Zenith CH-750 Cruzer - We Have a Problem!

I have some good news and some bad news to share with you in this video!
#ch750 #zenithcruzer #airplane #kitplane #experimentalaircraft

[@0akgrove]

Good luck with the new build, looking forward to the build videos.

[@RCjunkie]

I live in Michigan love to come and see your plane, Been into RC for 50+ years

[@GPSJayDog22]

Total bummer buddy :-( All the hard work you've put into this build.

[@tompinnef6331]

Just another problem to fix - you'll get it done. Soon be flying and enjoying flying it around the Midwest. Hope to see some trip videos also. Take care be safe. 'Spin'

[@user-tl5fi9lz9z]

Looking forward to the Super Duty build!

[@markperkins5664]

Woohoo! 👍 Sweet! Another build. I’m happy for you (and me). 😆

[@kathleenterry391]

Mark, try pulling your elevator, good time to never-seize the hinge pin. With the elevator out of the way, try a doubler in the offending rib or just file the clearance needed.

[@donaldholman9070]

Great video. Thank you for sharing.

[@k.d.powell8199]

Different coefficients of thermal expansion between aluminum and plastic is a potential contributor. And, many materials are left with built in stresses that cause them to have a bias to move in a particular direction when they heat up... so that's a long-winded way of saying, you can be experiencing unfortunate thermal expansion tolerance stack ups! ONE IDEA: you could first try working on the plastic stabilizer tip by bonding in a rigid piece of material (a short section of EXTRUDED aluminum L-angle, or even hard tubing) as a kind of spine on the inside of the plastic tip, along the curvature. I'm sure you'll get all kinds of suggestions, that's just the approach I'd take. (Also like the suggestion about removing rivets, letting it sit in the sun until hot, then re-riveting; probably the best first attempt.) Good luck and thanks

[@rockinpiano1]

The simple way to solve your elevator rubbing problem is to paint the part "white" that warps with sunlight/heat.

[@travisweide9071]

Stickers are awesome!

[@lawrencenicolin409]

I would not bend anything or make any rivet holes oblong if I were you. Rather remove the elevator and grind a safe gap size.......Messing up the paint should be the least of your worries......so easy to do over. Love your plane......and looking forward to your video on the tools needed to build it.........!!!!!!!

[@jwelman1]

Those darn teething problems... good to find them now and fix them.

[@charlesbrewer6552]

Maybe the answer is to remove the starbord tip.

[@daverobinsonTnT]

A proper repair requires that the structure securing the horizontal stabilizer’s plastic tip be stiffened, so that it does not allow the plastic tip to rotate, as components expand at differing rates during the heat of the day.

[@lisaleedavidson]

I would carefully grind just the area of contact, inside plastic. Depending on what paint you used, if there was a hardener you can use the end (fuzzy) of a match and dip it in paint of the same color (without hardener added) and touch it up. The hardener in the existing paint will cause it to harden and it should look good. If there are any irregularities in the finished paint you can use some polishing compound to blend it in. The match trick I learned from a body and paint professional. I think it would be such a minor alteration to match the gap in the left elevator and eliminate the major change you are planning. It would also be noticeable that different sized rivets are used and most people would see that as a damage repair instead of an alignment issue. I know it will be in your aircraft logbook but still noticeable.

[@hongshi8251]

Mark- Super Duty! Yes!

[@toddr2265]

Looking forward to watching the new build Mark.

[@can5projects563]

awesome plane buddy

[@DARANGULAFILM]

Before you go ahead to strip, drill and refinish, maybe try a thin and narrow non-expanding ( stainless steel ) metal strap front to rear along the tip fairing midway between top and bottom running along the widest point. The rear end should fold around and the attachment rivet should be into the rib if there is no gap there. My personal preference would be to also use an adhesive bond under the strap to avoid fretting of the composite material beneath over time. If this method works as a spar strap reinforcing for Beech wings, it may fix your problem. You might also consider refinishing the tips in white to reduce heat absorption from sunlight. Filling the space within the hollow tip with expanding foam might also help with your problem but over time the material may deteriorate and allow the problem to return. The pressure from the expanding foam if the quantity is not correctly estimated and insufficient relief holes made for wastage may swell the rib inwards and jam the control completely. Most important of all, do things safely. Dead is easy. Lifelong disability is not.