X-Class 0 to 50 Speed Run On Custom e-bike!

[@jasonsierchio1167]

Those mountains look so sick. I wanna move someplace with mountains one day

[@X-bikes]

We are completely surrounded by mountains here in Ogden. It is beautiful here.

[@jasonsierchio1167]

@@X-bikes Looks beautiful!!

[@jasonsierchio1167]

Got yourself a good looking bike and a good looking woman, you're winning at life sir.

[@X-bikes]

Me and my wife appreciate your comment, sir.

[@sl4930]

Nice bike setting sir ! What about the range test at eco-mode and full speed mode ? Have a nice easter week-end !

[@E-bikeguy]

The motor got too hot and the epoxy came un done so the magnet came loose, so the magnets is spinning inside the hub so you can glue the magnet back in place and you should be good to go

[@X-bikes]

Yeah that's what we think too but there are other issues with that motor so instead of going through all that I'm getting a custom motor built that won't overheat.

[@rolandroland1485]

You have a link to the helmet she is wearing ?! Looks great

[@mst3kpimp]

look on the bright side, you have a popcorn machine!

[@katiekumcgil]

usually youll fry your motor if the controller and motor demand more from your battery than it can supply

[@X-bikes]

Got a Molicel battery, very high output.

[@katiekumcgil]

i use those cells to ,but sometimes its the way its made not able to throughput the current,theres a few factors ,but battery usually the starting point,cheers usually they can br repaired though we do alot of them at work@@X-bikes

[@katiekumcgil]

Hiya ,i think you will actually benifit from getting the pc program cable ,as you have alot more settings available using that and you can really fine tune things,that arnt available in the MQCON app

[@X-bikes]

I will look into that, thanks.

[@realestatestudent213]

Good video

[@imho7250]

Pretty much every ebike controller has 3 speeds. Low mid high. The majority use a 3 position switch, typically rocker but can be sliding or rotary. If the controller uses this switch type, and no switch is connected, it defaults to speed 2. Some controllers use a jog button, momentary on buttons, to jog through the gears, 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 etc. for non programmable controllers it normally defaults in speed 1. Programmable controllers, knowing you may be upgrading from generic controller, will offer you both switch types. And normally allow you to choose the default for jog button. The 3 speed switch will go to whatever position you left it in. For bikes that don’t have the 3 speed switch or jog button, normally you select boost or hard start, but also can set low and mid speed to 100% if you don’t like the way BOOST or HARD START behaves. My latest project I added a generic controller that uses 3-speed switch but I don’t have it installed, but since its just 3 wires, 5v-ground-5v, if you wants speed 1, you jump one of the 5v signals into ground. If you want speed 2, leave it alone because that’s default, and for speed 3 you jumpers the other 5v signal to ground. So for now i just move the jumper to suit how I will ride it, but the 3-position switch on the handlebar is ideal. If you want added utility of your bike you can add the 3 position switch and give 3 distinct speeds. More advanced controllers let you set both speed and torque, which is really nice, especially when you get up into the powerful motors.

[@X-bikes]

Well I downloaded the PDF on the controller and the only useful info it gave me on these options was that it defaults to high on 3 speed push button so I went with that and seems to be doing fine. I will try hard start and boost when I get my new motor. Thanks for the info.

[@imho7250]

@@X-bikes , thats the problem with all these controllers, very poor instruction manuals. The generic controllers you are lucky to find a wiring diagram. Lol The Sabvoton has a lot of settings that let you tune the bike to your preference. The THROTTLE settings are very important to getting the best experiences. There are two basic types of throttles 0-5v and Hall type which are about 0.8v-3.8v. The first step is to use a multimeter or the app and see what your throttles signal voltage is at 0% throttle, 100% throttle and 50% throttle. Every Chinese controller has a throttle safety feature that will not allow the motor to run if the throttle signal is too high when you turn the key on. So all controllers default with an excessively high throttle minimum voltage. But this creates a lot of deadband (you twist the throttle 20% but motor does respond. So for that setting you want to set it 0.1v higher than your 0% throttle voltage. Throttle max voltage should match your throttle signal at 100% throttle. By default it’s set very high. But if your throttle only puts out 3.8v and this setting is 4.4v, you will never be able to request max RPM, because that only comes when the throttle signal reaches that Throttle Max Voltage value. Some controllers also have high throttle signal protection in case the 5v power gets shorted with the signal wire. So if you set high voltage too low and give full throttle, and it cuts power to the motor, set the value 0.1v higher than max throttle signal. Then accelerate/decelerate is the ramp up/down speed in milliseconds. If you feel it’s too sluggish, use a lower number so it ramps faster. Then the final settings sets the throttle curve. If you enter 50% throttle signal voltage and use 50% of max amps, after setting low and high in previous steps, this makes your throttle behavior LINEAR. This is typically the best. But if you have very high power controller, especially not using 3-speed switch, you may find the low speed control is erratic. Throttle too sensitive at low speeds. In this situation you can set 50% throttle voltage the same but now instead of 50% of peak amps, try 25-45% of your peak amps. This will make your first 50% throttle give less amps per degree of twist (more fine control), and the top 50% throttle will bring it all in at a faster rate, but normally you are driving faster by then so its not so jumpy. I would suggest trying 45% amps, see how you like low and high speed behavior, and then either go back to LINEAR or try 40% for more curve. If you have a weak controller and heavy bike, you can make the throttle curve the other way, which is 50% throttle gives 75% amps, but this is only to deceive yourself into believing your motor is stronger. Because now half throttle will request 75% speed. With a strong motor this curve would make the speed controller difficult at low speeds and less responsive at higher speeds. So those are some things to play around with. Just a fraction of the settings.

[@imho7250]

@@X-bikes, @6:25 I can see your throttle 0% signal is 1.08v, which is very high, but thats why the default is set so high on these controllers. You can use this same page to get the high throttle signal by holding the brake (to prevent motor from running) and twist full throttle. I didn’t see your throttle settings in the app so I don’t know if they are correct or not. But the tighter you get them without triggering a safety feature, the less deadband your throttle will have. This step is similar to twisting the throttle on a gas bike and make sure the carburetor butterfly valve goes from idle to wide open, without excessive slop during roll on. If you are burning up motors i can tell you some basics on how controllers must be set to prevent that. OEM will always set them so they won’t easily burn, but DIY guys are allowed to change all the settings into regions the motor cant handle.

[@X-bikes]

You spent a lot of time on this post so I'm going to look into what you said. Right now I'm still riding my bike but at a limited capacity. I have down tuned it to 100amps for now because I believe I have melted the epoxy and loosened a magnet or two. when I gun the throttle it makes a whizzing noise, but the bike is still rideable if I am easy on the throttle. I'm pulling out the stator in a day or two to see the damage and fix it if I can. but this will just be a backup motor because I'm having a new one customized by Powerful Lithium. I plan on making a video of the repair. Keep in touch when I get the new motor maybe you can give me some pointers on the throttle settings. Thank you for your input. @@imho7250

[@imho7250]

@@X-bikes, since you don’t have a motor temperature sensor which automatically throttles back the controller when it gets too hot, you sort of have to mentally track thermal management, or make settings that will not allow overheating. With OEM bikes, the way they don’t go bankrupt overnight is by using a controller that only has a peak current of 150%-200% of the motor continuous current, AND the speed setting will allow the controller to offload to below maximum continuous on level ground. It can normally tolerate a long uphill climb without exceeding maximum motor temperatures. But when DIY builds are done, the controller can do 200%-400% of the motor maximum continuous, which is ok, except for the fact they set the speed too high, and the controller never offloads and gives the motor a cooldown period. If you have a 6kw motor, and a 11kw controller, you can give the motor all 11kw for 30 seconds to accelerate, to pass someone, climb a short ramp, but then it must come down below 6kw long enough to dissipate the heat. If you look at the Sondors Metacycle, it uses a Votol controller which has a 2 minute boost and then forces a cooldown. Its maximum speed is set to under the maximum continuous power of the motor but it does allow short bursts for passing. If you add the 3-speed switch, it can really help you manage the heat. With single speed its really limiting because if you set that one speed to maximum possible, its too easy to keep current too high too long. With the 3-speed switch you can reserve speed 3 for passing, drag race, 30 seconds of max performance. Speed 1 can very set such that you can’t burn the motor unless you tried. Speed 2 would be set like an OEM would set it such that you can dip into the power a bit more but it will back it off for you. Ultimately once you choose the cruise speed you want, you can buy the motor that can run that continuously, and the controller, and then you need a bigger battery, and soon you are in the ebike financial death spiral. Lol. Thats where I am now. I bought a $300 ebike, spent $120 to add cells to the battery. Then spent $200 for a gearless motor. And next I will spent $200 for a 170a controller for my 60a motor (but ill set it so it doesn’t melt, lol), and the final thing is I need a better battery, which Im testing cells for now. (Mainly to find which suppliers sell real cells). But basically probably $300 for a 100a continuous battery with 200a peak. My bike is tiny. If I had yours it would cost a ton because the QS 8kw motor, Fardriver 72850, and a 50ah 200a continuous rated battery would just about bankrupt me. Lol

[@brianpino7274]

Not too sure how it was fried brother. Been running a 200 amp controller on mine for a long while now. That 205 can handle just as much as the 275

[@X-bikes]

We are all wondering the same thing. there are people running around 250amps with the same motor. I blew my first set of hull sensors when I ran it around 190. Then this happened at 175, could just be a bad motor. I am having a custom one made so I don't have to worry about it. should get it in about 3 weeks. Then we will go again.

[@EBikeBuilder_]

I’ve heard people say they bought a 205 they thought was 4kw or 5kw then they burn it up cuz it turns out to actually be a 2kw or something

[@X-bikes]

I got this strait from NB power it has the 5000W stamp and part # right on the stator. What happened is I just did to many full throttle runs back to back and super heated the motor and melted the epoxy and loosened some magnets. I'm getting a custom 5000W motor built for me by Powerful Lithium. It will be bullet proof, no more over heating even above 200 Amps @@EBikeBuilder_

[@Uwe342]

what turn is your Motor ? And you use field weakening?

[@katiekumcgil]

field weekening require a battery with huge discharge ability anything under a 2 to 3 hundred app discharge ,field weakening wont be of any use

[@katiekumcgil]

the guys i know that use it ,have 4-5 hundred amp and up some 8-9 hundred

[@ghoul114]

NB Power Amazon motor, that's you're first mistake

[@X-bikes]

I didn't buy from Amazon this came from the factory.

[@nystreetpunisher9175]

NB Power is S Tier sir, know your role!