Toyota F150 Rear Leaf Spring Rebuild and Rust Prevention

Rebuilding the rear leaf springs for the toyota. These were pulled from a late 80's- early 90's F150 2WD.
Build list with parts and tools can be seen here: docs.google.com/document/d/1r...

[@Mr2eyedjack]

Love the propane screw tip! I'll rember that.

[@richardnott9587]

What did you paint the leafs with. I didn't hear you say it and watched a couple times in that part of it. Looked in the stuff you used on the build and didn't find either. Thanks

[@andyvang2522]

Where did u get the leaf pads

[@georgenettlesjr1466]

Now the drill bitvdefeated the purpose

[@briansmith2011]

Nice video. I didn't see anything in your part list for where you got the new new leaf spring insulators. I can't seem to find those anywhere.

[@EastHantsOSRS]

Try calling a local spring shop. I got some for a 1$ a piece , they also sell center bolts and other hardware.

[@oldowl4290]

Nice, I probably would've soaked it overnight in some WD-40 and if needed heat it up with a propane or mapp torch. The more I've used heat over the years (I'm 52) the more I use it on everything like katsup lol. I also highly recommend Muriatic acid for cleaning metal. You can buy it at Home Depot by the gallon I made a long dip tank out of 8" PVC pipe (with a cap so you can reuse it for months..like for a year). Mix it 50/50 with water, let a part soak for 30 minutes, and bam, that shit is clean AF and I mean CLEAN dude. Just rinse it really good with water to neutralize. And in all cases wear good nitrile gloves, eye goggles, and a respirator. Keep your dip tanks outdoors. The fumes are really dangerous. One little wiff and you will instantly cough (just like with oven cleaner, zep purple, etc). I'm used to using these chems though and it's no big deal, but you just have to take the precautions seriously. Lastly, if desired you can use Phosphoric acid as a second dunk afterwards for a really good rust prevention layer. Phosphoric costs more though which is why it's much better as a second "clean dunk" coating and not as the 1st cleaning /etching step with the Muriatic. Just be warned that with the Muriatic, it cleans awesome but will also allow light surface rust to develop really quickly so it needs to be dried thoroughly after rinsing and not kept in high humidity. My point is that it's much better than taking a ton of time with sanding, wire brushing, acetone, etc. Just dunk parts for 30 mins.. and done! Once you get used to using it you find it's hard to pick up a wire brush again. It will also clean a bad flushing toilet in a heartbeat too. There are some KZbin videos on it. Cheers man.

[@TheBossXVI]

👍👍👍👍

[@kyhillbillys10]

How much lift did you wined up getting over stock

[@austinniemela]

Hillbilly Noma it’s about 5-6” higher than stock. It doesn’t look too big right now on the 30’s but should be pretty tall when I put my 35’s on!

[@kyhillbillys10]

@@austinniemela I'm looking to lift the rear of mine only about two inches and couldn't decide on these or 63s

[@austinniemela]

Hillbilly Noma without a add a leaf like I did, you get close to 2”. Depending on shackle length and what direction you mount the leafs. I did short end forward just how they are mounted in the f150

[@krisyaz1545]

Where they the same length as the Toyota? Also what year F150 did the springs come off of.