Yamaha V Star 650 XVS650 Valve adjustment

[@nassiratti8542]

Literally the best quality video I've ever watched for a valve adjustment, great work.

[@tonycstech]

thanks

[@chaser631]

Man, you're crazy in very good mean :)))))))) I sold my dragstar in few years ago and still have a friends with this bike (who want to valve adjust time-to-time). Thank you bro!!!

[@wallyc1349]

Thank you for making this video! I'll be doing my own adjustments in a few days. I have a V Star service manual and it's a Iittle vague, until I watched your video.

[@jacobbutler7942]

This easily taught me what too do.

[@davetlam]

Thanks Bro! You saved me a ton of money and time! Nice Video

[@adacik.]

Good job fellow! This was one of the maintenance occupying my mind for a while and which I certainly wouldn't want to pay for it. So, thank you very much. Not worth mentioning though, it would be better if you have talk about the parts you need to dismantle at the outset and the list of some required spare parts like gaskets.

[@crazee6821]

Tony ... you are very talented and your videos are great !! Please keep making vids !! The bike vids are awesome and addicting to watch !!

[@roymcdavid4549]

Very nice video. Would like to add ,that you should also replace all 6 orings when doing your valves. They are cheap and it will keep you from taking apart again to fix one of 6 oil leaks. Again very nicely done.

[@wallyc1349]

Hi Roy; I have my 650 torn down now in my garage. What 6 o-rings are you referring to? I know of 2- intake and 2 exhaust. What else am I missing. Thanks

[@roymcdavid4549]

Wally Czarnik. cam covers.

[@roymcdavid4549]

got to remove to line up timing marks.

[@roymcdavid4549]

don't over tighten the covers when you put them back on...

[@N0t4v41l4ble]

Very good video. The process is the same for XVS 1100. Don't forget to use a torque wrench to tighten the locknut to 27 Nm (in 1100 at least, probably the same for 650).

[@dalemullen96]

The 1100 is much easier to work with, to get at the valve adjustments.

[@dalemullen96]

Tony: Thank you for your presentation. However, a few suggestions based on several points I noticed (FWIW): Give the year of the bike, so riders can quickly determine if your information applies to their bike. Start with the bike fully assembled and then state which pieces must be removed and why. Some items are very difficult to remove without removing other pieces first. This should be explained. There is too much ramble in place of solid information. This leaves the viewer with a "come on, come on" feeling wanting to get to the necessary meat. Better lighting is needed. I know that such videos are difficult to do and your effort is appreciated.

[@tonycstech]

Agree to a degree. I got better lighting but my camera and lens are cheap so it is what it is.

[@petepete5020]

Thanks. This is what the internet is for.

[@jacobbutler7942]

I also seen a trick where u bottom out the adjuster screw, back it off 1/4 a turn. tighten, then check it. should be close.

[@rhynius1298]

Thanks for the video, it helped to understand the process. Would you please make clear why it is necessary to crank the engine several times during the adjustment? It seems a bit strange to me that the gauge didn't fit in the gap at all the first time and, after turning the crankshaft one more time, it went easily.

[@roymcdavid4549]

Maybe wasn't at top dead center first time ,or was on the wrong timing mark for the cylinder you was working on.

[@travisgilliam5]

Much easier if you just slide the desired size feeler guage between the valve and adjuster and tighten everything down while the guage is in place.

[@travisgilliam5]

Tony Nameless still a great video, just thought id suggest the technique i use.

[@davestade]

Same issue, mine was the Gasket. Cheap and easy to replace.

[@michaelh.433]

Good stuff! do you have to pull the top covers off? Can the valves be adjusted through the side covers? tanxs for your input

[@juergenfoterek6743]

Very good Video. Plase make more of them ! Best Regards from Germany. If God is with you. Who can then be against you? Many thanks ...

[@chaser631]

curve-handed guys only:))))))

[@stanjones7562]

I would like to see a video of how to get the plastic covers off so you can get to the valve cover bolts

[@roymcdavid4549]

remove tank and take the 2 bolts holding them on out.

[@damaruman]

Excellent video but doing this has stopped my bike running. Firstly I had oil leaking from two tappet covers and lots of white smoke shooting out these exhaust manifolds. After changing the O-rings and thread-locking the covers closed it seems to have stopped the leaking but I'm getting a lot of backfiring and barely any power on acceleration. Could there be any quick fixes?

[@damaruman]

@@tonycstech hi Tony- it's just come to my attention that the front cylinder has a timing problem. It's about 2 links off. Could this be the only source of problems?

[@damaruman]

@@tonycstech I went back today and found that the front cylinder camshaft was actually bang on and the valve clearances were to spec as well. I feel the only other thing I can do is strip the carbs and balance them

[@dawgnuts6661]

How many times does it take to get the right clearance, stick gauge in run down adjuster then tighten..omg

[@wisdom1956]

Great job. Where did you get your gauge. I can't find one like this

[@xkevlar7x]

At exactly 22:05 in the video, on the back side of the rear cylinder head cover, there's a port that comes out, and angles down 90 degrees and is connected to something. Does anyone know what that is called and what is connected to it? The bike I bought has that port open and it's loud af. Just trying to get it back to factory noise level.

[@fordresurrectionest9556]

It has a metal line attached to it, then wraps around the back cylinder, then between both cylinders. Then, travle forward, and it attaches to a small block that connects to the black Charcoal canister.

[@danmanthe9335]

Why didn't you set them toward the upper end of the limits so you hopefully don't have to adjust them next time you're checking the valves?

[@danmanthe9335]

@@tonycstech was just curious if there was a particular reason, that's all

[@eivoilaittaaverotukseen6426]

I think I have a leaking cylinder head cover o-ring (rear cylinder). How do I get best access to that (need to remove tank?) and how should I go about fixing that leaking o ring. Thanks.

[@eivoilaittaaverotukseen6426]

Thanks man. I'm talking about the part you've got in your hand at timestamp 22:09. There's clearly an O ring there. I think it's called either the valve cover or the tappet cover. I'm pretty sure that's what's leaking in my bike. Looking forward to your vid! Thanks!

[@eivoilaittaaverotukseen6426]

Thanks! Will do.

[@jereraina4833]

Do you need to remove the oil from the engine to do this?

[@JeffMwangi]

I love the intro bro.

[@cjbongalon2064]

Hi, just want to ask a question about my v star 650. Cause i have a problem about how it sound. Mu exhaust sounds like a can. I hate it how can i fix this. I mean its not a whole tone its kinda thin sound like a can. Please help me thanks

[@tonycstech]

Change the exhaust ?

[@cjbongalon2064]

@@tonycstech hi thank you for replying :) i fixed it already the problem was my piston rings were broken so i replaced it and it sounded great❤❤

[@tonycstech]

@@cjbongalon2064 Great job man. I dont get notifications of any comments for what ever reason so i decided to manually review them today and came across yours.

[@cjbongalon2064]

@@tonycstech hehehe well thanks again bro, ride safe❤👌

[@michaelbrogan6412]

great video.

[@earnestbrown2643]

Right under the valve, what is that port in the back of the engine?

[@earnestbrown2643]

No they are connected to the carbs, but I will find out, thanks

[@earnestbrown2643]

That covered it, and I actually found it in my repair manual, and the reason I asked my looks like they have cracks in them, anyway I finally started tearing it down and I realized my feeler gauge is the wrong one and that I didn't realize the carbs need to come out, so I have to make sure I can do that without screwing that up, but I need to do it so Thanks Man!

[@docyoung81]

I have a 2001 650 will this work

[@filmfreaken]

I want to do my valves for the first time, can i use this set? 0,05 mm/0,002" 0,1 mm/0,004" 0,15 mm/0,006" 0,2 mm/0,008" 0,25 mm/0,01" 0,3 mm/0,012" 0,4 mm/0,016" 0,5 mm/0,02" 0,6 mm/0,024" 0,7 mm/0,028" 0,8 mm/0,032" 0,9 mm/0,035" 1,0 mm/0,04"

[@filmfreaken]

Ah thank you man, i've been checking out serveral stores, they all carry the same range, with huge jumps between sizes! i'd like a more full set, like yours it would help me screwup less :P just in case!

[@filmfreaken]

Found one that says: 0.05-2.00 to 0.1 mm increase. 0.05 mm. above with 0.1 mm increase. 21 pieces.

[@dbuchler83]

How many miles were on the bike when you did this ?

[@dbuchler83]

Tony Nameless I got my bike used so I don't have an owners manual

[@МотоОбзоры-ъ6в]

очень хорошее видео! спасибо!

[@stacyjones1680]

it's supposed to be .004 on the intake and .006 on the exhaust. just did mine and the intake was .006 after 65,000 miles. This video is going to make your motor sound like a sewing machine. way to loose. very critical on motorcycle engines

[@artur_ku]

it can be usefull

[@SuperAsianDude1]

how much would this cost in a shop?

[@tylerlajoie4562]

My shop quoted $850

[@jasongarner1435]

Just so you know it need to be 0.04 not 7 it's to much

[@tonycstech]

Metric or standard ? I referred to owners manual with metric values.