How To Sound Deaden A Car Door - Part 2: Outer Door Skin

Hey everyone! This is the second of three videos that make up our How To Sound Deaden A Car Door video series! Please note, if the video is not in timelapse, I am sharing relevant info that relates directly to the installation.
For this install, we are using our ResoNix Stage-3 Door Sound Deadening Kit, which can be found in the link below. This is the most common method of treatment that we see from our customers and deal with ourselves due to its level of performance without going bonkers.
resonixsoundso...
It features
. ResoNix CLD Super Max Mega Pro CLD Squares to reduce resonance
. ResoNix Fiber Mat 45 (although we used Fiber Mat 25 due to space constraints in this vehicle) for sound absorption and decoupling of the door panel
. ResoNix Guardian for midbass rear-wave sound absorption
. ResoNix Butyl Rope as an all-purpose spot treatment product
. ResoNix CCF Decoupler 3S for tight-tolerance areas that need decoupling
. ResoNix CCF Strips to couple the midbass drivers to the door panel grille opening for getting the best midbass performance.
We also ended up using ResoNix CCF Decoupler 3F, as well as discuss the use of ResoNix Barrier in certain applications.
If you have any questions, feel free to call or email at any time. Thanks!
845-274-4357
[e-mail]
-Nick

[@unorodriguez3368]

This is probably the best series on sound deadening a car but it has to be half as long. It will help you a lot with the youtube algo as more viewers will watch it the end which will help boost you and find more customers.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@unorodriguez3368 I know. I'm buying a new car so I can do exactly that.

[@Bistinglolwut]

​@ResoNixSoundSolutions perfect, I just bought some cld to do on my car. Still constantly researching on how to do this

[@anthonylyonsofaldesigns]

I feel you bro I did a Mini Cooper and man its a pain in the ass to get that inner door skin apart. great video bro !

[@Someyawhoo]

How did it work out on the Cooper?

[@thefunnysound]

Nice demonstration Nick. The low end wax is for anti rost material. I leave it there usually also. I am still looking fwd to purchase material from you, but i own a shop in middle of Europe ;) Cheers Funnysound

[@joshmcpherson2060]

Man I’m working on a Tahoe right now thank you for all the help

[@joeyofblades]

That Resonix Guardian looks pretty thick, ever hear about or have any problems yourself with clearance for the window going up and down? Or the position/movement of the regulator, motor, and other parts inside the door? I know it depends on the car but curious if any car/setup has ever had that problem that you know of. Also that is is unbelievably flat and accessible door to work with, I wish mine looked like that.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

Never had a single issue with it. Many have had results that were close, but it's always fit without issue in the end.

[@MeesterSoup]

Supermax mega pro is such a Chad name I love it 😂

[@johnnypiper1717]

I always wanted to sound deading my vehicle especially to help with my sound system and keep my truck from rattling its ass off lol. But watched so many different videos of using torches and flaming the shi outta the butly to install it. Then I heard people mentioning resonix and seen how easier it looked to install along with being some of the top sound deadner I think I've found which deander to go with. Along with the fiber mat 25 /45 on top to icing the cake. Rather spend the money and go with a good quality deadner that works and has test to prove it and I don't have to use a torch lol gonna get my truck sounding like a Bentley on the inside lol

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

Glad to hear you found us! And no, no torches required lol

[@eduardoflores98]

Gooood damnnn… i wanted to do it but is alott of work, i’m pretty sure is worth it but damn😂😂

[@zelowatch30]

This looks like a good product that can withstand heat. Not all hold up in high temperatures. I'd use it on the roof as well as door panels.

[@noncog1]

Can't wait for the inner door skin video. Might be putting some pretty beefy 8's in a g37 coupe door soon and am kinda worried about getting a solid mount in a door install.

[@johnnypiper1717]

Nice, which beefy 8s you looking at? I think ima eventually run 4 8s ported under my seat of my truck.

[@noncog1]

@@johnnypiper1717 maybe hat l8 se dc's if I can get a single one still these days, otherwise probably Steven's mb8's

[@mattroadfeldt9012]

What scissors are you using? That aluminum dulls a utility knife blade quickly.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

It's an old set of Wiss upholstery shears. 10" I think.

[@awsblacknight6956]

FYI, regarding the oil in the bottom of the door cavity, I have a feeling that might be rust proofing solution to deal with moisture that might collect at the bottom. Just got my car done with an undercoating + rustproofing and the oil residue they apply looks really similar to what you see inside the door.

[@joeg7755]

Very nice video. I always though melamine foam was for higher frequency absorption, like 1Khz or higher. Will it will work with mid bass speaker?

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@joeg7755 yes, check out the specs on the page for Guardian. resonixsoundsolutions.com/product/resonix-guardian-automotive-sound-absorbing-pad/

[@stephenlee2894]

The website emphasizes the importance of "100%" coverage for the Guardian product and the example of the window closing to reduce sound was excellent, but there are gaps in this install... how close to 100% do you need to get to make Guardian worth it? I'd be doing '21 Toyota Tacoma, all 4 doors. Thank you, these videos and the website are awesome!

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

In this case we are more so using it to absorb the energy of the back wave of the speaker. Perfect coverage is not necessary in this case. If we were using it with the intent to block outside noise, that is a different story.

[@stephenlee2894]

@@ResoNixSoundSolutionsAwesome, thanks for clarifying the difference!

[@next4887]

Do I have this right? The aluminum layer with the butyl is to stiffen the outer door panel from creating its own “bass”. Like a foam core between two pieces of Luan plywood. The butyl between interferes with the flexing of the outer skin stopping the car from emitting road noise. While the layered foam stops the speaker noise from vibrating the door skin from the inside stopping speaker “feedback” or loud stereo rattling that is so often heard. The other flexible brands do not offer the stiffening of the door skin and use butyl as the only sound absorbing material. Would a second or third layer of the aluminum butyl not further reduce road noise and more able to reflect outside sound.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@next4887 resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-materials-reference-information/

[@Steve-cl7oy]

What about the whole outer door panel covered in the wax type substance? That substance is rustproofing at the bottom of the door if it’s a yellow wax like coating. Look up Cosmoline, that’s what it is. Did you ever count the amount of times you said butyl in the video?

[@kambostewart8056]

Nick I know the more the merrier in sound absortion but I want a quality build but not spending so much. Is there an optimal or minium absortion you would suggest? I would CDL all than I can but with sound absortion Im not sure. Can you elaborate on thar?

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@kambostewart8056 I would suggest covering the entire outer door skin in Guardian or Lockout (budget will determine which one), and covering the back of the entire door panel with Fiber Mat (whatever thickness you can comfortably fit).

[@JackKavalieros]

Hello Nick, If my car has some factory deadening material that doesn't easy come off on the outer skin, would you reccomend covering it completely with the new set of res. tile or just add res. tiles next to it with some overlap. It looks like a thin butyl that was applied in the factory ~34years ago (1990 - 911) and is now hard and brittle at the edges of the application.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

Yes, go over if genuinely not possible to remove.

[@MichaelT-ft3cz]

Is 100% (or close to) coverage of CLD really required? I thought shooting for 30% panel coverage eliminated most resonance.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

This generalization is incorrect. It doesnt come down to percentage, but how much untreated area is left over. We detail this in our Sound Deadening Materials Reference Information & Guide page. resonixsoundsolutions.com/resources/sound-deadening-materials-reference-information-guide/

[@Mrpngu]

Why do you those strips on the crashbar separate? Why not make it part of the big squares? If you have ofcourse paid the butyl rope as first step.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@Mrpngu I do both

[@MM-hh9cu]

Nick, can an aluminium tape, similar to what is used in HVAC work, be used on the seams of the CLD pieces or is that something that is negligible?

[@JasonWW2000]

I would confidently say the effect would be negligible.

[@iKone911]

Wouldn't it flop around if you took that stiff aluminum sheet off? Also, I don't understand why stiffness equates to quality sound dampening. A sheet of plywood is stiffer, but won't do much as far as sound dampening. I'd rather see a comparison of both products without their backing as well as front facing (aluminum) sheet compared. I'm fairly certain both would flop around, but not sure it matters anyway.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

Comparing the resistance to flex before/after removing the backing paper can give an idea of how well the butyl/aluminum combo is able to constrain the material it is adhered to. Obviously not scientific by any means. But again, quick and dirty way to tell if a product is capable, or terrible.

[@JasonWW2000]

I'm going to have to disagree with you, a sheet of plywood would be amazing for sound damping. Assuming it's properly adhered. It's obviously not going to be a very practical material to use, though. Still, people do use it in roofs and floors of vehicles.

[@unorodriguez3368]

Why not make the pieces larger so a bigger continous piece can be installed?

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@unorodriguez3368 the shipping and storage side, going larger makes things difficult. Plus, it's rare to need more than 12x12

[@davidwilson705]

New product need alert Nick. “Wax” gloves 😉

[@tomthompson7400]

do you have a uk distributor ?

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@tomthompson7400 nope, just order right from the site

[@tomthompson7400]

@@ResoNixSoundSolutions lol ,,, shipping and import duty would probably add up to more than the order . Shame .

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@tomthompson7400 it would be even more expensive for end users to have a distributor.

[@proround9726]

Such a waste when people coat every single square inch. They're not for sound absorption, they're to prevent reverberations in flat panels of metal. A few small squares of material placed around the center of any flat sheet metal bodywork is all that is needed. With sound deadening like this you only need 25% coverage to be effective. Anything more than that gives you diminishing returns. You can do the whole panel but it's just throwing money away vs doing 25-50%.

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@proround9726 you are unfortunately incorrect and are following outdated misinformation provided by someone who's never done a sound system upgrade in their life. The "25%" rule isn't how these products work, and it was started by someone who didn't fully understand them at the time. The way it should be looked at is left over, non-treated resonating area and how resonant it is on its own. These untreated areas now act as their own resonant panel. So what percentage you need to hit this theoretical diminishing returns really comes down to the size, shape, and other properties of said panel. There is no hard fast rule like many seem to think. The other thing is, why bother with doing minimal when the goal is usually a high end sound system that has the least amount of distortion possible? The difference in price of CLD in 25% or the 90% or so coverage that I did here on the other skin is less than $20 difference. When you consider the time, effort, and all around labor it takes to properly do an install, let alone the costs of all the other equipment, are we really arguing to skimp on one of the most important and cost effective parts of the entire installation? That would be very silly. I'd much rather do it once and get it right (or what some would deem overkill) instead of second guessing, or not giving my expensive speakers and time consuming install the best environment possible.

[@proround9726]

@@ResoNixSoundSolutions thank you for the answer. But doesn't it comes to weight also? if I use 4mm butyl on 50% doors or 2mm on 100% doors, the end result should be the same (the more weight product has, the more it absorbs)? Also maybe I missed, but how many mm do you recommend for doors for 100% coverage?

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

@@proround9726 weight isn't how these products work. Check this page, it explains everything you need to know about how these products work, how to use them, etc. resonixsoundsolutions.com/resources/sound-deadening-materials-reference-information-guide/

[@Real-Americans-For-Trump-2024]

Is it a good idea to use these CDL Squares for sealed subwoofer enclosures? Like for the JL Audio TW3. Thanks

[@ResoNixSoundSolutions]

While a proper enclosure should already be non resonant, I use them in enclosures anyway. It doesn't hurt. Fiber Mat 45 in the other hand is excellent in enclosures.