You won't believe how easy it is to make this laser jig

[@Cmhandyman2015]

Hi thanks for your video can you please let me know the power and speed values you have used as o can’t see properly in the video . As I have a 80w laser to many thanks carlos matias

[@jf6720]

I use the same method - you might want to remind everyone to be sure and have the power of the laser at %1 or lower.

[@seniorchief48]

I normally use 3% but I just found out that it will burn into cork. Totally surprised me.

[@mptron3400]

This is a very good video, thank you. I did this and ran through several rounds of my project and then things started not aligning correctly and I had not moved the jig at all. When I when to check the positioning with my registration marks, everything was off. Why would this happen?

[@CreatedWorkshop]

That’s very interesting as I’ve not seen that happen. Especially if it’s still aligned according to Lightburn. My first thought would be maybe your jig didn’t lock in Lightburn and got nudged?

[@Optikification]

I cant lock shapes and select each square separately. I ungrouped everything and grouped 4 elements then tried locking but the 4 squares are locked as 1.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Try locking the items individually instead of as a group, that should make it to where you can still center up on them

[@angelajenkins9070]

Thank you so much for explaining this concept so well! I followed the steps with you and it worked great.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

So glad it helped!!

[@dunnguitars733]

I do something similar by embedding rare magnets on the corners of the jig

[@CreatedWorkshop]

I’ve thought about working out a way to do that because it would make things simpler for sure

[@dunnguitars733]

@@CreatedWorkshop I just made my jigs a little larger for the quarter size magnets, and epoxy them in. Doing this, you won't ever have to worry about it moving. Good Video

[@CreatedWorkshop]

@@dunnguitars733 I’ll have to see about keeping some of those on hand. Thanks for the comments, and I appreciate it!

[@handleitcorral5646]

We use the Print and Cut feature in Lightburn for our jigs. Never thought about just using absolute coords and saving a little bit of time. Thanks for the info.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

I want to mess with Print and Cut in the future, but for now this is a solid way to do it for me! Glad it was able to be of help!

[@MerleCox]

Great info, thanks!

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Glad it was helpful!

[@larryjoseph1170]

Good video. I think I would add a small half circle cut out to the jig template (for each coaster) to aid your fingers in picking the coasters out without moving the jig. But I'm nit-picking it's a great video.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

That's a great idea!

[@Kingdom_Laserworks]

Thank you for the video. My take away I'm going to try next time I do coasters is just blowing them off with air.that was so easy. I started with water, then waiting for them to dry. Then I moved to rubbing alcohol, it dries immediately. But air is so much cheaper in the long run.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Yeah, air cleans them up really well, and it's something that we all have plenty of access to! haha

[@JackInTheShop]

[@CreatedWorkshop]

🎊 🎈 🎉 Congratulations!! Thanks for the sub!!

[@secobaairways4585]

Interesting video, I am a little puzzled though as you said that you have a Lightburn camera. You will always need to align the bullet holes with the laser origin each time, surely using the camera would eliminate this step and be generally easier too, especially for your round coasters?

[@CreatedWorkshop]

My camera doesn't actually stay in place super well, so I have to keep calibrating it. It's something that's on my list to fix. But, by the same token, the camera can easily become misaligned (at least, in my experience), so if you need something to be dead on every time, using a jig like this is the most sure-fire way to do just that.

[@lamairepr]

Thanks for the video very helpful and was way easier than I was making it. Question on the Monport laser, how do you like it and have you had any issues with it? Thanks again for the video and any information on the laser.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Thanks for the awesome comment! So far, the Monport laser has been fantastic. Highly recommend it. Reliable, fast, and powerful for sure. I do get a kickback from sales, but even if I didn't I would say the same thing. It's not a perfect laser by any means, but it's pretty great especially for the price.

[@chuckgarrett5789]

I disagree about your comment that slate is to absurd the moisture. Why is slate used for your roof of your home if it is collecting so much water?? My designed coasters are for yes a cup but also looks. Thanks.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

The slate for roofs is likely slightly different than the unfinished slate of a coaster. Slate does absorb moisture, which keeps the moisture away from the surface below as well as the cup, accomplishing the task of a coaster 😀

[@mrspowerwash5690]

How long did it take for the four coasters to be lasered? How do you like your machine?

[@CreatedWorkshop]

The four I did in this video take about 23 or so minutes, but I think I can dial that up without losing quality in time. But, for this, I run 300mm/s at 20% power, and it takes about 23 minutes. So far, the machine is absolutely fantastic! Zero complaints.

[@toomanyinterests3686]

this is awesome. thank you. i've been using cardboard as a one-time use jigs.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

I'm so glad it was helpful!

[@beentb4805]

Are you located in Tennessee

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Yup!

[@beentb4805]

Great, I was just asking Steve from Hobo with Wood if he knew of any laser you tubers in tnn, and he didn't. I'm 30 miles west of Nashville in Dickson tn.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

@@beentb4805 I’m in the Murfreesboro/Smyrna area! Small world!

[@beentb4805]

That's good to know I'm just getting started. I have only had a laser for 3 months. I have the algolaser delta 22 diode laser. I would love to get a C02 laser as well, but I want to learn more before taking that jump

[@aaronshenk1365]

Good stuff. Thank you for sharing.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Thanks for watching!

[@just_fritzy]

This is the best explanation for making an easy to remove and apply when needed jig without a fixed alignment piece. Thank you!

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Thanks for the kind words!!!

[@Graeme758]

But why wouldn't you use a fixed alignment piece? This is just so fiddly, over complicated and prone to inaccuracy. And so easy to move when placing the slates. Then you have to start this nonsense all over again. In 3 years I have never had a problem with using fixed alignment points on the laser frame and jigs that are just placed against those points.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

With my laser specifically, the honeycomb bed can slightly shift within the frame, so that's not an accurate point for me to reference against. Your laser might not be that way, but the way that these jigs are designed work with *any* laser, regardless of frame rigidity, and also helps cut down on wasted material as some frame reference points are several inches outside of the work area. I've never once had the jig shift once I had it in place and magnets down. Aligning the jig takes maybe a minute when I'm not filming, and it stays in place just fine even when swapping multiple pieces out.

[@playamytrumpet]

Good information but you missed showing so much for the beginner to see and understand what you were doing. Try again please and be more illustrative

[@CreatedWorkshop]

What else would you like to see elaborated on? I can put that in a future video!

[@scottc3571]

@@CreatedWorkshop I agree, a couple of things you mentioned but did not show how to do in Lightburn. 1) Zero Material and 2) Center in Lighburn. That would have been helpfull to see.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

I'm working on ways to better plan out videos to ensure I don't miss things like that again, and those will be featured in upcoming videos for sure!

[@wallaceworkshop]

Informative for a newbie like me.

[@CreatedWorkshop]

Glad to hear it!