Zero Breeze Mark 2 - Powered by 12 to 24V DC boost converter - Wiring/Testing/Comparison with 120V

UPDATE: I have since upgraded to a 20 amp DC converter and the compressor cycling I later experienced has ceased completely. On hot demanding days the 15 amp converter just couldn't supply enough power.
Here's the DC boost converter I have recently upgraded to (affiliate link works for 24hrs).
amzn.to/3X0YYYT
Here are the wire crimpers I'm using with multiple jaws. There's one in the kit that works well with Anderson in two steps: amzn.to/3Klbivh
"Real" Anderson crimpers specific to Anderson connector fittings: amzn.to/3Vvds25
Anderson sleeves for pro looking cord ends: amzn.to/4bFEIAo
Anderson connector kit I use: amzn.to/4bA1dqz
In this video I wire up a 12 to 24V DC boost converter and test my Mark 2 by powering straight DC from my Goal Zero Yeti 1000, then compare to being powered by the supplied 120V AC power supply.
At the end I test the whole DC setup in a hot 95 degree vehicle. The boost converter did get really hot after several hours of operation, and I only expect that to get worse when the inside ambient is 120 degrees this summer, so fingers crossed that the converter will hold up.

[@04dram04]

These power consumption results are blowing my mind. Every van-lifer needs this thing

[@throlyhd9448]

sucks because its like 1500 dollars for one

[@04dram04]

@@throlyhd9448 Thats with the battery pack. its $900 without. You can plug up to an existing battery bank if you have one

[@ozmanfidaar6311]

@@04dram04 Yes, this is a good point. Just oversize your battery system and shave off a 3rd of the price.

[@mikeweaver4377]

Thanks for that. All the information I was looking for in one spot. Appreciate it

[@MRL3234]

24 VOLT BATTERY!!! ??? This weekend I'll be connecting my MARK-II to a 24v battery... directly with out a converter, using the connector from ZeroBreaze... hoping for good results. We love our ZeroBreaze in our small van for camping... it has it's limitations of course... we love it. And thank you for your testing and this youtube video!

[@Polymathicus]

You're welcome! That's very convenient to run straight from a 24V battery for sure. Chime back in and let us know how it works out doing it that way.

[@TwistedOmYoga]

Sooo How’d it go?

[@jrsryder]

Thank you for this terrific video. I'm considering this unit for the cuddy on my 23-1/2 foot boat. I've researched the some step-up converters and will definitely go with a 20-25 amp unit thanks to your commentary. One thing I have yet to hear mentioned in the many Zero Breeze videos I've watched: An average human being at rest emits about 330 BTU's / hour of heat. So, in a scenario where there are two occupants in the cooled space, the ZB2 will be required to overcome 660 (or more) BTU's / hour, in addition to the current inside temperature and possible temperature gains from outside conditions.

[@Polymathicus]

Good call on the 20+amp converter. Doesn't cost much more and you won't have to worry about it. That's a great question about people heat for sure. Only speaking for myself and my own use...I use it in such a hot environment there's no chance of bringing down the ambient temp during the day in the sun, so it's kind of irrelevant for me. But I've seen many reports online from those using at night in hot places to help sleep and seems like many have had good success with it in cooling down an insulated space. They don't say how many people occupy that space however from what I've seen.

[@kevinssolaradventure284]

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!

[@CaseyTurnerMusic]

Great video. You should consider radio voice overs lol. Awesome narration vocal

[@Fei8lo]

This video is really useful. I happen to already have a 2.5 KWh 24v battery pack I use to run Dometic fridge so this would be a great addition to extend camping season.

[@Polymathicus]

Yeah, just wire it right up, and fuse it. As long as your battery bank is outputting stable 24v (within the +/- range of the Mark 2) can't see why there would be any other issues.

[@Canoneosmiami]

Sir you make an amazing videos ,100% useful content,great radio/tv voice personality,you should be in media, very thankful for your work here ! Super cool ! If you could make a slow detailed video how to wire the 12v to 24v for us idiots who never soldiered that would be great ! Also with a link of a device u got on amazon .thanks a lot again ..

[@Polymathicus]

Thanks! I'm definitely not an expert at soldering, but maybe I can work something up in more detail at some point.

[@cwnln88]

I agree, I want to hear him narrating nature documentaries or something in the near future.

[@whomarjb]

Great presentation Sir

[@commonsensepatriot9450]

Very good straight forward video

[@12vLife]

Thank You for this great work! Subbed. 7:51 This is extremely valuable research. I am upgrading my van rooftop solar to 320 watts and I have that same 12v to 24v 20amp converter I was planning to use for the exact same test! 115 watts would be amazing if this AC could cool the tiny living space in my like van of around 5x5x5 with some minor openings. The entire vans roof will be under solar (shaded) and when camping I put a silver tarp on the front and usually have wet clothing drying on the sides blocking the sun. My fridge, TV and phone charger consume about 50 watts. If i could be at net zero loss amps at 6pm on a semi cloudy day that would incredible. The one question I have about the Mark II to is about the dual air vents in the back. My van has a single 7" vent hole on the roof. Can leave one of the tubes (the one sucking air in) unplugged?

[@Polymathicus]

Sounds like you could get close to net zero amp loss for sure. Several on the facebook Mark 2 page have cordoned off small areas of their vans and insulated heavily, and have been able to cool that small area during the day. As far as the single hose to the outside. You are purging air from the inside which is creating a vacuum in the vehicle, so you must crack a window to provide that "make up air" to feed the rear inlet hose to cool the condenser and replace the air you are exhausting. If you're blocking off a small area of your van though, it might not make much difference to open a window up front. In my testing I've found that when it's REALLY hot and sunny, the Mark 2 just cannot (by design) overcome that kind of heat load in my minimally insulated vehicle, so I just crack several windows anyways as that gets some of that heat buildup out, and I just concentrate on cooling me with the Mark 2.

[@tradmanmike3360]

GREAT VIDEO, WELL NARRATED, VERY USEFUL INFORMATION! NEW SUB. ALWAYS THUMBS UP!!!

[@AirSteve-O]

Excellent video … thanks man😉

[@larrybelton5489]

Great video , enjoyed it

[@danielportilloarevalo6228]

Gracias muy útil tu investigación.... saludos desde Chihuahua México

[@lorneserpa5888]

Excellent info. Thanks.

[@MyGoogleYoutube]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Any updates in the ZB performance? Any issues with condensation draining?

[@Polymathicus]

I'm uploading a full Yeti battery test in a hot car video as I type this. No condensation whatsoever here in the desert so I can't speak to that. Works great when it works, but had some issues with the compressor cycling as you'll see.

[@davebalzotti9302]

Thank you so much this helped me a lot.

[@bobcorc]

Thanks, man. Realy useful.

[@TuanLeViet]

Very useful, thanks alot.

[@kayaking_camping]

Love this video, I just ordered a 12 volt to 24 volt, what size cable should I use to wire this converter to the cigarette lighter plug in thank you for everything, keep the good stuff coming out . God bless you

[@Polymathicus]

Thanks! First, you need to make sure that the cigarette plug you will use can output ~25amps continuously and safely. Then, in my opinion when building DC cables in general, use the largest gauge cable that you can stuff into your various cord end / plug. The connector on the Mark 2 for example that they use has a super small hole, and I struggled to find something of adequate gauge that would clamp down in there. If you take a look at your converter (if it's the amazon type like mine) and match up the gauges that are coming in/out of it since that's going to be the "choke point" you should be good, since you're limited by those wires coming in/out of it. I don't remember what mine are at the moment, maybe 12/14 (in/out). Keep cable runs as short as possible (especially 12V since you're pushing higher amps)...longer the run, larger the cable. I hope that helps get you there, I know it wasn't necessarily an answer!

[@djmothball6325]

Do you have any of the links for some of the cables and connectors you used??

[@shaggymcdaniel3216]

I’m still waiting for my Mark 2. I have a Jackery 1000, so my setup is comparable to yours. That DC setup that you have is amazing. I really want to do the same thing. So the 12V to 24V adapter sold on the ZB website is different than what you made?

[@Polymathicus]

Yes, different, I bought mine on Amazon. They specify on the website last I looked that theirs is only intended to charge the proprietary battery. They specify it's not to be used to power the Mark 2 as it may drain the power source (car battery). But the specs listed imply that it will do exactly what mine will with a suitable power source (that is, push 240 watts max into the Mark 2).

[@MooreDoing]

I recently purchased the ZB to use in my camper van and have been running on AC so far. I was debating the investment of a converter but hoped to see the consumption difference before doing so. If I followed your vid correctly, it boils down to a 14-ish amp usage on AC versus 10-ish amp usage on DC. Over a period of 8 hours that would be 32 amps difference, which is roughly 11% of my current capacity. Seems to be worth it on paper. ZB offers an adapter for $100 but they market it as a battery charger but lower on the page make mention of powering the ZB with it. I've asked for clarification. Thank you for sharing this vid.

[@Polymathicus]

Its not a HUGE difference in consumption, but if you're pinching watt hours, it makes a difference. As far as the converter, you never know what you're going to get from China. The first one I bought from Amazon was a 15amp and it wouldn't run the Mark 2, so I upgraded to a 20amp and it works great. I think ZB markets theirs as battery only so people don't go trying to run the AC off their cigarette lighter plugs being fed by 18 gauge wires. If you are feeding it from a constant, clean, adequate, DC power source with adequate wire gauge, you'll probably be good. I'd assume the guts of their converter is what you get on amazon, or similarly capable. You just save some money rolling the dice on an Amazon one.

[@MooreDoing]

@@Polymathicus I've ordered the components from Amazon and will give it a go. I'm doing this partially for the power savings but also to avoid running my inverter all the time. The only reason I run my inverter is when cooking on my induction cook top or powering Starlink. I want as much as possible running off my 12v system to avoid power loss in conversion/running the inverter. Thanks again for the vid. It was helpful.

[@Polymathicus]

Glad is was helpful! Good luck with the project.

[@Bellasafari]

@@MooreDoing hey did you do the conversion adapter or stick with using AC or purchase the converter from ZB?

[@sanders081]

Thank you for this. Any comment on this from ZeroBreeze website, "It is not recommended to use the adapter to power the Mark2 air conditioner directly, as it may damage your power source once it isn't able to supply continuous and sufficient power." I REALLY want to use DC to power it. Thanks!

[@sanders081]

Oh, just read your answer to a similar question. So you think it's okay to power ZB directly from 12 to 24 converter?

[@Polymathicus]

You can use DC. You'll need a suitable battery, adequately sized power wires, and a converter to supply the Mark 2 with 24V. I found I needed a 20amp converter. The first, 15amp I bought off amazon kept making the compressor cycle, but as soon as I upgraded the converter all has been well for over a year. I think you might be referencing the converter on their website that also comes with a cigarette lighter plug end? You most certainly would not want to power the Mark 2 from a cigarette lighter plug in a car. But you can wire the one currently on their site to your own battery. I would assume the guts inside there are the same as the converter I bought on amazon.

[@sanders081]

@@Polymathicus Thank you for your thorough response. I really appreciate your generosity with your expertise and help. :-)

[@Roland-Lewis]

Great videos! I've gone through 4 so far and read the comments, and could not find the answers I'm seeking... What state do you live in? Is your vehicle insulated? If so, how much insulation/thickness (walls, ceiling, and floor)? Thank you in advance and keep the great vids coming.

[@Polymathicus]

Thank you. I live in a hot dry climate. My vehicle only has it's own insulation from the factory (not much at all). If you head over to the Mark 2 facebook page there are many examples of van builds with extra insulation using the Mark 2 successfully.

[@Roland-Lewis]

@@Polymathicus Thanks for the tip. I just read through the FB group page--man there sure is a lot of crap you have to sift thru to get any good substance, but yes--I see what you mean. Looks like folks have had good success with a well-insulated van. Due to all the bad reviews of the company, I think I'll give it a few months and revisit this in the spring to see how the company is doing. Who knows--maybe they'll have a ZB3 by then.

[@lazarofernandez3663]

Very informative videos! I am currently using the converter from zerobreeze, and it does not work. Will be purchasing a unit like you have from amazon but have questions on wiring to the mark 2 cable. What pins are used for the 24v output? Or is it just two wires when I cut the cable?

[@Polymathicus]

Thanks. What was the issue exactly with the Zero Breeze converter so I can pass it on to others. There's a pinout diagram on the back of the A/C power brick, so I would verify on yours just in case something changed, but mine uses pins 1/3. 1 is positive and 3 is negative. Nothing was hooked up to 2/4 on mine. I highly recommend a multi-meter if you don't already have one. They can be gotten cheap online or from HF. This way you can plug your power brick into the wall and verify on the Mark 2 end plug which pins are getting the 24V.

[@darkthoughts1688]

Yeah it's always best to use the natural voltage of the appliance if possible. Dc to ac to dc loses efficiency every step of the conversion. Cheaper inverters loses even more.

[@larrygrigar3793]

Got it! :0)

[@dncook1955]

jr25.....I'm still thinking of a specially, specially, specially made sleeping bag with baffles / plenum chamber, etc that the cool air is mixed with a blower and discharged into a "bag in a bag" around you , another words cool the bag, not the whole van for sleeping. There is a fan system made that blows under your blanket for sleeping. Something similar but with dry cool air from the ZB,

[@Polymathicus]

Could work for sure. Wonder how to also get the cool air under you between you and the bed where all that built up heat is? Maybe not necessary. Have you seen the link in another comment about the water cooled blanket? Completely different route but interesting none the less, as it does what you're talking about and pulls the heat out of the person. www.chilitechnology.com/products/chiliblanket#more-details-anchor

[@dncook1955]

@@Polymathicus Interesting, gave me some ideas.

[@simpleliving7743]

Thanks for the valuable, well presented testing. May I ask if it is more secure and even possible to run the zerobreeze with this DC Converter: Victron Energy Orion IP20 12/24 Volt 20 Amp DC-DC Converter I do have other victron products installed within my campervan and aim for a clean and permanent installation of the zerobreeze under the passenger seats in the back, connecting it over the converter directly to a 300ah LifePo4 12v Battery. Any input is much appreciated.

[@Polymathicus]

I don't see why not. Can't go wrong with Victron. I've got a whole bunch of blue in my RV. Those specs are what I've got in my China converter. Just make sure you're fused. That'll be nice to just have it hardwired into your system.

[@Chubbydippin]

Great review. Thankyou for your efforts. Can't seem to find a plug n play 12v to 24v converter booster adapter kit. I've seen many other types of dc adapters that cover all types of different manufacturers inputs and outputs. Seems like some company would make one? Male connectors on the 12v input side and female connectors on the 24v output side would be nice. Any thoughts on where, or if, a pre made, no termination required option could be found?

[@Polymathicus]

The only one I'm aware of with ends put on already is the one that zero breeze sells. It gets you close with what looks like xt60 end on the input side. www.zerobreeze.com/collections/mark-2-accessories/products/12v-to-24v-inverter-for-mark-2-battery

[@Chubbydippin]

@@Polymathicus Thankyou

[@nickandro127]

👏🏼

[@kevinfumerton2634]

Hi! Thanks for all your videos, I've watched many times to learn from your ways 🙂This being said, when I wired like you did, my zero breeze starts beeping and will not turn on. I do have the EcoFlow River Delta, which also supplies 10A out of the car charger port. I'm thinking that it is perhaps the NOCO 12V car port connector that may not carry enough power? Do you have any other thoughts as to why the step up converter is not working? It IS putting out 24V. Thanks for any advice!

[@Polymathicus]

I can't say for sure in your situation, but my own experience with the Mark 2 not wanting to run was a lack of current. I needed to upgrade to a 20amp model of 12-24V converter to supply enough juice to the Mark 2 to make it happy. If you're sure you're getting 24V at the plug in the back of the Mark 2, then this could be the issue. Could be that 10amp port for sure. Do you have another "out" port that can supply more amperage? With my Yeti I had to use their "Max Current Cable" which merges the output of several DC ports to get enough amps out to feed the bigger converter and in turn push out enough power to the Mark 2.

[@pjw4441]

@@Polymathicus The video does not show it well but I believe he is soldering two pins on the connector to one wire, pins 1 and 3 to one wire and pins 2 and 4 to the other. Correct me if this is wrong. May be the reason for the beeping.

[@Polymathicus]

Hi. The two wires got soldered to pins 1/3 (Pos/Neg) only. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the included AC power brick (just in case they've changed it at some point).

[@zaqstvnsn4633]

Can you explain your setup @ 9:00 & the reasoning behind it? (how you’re removing the hot air, and pulling in the fresh?) From the manual it looks like that left exhaust is the hot air? if so what is it up against, a rear vent? (Wouldn’t that just push the hot air through a connected vent back into the car?) or did you cut a hole...? And you have the other end extended and then curved back around (wrapped in something..) what & why? Most videos and even the manual just show both tubes exiting the space (through a window/hole/etc..) in parallel to eachother.. Im interested in purchasing this for use in a vehicle and trying to figure out the most effective method. Thx for the content keep it coming !! **how did you know the included inverter, or whatever, was less efficient than what you could build yourself?

[@Polymathicus]

I have both intake and exhaust ported to the outside. They are both running through the vehicles pressure relief ports in the two corners. By pressure relief ports, it's those "flappy things" that let the pressure out when someone closes a car door. They're in all vehicles, usually behind the trim somewhere, just have to find them. I used a 4" drain cover on one side and 4" metal HVAC duct on the other over the factory holes, then the Mark 2 hoses connect to that. I should probably make another video showing this as I feel I'm rambling. Other end curved around is probably a separate black duct hose I'm using for other experiments with exhaust fans. Not connected to anything. I couldn't run them both out parallel as the holes the pressure relief contraptions are in would only allow either/or because of the small size holes to the outside. This is helpful though as there's no chance to suck the hot air back in running them out different sides. Assumed the DC converter would be more efficient as it usually is running DC/DC and not DC/AC/DC, and the test in the video showed that to be the case. If you're not worried about advertising you're in there you can run them out the window. Another option is to cut a 4" hole through the vehicle floor (make sure nothing important on the other side). I did this in another vehicle to mount a fan in which drew fresh cool air in from underneath, pressurized the vehicle, and purged the hot air out a cracked window.

[@radikl_ed]

@@Polymathicus Why is it necessary to bring in air from outside? Wouldn't it drastically increase efficiency if the intake hose was pulling the already-cooled air from in the vehicle and re-cooling it instead of the exterior air?

[@theveteranrvr3732]

So, how do you think this will fare, as in maintaining coolness, on a 80 degree muggy night AFTER a vehicle or RV a/c cooled down the area? Still a personal cooler, or any additional thoughts? Thx for your earlier reply.

[@Polymathicus]

With my limited testing, and only in full sun, I'm still going to play it safe and call this a personal spot cooler. We stayed in our 24ft RV in New Orleans on an ~80 degree muggy night and our 13.5K BTU RV air conditioner ran most of the night just to keep the RV at about 75, so I just can't see something this small keeping all but the smallest car cool inside. I can however see it keeping whatever it's blowing on very comfortable with the intake and exhaust ported to the outside.

[@caseymoto]

Does the power converter need to be disconnected when charging the battery? Planning on powering an amplifier and I saw the instructions said never charge battery

[@Polymathicus]

I never disconnect to charge my Yeti or Bluetti. It stayed all hooked up in my vehicle and I would just run an extension cord out to my vehicle and plug in it's power brick overnight. Running the Mark 2 while charging the battery...I have only done that while solar panels were hooked up to my battery and there was no issue, all ran well and 200 watts of solar provided enough power to run the Mark 2 (through the battery).

[@jaimepalencia]

Thanks for thee video. I got mine a year ago and did not unbox until now, yet I can't make it work. Did you experience issues with yours at all?

[@Polymathicus]

Not with my Mark 2. Are you using their battery? Their customer support has always been responsive, might see what they advise.

[@jaimepalencia]

@@Polymathicus Well after all I been trough during this time I have not been able to connect with the support but I will. Mo I’m not using their battery. Thanks your video has helped me understand the functionality of Zero Breeze!

[@Telencephelon]

@ jtskr25 Thanks for your cool videos. I have been following you a while. Could you please tell us where to find the DC 4 pin connnector and what type it is?

[@Polymathicus]

Thank you. Here are the connectors I used. www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ673ZW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@markfrost1375]

If I can buy parts from the jetbed (blows air into/under a bed sheet…that might be the answer for spot cooling

[@drinkitydrinks4033]

The the mark 2 cable when hooking it up to the step-up connector how do you know which wire on the mark 2 cord is power and which one is ground?

[@Polymathicus]

There's a pinout diagram on the back of the included AC power supply. If I remember right they use #1/#3 (Pos/Neg) which are labeled on the plug ends also.

[@drinkitydrinks4033]

@@Polymathicus thanks for the help I figured it out. It has 4 wires but they are doubles at connector. Thanks for your help.

[@horacegreeley4060]

Does anyone know if this plug is a 12mm (GX12-4) or 16mm (GX16-4) ? Trying to get a jump on this project thanks.

[@horacegreeley4060]

Answered in another video. GX16-4. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=GX16-4&_sacat=0&_sop=15&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1 . www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=12+to+24v+up+converter+15a&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_odkw=12+to+24v+up+converter eBay: Cheaper and almost always supports a small business. Tell Bezos to Suck-It

[@mikec7860]

These are advertised to use 240 watts on ac power. Which is what mine draws. Dc to dc is going to be more efficient. But why does your ac watts seem low? Don’t think they would advertise 240 watts if they were a more efficient 160 watts on rocket mode.

[@Polymathicus]

Without re-watching that video, I'm guessing it might have been cold in the garage. The power requirements change quite a bit depending on ambient temps. 240 watts on AC in a hot car parked in the sun....for sure.

[@victorperdue7217]

So you wire them in pins 1 & 3 but which one is positive and which is negative? Like is pin 1 the positive wire and pin 3 the negative wire?

[@Polymathicus]

Hello, I believe that's the case. There is a pin diagram on the back of the included power brick charger.

[@kalebsproule2701]

How did it not see that on mine thanks

[@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell]

Any idea of how long it will run on the Yeti in "Night" mode.

[@Polymathicus]

A test I hope to run soon. I'm planning a day test this week hopefully and run it till my Yeti battery is dead. Stay tuned.

[@TheMcdrewb]

You think it will work for nite time in south Florida for VanLife??? It’s like 76-86 F at nite

[@Polymathicus]

I think if it's blowing on you at night with those temps, it would keep you comfortable (not miserable). Also needs to have hoses ported outside. If all of the above, I think so. I'm going to do a night time test video here soon. When clouds roll over while I'm using it in my vehicle during the day the outlet temp goes down quite a bit so I'm thinking with no sun to fight with, it'll work much better.

[@TheMcdrewb]

jtskr25 thxs I followed this since kickstart...I thank all those who lost their monies to get this thing to market...I think I’m gonna wait for next summer to buy something...thanks again!

[@Bellasafari]

This is exactly what I need- come on Zero breeze-they need to get with the times…make this run off of 12v power packs (solar driven) as inverting to 110v is not efficient.

[@Polymathicus]

I runs off 12v batteries via a 12-24V converter. The original air conditioner was 12V, and that was one rather large issue with it. It required twice the amps to be pushed through small gauge wires that got really hot. Run all that in a hot environment, and well, mine failed.

[@Bellasafari]

@@Polymathicus Oh yeah that makes sense. SO- atm I do not have the battery for the ZB…In order to run off my 12v power bank (Bluetti’s AC300 500ah battery/750w solar) I would need ONLY the ZB battery and their 12-24v converter? Also thinking to just get more battery/solar and run it on the 3000w inverter (110v). Ugh such a dilemma. I am tryna avoid buying the 12v AC (5000.buckaroos). What do you think? I am in a van- PRomaster 2500/well insulated. 2 pets, so I need something to top of the heat-freezing cold isn’t necessary.

[@Polymathicus]

I should mention first that the Mark 2 is only 2300BTU's, so it won't cool down a van that's in the sun at all during the day in fact it won't even hold temp if the sun is beating down on it. It will only cool down what it's blowing on right in front of it. Overnight is a different story, and some have had success blocking off parts of their vans and overinsulating the space. Your dash ac in the promaster might be something like 25,000BTU's just for comparison. You don't need any ZB batteries to run off your AC300, just a 12-24V converter that you can buy from ZB, or on Amazon, and wire it up like this video you commented on. If Amazon, get one that is rated at 20amp or higher. Then you just have to make a cable that plugs into any of the output ports of your AC300 that is rated at least 20amps. If you get more batteries/solar, I'd still run it off your batteries as the Mark 2 runs off DC power, so keeping it all DC is the most efficient, you only have to feed the Mark 2 with 24V, whether that be a 24V battery, or a 12-24V converter. I know how it is with all the options, stressful. If you can envision all the things you'll be powering a couple years down the road that might help steer the decision.

[@Bellasafari]

@@Polymathicus Thank you for the extra info-yeah brain freeze is real:()) If it were just me, I can suffer (open doors etc-but with two pets, I can’t always open doors if in the city, etc). Thank you!

[@Zylverdraggon]

I did everything you did in this video but the zero breeze gives me an error with the dc converter any idea why??

[@Polymathicus]

First would be to track down what the specific error means either online or email Zero Breeze as that might tell you quickly what's wrong. If everything is wired correctly (Pos to pin 1, and Neg to pin 3, etc), you might be having a low current issue like I had, but I'm just speculating. What is the amperage rating on your converter?

[@Glenda-rg4pj]

If you don't mind me asking, what happened to your first zero breeze?

[@caesardgreatest]

He said in another video that it just started smoking in his car and stopped working.

[@Polymathicus]

As Caesar said in the other reply, my Mark 1 was struggling on a hot day, I heard a pop, and white smoke started billowing out like a wet campfire. That was a huge problem in the Mark 1 design, the 12V system. I used the thickest gauge wire I could get into the connector, but still, everything got SO hot pushing all those amps, it was inevitable. The upgrade to 24V on the Mark 2 was a necessity....thinner gauge wire now, and still can grab a hold of all components even after running for hours in a hot car.

[@charleywaynehinkle6358]

I have a little honda crx with no ac do you think this would work as a replacement for the ac?

[@Polymathicus]

Definitely not as a replacement during the day. Since the Mark 2 only has a rated cooling capacity of 2300BTU's and a car A/C might be 10-20 thousand BTU's it just doesn't compare. But it does cool the air going through it, so if you can point the outlet at you, then you might stay comfortable as long as you stay in the air stream, which I believe this was designed primarily to do.

[@charleywaynehinkle6358]

@@Polymathicus man that sucks I'm really trying to make it bearable to drive around. Might have to just figure out some kind of ac solution.

[@charleywaynehinkle6358]

@Drakilicious yeah i used to roll the windows down when i lived in san diego but i live in cincinnati now way to humid and hot in summer. Some months are ok but summers to much. Also i love swamp coolers but they dont really work in high humidity. Which makes the term swamp cooler weird because swamps are humid. Just not enough evaporation to work well. The car is a little honda crx and im putting a much larger engine in it that has no business being in it so ac has to be removed or set up in some crazy custom way.

[@lighto999]

i plan on using this in a hot 95 degree vehicle. how hot did the 12V to 24V Boost Converter get?

[@Polymathicus]

I first had a 15amp converter and that got HOT. When I switched to the 20amp version, not nearly as hot. I could touch it in a 105 degree vehicle while it was running the Mark 2. It was hot but not melt down hot. Would run the Mark 2 all day.

[@joelflora2252]

can you configure this setup without Soldering?

[@Polymathicus]

I think Zero Breeze sells a DIY cord with the Mark 2 end attached already (last I checked). They also sell a 12-24V converter with bare ends. But then you'll have to wire and connect ends to attach to your own power supply which may need specific crimpers depending on what kind of plugs you're needing. But can definitely get away with no solder.

[@Evan721sxm]

Pin 1 is positive and pin 3 is negative?

[@Polymathicus]

Mine is like that. But always check the back of the AC power brick where there's a pinout diagram just in case something has changed. Or use a multimeter on the factory cable end when powered and make sure red is in pos and black is in neg, and the screen doesn't show a "-"

[@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell]

Do you remember which pin is which?

[@Polymathicus]

I think 1 is positive and 3 is negative. There is also a wiring diagram on the back of the included ac adapter.

[@SVEverydaysailor]

How is she doing now?

[@Polymathicus]

Still running strong. No longer work out of my vehicle so I don't use every day, but I pull it out occasionally.

[@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell]

hmm mine even testing indoor hasn't dropped below 53F

[@Polymathicus]

What is the ambient temperature of the air you're cooling?

[@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell]

@@Polymathicus 73f

[@snowboarderZ316]

Can you repair these ac units?

[@Polymathicus]

I don't know the official answer to that question, but I imagine the Mark 2 was not designed to have the refrigeration components serviced by the end user or service tech, but I could be wrong. A question for Zero Breeze for sure.

[@tradmanmike3360]

WHAT STRIKES ME IS, THEY MAKE THIS MARK2, KNOWING IT NEEDS THE BOOST CONVERTER BUT DO NOT SUPPLY IT! THAT IS LIKE A CAR COMPANY SELLING A CAR BUT DO NOT INCLUDE TIRES, WHEELS OR BATTERY! MAKES ZERO BUSINESS SENSE!