The Raw Selvedge Denim Renaissance

Instagram: / jojpant
Music:
• Space Prophet
This video is about the history of Raw/Selvedge denim and the latest trend revolving around it
Other subjects include: The Osaka 5, Studio D'Artisan, Denime, Evisu, Full Count, Warehouse & Co., Oni Denim, Kapital, Momotaro, Naked and Famous, Sugarcane denim, samurai, Yuremane, K-two Studios, Acne Studios, Shuttle Loom, Nep and Slub

[@143jcm]

could you do a 3 hour analysis on the nike tech fleece?

[@blockwearingman]

❤

[@1gamermanv]

finally something good to watch while I eat my food

[@Zeekikun]

Been into raw denim for 6 years. This is one of the best videos on the topic I've seen

[@workingbutnotreally]

lol I just saw your comment about pure blue under the "internets favorite t-shirts" video

[@MrJfergs]

best fashion youtuber by a longshot.

[@criswillick5828]

this is frugal aesthetic blasphemy

[@Max25670]

@@criswillick5828 bro just shills his overpriced brand half the time

[@advo6512]

​@@criswillick5828 I love frugal but he just straight up says nothing of value for like 10/12 minutes every vid

[@bladedress]

@@criswillick5828lol i love frugal but he’s more of an entertainer, less of a teacher im learning quite a bit from this video 😂

[@blockwearingman]

onjectivly

[@spxcex]

I don't even care about denim but I could listen to you yap about anything for hours (your editing is also entertaining asf) Never had a fashion channel make me laugh before, infinite charisma

[@MN-vw2lo]

Back in the early-mid 2000s when I was graduating high school and finally had disposable income I bought a ton of 501s, they were my favorite jeans, then in my mid 20s I gained a ton of weight and couldn't fit them anymore. I ended up donating to a guy who was my size who lost his house in a fire. Now that I'm not fat anymore and could fit those old jeans I regret not keeping a few pairs.

[@weedsocks]

"$20 selvedge" it's so over we might be on the brink of a renaissance (glass half full) great vid, copped the ametora book and subbed to you. cheers!

[@richmatic1169]

Never thought I'd see JNCO style come back but here we are.

[@sebastianlogue7219]

19:27 I have 100 days and 2 washes in my ONI-222 super wides and I have distinct fades throughout, so it’s not impossible. Also worth noting: a huge reason for lack of wide selvedge cuts is patterning limitation. Selvedge/shuttle yardage is incredibly narrow compared to projectile fabric. When leg pattern pieces become too wide, they have to be staggered along the length of the selvedge fabric and orientation is locked by selvedge ID which dramatically increases scrap and cost. This makes super baggy selvedge infeasible from a business standpoint in addition to the other points made in the video.

[@Ztram2]

I tried on a pair of Oni-222s at a local Selvedge denim store and I'm pissed I didn't buy them. I think about it every couple days lol. Really hope they release more in that cut.

[@edwingonzalez7691]

​@@Ztram2That's how I feel about the 20oz Oni-200's that just came out. If they had released later this week I would have been able to grab them from Blue Owl

[@sam1207]

Great video. I just finished reading Ametora the other day so was nice to see it referenced here, really enjoyed it. Also really appreciated that this video essay didn't just do the surface level basic history of denim like everyone does, it actually got the details right and was nice seeing someone talk about selvedge denim through a lense that is similar to mine, and has context of current fashion trends. I am very interested in the topic but most content on it is based on the raw denim demographic of a middle aged hipster, so this video was a really nice change of pace. Would gladly welcome any additional content on the topic :) Also the animation you made on the warp/weft was fantastic and worth the effort.

[@natural_lucidity9781]

i been rockin a pair of 20oz oni denim. feels like im wearing armour I love the feeling! they also have a green hue that fades to a more teal than blue

[@theduke7268]

This is one of the best videos I've ever seen explaining selvedge denim.

[@dalegaliniak607]

As an old-school raw denim head, I'd say that a more loose fit (straight fit) was the historical norm when jeans were work clothes. You see it in the old photos of miners in the west wearing them, it's just through the 2010s, skinnier, heavily tapered jeans were the fashion and, like you mentioned, they're the best for really quick fades. As someone with tree trunks for legs, it was rough, because I would need to dig into the Japanese brands that really embraced the heritage wear to find something that I could pull up over my calves without going with a waist that was four sizes too big.

[@__lawrell]

Been into raw denim on and off for about 10 years now, and I've noticed that a more "naturalistic" approach to fades became pretty common too (as opposed to going out of your way to not wash your jeans for high contrast fades). I do remember back then that washing your jeans early was frowned upon but nowadays washing your jeans normally like your other pants is common, at least the last time I visited /r/rawdenim it looked fine. It'll still fade your jeans, just in a much more uniform way.

[@juliancarter-qb4ln]

This is super true. I remember the common sentiment was you would go 6 months no wash as the bare minimum + everyone was super particular about the type of detergent to use. Washing got so extreme and fade focused that people would do Ocean washes. Now people just chuck them in the washing machine and call it a day. Might be because back then raw denim was way niche(before naked famous/Gap/unbranded took off on making raw selvedge) and the only way to find out about it for the most part was reading through hella forums so the average consumer was way more informed/researched.

[@RichardHorpe]

@@juliancarter-qb4ln vintage fades is definitely the thing right now. at some point people were just being too tryhard and basically using sand paper or chemicals to achieve high contrast denim fades, basically steroid issue in the denim community. and then people look at jeremy allen white or daniel craig and realize vintage fades is the way.

[@n_ave]

as someone whos only really gotten into selvedge in the last 2-3 years, ive been opting for the skinnier* (*straight leg) silhouettes as i find they're better fitting for me. sure, i like the trends of modern times, and i'm not trying to position myself as someone who is so super different, but i personally have been opting for clothing with story or quality over the newest baggy jeans and baby tee, or frye boots, nike dunks, and sambas. i think there will be a divide in the people that care for the craftsmanship and quality of the clothing, and the people that want to continue following trends. on a side note, for those who might read this and wonder what i've got! ONI Kasuri 17oz, Samurai Lot 23 15oz, and Tanuki Zetto 14.75oz :D. I think that selvedge, and japanese denim will have a rise and fall like the margiela and various other branded tabi's of recent times. people will either stick with them and make them an identity of themselves, or they will move on when the hype dies.

[@n_ave]

side note; great video! really enjoyed the editing and i think its really informative :D

[@HeyLookaSandwich]

Best channel on KZbin

[@memopinzon]

DENIM IS LOVE DENIM IS LIFE

[@thepetemachine999]

Great summary and discourse. I made a pair a selvage jeans in the style of carhatt work pants about a year ago and have been super satisfied with the outcome. I read a brief article about selvage denim and thought it was cool but they were expensive and too skinny so thought might as well use the money to buy a sewing machine and make them myself how I like! Looks like the rest of the world has caught on that they don’t need to suffocate your legs

[@RLSteffler]

I've been into selvedge but I never spend big on clothes, ended up finding Naked and Famous King of Slub in my size at my local Value Village lmfao paid about 5% of the retail price

[@venca955]

Nicely done! Have been in the community for a while, but you also managed to teach me something new, mainly about the Japanese part of the culture. Thank you for this!

[@ZF-cw5bu]

lets go my favorite ytber posted

[@Blacklotusleather]

I think this renaissance is great. I’ve been into raw selvedge since a teen, I’m 30 now, and one thing I didn’t always like is the cosplay-ish feeling I got from the heritage scene. I’m all in with new silhouettes with this fabric.

[@mrlolmaster1019]

just me watching this video with my shyt stained raw selvedge unwashed jeans Ive been wearing for a year.

[@kellarkilerm4]

the cock and ball outline joke is so good

[@jaewannjoseph]

LMAO I'm go glad I'm not basic bc 20:00 was hilarious 🤣🤣🤣

[@yasirnaimi6675]

Some brands you guys can check out I’ve been into denim for the past 2 years and these are the ones :) -Iron Heart -Oni -Wearhouse -N&F -Freenote Cloth -SugerCane -Momotaro -BlackSign -Edwin Japan -Indigofera -Nudie -Rouge Territory (Rgt denim)

[@rsjr9355]

I need to be honest, my parents traumatized me with jeans, I can't wear any jeans or denim or these things, never bought one lmoa I am glad for the channel growth man, congrats on 50k. you gave me cool advice on a precedent video, I love it. thanks to your videos, I develop more shit, and try to wear different styles of clothing that what I have been used to. It's cool way to express my creativity and thrift shops are cool as I am poor. but jeans , I stay away from this now meh

[@ethanmiller631]

24 mins video about selvage denim without mentioning selvage jorks is like discussing WW2 without (T)itler

[@kohort1]

1993-2000 i has a pair of z cavarici wide jeans (not the bag tapered trousers they were famous for in the late 80s). They were actually more "raver" than hip hop which i was definitely more into.

[@JamieGibbons-q1o]

kudos on the thumbnail btw v good

[@nniicckktt]

Most of the brands in the “raw” denim world are still sanforizing most of the jeans that they’re producing just fyi. Don’t have to worry about shrinkage with most of the stuff on the market. Great video regardless 🙌

[@TheMangoMike]

I tend to stick to straight cut selvedge, it’s classic and it’s not too skinny

[@invaderstimpy5458]

Great thumbnail mate 😎

[@TheMangoMike]

If you want cheap slevedge buy Unbranded brand, their jeans are $100-$140 and it’s a sub brand of N&F that j doesn’t advertise or anything so they can cut cost. I have 2 pairs of their jeans and highly recommend them, just double check the sizing chart and size it how they instruct you to

[@xecten9445]

have you listened to avery truffleman’s articles of interest? I love the series and maybe you would too

[@boredomes]

2 mins in and I can tell this is going to be a banger. I’ve been wearing rawz 10+ years but always mixed feelings about the whole herritage hypebeast cuffing your jeans bs. This is the first point in time where I’ve really noticed more people wearing selvedge. And specifically girls. Because ultimately women’s fashion trends dictate men’s fashion trends I think this current wave is going to dwarf the boom of the early 2010s. Selvedge denim is only just one type of fabric though don't hyper fixate. And get them hemmed!!

[@jassdailyblip513]

Would love to hear your opinions on yuremane a little more! I feel compared to those other shitty instagram brands that made “raw selvedge jeans” just for a cash grab, nik and yuremane have a little more history with them, as he originally started off by making 1 of 1 selvedge jeans and seems to care a lot about his products! Great vid

[@wrong_trousers]

I was actually thinking of leaving a comment regarding this as I kinda forgot to give my opinion on Yuremane and didn't really give it the credit it deserves. I don't own any of his jeans so ultimately I can't give a definitive judgement on if his products are good and worth it but judging by the products pics, descriptions and videos of Nik talking about them, it seems as if he has created some very high quality jeans with the sort of denim nep and slub you'd only find from brands like oni or sugarcane. Nik clearly really has a passion for his craft and it's so sick to see one of the original wide selvedge commission designers being able to transform that into a proper brand. Nowadays, most people who own small brands label themselves as 'designers' when in reality they just copy what's trending with their only real input being providing funds (usually via shady pre-orders) and then approving samples or whatever. So its nice to see someone like Nik being at the helm of the brand coming out with the most desired jeans in the wide raw selvedge trend.

[@ThatWave]

Good on ya for correcting the quality claim

[@fabionunes7081]

was missing your videos

[@RichardHorpe]

1 washed and sanforized can still count as raw, like iron heart. n&f's made in japan line is unsanforized but one washed. a lot of raw denim brands are trying to minimize shrinkage now, which is good

[@venca955]

On the note of the super fade denim community not washing their jeans, there has been some progress in the last couple of years. A year or two ago I saw a post on reddit about a guy shitting his raw denim and asking what to do about it, and everyone basically called him a nob head and to just put them in the wash, so there's that

[@ArkonArchive]

13:07 This is now and forever my mental Profile Picture for Elon. Hahahaha, life is good.

[@dieselphiend]

Most clever thumbnail..

[@febreezelavander]

thank god Coolea put me onto this channel

[@tyler-xo3rb]

still waiting for a single instagram fashion influencer to have a single fade on their denim that they claim to love so much. remember guys, buy selvedge denim because it's better for the environment because you can wear it forever if you take care of it, just ignore the fact that i buy a new pair every three weeks to follow trends and i dont actually wear any of my clothes!

[@frenzy07_]

Drew Joined had a pair that already fades if that counts

[@benvincent6473]

Very insightful and comprehensive video. I've been into for about 7 years now and it is very interesting to see what initially felt like a niche become a wider trend.

[@4ftFrez]

Hearing the Frank Ocean sound again made me shed a tear

[@williammiller6458]

I feel so heard I just had a very similar conversation with a friend.

[@cbubbb]

This video was very good

[@georgeleorgebeorge2354]

The reason I buy selvedge denim is because companies like TCB make the cuts I like. For me that’s what comes first, not the material per se.

[@noza345]

Wonder what the fade on the extra wide would look like after skateboarding in them for a few months

[@astral_plane_crash]

Raws 4 Lyfe. These kids have no idea about SuFu. Wasting all of my money in high school buying weird Japanese jeans from strangers on the internet.

[@zieniet]

0:11 Funny to see the dudes from my local raw denim shop. If you're visiting the Netherlands I highly recommend you visit the Black & Blue store!

[@tangolettuce3538]

As someone who's faded a pair of wide leg jeans, they actually fade pretty uniquely and I'm really happy with how they look

[@abaofifsz]

In hs s08-11. No one had selvege. It was a premium. Everyone wanted stretch. Me finding even cheap selvedge was tough. Now i see even banana republic outlet have it. Wow smh lmao

[@voidoccupant]

Boomers used to buy quality denim for cents, now you gotta sell a kidney to get a nice pair of jeans..

[@matthewjchung]

Wrangler 13MWZ, Levi’s STF, and Uniqlo selvedge are all affordable, perfectly respectable options. They might lack the heritage mill pedigree, but they’re a good middle ground between fast fashion and artisan raw denim.

[@dieselphiend]

eBay..

[@aceymac]

also the US Navy who used it as camouflage because it made you completely invisible during ship to ship combat.

[@literallyanythingelseother]

Things I love about my selvedge jeans: They are given more attention than regular jeans, proper leather patches, love nep, I don't really treat differently than my other jeans. Things I dont like: People love to not wash them and love to have them be distinctly dirty as fuck??????????? Also WHY ARE THEY SO COMMONLY STRAIGHT CUT

[@blockwearingman]

high quality jeans lets go

[@johnnyc.3261]

As someone who’s been into heritage clothing for 20 plus years, this sucks.

[@pippo_the_special2754]

drew joiner's clips spotted🗣🗣🔥

[@prodbydellaflames]

nah ts too expensive for me a mere brazillian citizen

[@hugocanuto6981]

Da pra compra nem uma blusa

[@moreira7660]

levis ta cara, faz o L

[@skyzzz7638]

O moda filhodaputa brasileiro tem que comprar 2 peças por ano pra nao falir e mesmo assim quebra as perna (deveria procurar um hobbie mais barato)

[@hugocanuto6981]

@@skyzzz7638 os cara falam a mas roupa em bazar e brechó e barato, barato é o krl gourmetizaram até isso, já vi blusa de 250 reais usada

[@hugocanuto6981]

@@moreira7660 eu odeio o lula mas esse trem de faz o L e chato pra krl kkkk

[@giantfishermanrobot7630]

24:00 but Mr.Trousers I'm broke as fuckk :((( Got them custom made tho ^W^

[@modeloman4568]

the vegeta image always kills me

[@washcubby2555]

As a denim boy who had washed his IH 666 21oz twice since April.. it is very funny. Jokes accepted.

[@MingusDynastyy]

I'm more into mode fashion, but I got a pair of cheap 3sixteens because sometimes you have to be casual lol

[@andykamulya8634]

I saw this video yesterday and lo and behold, I am seeing all these new 1-man custom tailored jeans brands showing their Gen Z baggy jean with back cinch. I actually love that these kids are into tailoring and are using raw selvedge, but I don’t get why their pants gotta be so balloney! 🎈I love those back cinchs in those vintage jeans and type 1, but I can’t wair for these over exaggerated balloon baggy jeans trend to die lol

[@genericmiata770]

13:02 the evisu fishing vest is unironically fire i would rock it fishing down the shore

[@JohnSusan15]

Been into selvedge for the last couple years now but never could afford a good pair, finally pulled the trigger a couple months ago after finally finding the best pair for me, upsetting seeing these brands push these jeans for 20 dollars and to add a fake redline ID

[@KAMA_THE_ONE]

21:50 I almost forgot that I'm watching Wrong Trousers.

[@MA-ik2cz]

Not sure if I missed it, it was a long video: There was a moment in the 90s and into the early 2000s where skaters popularized these insanely baggy jeans with chain wallets and oversized fitted caps that they tucked their ears into. That became massively popular with the richer kids that didn’t skate and eventually Michael Jordan. I hated this trend but I hated everything in my youth, but I do believe this set the stage for bands blink-182 and the backlash skinny jeans movement that ruined clothes for two decades … and eventually rot my beloved American landscape and eventually give the world politicians like Hillary and Trump and eventually the invasion of the Ukraine so I think my instincts are solid

[@pacificlamprey]

Good video

[@quag3803]

great video

[@matthewjchung]

16:50 Sailor and baker’s trousers, as well as classic fatigues are increasingly being used as reference points as vintage styles, all of which are wide cut. I’m very much here for wide cut raw denim. As someone who was never in it for the fades, I have a pair that’s had about 200 wears that’s barely lost any color.

[@quinncrawleyy]

nik, the founder of yuremane, actually started making commissioned jeans and selvedge jeans before he started yuremane. so i would never label them as an instagram brand.

[@needlelnthehay]

17:54 yuremane mentioned

[@mr.commenter7953]

I feel attacked 😭

[@teeayel2755]

never been this early to a video before

[@billy0512]

Actually, the birth of denim can be traced back to the 15th century in Genova, Italy

[@dogha1r]

Me and My Oldhead making salvage fash

[@pastense]

I don’t like skinny/slim jeans and I dig the look of oversized, wide leg, parachute pants. But when it comes to selvedge, I wouldn’t waste my money on that type of silhouette. Maybe have a fat guy wear them for a year or two to break them in for you lol. I stick to straight cuts or boot cuts (never tapered, at least for me) when it comes to Japanese selvedge.

[@richardroe603]

ohhh nani nani

[@spuckuk7039]

Changing my username to Cowboy Glazer

[@MingusDynastyy]

Slimmer is in thanks to the Hedi craze

[@q3dm17]

CS shoutout

[@kevinbarrett9615]

Extremes will come and go , most of us live in the middle not wanting to look like a victim of fashion.

[@zbb2985]

leVi jeansss karate trousers

[@Maxdoooooh-c1f]

if following the raw denim trend stops you from consuming clothes every other month, youre doing something right still

[@Martinroadsguy]

Just my opinion, but I kind of feel like if "heritage fashion" is a term you've uttered out loud, you might want to come back down to earth for a bit.

[@tonydragon784]

Can someone buy that beast red fire off Gustin so the campaign finishes and I can get my big heavy red pants please and thank you *We're chillin someone bought one

[@blockwearingman]

21:36 lmao yes

[@first___last]

19:28 just wear them at the skatepark bro.

[@m.f.3347]

incorrect britches back at it again with another classic PS. 1 small cuff of the jeans is fine but what the hell is with people who fold their shits up to their calves? At that point just buy a shorter leg rise?

[@imstupid880]

Bro raw salvedge has been a trend for the past decade, why do you think prices have always been so high?

[@theduke7268]

@@imstupid880 The majority of selvedge denim will be higher price solely based off of the manufacturing process, regardless of current fashion trends.

[@doublestrokeroll]

The selvedge vs non selvedge section is misleading. The quality (in terms of durability) of the denim has just about nothing to do with the machine it's woven on. In fact, if anything, projectile looms weave MORE durable bolts because projectile looms weave tighter fabric and tighter weaves are more durable than looser weaves. The quality of the denim is based on the threads that are spun. So if you take the same threads and weave them on shuttle looms or projectile looms you'll get the same thing. Again, durability goes to projectile looms, but the reason we all like selvedge is because the old machines weave more loosely and therefore give the fabric character like slub and nap. Technically that's not "quality" though. That's character. This idea that because it's selvedge means it's better quality, needs to stop. Unless you think a 40 dollar pair of selvedge Uniqlo or Levi's is better quality than Momotaro, Iron Heart, or Studio D'artisan non selvedge. And the whole "the fabric is not closed on projectile looms, it could "UNRAVELL!!!"...is a bunch of nonsense too. When's the last time you ever saw and overlock stitch come apart? Yeah...me neither. It's almost like people who sew know what they're doing! The bottom line is selvedge appears to be better quality simply because most mass market jeans don't use ultra heavy raw denim that is popular in the "heritage fashion" world. And because there are a lot of myths floating around on youtube videos and comment boards.

[@spencer5949]

You dont have to wash 100% cotton jeans often, u not supposed to even. They dont smell at all if u air them out semi often. Polyester sucks up smells and latches on to them, cotton doesnt really. Obviously if you're a landscaper in Arizona and you wear the same pair of jeans every day theyre gonna smell, but if you work an office job or something similar theyre not gonna smell

[@chocobarre3178]

Cotton smells,just less so than polyester. It doesn't have natural antibacterial properties like linen,hemp or wool. And if you dont wash it at least once in a while,the chances of fibers damage and tears increases

[@Aminormaze]

Selvedge denim doesn’t look very cool

[@joshuakim4569]

Fw ur channel heavy

[@blockwearingman]

wrong trousers

[@glock-kay]

Ngl I find this shit cringe lmao, W video tho.