Yanmar 2GM Service, Engine Beds and Finishing the Engine Bay Refit (Project Lottie Ep14)

In this episode the Contessa 32 refit continues in the engine bay, I finish the sound insulation, use an engine jig to correct the engine beds for the Yanmar engine that will be refitted, the Yanmar 2GM gets a full service and I wait for new flexible engine feet that turn out to be the wrong ones!
The correct engine mounts should arrive early next week so you will have to stay tuned for the final wok i the engine bay, getting the engine in the hole, aligned, plumbed-in and ready to go.
I’m thirsty after all that talking, buy me a beer?…. www.paypal.me/RefitAndSail
If you have enjoyed this video and/or learned something you can now buy me a beer using the link above to make a donation to the channel. If I end up with more beer tokens than I need then I will put your donations towards a better camera, better mic’s or lighting so that all benefits you the viewer. I don’t do Patreon, I don’t sell T shirts but you can help support this growing channel. Thank you
My thanks to the owner for giving me permission to create this content based on the refit of his boat.
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About Me
I run a small business called The Solent Boat Butler and spend my days repairing, maintaining and refitting sailing boats (often Contessa 32’s due to my long experience with them). I'm mostly in the central Solent area of the UK. Being a cruising and racing sailor with many thousands of inshore and offshore sea miles logged I like to think that I bring a great deal of real-world experience to my work and help many new (and not so new) boat owners to improve and maintain their boats. When I'm not fixing boats I also provide some own-boat sail training, help owners with deliveries, provide pre-purchase inspections and deliver consultancy services to those that are refitting their own boats for cruising or racing.
Facebook - thesolentboatbutler
Instagram - george_the_boat_butler
Website - www.solentboatbutler.co.uk
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Disclaimer
I hope that viewers both enjoy and learn something from my videos but please remember to take the appropriate precautions for any DIY refit works you undertake with appropriate PPE and the correct tools for the job. If you are in any way unsure as to how to go about a project or are unsure if something on your boat is safe please consult a professional.
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Music credit - Bensound.com and KZbin audio library (Dyala and Quincas Moreira) royalty free music.

[@Fanan67]

You are probably the best boat refit channel on KZbin.

[@RefitandSail]

That’s very kind, think I’m still learning and slowly getting better at making vids but I appreciate the comment

[@Fanan67]

@@RefitandSail It's all about your skills and work. The videos are ok.

[@petercrane2065]

Recently discovered your channel, am now in the middle of binge watching every video you have produced so far from the beginning, Keep up the great work.

[@RefitandSail]

Welcome aboard!

[@guy.h]

Thanks again for taking the time t film, edit & share these with us

[@jackwright9016]

Enjoy your videos. Thanks.

[@odonkers]

Very good explanation on how to do maintenance of all parts involved ! Tx !

[@chontaelu]

Another masterclass, thanks again for sharing. Had never heard of engine anodes before.

[@ulrich2441]

Brilliant episode again and nice watching you performing your great work! Thank you for sharing George.

[@TheCorsair]

A true Master Class! Thanks George!

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks

[@jdbpescador]

Organized and clean as always!!!!! 👏👏👏

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks

[@johnthomson1579]

Very interesting,

[@garrykennedy5653]

Love your work and the way you tell the story

[@RefitandSail]

Hey, that’s nice to hear. Thanks

[@louisverelst8339]

Excellent video's and I'm learning a lot!! The info on the anodes is great. Thank you

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks

[@edwinharvie6174]

Great engine service overview. One thing, the Rydlyme will eat up the zincs, so better to do that before replacement (run it through with just the plugs in). Merry Christmas!

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks, Yep, you are right, it will eat the Zink if left in there a long time but for the few hours in was in the engine the zink will hardly be touched.

[@normanboyes4983]

Good work all round. I think a lot of owners do not realise that ‘obscure’ engine anode is actually there - particular with the usual access problems and poor lighting. I like the modern automotive practice of using the colour yellow on user serviceable parts/fittings. On the cutlass bearing and the interference fit, perhaps a night in the freezer may have given you the ‘relief’ you needed. Keep up the good work.😀👍⛵️

[@Southernman980]

I’ll shout you a beer! Another great informative video.

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks very much!

[@enigmacode_1]

Subscribed! 🔔 Liked, shared and fav-added.

[@earthstick]

The anode on my engine was completely gone when I bought the boat. Not sure how long it had been run without one. Then it was impossible to find one that was the right size, so I ended up buying the closest match, and taking it to a machine shop to be lathed to the right dimensions for it to fit in. Got two done while I was at it.

[@brianferguson6278]

Enjoyed watching the video! The van was lucky, 6" more to the left(port) and it would have been very expensive it the Pillar was hit, just a window? On the Engine I do wonder about transmission fill levels with the back slope, would there be lubrication at the upper bearings? Next time you change an oil filter, first take a clean white cloth and sweep the threaded connection on the new filter BEFORE you install the filter, with the cheaper China filters being made, the machining process leaves metal shavings on the newer oil filters. They are supplied from China (rebranded) at a cheaper cost as corners are being cut in fabrication process Seems so sad to be installing new filters to protect an engine, yet the filters damage the engines. If you sweep the threads on the filter at least you remove the shavings before they get into the engine. Thank you for the education on older sailboats. I have enjoyed small DS 16, and 5.85 Sandpipers, thinking about an older 1970 26' range boat and need to educate myself before I jump into extremely expensive repairs I am not ready for. Yet I love Folk boats and that puts me back into the 1970 age group.

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks for the comment and good tip on the threads.

[@johncooper5293]

Excellent video. I have a 2GM20 and didn't know it had engine anodes. Just ordered some as well as descaler fluid.

[@RefitandSail]

It is only the raw water (no heat exchanger) version that uses anodes. The HE version does not use them. If you have them they must be changed to protect the engine internals.

[@johncooper5293]

It is the raw water. Should I check the thermostat too? Engine is 22 years old with low usage.

[@RefitandSail]

@@johncooper5293 no harm in checking but at the same time if it’s coming up to temp and then not overheating it’s prob fine.

[@simontaylor3492]

Personally, fill the new old filter 2 thirds with new oil in the hope that this reduces oil starvation at start up.

[@RefitandSail]

Good point but oil starvation very unlikely on an engine that was run just prior to the oil change as there will still be plenty of residual oil on all the internal bearing surfaces. Also had to screw the filter on without making a mess if it’s part full of oil.

[@simontaylor3492]

@@RefitandSail yes, thats why I only fill mine to 2 thirds, and like yours mine is on the horizontal azis too. When I remove the old filter, i put a small plastic bag around it to catch the over flow.

[@NixToDo]

You may check the valve clearence of the in- and outlet valves if this type of motor has no self adjusting ones befor installing the engine. It will be much easier.

[@RefitandSail]

Yes, I have had to do that on other identical engines but I was so happy with how it ran it seems unnecessary at this time. Quote often on these little 2GM’s they can suffer from pitting on the exhaust valves (particularly if there is no high-rise exhaust elbow) so I have had to do a few cylinder head overhauls in the past, just regrinding the valve seats brings the compression back up to where it should be and makes the engine start and run like new again.

[@waterboy8999]

Lovely job, no grass cuttings?

[@bendaves77]

You should always clean out the fuel bulb like you did.. after the engine lost fuel pressure sentiments could have fallen off the filter and its nice to see what's coming from the tank.. In the larger screw on filters I always dump the fuel out of them just to see if there's anything in it that shouldn't be. It will tell you if you've bought bad fuel cause of water or a fuel hose going bad etc. You're channel is very educational and I'm sure you are going to be a busy man working on people's boats after seeing the level of care and craftsmanship that you have.. be kinda cool if you had the time to show us some boats that are different or for sale in the boat yard

[@RefitandSail]

Yes I completely agree about checking the contents of the filter abs bowl when servicing. On Lottie when I removed the engine I did exactly that with the primary filter and there was dirt visible in the diesel. Don’t recall if I showed that in the engine removal video or not. Thanks for watching and the comment (sounds like you know what you are doing :-) )

[@bendaves77]

@@RefitandSail I know quite a bit about these old school diesels that don't have all the electronics that modern ones do.. I grew up around semi trucks and owned and drove my own for several years until 3 years ago at 42 when my back was destroyed needing surgery and the surgeon recommended that I not return to driving .. I've always been the type of person who if I own it I'm going to know how fix it myself.. I just recently found a interest in sailing and sailboats. Plan on taking some sailing lessons once winter is over here in the midwest of America.. I then plan on buying a classic sailboat that my wife and I can retire on in about 5 years.. your channel is a wealth of knowledge

[@RefitandSail]

@@bendaves77 pleased you enjoy it. You will find marine Diesel engines are generally 20-30 years behind automotive Diesel engines in terms of technology so nice and simple to work on.

[@denisconnaughton2923]

Great video again. Details of insulation material and glue spray and supplier would be appreciated please. I will be doing my insulation in January on my CO32 project. Thanks again George.

[@RefitandSail]

Take a look at the ASAP supples website for the sounds insulation and supplies, I use the thinnest stuff they do but you can buy thicker for more sounds deadening but it ads more weight and the engine bay is not that big. Hope this helps.

[@shanepalmer6899]

Hi can you show in more detail how to make a engine jig please

[@anthonyelyas2040]

I am loving your videos! Please take 10 minutes to spread a little epoxy into the exposed wood of the limber holes aft of the engine bay. It is a lovely, sturdy repair and I would hate to think of it delaminating over time.

[@RefitandSail]

Already done, dipped my pinkie finger in epoxy and wiggled it around in the hole so the end grain should have some degree of sealing from moisture. I don’t have time to show every little detail of the work done or the videos would be three times as long! Appreciate the comment and pleased you are enjoying the series.

[@anthonyelyas2040]

@@RefitandSail I just watched the seacock service video. You certainly make good use of that pinkie finger!🤣🤣🤣

[@RefitandSail]

@@anthonyelyas2040 haha, sure do!

[@julianmarksuk]

Thanks for an excellent video. Very instructive. Would it be a good idea to use copper grease for the anode thread to ensure good conductivity?

[@RefitandSail]

Could do, the main thing was to keep the water out of the threads which the rubber washer should achieve but a bit of grease (of any type) doesn’t hurt.

[@julianmarksuk]

@@RefitandSail thanks. GREAT VIDEOS.

[@RefitandSail]

@@julianmarksuk thanks

[@thepigwillfly5869]

Nice video, thanks. What brand of sound insulation do you find works best?

[@RefitandSail]

Hard to say which works best, thicker is always going to be better but on a contessa 32 engine bay there is not tons of space so I am using 1” (ish) thick. I like the foil backed stuff because it can be wiped down and it reflects the light so you end up with a brighter than engine bay to work in. On the downside it’s easy to damage with a warward screwdriver or other pointed object. I think the brand I’m using is called or made by Quietlife.

[@Inlovewithsailing]

Great as always. Just an observation shouldn’t fluid levels be checked when it’s in the boat cos the inclination is different and engine isn’t level.

[@RefitandSail]

It’s a good point but I think the dipstick is roughly in the middle of the sum so when the engine is tilted aft slightly the oil level will remain the same. Different story with the gearbox maybe as the dipper is at the front end. I’d normally check it after installing and before running anyway.

[@bendaves77]

I sure hope the owner decides to spend a few extras dollars and pays you to work your magic on the wood in the galley and chart table area.. a little more work and the inside could be totally transformed into something that is functional and works better than it does now

[@RefitandSail]

Yes, full interior strip and refinish is on the list, wood is mostly in good condition but needs refinishing so should look like new when done. Also a galley refit to do, new worktops, locker fronts etc.

[@bendaves77]

@@RefitandSail now I'm really excited to see your future videos on this boat. I'm one of those people that can't just redo one area and leave the rest.. it's all or I'm not messing with it

[@c.a.mcneil7599]

What was accomplished in 52 mins would taken me at least 3 weeks. I see how the owner can afford new prop shaft😊So clean looking. Get rid of wood engine cover go clear polycarbonate. Then a chrome valve cover, some braided fuel lines and some cool lighting for the night. Great job editing that would have took me another 2 weeks.

[@RefitandSail]

@@c.a.mcneil7599 thanks, the work took a little longer than 52 mins, that’s the magic of editing. And the engine bay is getting some downlighting. Not sure about the polycarbonate lid though haha

[@davidclarke7728]

On the site , parts for engines they have yanmar engine mounts for 70 quid each, I only know cos I have a 3GM30F and I get parts from them

[@RefitandSail]

You can get cheaper pattern mounts that are the same size and hole spacing but they are not genuine yanmar. I’m always careful about what non-oem parts I supply. Customer once bought a third-party lift pump (also for a yanmar 2gm) and fitted it, after first outing the engine stopped so he asked me to take a look. The the pump lever that runs on a cam inside the engine has broken so he lost a days Sailing and had to buy another new pump and got me to fit it. Sometimes you can save money, sometimes it’s just not worth it.

[@davidclarke7728]

@@RefitandSail yes I know but it’s worth checking out other providers , these mounts are made in the EU to Yanmar spec , we all know genuine parts can be a complete rip off , so just make sure of a good replacement

[@atschris]

Another great video. Question, why did the engine ‘move forward’ causing you to have to redrill the mount holes?

[@RefitandSail]

The engine was very poorly aligned by whoever fitted it, the propshaft was banging against the side of the stern tube and there was no more sideways adjustment possible on the engine feet so I had to redrill anyway. The engine has also been moved forward to allow me to fit an R&D flexi coupling between the gearbox and the shaft clamp but also to ensure the new holes are a little way away from the old fixing holes (although I still got one hole welded up because it was a bit close. Hope that answers the question.

[@antonyslack3710]

Great videos George, thanks. Quick question though, I thought the rydlyme would dissolve the anodes. Is it not best to remove the anodes before flushing?

[@RefitandSail]

Yes you are absolutely right, the rydlyme can dissolve zink anodes but it would do so incredibly slowly so in an ideal world I would have done the anodes after the descale but in reality the amount of zink it would have dissolved in the time it was in there is negligible so not really worth worrying about. The calcium based desposits on the over hand get dissolved pretty quickly. Good point well made, always happy to be picked up on things like this.

[@krishna_the_griffon6519]

Good to hear, I'm about to do mine this weekend and if removing anodes is one less thing to think about all the better!

[@bluedogozwoofer6737]

annd - I have a gm2 also !!! thanks

[@RefitandSail]

Thanks very much for the kind donation to the beer and new camera fund, it’s appreciated.

[@SM40]

Is there a technical reason for painting with flo coat over bilge paint? Nice job!

[@RefitandSail]

Either option is fine. Using poly flow coat gives a hard scrubbable and more resilient/longer lasting finish than paint but it needs a bit more prep time and really shouldn’t be applied over old paint as the styrene will often make the paint bubble and you end up with a big mess. Paint is easier in terms of prep but you may needs a few applications to get the film thickness you want and is more easily damaged. So it a surface has been previously painted I’d paint again, if it has not then flow coat can be worth doing.

[@mathew5315.1]

I've been searching the Internet for 2 months looking for this simple answer. Thanks George. Videos are great don't change.

[@kbbarton1]

What was that spray that you were using to install the sound insulation?

[@RefitandSail]

Spray on contact adhesive, ideally I use the high temperature resistant stuff but this engine should never get that hot.

[@ArtifexBarbarus]

Do you think there’d be any harm to mixing in a bucket full of cheap ping pong balls with that expensive foaming epoxy you used to fill the large void over the stern tube? Seems like you’d end up with a lot of small thoroughly sealed voids surrounded by lots of strong epoxy arch shapes

[@RefitandSail]

That may work… it would not be as strong as just the foaming epoxy but it depends if you need the strength or not (which depends on the boat) but I can’t see if not working in theory.

[@bishopkinlyside8477]

you think with the owner would put in a new shop after all that Work he’s doing it’s not that expensive

[@RefitandSail]

A new shop?? Was that a typo?

[@colinwinters6140]

@@RefitandSail I’m thinking typo. Probably ment shaft. I was thinking the same thing. Great vid btw.

[@RefitandSail]

@@colinwinters6140 ahh, yes you are probably right. Maybe I forgot to mention it but yes, it’s a new f51 duplex S-Steel (that’s a harder and more corrosion resistant alloy run 316) shaft going in.

[@Sp3ktral22]

Dude! WTF happened to your wheels?

[@RefitandSail]

Urgh, I would say don’t ask but I showed the pic so it deserves an explanation. I was moving a block of wood on deck (to go under another engine I’m removing) the deck was icy, I slipped, the block of wood landed on the van. Just pleased it didn’t land on a person or a customers car. Very annoying but I should have taken more care.

[@MrJeep75]

Learn something new about anoids