I think sometimes we're too hard on ourselves as woodworkers, thinking our shops always have to be picture-perfect "just like those KZbinrs." There's an element to having a clean and organized shop, but there's a similar element to just being satisfied with not having thousands of dollars of cabinets and custom organization hardware.

@ Very well said. It’s woodworking, not cleaning, we are after! Have a great New Year and thanks for the reply.

I’m so glad!

From Great Lakes Laser Supply!

You could cut MDF or plywood to use as a template to route a cutting board out, but I wouldn’t use this to cut thick hardwood. I’d say 1/4” is the max you’d feasibly cut here

@CreatedWorkshop would you recommend this for a first time user?

I would! Honestly, the WeCreat was the easiest laser that I've ever set up and used. You can shop the various WeCreat lasers here: wecreattechltd.pxf.io/Oee3rN

@CreatedWorkshop Thank you, I ordered the 40w bundle with everything with your link. Hope you have some more projects up soon. I will need some ideas!

I do! I'll be posting a Short later today or tomorrow about an ornament I use the Vision 40W to make, and then once we're through Christmas and into the New Year I'll be posting much more frequently!

That’s not a problem I’ve run into before. I would reach out to support

Mine did that after I replaced the print head carriage. I had to adjust the height of the print head over the paper. Mine was too high so I lowered it and that fixed my problem. Tech support was a huge help and walked me through the entire process.

Sadly that's one of the issues that you can run into when aligning any CO2 laser. Make sure you're using very very small movements to align the beam. Even like 128th of a turn, hardly any turn will make a big change. There are also reverse alignment tools sold by American Photonics that go into the laser's head and shine a read light backward so that way you can use that for the alignment portion of stuff. I've spent hours before chasing alignments.

I'm so excited for you! That's awesome you were able to save so much too! Be sure to come back if you have any questions on the laser, I'd love to help out!

That’s very strange. It’s possible that there’s a problem with your ink that’s causing the head to be clogged. How new is your ink?

I'm so glad it was helpful to you! I love Cuttle and can't wait to use it more and more!

You got it! Glad I could help!

I don't have a video on it yet, but here's xTool's walkthrough for it! support.xtool.com/article/1301?from=learning-center

You’re so welcome!

20W fiber, 4,000mm/s, 90% power, 200lpcm, 35 frequency

Thank you for the info

I love mine! It’s been an absolutely fantastic machine for me

Appreciate it man

I’ve not seen the boxes yet, I’ll have to check them out!

Have you pulled ink into the dampers? I’m assuming so, but wanted to make sure.

You can purchase the F1 from this link: www.xtool.com/products/xtool-f1?ref=J2pJmUA2w2vTe& I also have a discount code for the F1! Just send me a message on Instagram or Facebook if you'd like to get it :) @CreatedWorkshop

I’m so glad it helped!

I've honestly never heard of LaserOS or that laser type, so I'm not sure. This method should work with any Ruida-controlled CO2/RF gantry laser though!

Are you talking under normal conditions?

That's awesome! And small world that you're not super far from us, we're just south of Nashville!

@@CreatedWorkshop yes sir Went through the ‘boro yesterday on the way from Memphis. Have a good weekend

The Ultra will engrave wood faster because it's a 10W diode, but I've made thousands using just the standard F1 for wood engraving. It works great as a 10W! It might be slightly slower, but it's still a good choice for the job. The F1 Ultra really takes the show on the metal side of things, as the 2W IR on the F1 goes to 20W fiber on the Ultra, while the 10W diode goes to a 20W diode. So, the diode is twice the power, but the fiber is 10x the power.

It’s seriously a game changer

So glad to hear it!!

Thank you!!

Have you pulled the ink through the waste lines?

@@CreatedWorkshop yes

which ink isn’t coming out? All ink? Or just white?

So hopping on this so I did the same and now only prints black tried a print faded off colors and did everything is brand new even dampers to ​@@CreatedWorkshop

You betcha! The order page is right here: createdworkshop.com/products/family-names-christmas-tree-ornament 😂

Here's the link to ProColored's website to order this head! www.procolored.com/products/procolored-original-print-head-brand-new?ref=gmautghu&variant=41532350398645

Honestly any silicone sealant should work!

I've found the solution after I've send you my question thinking nobody will answer me , but thank you for your reply .

That’s very interesting as I’ve not seen that happen. Especially if it’s still aligned according to Lightburn. My first thought would be maybe your jig didn’t lock in Lightburn and got nudged?

The font I used from this is Times New Roman. It's honestly on the more rare side that I use free Windows fonts as I have a subscription to Creative Fabrica (linked in my description) and get my fonts from there.

Hey there! I typically did 300mm/s speed and 20% power with a .06mm line interval.

I had it about a month or so, but it was negligence on my part. When I was running low on ink I didn't put it into vacation mode and flush the head out, I just kept running ink flushes to keep it good even though I had little/no white ink left, and that's why the head went out.

So now you have no white printing at all? Or is it just printing really light? What happens when you do a nozzle check?

Thank you!

I was aiming for a bright white with it since it’s aluminum, and it came out great!

It's steel as it's magnetic!

Thanks! Glad to hear it!!

It's going to depend on your market for sure, as not every market supports the same type of pricing. Size also plays into it a bit as well, so just play around with your area and see what works best. Red oak is sometimes a little lower on the "desirability" scale than maple, and walnut is often higher on that scale, so your material choice could also play a factor there.

That's a great idea!

Thank you!