Yeah this LEGO Piece is Awesome. LEGO Door Rail Part 2

Welcome to Bricksculpt and thank you for watching. This is part 2 of the LEGO door rail piece and I have regained my love for this piece. Please let me know below in the comments what your favorite ways to use this piece are and maybe we can learn a few things from each other. If you have any questions please let me know and I will do my best to answer them. Thanks for your help and support!
#lego #afol #legoaddict

[@Astroplatypus]

The diagonal plate fitting is exactly why it can hold your "captured cross" assembly in place! Cool!

[@bricksculpt]

Yes! There's a link for sure!!!

[@bred4ev3r]

@@bricksculpt Most likely something to do with the square root of 2

[@TheCamer1-]

Oh my goodness that final revelation is genius. There's some deep math in there, I'm gonna sit down and figure it out

[@shaneomacmcgee]

√(1²+1²) = √2 ≈ 1.414

[@Marconius6]

If that diagonal fits perfectly, it means the rail is some multiple of root 2 in size. So there's definitely some clever math here, I think.

[@bricksculpt]

I think so too.

[@MrAgamble]

That final math SHOULD be the same math that made it perfect for stopping the 45° piece, should it not? There is something about the squareroot of 2 that must be really close to this piece's dimensions.

[@bricksculpt]

Yeah that's what I'm gathering

[@lucahermann3040]

It definitely is.

[@carlocousins9714]

The rail is supposed to protrude out the same length as the height of a flat tile. Given that 2 and a half flat tiles go into the space of one stud, it would mean that it protrudes out 40% of the way to the next line of studs. It therefore makes sense with the whole diagonal 2x2 feature because the square root of two is about 1.4

[@coasterblocks3420]

If someone was to produce “The Secret Book of LEGO Math”, I’d pay any amount of money for that.

[@bricksculpt]

Yeah I would buy that

[@pr0hobo]

Like I posted in under the last video, doing the math, the width of the door rail piece as a who is √2 studs, which means its exactly the diagonal width of a 1x1 square. as you demonstrated in the video adding a second plate makes the distance between studs also √2, which is also the distance between diagonal studs on a 2x2 plate. Though I included a lot of measurement in my previous comment the only one thats super important is the √2 part which math people will love.

[@PhoenixClank]

Wait a moment. That means that this plate has the property of metric paper! If you put two of them together, so you'd have a "plate 2 x 2 with door rails on opposite sides", that would have the same aspect ratio as a single one! And if you were to cut one in half, into a "plate 1 x 1 with door rail", it would have the same aspect ratio again! (The aspect ratio is 1:√2)

[@bricksculpt]

Love the math!

[@jacobbrown1407]

It could be neat to make a whole tiled plate using the diagonal tiles, if you can add a plate next to the door rail, then you could just keep going with more door rails

[@meganjones9670]

I can see instances where that last option could be used for more detail, since two 1x2 jumpers of different colors could be used, instead of a single color 2x2. Plus, it's a stronger connection, since two studs instead of just one. I could see it being very useful if you wanted to make a building in your city that's offset by 45 degrees, instead of perfect right angles between every building. Try it out.

[@bricksculpt]

Lots of good points! Thanks

[@StarScapesOG]

That diagonal connection at the end could be used with something like a 2 x 8 plate to make "structural" elements for builds that are actually decorative. Or maybe it is strong enough for some light weight uses? It would give a very industrial, early to mid 1900s vibe.

[@bricksculpt]

Tile video coming out real soon where I talk about it more, stay tuned.

[@Reegeed]

7:00 i don't have this piece so its more of a guess: what about adding one rail from above to hold one wheel from both sides? have you tried playing with diagonal to make a construction similar to that in roller coaster? Rods seem pretty obvious, they are very flexible lengthwise

[@patricklachenmeier7723]

Thank you very much for these videos. Please keep it up, they are so useful and I learn a lot about how to use certain parts everytime.

[@bricksculpt]

Glad you like them! I will do my best to keep them coming!

[@WandererEris]

With the vertical door, you could possibly rework that into a portcullis for a castle build.

[@bricksculpt]

I was thinking the same thing!!!

[@lucahermann3040]

If you have a "Wedge, Plate 2 x 2 Cut Corner" (element 26601), you can see the 45° edge is almost exactly as long as the rail plate (√2 vs. 1.425 studs). So if you take for example two 2x2 wedge plates and two 8x8 wedge plates, you can create a 45° gap that fits five short rail plates. Important: it has to be five short ones. (Using a long one and a short one would make it slightly too long, so you need the tolerances of five short ones). I'm sure this could have some great applications.

[@bricksculpt]

It sounds good but you are loosing me on the second part please explain the "two 8x8 wedge plates" please.

[@HelloEightDays]

Thumbs up 👍 cool video

[@bricksculpt]

Thank you!

[@Stereomoo]

Working from Studio, the Skateboard Wheels appear to be 2 studs + 1 plate wide. So for 2 door rails facing each other, you put them on top of studs 4 apart + a 1 plate insert between them. For example, if you take 4 of 99780 (1x2 - 1x2 bracket), put 2 of them facing away from each other on a 2x2 brick, then the other 2 with the bracket part pointing up, then rails on those, they appear to be the right distance apart. Plenty of other ways to build this same distance with snot bricks, this one's just easy to make a parts list for. [edit] tried with actual parts and the real Skateboard Wheels are something like a quarter plate narrower than in Studio. Annoying. Actual width is more like 2 studs + 1/2 plate + 1/6 plate. If I attach 2 door rails facing the same direction on the underside of a 2x3 brick (so 1 stud spacing between them, but facing the same way), they seem to put the tracks very slightly too close together, but within tolerances to work.

[@bricksculpt]

I will have to try that. I didn't put a ton of effort into finding a solution just tried the obvious ones. Maybe a future video.

[@fax182]

You should check lego train set 7722 and its postal wagon 😊😊

[@edwardlees4585]

Using downward brackets and steering wheels you can make a 2-plate thick door if the brick is too big.

[@bricksculpt]

I like that idea

[@hearthergd7462]

I have never been a lego kid, mainly because I have never had legos, but these videos are making me realise how cool they are!

[@bricksculpt]

It's never too late

[@gaborszucs8935]

Just recently found your channel and i really enjoy your videos where you are messing around with specific pieces like this one and the triangular piece that you "hate"... The upward sliding door here made me think of DOOM instantly... id love to see a DOOM m.o.c. :)

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks so much. I'm glad you're enjoying the content. Doom was my favorite game as a kid (also wolfinstein) a doom moc would be sick!!! I need a LEGO BFG and a minotaur!

[@darioferretti3758]

You missed being able to slide the door rails onto other door rails (instead of the C shaped block) it's not as secure (which might be a benefit sometimes), but it's a lot flatter

[@bricksculpt]

Yeah that works but the math of it isn't great in my experience. It causes some spacing issues.

[@strider3438]

Love it, very cool! ❤

[@bricksculpt]

Glad you like it thanks!

[@seamusrichardson6011]

So, mathwise, treating the distance between two studs as 1, the rail is 2√2 - 2 because the diagonal of a square is 2√2 and the distance of the two normal studs is 2

[@seamusrichardson6011]

I mean - 1 not - 2

[@diatonicdelirium1743]

The distance between the two diagonal studs is sqrt(2) times the normal distance, i.e. 1.4142 * one brick = 11.31mm, while the rail piece is about 11.4mm wide nominally. The difference is small enough. Another application: if you put one plate in between two rail pieces, you can slide another rail piece in!

[@bricksculpt]

I will have to try that

[@MrAgamble]

@@diatonicdelirium1743 so that would make his method illegal? Since there is almost a millimeter in difference there? How annoying

[@diatonicdelirium1743]

@@MrAgamble 1/10 of a mm, that probably falls into the fudge space - I think the actual size is about 1/10 of a mm smaller on all sides than nominal. That still makes this 'too tight', but it shouldn't actually put stress on anything.

[@bricksculpt]

Definitely smaller than a millimeter. But likely illegal. If you connect many of the next to each other, they eventually start to show a slight bow.

[@MrAgamble]

@@bricksculpt do you think it matters that a standard 1*1 brick also is 0.2 mm too short? I believe they do this for making them able to be detachable easier. Though, the 0.2mm never change, mo matter the size of the brick, whereas in this case, it would add up no matter what

[@jakobsemajergaric]

I wonder how part 30586, the 2x8 door rail, fits into the math equations.

[@worldsheaviestjamband93]

I love it and wish they had it on the PAB wall more often.

[@Qoonutz]

Great sharing! Thank you!

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks for watching!

[@paqshet4648]

As one could expect, the math on the diagonal spacing is not perfect, though it is less than a 10th of a millimeter short of being so (~0.086 mm). There is in other words a negligible bit of tension on the 2x2 plate.

[@remus_lupin]

I don't do my own MoCs often, but have a couple ideas planned, where I knew from the start this piece & the C one that goes with it (or custom solutions, if I need to shrink stuff down to fit) play a part. First, when TRU was liquidating, I got a bunch of LEGO Batman sets cheap, planning to do a custom transforming Batmobile, eventually, & a sliding canopy is a must, if I can get it to fit at Minifig scale (want it displayable with my official LEGO Batmobiles, which I didn't have when I got the idea, & my MoC bat-tank). Finding the right starting point has been difficult, for as compact as I want it. Mostly been playing around with arm ideas, off & on, buying the better looking official mechs for inspiration. Probably need a table I can just leave projects on, to really get going. An idea I settled on is basing it on the Nirvash, from Eureka Seven, but getting it to be the size of the other Batmobiles, transformable & stylish will take LOTS of trial & error. The second is an idea I got a 2nd Galaxy Explorer for. I almost never buy a set twice, but the Galaxy Explorer demanded a custom from me & seemed reasonably-ish priced, so I bought 2 the day I got both. I loved the old LEGO Space stuff, with M-Tron, Blacktron, Ice Planet & Space Police. I'm wanting to take my extra Galaxy Explorer & mix it with the Space Police Rebel Hunter. The Rebel Hunter has a transformation feature, where it drops its centralized prisoner pod & shortens. Haven't decided what I want my MoC to transport, but I've thought of a few transformation features that reshape it from a no winged form, with its cargo, to a shorter one with wings. This one's probably simultaneously the most complex, yet easier of the 2 to pull off. I just need to finally get an idea of what I want the pod to be, since that dictates the conversion geometry. A droppable base/lab, prison or garage? Another vehicle? Regardless, the general idea is basically based on Rebel Hunter & Thunderbird 2. The Rebel Hunter used axels as a stablizing guide & some standard hinge pieces. The rails should give more options. And writing this, I had the idea of folding rail sections, so it can slide along rails with gaps, & folding some let's it drop, so it could have multiple configurations, not just cargo & faster flight. I don't comment much, anywhere, but I'm kinda glad I did, this time, because this might not have come to me otherwise. Only kinda, because it significantly increases the possibilities, & thus, the complexity. Might go from 2 or 3 forms (cargo, no cargo & shortened, winged) to more. Size is less of an issue with this (other than storage concerns), but it's restricted by what I can do with the parts I have, that I'm willing to use. Though, the Explorer is a parts goldmine. My ideas can be pretty complex or ambitious (clearly). Another idea I want to do also coerced me to buy a 2nd set. Got a 3-in-1 oceanic exporer thing (subs & a mech), as VTOL detailing for a pirate themed airship, I've still not started. That will likely involve dismantling the 3-in-1 pirate ship & some other sets I have. Still trying to work out if I want a balloon above it or not, & how I'd construct one, without needing a ton of support structure. Not sure if I'll make this one transform. Depends on what hits me, as I'm building. I also got two 3-in-1 Creator castles, same day, because I knew 1 would be too small. No room to plan, build & keep a bigger one, at the moment, though, so I've only built the default castle. Will probably build the alt build's catapult, whenever I dismantle the built one & start playing around with the parts of 2 of them. The rails could come in handy for secret room hidden entrances, though.

[@bricksculpt]

You have a lot of projects! Sounds fun

[@futon1832]

About that little gap where hinge piece fits. What about a base plate? You could make a snot baseplate with that which would be interesting. Or a rail for baseplates to slide into if turned sideways.

[@bricksculpt]

I didn't think about a baseplate. Is a snot baseplate even legal ??? I need a ruling on that one!😁

[@jordanfish]

A fascinating inquiry you’ve got going!

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks

[@AJB2K3]

I can hear the Star Trek Sliding door sound.

[@logicianbones]

7:00 (to what was said just before that), the clips and bar method you showed in the A-wedge videos would let you line up the distance of those 1x6 door rails from each other for the two wheels, if you can build around what holds them apart at that distance (although it might move if bumped). Maybe hide it beneath a floor/ground of tiles.

[@bricksculpt]

I thought of that! It would be a lot of work and would have to be very careful with the spacing being perfect but it would work.

[@ceroxcerox6958]

I still miss the combination with old lego motor, you can stick it in its sides like in 8479.

[@grayspirit5779]

New to this channel, and i really enjoy these videos, seeing all the interesting ways to use different lego pieces. that's also why I like the speed champions series, so many fun techniques! Keep these videos coming!

[@bricksculpt]

Welcome aboard! I will try not to disapoint!!

[@TheDabKing710]

Theres also bricks with channels thats are vertical like 4216 thats 1x2 and 88393 thats 1x2x5.

[@bricksculpt]

I totally forgot about the garage door pieces! Now I might need a part 3...

[@NisseHult101]

Really nice part usage, I'm also learning a lot!

[@bricksculpt]

Glad to hear that!

[@LukeSkydragon]

if you want the dolly wheels thing to fit perfectly attach a SNOT brick to the bottom of one then add 2 bricks (or 6 plates) to it then attach the back of a headlight brick to the end and then put the other rail on top of the headlight brick (the rails should face eachother). The dolly wheels appear to be exactly 6 plates wide in Stud io.

[@LukeSkydragon]

Oh and for the fitting the top of the hinge part (which has a 1/4 plate thickness) into the gap between 2 rails I think that means that the rail (itself not counting the stud) is technically 1 1/8 plates wide? I think that the 1/8th plate difference is to reduce friction. I recently have been using the bottom part of that hinge brick to fill 1/4 plate gaps in a stud thick wall created by having something centered on a stud (on a jumper). It works beacuse being centered means that there is a half stud gap to either side (as you probably know 1 stud is 2 1/2 plates that means that half stud gap is 1 1/4 plate wide). That bottom hinge part is 1/4 plate shorter then a normal brick. Its really nice to find ways to fill fractional gaps so I will keep the doorrail in mind if I have a 1/8th plate wide gap :)

[@elijahczysz3057]

Could you do a video on the geometry of those technic hinges? Bricklink calls them ‘locking fingers’. I’m trying to use them to support a long incline, but having troubles the with geometry.

[@bricksculpt]

I will add it to my list. I will need some time to experiment with them first because i dont use them a ton and need a refresher. Do you have a few specific part numbers that you want to see?

[@ukaszbiaas183]

top 10 anime sequels

[@bricksculpt]

Hmm...

[@NadeemMufti]

Wow another video!

[@bricksculpt]

Hope you enjoyed it!

[@clonebrickcommandos]

redemption arc

[@Selepic_2]

One of the the top reddit post shows an illegal method with it (i made it)

[@gordonwerner]

Does part 30586 have similar issues to the door rail parts in this video? What if you mixed and matched them?

[@bricksculpt]

30586 isn't as dimensionaly challenged. It has some weird things about it but not as complicated.

[@Fishysalmon02]

Boooooo you didn't show off the sliding door from the inside of the galaxy explorer 10497 Good video though, I had no idea about the diagonal 2x2s being able to reach over perfectly

[@bricksculpt]

Thanks!

[@DocWorm]

Yeah this wasn't very convincing. - It would work better as a door rail if it fit a plate or a half plate. - As you showed, the C shaped 1x4 rail piece works just fine with a plate instead of a rail, so the door rail isn't useful there - You can put literally anything under a trapdoor, like a jumper or a 2x2 tile with 2 studs - Capturing a piece on a 2x2 jumper doesn't work quite right because the gap is bigger than 1x1 - The diagonal line up again isn't very useful because the rail only serves to fill a space that you probably won't be seeing, and it fills that space with a weird texture. Your points in the original video about how they could achieve the same level of detail and greater functionality if the dimensions were more in system still stand.

[@bricksculpt]

Fair enough good points!

[@Wizzar_sillymus]

1:40 Football not "soccer"

[@NB-br9rv]

Nah we say soccer

[@bartybum]

Wizzar you realise that soccer is just short for association football right??