Zenith Super Duty: Seat Belts and Wiring Harness for AeroLED lights (Ep51)

In this episode of the Zenith Super Duty build, we are installing the seat belts and a wiring harness for the AeroLED landing/recognition lights. This was a big step on this STOL kitplane and I am glad is complete.
In this video I show the AeroLED Landing/Recognition lights. Here's a link to those lights: aeroleds.com/products/microsu...
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#aeroleds #STOL #kitplane #zenithaircraft

[@foesfly3047]

I’m luvin the Ejimication Board 😆

[@wb6anp]

I ended up pulling the top rivet from the back side. I also didn't like the idea of the possible crushing of the channel and added a spacer between the skin and channel to prevent crushing. My kit came with an AN7 bolt. I wish I had seen that electrical install before I riveted those channels.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

The spacer is a good idea!

[@andyduinker461]

I agree - a spacer is a great idea. The size of that bolt kinda indicates the amount of load possible on the bushing and the hole in the channel. Do you think the channel is heavy enough to sustain the constant load on that bolt. Is there a big washer under the head of that bolt as well?

[@davejoynt6276]

Love the Jethro Bodine Edjimacation Board. The plane is coming along nicely, thanks for sharing.

[@Project2Aero]

Looks like s super clean way to route the electrical to me sir!

[@davidrobins4025]

Your solutions to the problems you face are always so practical. Thanks for sharing this video.

[@brianmorrison1344]

Like the RV-15 sticker!!!, I've been hoping for years that Vans would build a high wing..

[@JoesRCCorner]

Nice work. I really like the amount of access panels the SD has.

[@jasonwilliams4520]

One option you could do for those two wires you need to connect, is put them in the plug and then use a short jumper wire on the other side of the plug.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

I actually have a bag of crimp connectors that are made for securing two wires. They are called "Closed End Splice". I bought them at Oshkosh but I can't remember the vender.

[@flycow69]

Nice work as usual. Too bad I didn’t met you at Oshkosh this year. I was there as a vendor this year.

[@skyking643]

Hey Mark...your project is really coming along...I like your OCDness. I bought a pair of AeroLED Strobe/position/ navigation wing tip lights and I'd like to know how to install them. You said you were think of doing a wiring video...by all means yes !!! Could your include info about: shielded vs. unshielded cable, wire gauge of conductors, number of conductors per cable , grounding of shielding (whats this ground looping thing all about) and connectors plugs.....you get the idea ..looking forward to your wiring episode....thanks for all your great videos.

[@anthonyamadio1998]

Fantastic video thanks

[@michaelk1266]

plans are metric 👏

[@MichaelLGriffin]

I am learning so much from you it should be billable! Have you considered running the headset comms cables and plug points in the cabin ceiling bulkhead so the headset lead plugs in marginally behind you so they are out of the way but still allow freedom of movement? I am doing something similar in my KR2 build and so far feels more comfortable than having them in-front of me. Secondly, will you be putting a protective channel over the fuel lines on the floor board? Maybe add a raised floor panel like the Cruiser? May cost a little weight but protects the fuel line, shorter electrical cable lengths and helps reduced radiated heat from below (runway surface etc) :) Thank you again for sharing all your priceless knowledge & experience!

[@GeoffH22]

You may want to apply more heat to your solder sleeves. Some of them look like they have incomplete solder flow.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

You are correct-already done!

[@johnfitzpatrick2469]

G,day from Quarantine lockdown Sydney Australia. Your moving forward with the Super duty with quality in mind. * Unusual the incorrect specified bolt diameter. * The light testing with alergator clip connections: is that what is referred to as fluctuations in circuit continuity? * Good to see the wiring grommets in the frame. Take care and blue skies. 🌏🇦🇺

[@danielbasovitch5087]

ok,ok, that's true, I didn't think of that Mark, sorry

[@rixtrix11]

Build is progressing very nicely! Are you adding a sleeve between the panels at the harness bolt, to prevent "crush"?

[@user-tl5fi9lz9z]

I hope you do a wiring video. Because I haven't got the faintest idea how that kind of stuff is done.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Sam, I'm not the world's leading expert on aircraft wiring, LOL...but when it comes to wiring my SD I will show how I crimp connectors and make a simple harness. I'm sure there are a lot of good videos on KZbin about aircraft wiring.

[@user-tl5fi9lz9z]

@@KitplaneEnthusiast it took me a long time to figure out that a harness wasn’t something for a horse. That’s the level of my knowledge of wiring. And yes, there are many videos out there. But most of them assume you have some basic knowledge of electric wiring.

[@DrT_MD]

@@user-tl5fi9lz9z search for SteinAir. They’ve got great videos on basic techniques like how to properly strip and terminate connections, ground a shielded wire, etc.

[@danielbasovitch5087]

Does that bolt get sealed with silicone to prevent leakage into the cockpit?

[@johnreed8872]

Thanks for the update Mark!... I've decided to go with self etching primer instead of Cortec or something like that. Stupid question#1 your parts are primed nice and pretty prior to riveting, do you then come back and re-spray? Q-tip? Sure looks neat and professional, would like to get results like that! Thanks again for the video, Stay Safe!

[@danielbasovitch5087]

So Mark, The seat belt BOLT (1) 7MM is always sitting in weather, outside the aircraft?? I would be skeptical of it's worthiness after a few years .

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

Would you also be skeptical of the wing strut bolts? Or the landing gear bolts? Or the turnbuckle bolts on the rudder? Or the prop bolts, or the....

[@theworshiptraveler6709]

Non issue!

[@Bushmasterpilot]

Is that non-shielded wire?

[@frankstutzman4612]

While I like the idea of running the wiring through that channel to hide it, I'm a little concerned about what happens if one of those wires gets chafed somewhere along its length and you need to replace it. Maybe you could use the old wire to pull in a replacement, but it that might be challenging. But maybe I'm just a little over sensitive here, having had to replace a fair amount of wiring recently in an old Bonanza.

[@davidwhite2011]

If you want a made solution for painting small parts then you can pick up painting pyramids at Rockler or other Woodshop. They are for finishing cabinets and the like. A small sheet of mdf or plywood with screws driven thru are pretty good if file the points down a little. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYeTmYB-Z9WemLM Most can be had for around 32 for 10$ or so on Amazon.

[@DrT_MD]

Do you know how the zenith harness compares to the 4-point harness kit Viking sells?

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

I'm not familiar with the Viking harness.

[@LTVoyager]

It sounds like you need to have both the power switch closed and the wig-wag closed, correct? I was wondering what happens if you power only the wig-wag and not the normal power line. I had an email from Aeroled that gave me the impression that it could be an either-or situation. I was considering using a switch that is in one position for normal landing at night, off in the middle position and then wig-wag in the third position, and I was planning to only power one of the lines at a time, but you have me wondering now it this will work.

[@KitplaneEnthusiast]

I was just thinking of this today as I was writing labels on the panel. I want to do the same thing as you-use one switch. Up would be wing-wag, middle is off, and down would be be both on. When I had it all connected up I should have turned the main switch off, and then just turned on the wig-wag to make sure they turned on. If you look at the wiring diagram, this should work because both switches have their own circuit breaker and both are connect to power.

[@LTVoyager]

@@KitplaneEnthusiast Yes, the email I got from them said that the wig-wag took precedence over the normal always on function, but they also talked about sharing power through both lines so it wasn’t completely clear that just powering the wig-wag line alone was sufficient. Their documentation leaves a little to be desired compared to what I am used to for electrical and electronic devices (I’m a retired EE). I will probably hook mine up and test this before I finalize switch choice, but this would save a switch location using a three-way switch.

[@DustyLambert]

You need a 3D printer my man.