that had already existed since the 90's. if you looked at his face, you could see that he saw some shit. anyway, he once told me "punk is dead because of punk itself". as a teenager i never understood that, then i grew up and see that every rebellious subculture like punk dies because it became solely a trendy fashion. this also happens in other fashion trends like how there are so many men who don't even work blue collar jobs now wear Carhartt as trendy fashion. i once heard someone calls it "podcast guys outfit" and it always makes me laugh. this is also why there's so many rappers these days trying to act tough when they've never even been gang members or even spent years behind bars.

[@therealhaalia]

"He can't even answer the most basic questions without being insufferable" Kinda on-brand for punks ngl

[@MatthewHodges-k1m]

Oh yeah?

[@redbluebae4397]

Hahah iktr

[@catgirllover42]

i have a cold and just found myself watching this video and im enjoying it so much youve got something good going bro much love

[@senseiimmandi]

I know I’m not op but this comment made me smile I hope u feel better

[@glock-kay]

@@senseiimmandi fr

[@glock-kay]

If you're into tea, I suggest you drink a cup. Makes a feel a lil better, gws tho :)

[@catgirllover42]

@ thank you yea im in japan its nice that they have hot tea that you can take out of a warm fridge in convenience stores

[@catgirllover42]

@@senseiimmandi 🥹❤️

[@PerfectRodo]

Thank you! Banger of a video! I recently heard a commentary KZbinr say that sincere commentary KZbin is the new punk rock, which while self serving, also carries a lot of truth - your video is true DIY from the heart. Thank you for sharing such a thoroughly researched and beautiful deep dive. ❤

[@frainthesnow]

this editing style >>>> on top

[@dumbhead9721]

what a fantastic spoken essay, was extremely informative + i loved ur middle-ground opinions n being open 2 interpretation ! extremely well written + also funny i loved it . keep going + making more ! u did gr8 :3

[@bobycarlucho2654]

An important thing to note is that punk is a totally flexible movement, especially when we take into consideration that the punk movement practically reaches the entire world (especially leaving aside the fashion issue), which leads to different punk-regional moments, thus having philosophies , fashion, criticisms and totally different worldview, (sorry if the translation is bad, I'm just a Brazilian who loves the punk movement)

[@robinfrost]

ugh, zombie is notorious for being such a twat in camden town. the stories i’ve heard about him is truly unfathomable. his lil “punk” scene are not great people. watch out for zombie folks

[@bugorgans]

wrong trousers somehow delivered on EXACTLY what i needed EXACTLY when i needed it. thanks mr trousers

[@plant705]

OBSESSED with the editing here - wonderful visuals!!!

[@angelhoods]

I expected to hate watch this and found it incredibly well-researched and informative-this is one of the first channels I’ve found that takes fashion history really seriously and isn’t just surface level yapping. if anyone can recommend other current fashion writers or youtubers who are doing this level of analysis I would be so grateful! 💓

[@icantchooseanic2729]

Mina Le makes videos about fashion! Check them out, they're really well-made

[@killitwithfire5377]

I personally really like modern girlz. She‘s not super heavy on the history but I love the way she analyzes fashion styles, I think she has a really good eye. Haute la mode largely does reaction content about high fashion but he has an absolutely enzyclopedic knowledge of anything high fashion. It really helped me understand the scene and industry and why designers do what they do. He is very critical, but naturally this also involves glorifying overpriced brands a bit. I don‘t agree with him on that much, especially taste wise, but it‘s very insightful.

[@hardingjack]

was just rewatching all ur vids yesterday and then u dropped

[@meow-ds9ko]

such a great video! i love how you seamlessly connect things throughout the discussion and your jokes are engaging too. good job, sadly really underrated content

[@djadelaney]

30 foot fall is one of my very favorite punk bands because they so explicitly denounce the aesthetic in so much of their music. entertainment vs. enlightenment

[@Eduardo.Glbo26]

27:21 belgium mentioned this has to be the greatest acomplishment in my nation's history

[@swizzlyswallows8250]

Bro just wrote an academic thesis. Great work man.

[@valmarsiglia]

Nice to see Richard Hell getting his due. A small-town boy from Kentucky who basically created the punk look.

[@LucyNickerson-i2j]

WEEZER MENTIONED💯💯‼️‼️🔥🔥

[@beesnuts2918]

this was so insightful. i was sketching along inspired by all the outfits until the paradox part came and it stopped me in my tracks. amazing soothing video

[@_sandy_]

the last third of this video essay was soooo good. i think the middle third was a bit long though and was too much filler for what actually needed to be said. great work, keep it up :D

[@emiliaburgos5404]

I love how you edited the video 🔥 and the narration

[@quingles]

man, this video got a lot more philosophical than i expected. loved it as always. aristotle. plato. confucius. wrong trousers.

[@kkarhiiv95]

The Vegeta image is killing me lol.

[@marlindawey4624]

Wow fantastic video, thank you so much! everything was on point, I'm glad you made this!

[@yume5162]

I dont think punk is about being a stinky broke homeless dealer but rather shouting out and touching heavy topics that people often abandon and prefer to stay quite about (they shouldnt) Such as some wars happening around the globe rn. Punk is about fighting for what people dont by making statements with every genre of art which includes fashion. I dont care if someone who is living a 1st class luxry life calling themself punk as long as they use that power to do what their similars dont. Its about raising awareness and being "rebellious" (we all know that if you are a minority youll always get discriminated and seen as rebellious even if youre fighting for good) In times of making your voice heard, having more reputation and recognition is so beneficial. I'm not talking specifically about Vivienne Westwood or any other brands turned out to be a luxry tho. For example people calling Green Day a poser band just because they are popular and mostly rich cant understand that the more people know them the more they are heard and more awareness and change to the society is made. Sadly majority of ppl lack the capacity to understand this as well as some ppl who listen to punk music. They sometimes think its just about being a scary trouble causing harmful a'hole who breaks everything. Nope! Punk is about shouting outs, statements and fighting for good by making art. At least thats my personal understanding on punk. I wont be defending if this is not punk at all tho. It can stay as my own idea separated from what actually punk is. Really cool video by the way! Been really helpful for me to understand the history of punk fashion a little bit more as someone who is trying to get in a fashion school. Hope i can be successful at making art to change the world even just a little.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

Punk is a tool, like all subcultures and scenes, of the western establishment. It is part of finance capitals cultural war on humanity. There is no deeper meaning. Philosophically it is irrelevant, ideologically it is irrelevant, it lives to serve a greater agenda based in financial interests.

[@coldwarveteran]

I agree with what you said. punk (like you said) isn't about fashion or background, and more about being heard. I don't get how people can call themselves punk when they don't fight for what they believe

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

@coldwarveteran the entire rebellion of Punk is an anti rebellion. Punk was created by capital, to pretend to fight capital but actually just fight human civilization and distract young people to ensure serious communist organisation do not happen. Punk fights humanity instead of helping humanity fight capital thus Punk is a slave of capital.

[@TheDRGSdontWork]

happy you’re back , love ur videos

[@Waynimations]

Matt Ox in da building got me cracking up 🤣

[@kcilw]

Honestly One of the best fashion videos i've ever seen

[@blazedoctopus158]

I Love your videos, top quality as always. Hope to see another one soon!

[@corod-1]

Bravo! This is so well done. You researched the right things and presented this topic in the best way I have seen in 40 years...

[@DeadWhiteButterflies]

"I connect to punk deeply and believe in rebellion" - - - man who's never had to worry about paying a gas bill on time.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

The idea punk is connected with rebellion and not a tool to contain rebellion is ridiculous

[@MaxiFR]

Genuinely a great video! Props to you brother

[@ratadedospatas561]

Actually, CONTRARY TO POPULAR BELIEF, the birth of punk was in Peru with the band 'Los Saicos', which in 1964 released their song 'Demolición'.

[@valmarsiglia]

¡Vivan Los Saicos!

[@vanillaprincess42]

Es una canción tipo surf rock más bien que era lo que estaba de moda también por esa época

[@metal-pillow]

a very very high quality in depth and comprehensive video. has me all fired up to make some video of my own, concerning a topic which interests me. really gained hella insights into the punkk origin and contemporary relevance

[@ZF-cw5bu]

another insane video, keep it up bro please I need these in my life

[@sebp400]

what about Crass and Discharge? They looked much cooler than the Pistols.They influenced the all-black styles way more.

[@yazoshaughnessy7429]

What an excellent video. Love the research put into the Jun SCAB burqa tangent. I grew up muslim and have been in and out of punk scenes and hearing some analysis of this moment is very interesting. I'm not a huge fan of how designers like Takahashi have commodified art movements but it's complex given the origins of the Punk Fashion scene. SCAB is such a juicy moment in fashion history to take apart - a Japanese designer, inspired by the UK's designers foray into a US-originated music/diy scene, makes a fashion line which both commodifies a anti-materialistic Crust punk culture and appropriates the cultural dress of a burqa, and is also at the same time a love letter to the rebellious nature of punk. What a global moment

[@ChloeJponygirl]

As someone who turned my very broken jeans from my teens into patch/crust pants (they aren't crusty yet but it served my inspo!) I can fully apprechiate the sentiment of a single seam being 90 Euro at 45:40, I'm obviously by no means a steamstress/seamster as these folks are but I really do apprechiate the work and I love the look of my upcycled trousers! This was a brilliant video, thank you for making it :)

[@cancerouscorndog6425]

“I dont believe in consistency”

[@Juleslshaw]

I didnt know anything about this scene before this vid. Great vid

[@kagundkunz9477]

Thank you for this deeply researched video! Great Channel! Greetings from Germany!

[@protojager]

Punk is about self expression, so as long as your sense of "self" isn't whatever is popular or trendy only then you're good. Spending a chunk of change on clothes you like isn't a bad thing in my opinion, you just have to make sure you're not buying it because "it's punk, I wanna look punk". I've always wanted a Sherpa denim jacket and just spent like $70-100 on a brand new one, sure I would have jumped at the chance to thrift one in my size but I can justify the cost for my own happiness and warmth.

[@Rain-b7h4t]

Being punk is a mindset not a style 🗣️🗣️

[@444zzz]

Protect your people, your nature, your animals around you, show love and integrity

[@Procc75]

being punk is being kindness and chaos in a rigid, cold world. Thats it.

[@AeolianSkinner]

There was a 2013 Punk retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC. It was the big summer blockbuster exhibition attracting thousands of spectators. Kids, come to terms, dyed hair and plaid slacks is no longer shocking 50 years into it, the same way long hair and beads looks outdated. Oi, oi, oi...vey

[@MaxMustermann-ur4dc]

yeah....the burka is really a sign of self-expression and freedom LOL

[@berserkboi1217]

Fashion Coolea is my favorite new channel

[@nicks4802]

Nothing but respect for those who make their own. Its all dedication. It doesn’t have to be “official” to be punk. Thats why a misfits bootleg record could be worth so much. DIY ethics and carving your own path IS punk. Running down to the shop to buy a carbon copy of what everyone else is wearing is whack. Make your own, save your money, and be unique.

[@dezolatetrax]

literally this been in my mind for a long time,

[@Projectex44]

My boy is back hell yeahh

[@1missworld-]

the cut to the emo wolf in between levi's interview is so funny

[@cyan_oxy6734]

Watched a couple of your videos to saw some wood to and it was really pleasant having hearing you talk.

[@therandomcatalt5242]

Watching punk get watered down has been so depressing

[@ppdestroyer9794]

this video is fantastic and so well researched -awesome

[@Prettyinpink220]

I love you for your editing 😂 1:20

[@grenoblica]

The nyc image kills ayy

[@esteban8532]

i’m 12 min in and i just absorbed everything you said like a sponge, i wished i was this way in school, well you’re actually interesting… unlike my lousy teachers.

[@EMMmaximino]

you gotta do one on the "indie/ art scene fashion scene. good stuff.

[@cj8783]

You should make more videos on the fashion of music genres. You should do glam metal or speedmetal.

[@inconsistizzy]

absolutely amazing video

[@kenyattaleefrazierIII]

this guys videos are so addictive

[@joesligo1516]

this video is fantastic. thank you

[@warmjets45]

great video. keep up the good work 👍🏾

[@khris461]

To add in my opinion: Punk is the post-modern version of the community of leftist movements in the modern era. The original soviets or any leftist movement pre punk were the original cultures being against the status quo. With its own uniform and ideology. In the post modern era (know for contradictions and deconstruction) in the west due to failed revolutions. People living wanted a way to rebel without actually taking any action. Thus created the right conditions for punk to emerge. And often design just reflects the times. So punk fashion was just showing people who decided to look different in a very conservative west. It’s no surprise neoliberalism rose around this same time. Commodifying punk and selling it back to the consumer is not only very neoliberal but very post-modern. It’s basically an era of paradox. So this paradox that has been created is just a reflection of our contradictory times. Just like being a leftist is now few and far between So is being punk and dressing unique . This is a contradiction that will never be solved until we dismantle neoliberalism or dismantle the current state of things which will move us into a new era. Sorry for my random stream of conscious thoughts but I think understanding where we are in the world can show why these designs emerge. Why to be punk can now no longer have meaning and why the alternative fashion is simply just fashion now. Margiela I think tried to get around this for so long but his retirement showed that there’s no beating the system .

[@scruff4587]

Punk-as-commodity is not punk and people who engage with it are not punk. It's an argument of definition: - If you consider the larger aesthetic/core (which is commodified, and the general societal idea of what punk is), then your postmodernist take is accurate. - If you consider punk to be a group of ideologies that (among many things) informs how people present, then your postmodernist take is inaccurate (for most of these ideologies anyway). Of course there's a debate about the meaning of a thing if a group projects a (different, not-the-original) meaning onto it.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

You’re completely incorrect. First communism is the real movement. It is not a subculture. Proletkult is not a socialist cultural movement, it is a HUMAN cultural movement. Communism is human, THE REAL MOVEMENT. Then you are wrong about punk being organic or being a pro leftist movement. Of course the term leftist has been meaningless in the west after WW2 so use it how you want idc. Punk was a movement which arrived from earlier art movements like the wave of abstract art of the 50s. This art movement was completely funded by the CIA as a means to combat Soviet Realism. The CCCP was the best at painting so the west broke the rules and declared splashing paint on a canvas was greater art. Do not forget that according to communist belief human art is objective. Now punk arrives from this time when the finance capitalists have made “rebellious” art already a soldier of the establishment. The 50s had a lot of popular communist movements in the west. To weaken the youth the state invents drugs and sells them in secret to weaken youth movements which created the hippie culture of the 60s. During the 70s the west needs to create an artificial movement based on nothing meaningful which can be an alternative outlet for these drugged up teens rebellion. They created punk. Punk is an enemy of communism. Punk destroyed western communism along other similar subcultures. This is why the Soviet Union hated punk. This is why Punk took form in Rossia as a reactionary force. This is why communism is anti degenerate. When you become punk you sell your identity and mind into slavery of the finance capitalists. You become a soldier in their culture war against human culture. Subculture. A Sub sect of culture, a false sect of culture which is anti human culture. Reaction reaction reaction is ALL the west knows. You need to make some pointless reaction against a movement which was already a reaction against something pointless. This is what the City of London and their banksters want. Learn this once and for all: communism is the real movement because it doesn’t react it explains reality and it acts upon it with a strategy to victory. It is not fun, it is not cultural it is human. It isn’t concerned with individuals at all nor any moralism. YOU as a person is totally insignificant to communism. Communism only needs your total submission and your martyrdom.

[@daseapickleofjustice7231]

⁠@@scruff4587 Punk is not at all an ideology. Punk is a culturification of an agenda of the collective west establishment. This agenda may disguise itself as ideology but it only serves capitals interests. It is postmodernist not because it is culture which it isnt but because it replaced culture. Postmodernism replaced human culture with artificial culture that serves capital.

[@kelechi_77]

@@scruff4587 it's a question of if punk ideology was just purely idealist, it's not achievable, it's just a regurgitation on what previous subcultures (the hippies, beatniks... etc.) posited and failed to accomplish but from a different angle, and a signal to all future subcultures who would do the same.

[@agomodern]

Responding to the thumbnail, it is the difference between living it and dreaming about living it.