ZInc Plating Hardware with Caswell Electroplating Copy Cad Zinc Plating Kit

[@jasmith001]

Fantastic tutorial on plating. I've watched multiple videos to prepare for my own plating setup and yours was the most detailed and thorough (and helpful) by far. Thank you for taking the time to document everything so clearly.

[@jockellis]

And the great camera work and angles.

[@tartantriumph]

Love how thorough you are in this video. This is certainly the most comprehensive and professional video I have watched on Zinc Plating so far.

[@AaronBelknap]

What a great tutorial! I'm a safety 3rd kind of guy so my wife probably wont let me do this..... I do appreciate the safety gear you show. I just don't have room at the moment to do such a thing yet! Great video!!!

[@user-ue7mw7hg7n]

I came here for the electroplating, stayed for the most mesmerising human being I've ever seen and I'm now leaving a better person having experienced both.

[@tommarkstrom4420]

Great job with this presentation. I’m currently restoring my old 1950 Dodge Power Wagon. Fortunately, most of my original fasteners are in restorable condition and I was careful to group and label them in plastic food containers as I disassembled the truck several years ago. Many of the original fasteners and details are either not available or are $pendy to replace so this process will pay for itself in this one project. Thank you.

[@ldservicesltd595]

A great summary of the plating process - I would recommend rectangular buckets as they give much more flexibility to distribute multiple anodes to suit the shape of your workpiece. These small round buckets can cause hot-spots on larger items, as the anode is too close to the workpiece, and the heaters are taking a significant % of the usable space.

[@ericp.9497]

A. This was incredibly educational and informative. Thank you! B. It was like watching a safe and comforting version of "Breaking Bad"

[@blessedbonesautogarage3167]

Guy is amazing. I just received my Kit from Caswell Plating but still need the heaters and power supply. Thanks for this video my friend!!!

[@Rob_77]

Agreed with everyone else, simply the best video out there on how to correctly do things.

[@comfort_in_discomfort]

Really well done. I did a very poor-man diy job and it worked for my purpose, but your setup and result are correspondingly awesome.

[@ghostrider511000]

as an ex electro plater the way we cleaned the metal prior to plating was to go through the degreaser - rinse, then through a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid for as long as it took to remove any rust(if it was really rusty go over it with a wire brush as it was soaking in the acid) when it was clean rinse again then straight into the plating solution.

[@dainius4168]

Thats some sweet plating setup you have there!

[@yananRamirez]

Wow ,you are so amazing in this "setup", some people could be more poorly prepared in comparison of your level...nice !, i have a toyota land cruiser old 1980, thinking about those work on it...thanks!

[@Dundertaker1]

Just finished my bench...copied yours. Really appreciate the info.

[@elmandracula]

Excellent presentation and very nice and clean set-up! But from my side, I'm living in Europe, the regulation is mentioning very clear that is totally forbidden to use the hexavalent chromium, so it cannot be used. But your tutorial still helps. Thanks

[@compulsivediy8036]

Thanks for watching. There is a zinc passivation system available that uses trivalent chromium salts. Trivalent chromium salts are less toxic and not as strictly regulated. Trace chromium that is present in the human body in enzymes is in trivalent state. Caswell Electroplating (the vendor from whom I bought the chemicals used in this video) has a branch in the UK where they used to sell a zinc plating kit with trivalent chromium salts. I read some comments from Europeans who have used trivalent chromium zinc passivation who were satisfied with their results. I think it takes longer and the process is more temperature sensitive than sodium chromate (VI). I got a sense that blue chromate was the easiest to get good results with trivalent kits. Below is the link to Caswell's UK site where they sell zinc plating kits with trivalent chromate passivation. Today it says that the kit is sold out? www.caswelleurope.co.uk/zinc-plating-kit/ (Disclosure - I have no interest in Caswell Plating they are just the only hobby plating vendor we have in the USA and their literature is good)

[@joem6859]

That was a really good demo, video. You take your PPE very seriously, I applaud you. Really like how you organized your setup as well. I have an old car i'm restoring and I can't find any platers within a 2.5/3 hour drive radius. Looking at all my options.

[@tonyalto1014]

Excellent video! I like your setup. I'm going to copy it for my copycad plating station.

[@stevep1641]

Man that is awesome what you have done. I am in the middle of building a dirtbike and would love to use that yellow chromate on all my bolts.

[@markyoungoutdoors2497]

Excellent video, phenomenal explanation of your setup and procedure.🎉👏👌

[@briancox5700]

Fantastic tutorial ! Could you please post links to episodes 1 & 2 ? I've invested in this system & a bench, much like yours including the heaters. Tomorrow morning, going to test. Thank you again for taking the time to video !!

[@VegasFlyboy]

FANTASTIC video! But please work on your audio mixing/levels between the parts where you're in front of the camera, and the parts where you've mixed in narration. I find myself continually turning my volume up and down. A cheap USB condenser microphone with a pop filter attached would help the narrated bits sound miles better. Then just work on normalizing the volume levels, and job done! :) Thanks again for some GREAT info! :)

[@toddfedde275]

Loved your video, im a newbie and have not yet done my first batch. my only question is nobody mentions about the voltage ? i have bought a cheaper 110 V DC machine, but i under stand what Amperage but what should the volage be set at ? thanks

[@JTSCUSTOMS]

I have been running into issues and found it best to just order a brand new copy cad/zinc kit and feel it is my prep that may be the problem! Can you give me your process for prep of a old rusty, greasy bolt? I initially had good luck just wire wheeling parts and bolts to a clean shinny condition then into the degreaser bath. After the 15 or so minutes I rinsed, dipped into 5% acid solution, rinsed, into the plating bath, rinsed, back to the acid 3 seconds , rinsed, then into chromate 10-15 seconds, then rinsed and dried. This worked for a few projects but after storing the kit for a few months I started to plate again and everything went south! The process was identical but after the parts sat drying overnight they began to pop and peel! Oh my gosh what a mess and the sound of the popping was just so interesting? I have a bead blaster and can soak the parts in full strength mutatic acid but it was not needed for my previous batches? I watch you video as a reference and feel it is the best out there but need a step by step prep process. Thank you for the video and any help you can provide me.

[@compulsivediy8036]

Wash in degreaser, then mediablast in cabinet with 36 grit aluminum oxide, then shine with 8" wheel on a grinder. I found that media-blasting is needed and it requires a cabinet and a large compressor. Much of the cost of doing this is in prep equipment.

[@mumtazahmad4619]

Fantastic video. Can you make a video on zinc nickel alloy plating (acidic) process?

[@steelcantuna]

You remind me so much of Peter Lorre, the movie star of the 1940's.

[@compulsivediy8036]

We are from the same ethnic group. If I remember correctly when Lorre was a young jewish boy in Hungary his name was Laslo Lowenstein.

[@Fosgen]

After plating, install, brush bolts and nuts with wax mix. 10 parts petrol, 3 parts paraffin wax. Heat it up before use, in hot water bath. Great protection against water.

[@steelcantuna]

You remind me of Peter Lorre. I just don't understand why my girlfriend doesn't want to watch videos like this with me.

[@MrAmf4me]

Great video, watched several times, can you tell me the acid strength

[@compulsivediy8036]

It is 5% Hydrochloric acid, a weak solution. Muriatic Acid sold at home centers and swimming pool suppliers is 35% HCl. There are many online dilution calculators

[@4444johnnyboy4444]

Awesome video! However, I’ve been struggling to get the plating results come out as a smooth chrome finish and not matte and dull/chalky as some OEM style German automotive hardware. It wasn’t until I added up to the WHOLE bottle of zinc brightener where I started to notice satisfactory results. Do you have any information regarding how to achieve a bright and smooth zinc plating result?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Surface Prep, Surface Prep, it will add hours, sandblasting with multiple grits, sanding polishing etc. Zinc is very thin. With Nickel and Chrome they deposit a thick layer that they polish after, With zinc it is all part prep.

[@Jaysqualityparts]

Most informative on YT.

[@lucassanabria]

Hi! What is the type of zinc plating solution do you use? Amazing work!

[@compulsivediy8036]

It is a commercial product from Caswell Plating, the exact formula is a Caswell trade secret especially the brightner that adds shine. It lasts forever, it is not really consumed, except for the "brightener" that is a trade secret but it not expensive and is used by the teaspoon. The secret brightner is likely an organic polymer. (Starch-like stuff) Caswell Zink bath part A and B is a proprietary form of well known acidic, Cyanide-Free zinc plating bath. It usually contains: Zinc chloride, ammonium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium benzoate and surfactants. pH is adjusted to 5.5 with hydrochloric acid. (Which I have to add a little as pH drifts up) There is a lot of ingredients, so Caswell proprietary formula is convenient for a hobbyist. It is like making you own Mayonnaise, you can do it; but the recipe is complex and you will have a gallon of leftover egg whites.

[@paulreid3273]

Great video and details. One question you mention muriatic acid rinse, but your bucket says HCL which is hydrochloric acid. What is it?

[@compulsivediy8036]

In the US somewhat diluted hydrochloric acid is sold as muriatic acid. I use an online dilution calculator to further dilute it. In theory they are the same, however some “safer” muriatic acid products on the market now have oily additives and those products cannot be used for plating. I noticed recently that all of the muriatic acid at my local home depot had these additives.

[@nickmandliya7742]

Dear sir, Your video is awesome. It gives practical knowledge about the processes. Thanks for sharing the video with us. But now I had a question, why you did zinc plating before yellow chromate on? Are we able to do yellow chromation on stainless steel fasteners? One more question is whether the process of yellow chromation is same for aluminum and steel. Are we able to yellow chromate and assembly consist of aluminum and stainless steel fasteners?? Please clarify the above doubts. Thanks in advanced..

[@compulsivediy8036]

Zinc Plating is a sacrificial rust protection layer on regular carbon steel (also called mild steel). Zinc is more chemically active and it oxidizes (rusts away) first when exposed to the environment. Zinc plate will oxidize away at a rate that depends on environment. For harsh outside environments "hot dip galvanizing" is used. Steel that is being galvanized is dipped in molten zinc metal. That applies a thick layer of zinc that lasts for long time outside. This is a galvanizing video kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6ubaIRmf8qXfZY Zinc easily dissolves in weak acid. Thin zinc plating will dissolve in tomato juice. Chromate is used to increase acid resistance of thin zinc plate. It looks good but it is done for acid resistance, not for appearance. All of the other electroplating processes are used for appearance. For example chrome plating, nickel plating and, of course, gold plating, are done to make parts look a certain way. It is possible to chrome plate as a small hobby but it is expensive and complicated. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWq1iZaqgb9riNU Stainless steel is not usually zinc plated or chromated. Stainless steel contains a lot of chromium! For example 304 stainless steel, used in cooking pots, contains 15 to 20% chromium, that provides rust resistance and other properties. Aluminum parts can be protected from aluminum corrosion by a chromate conversion process. In this process aluminum itself reacts with chromate salts, ( there is no zinc and no electricity). This prevents aluminum corrosion and promotes paint adhesion. It is mostly used on airplane parts. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2StlmVmd7ZprZo Thanks for watching!

[@JTSCUSTOMS]

Hi. I am new to zinc and chromate plating and love your detail. Expect the Caswell kit in two days. I have tumbled a number of bolts to plate and wonder if they still have plating on them. They are so light-dull and look so good I would use them "as is" but don't want to have rust develop right away?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Zinc will dissolve rapidly in hydrochloric (muriatic) acid when you are prepping your parts before plating.

[@panoslitestout9199]

great work,what did i did wrong and i have black spots

[@compulsivediy8036]

It is all in the prep sandblasting and sometimes vibratory tumbling take time and effort but a good shiny polished prep is critical. Sometimes the bath can get contaminated with other metals. I usually prep a scrap piece of hardware and plate it first by itself to get all of the contaminants onto it.

[@Dundertaker1]

Mine is coming out very flat. I’ve glass bead blasted per the manual...should I polish them before plating??? The way the manual reads they suggested that.

[@compulsivediy8036]

Yes, I buff them on a brass brush wheel till shine, before plating. It goes fast on bench grinder. Like many other projects it is pre prep prep for good results. The dull look is the simulated antique cadmium plate look, that some restorers need. They get it by dulling with blasting or fiberglass brushes.

[@Dundertaker1]

I did not add any brightener based on some comments on the forum..so 100% correct...that’s what I ended up with. Added brighter and it matches new hardware now.

[@transfercasesolutions8666]

Hello, have you set up the black chromate? If yes, does the "prep" process of being extra shiny before zinc plating still required? Or could media blasted parts be zinc plated, followed by black chromate. Giving desired results?

[@BrokenSmokinSpokes]

What did you use to make the holes in your benchtop?

[@MIEDEPAIN20011]

Hi . Trying this process at home too and I have some problems with the yellow/gold passivate . Doesn’t hold on very well on the parts , I don’t understand . Do I need to heated the passivate ? I say that because when I wanted to zinc plated my rear brake calipers , I noticed if I don’t heated the electrolyte , it didn’t work . Thanks in advance for advice .

[@compulsivediy8036]

Are you using hexavalent (sodium chromate) or trivalent (chromium III oxide). This may depend on what is available to buy in your country. Hexavalent chromium is toxic and highly regulated. It is easier to use at lower temperature and that is what I use in this video. Hexavalent chromium is still available here in USA but, I believe, it is now illegal to sell it in the EU and many other countries. Trivalent chromium is harder to use, but industry is switching to it for environmental reasons and worker protection. I have no experience with trivalent chromium but I read that it is applied at 60 degrees C and takes longer. Also trivalent colors are different.

[@MIEDEPAIN20011]

Compulsive DIY Thanks for your reply . I use Trivalent , but I think i’ve understood , it need a lot of drying .

[@kareemomar3016]

I had hoped u would tell us the chemical composition of the zinc plating solution and the chromate solution

[@compulsivediy8036]

I can't I buy a proprietary product. This is basically a product used as directed review.

[@cramersclassics]

Very well done! What do you think your total set-up cost was?

[@mrmidnight32]

0.34a @ 0.8v for those wondering.

[@scottunderwood5868]

Are you still set up for doing this, I need the goose neck on my bmx bike done, is this something you could do for me?

[@MrJak427]

@CompulsiveDIY How come you’re using hydrochloric acid bath??? My caswell instructions have no mention of this?? Are you just trying to get an etched surface for better adhesion??? What ratio do yo use for it?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Caswell does mention hydrochloric acid to "activate the surface". Caswell also says that castings (they call pot metal) do well with longer soaks in more concentrated HCl.

[@blessedbonesautogarage3167]

Wait but where are Episodes 1 and 2? I do not see it on the channel's list of videos.

[@briancox5700]

Im looking for 1 & 2 also, can't find them. Wish he would post links. Fantastic tutorial, thank you!

[@varanusone1]

Great information thank you. I’m an Australian viewer struggling to find a suitable submersible heater for the degreasing process. What you have and use looks perfect. Can you advise where on line I can purchase. I’d have to step down from 220v to 110v as I’m guessing it’s a USA bland. Keep up the great channel.

[@compulsivediy8036]

I cannot find the lay supply business where I bought my heaters but they are available on US Amazon here. (link below) I do suggest doing degreasing in an old stainless cooking pot (from a second hand thrift store) on a hot plate. It is cheap, the hot plate is adjustable and does not take up room inside the pot. www.amazon.com/Immersion-Overheating-Prevention-Adjustable-Thermostat/dp/B08HS2DQZD/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_w=Hrznv&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=4AN0FYVKTJ5TGXXMX2DW&pd_rd_wg=lTfEl&pd_rd_r=9d7e9bb3-0db4-49dc-8ab5-086069a3536d&pd_rd_i=B08HS2DQZD&psc=1

[@maxlacugnato442]

What pump and filter setup are you using...a link to products used would be great

[@compulsivediy8036]

angelsplus.com/products/pump-sen-submersible-water-pumps Something like this, a cheap submersible small fish tank pump.

[@GraeSkyeStudio]

Really enjoyed the Tutorial... A couple of questions resulted. What is your mix for the Muratic acid? Do you have a degreaser you recommend? (Simple green?) What is the percentage for it as well?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Muriartic acid is diluted with distilled water to a 5% concentration using a kitchen measuring cup and an online dilution calculator. I buy the SP degreaser from Caswell plating. The composition is a a trade secret but I suspect it is TSP that is sold for paint prep in paint stores. Caswell secret mix has 2 ingredients on the MSDS sheet in 80-20 ratio. TSP in paint store is an 80-20 mix of trisodium phosphate and sodium carbonate. A soapy bubbly product can be hard to rinse off and it will cause bare areas like oil contamination does.

[@GraeSkyeStudio]

Compulsive DIY thanks so much for the added info.

[@DRIZCOL]

What are you using as a degreaser?

[@tristanbowen2691]

why were you dipping the pieces in hcl bucket again before applying the yellow chromate?

[@compulsivediy8036]

The instructions for my chromate said to do it to “Activate the surface”

[@whatupg1]

Many thanks for the video. Can you please tell me what solution is in the zinc bath? I have heard white vinegar and epsom salts works well?

[@compulsivediy8036]

In this video I use a commercially available product sold by Caswell plaiting. It is a mixture of zinc chloride, potassium chloride and ammonium chloride, it also has a secret ingredient that Caswell refuses to disclose that is just listed as non-toxic on the MSDS form.

[@crislaureljr.733]

Sir im from the Philippines and please do teach me how to chrome plating, I want to learn sir! Happy New Year thank you

[@joaofragata1825]

Hi I´m alsow zinc plating myself , but i´ve seen your video and i would like to ask you a question. In my Zinc Tank , the Zinc is getting darker, and it is starting to contaminate the solution, do you have any advice in what i can do when i finish ( cleaning the zinc or something) and filtring the solution so next time it is not as dark?? Thanks a lot

[@compulsivediy8036]

I remove the sink anodes at end of the day rinse them and clean them with scotch-bright pad (mild abrasive pad). I store zinc anodes clean and dry between use.

[@sgtjoe2008]

"some people have bucket lists and some just have buckets" _compulsive diy_

[@MrAmf4me]

Did you add brightener ?

[@PatHaskell]

Sounds like Dr Evil in his bubble suit.

[@EasterlyWind]

Awesome video .I use the same kit as you and lost my instruction how to make up my yellow chromate solution. It says Dilute 2.25% but with what ?Water or acid? It has a little. 50Ml bottle of Nitric acid there

[@compulsivediy8036]

Caswell’s yellow chromate that they sell in USA is a liquid concentrate. Directions are 1oz of yellow chromate mix into 1 gallon of distilled water. This concentrate Is chromic acid 17% , sodium dichromate 17%, nitric acid 14% sulfuric acid 3% in distilled water. The percentages are by weight.

[@mforse2]

Can you make a copper basket instead of putting a wire on each bolt?

[@timleonard86]

How would you prep an aluminum carburetor

[@kzem968]

About how long do you hit the parts with the heat gun and how long until the parts are completely dry and the chromate hardened on the parts? The first few times I have tried this the chromate wiped off after hanging for 24 hours. I used a fan as the directions say but I did not use a heat gun on the parts for drying. Maybe the parts need the heat for the chromate to secure completely to the zinc? thanks

[@compulsivediy8036]

I think hexavalent chromate reacts with zinc in seconds but divalent chromate used in Europe takes a longer time in solution.

[@garrettschlegel5653]

Great video. Very detailed. I just ordered my kit from Caswell. Can you continue re-use the copper wire after its gone through a plating session?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Yes, I reuse the copper wires, it does not seem to degrade the solution.

[@Sir_knight_trooper]

can you do this with say... lether attached to the metal and can the chemicals be reused multiple times??

[@compulsivediy8036]

No this is only for clean mild steel. This is a corrosion protection method. Yellow chromate looks fun but black and grey are just as good for corrosion protection and completely bland.

[@bhgeurts1]

Great tutorial. Truly appreciate your attention to detail. What size kit did you purchase from Caswell? How big is your degreaser pot?

[@compulsivediy8036]

I started with a 1.5 Gallon for bolts and nuts but, I since doubled it to 3 US gallons as I now try to plate brake calipers

[@TheCooperville]

Very good video subbed!

[@mediumperformance8263]

Great video. What type of power supply are you using?

[@compulsivediy8036]

It has to be an adjustable current power supply. Current settings (not voltage) is set during plating. For a dozen bolts you can use a 10 Amp supply but if you start doing larger parts (like brake calipers) you will need 20 Amps so if larger parts are in your future you are better off buying a larger power supply up front. Also if you considering anodizing Aluminum you will also need more amps. I use an $130 ebay lab power supply rated to 20A. A 10A unit costs half of that. These cheap Chinese lab power supplies are OK for the plating lab where you are at risk of ruining it by spilling electrolyte into it. (yes it happened to me)

[@justinmacadam3924]

Great tutorial, I live in the UK and bought a kit from a company called "Classic Plating" good kit but not quite the same, much easier to use, What size is your beast of a power supply?

[@compulsivediy8036]

20 Amp, I since damaged my power supply in a solution spill. I recommend putting it on a shelf above the plating tank to protect from spills.

[@edluna5224]

Why do you parts come out of the plating tank shiny? I am using the same Caswell Copy Cad/Zinc kit and my parts come out of the plating tank a dull gray color. Did you add brightener to the plating tank and if so, how much?

[@compulsivediy8036]

I use a teaspoon of brightner. It is all in prep. Sandblasted parts come out dull. Parts buffed with brass wheel such as the ones in video come out with more shine.

[@edluna5224]

@@compulsivediy8036 And how often do you replenish the brightener? Also, I agree that sand blasted parts come out dull but do they come out looking like they've been painted with gray primer, because that's how my parts come out. I can get them to shine by polishing with fine steel wool prior to yellow chromate but I'd rather have them come out of the plating tank looking bright and shiny like yours.

[@mc2594]

can I ask you a question please: why do small quantity home platers get left with a grey deposit on their zinc plated parts? and then set about removing it? obviously a large plating company also brings the parts out with the full shine as you did at 19:50 but what makes the difference? also is it possible to Zinc plate diecast Mazak / Zamak? (zinc, aluminium, copper mix) - seeing as zinc is present in the metal being zinc plated?

[@compulsivediy8036]

I am not an expert just a hobbyist. I read that many problems are caused by poor steel preparation, especially black spots. Dark grey is caused by too high current. Many home platers use battery chargers and do nor have great control of current. Solution contamination is a big problem. You can plate a sacrificial part to get all the contaminates onto it before your good parts. I do not know much about Zamac.

[@mc2594]

@@compulsivediy8036 - ok thanks .. Zamak/Mazak is what injection moulded Diecast Toys are made of - Hot Wheels used a transparent paint on plated castings in the 1960's which restorers try to replicate and effectively produce the opposite of a reflective surface but seem to find one under a coating of surface deposits after physically polishing it off. They looked similar to Anodised plating colours. Yours was the only actual zinc plated finish I could find as opposed to the 'surface deposit polished off' variety which a factory producing parts in large numbers obviously wouldn't have done. It's hard to say if Hot Wheels were plated for a mirror finish or a metallic grain though, maybe both, the reason they did it is clear, because Zamac is multimetal and this can still be clearly seen in a plain casting - hence the need for a even toned finish before transparent paint is applied. hotwheels.fandom.com/wiki/Spectraflame

[@driftking647]

Thanks for this perfect video you helped me out a lot

[@mrgcav]

Could you please post links to episodes 1 & 2

[@johnjohnson9918]

Learned a lot, thanks

[@CarlosDelaoGunEngraver]

where did you buy the heaters?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Industrial heating supply inc www.industrialelectricheating.com They are great but expensive with very accurate thermostats for repeatable operation. They will hold consistent temps from slightly warm to rolling boil. If you are degreasing in a stainless pot you can put it on a cheap hot plate. Having hot water in a plastic bucket that becomes visibly softer at near boiling temperature can feel a little unsafe even though the bucket should theoretically handle it. Second hand stores always have cheap stainless pots. The plating tank can be heated with a cheap fish tank heater because it does not need very hot temperature.

[@florinsoltan]

great job, well done!

[@justinmacadam3924]

Hello again, I have the option to buy some "Brick cleaner" which is industrial strength and contains Hydrochloric Acid, is this suitable for the acid dip, if so what would the strength need to be mixed with water to?

[@compulsivediy8036]

The product I buy is labeled as Muriatic (hydrochoric) acid for concrete cleaning and removal of cement residue from brick. It is sold here in 31.5% water solution by weight. I dilute it with distilled water to a 5% concentration by volume using a kitchen measuring cup and an online dilution calculator. 5% is recommenced by the maker of the plating kit.

[@المهندسمصطفىمعراوي]

Hi ; good video but what kind of zinc plating ? Acid or cyanid or alkalin ?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Plating bath is Potassium Chloride, Ammonium Chloride, and Zinc Chloride. There is more potassium chloride than zinc chloride in the mix. I buy a proprietary mix from Caswell company so I do not know exact proportions. PH is adjusted to 5.5 with small amount of hydrochloric acid.

[@coryknipe5471]

Excellent video. I have a full setup myself from Caswell and built some fancy electronics for temperature control. I noticed you were doing an acid dip before using the yellow chromate. What concentrate are you using? It seems some are acid dipping and some are not. Keep up the good work.

[@compulsivediy8036]

It is the same 5% muriatic acid that is used as a pickle before the plate tank. I saw someone do it, apparently you get a brighter yellow chromate if you do a quick acid dip before chromate bur it has to be fast because zinc dissolves rapidly in acid.

[@janmarsh]

Many thanks.

[@TL-ds8ux]

Can you post a link to your prep video? I cannot seem to find it.

[@compulsivediy8036]

I was probably talking about this one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJ6yZ3eHhrKDpLM These days I media blast in a cabinet and then buff with brass wire wheel on a bench grinder. Brass wheel makes it shiny which is needed for shiny zinc plate.

[@davesusek3330]

Great video thank you

[@AgeDee34]

Do you blink?

[@absolute___zero]

3:14 a word about responsible chemical disposal. You can grab all your chemicals and throw them into hydrochloric acid (or aqua regia if you are serious about the environment) and once it is all dissolved you go to the sea (or ocean near by) and throw it all there, preferably away from the beach. If there is 4.5 billion tons of uranium in sea water already, your waste isn't going to make the water more polluted than it is right now.

[@Indiansports421]

Can u tell me sir how to make phosphating chemicals?

[@compulsivediy8036]

I buy mine from a company that keeps formula partly secret, I get powder in a bag this guy kzbin.info/www/bejne/fV6zpaGtqbSFaJY does it all himself with good results.

[@Indiansports421]

@@compulsivediy8036 i am not talking about plating, i am talking about phosphate conversion coating by dipping process.

[@compulsivediy8036]

@@Indiansports421 There is a process for coating steel with zinc phosphate. This is done by dipping in a solution of zinc phosphate, phosphoric acid and nitric acid. I have never done this and do not have a formula for a solution. I read that when iron dissolves in phosphoric acid and Zinc ions are present in that solution, zinc phosphate precipitates on the surface of the steel that is being exposed to phosphoric acid. Another acid, I believe usually nitric, is used to control the speed of the process and grain size and texture of the coating. The grainy zinc phosphate surface helps to hold oil and helps oil stay on the surface which is good for lubrication and corrosion protection. The process is easier than electroplating, but still, I am sure, meticulous prep is needed and I suspect they probably dip in acid to "activate" the surface first. The corrosive solution has to be heated safely. I read that is done more ofter in stainless steel tanks (not plastic) but I don't know the temperatures. After zinc phosphate grains coat the steel it is soaked in oil and these parts stay oily inside their machines forever. There is a vey similar process done with Manganese Phosphate on guns. The only difference is substitution of Manganese phosphate for Zinc phosphate. In the United States this is called Parkerizing because a company called Parker was selling chemicals for this in the past. I believe Manganese produces a darker color that is preferred on guns. There are a lot of "Parkerizing" videos on KZbin.

[@Indiansports421]

@@compulsivediy8036 you are explaining theory this is not actual formulation I tried solution of zinc phosphate, phasphoric acid & nitric acid it's not working.

[@compulsivediy8036]

@@Indiansports421 Sorry, I have had many failures and know what it feels like. Here in the US there is one guy who sells Zinc Phosphating solution is small DIY quantity. www.palmettoenterprisesparkerizing.com I am sure his formula is a secret.

[@simolyim5616]

Thank you so much.

[@Nesquick-gx7df]

Now that’s neat! Can you get red ?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Colors are limited by available chromium salts that react with zinc, so shades of yellow green and shades of grey black. In many countries hexavalent chromium is illegal so they have fewer options.

[@endeavour2127]

Excellent video!!!

[@timshadys]

what mask do u use

[@philflip1963]

Cool, thanks.

[@duranhvac]

Can I send you my fasteners & other parts so you can do the chromate for me.

[@compulsivediy8036]

Sorry, can’t help you for various reasons. I think this youtuber kzbin.info/www/bejne/jH_Lh6iHqtCsetU does this for a living.

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍

[@Gallaghers1232]

What Temp scale are you using? C or F?

[@compulsivediy8036]

These are Fahrenheit temps.

[@preferredcustomer2311]

Any chance you would be willing to coat a parts for me? I have a 78 Datsun and need some parts done and I really dont want to do it myself... If interested I could send a photo of the parts and you telling me how much it would cost?? Thanks you.. Terry

[@compulsivediy8036]

I cannot do it Terry due to demands of my day job these days but check out this guy, he is a pro kzbin.info/www/bejne/jH_Lh6iHqtCsetU

[@stuartcookie133]

Robots never blink...True

[@muhammadrubaietshattik1296]

I am guessing the temp. units are in Fahrenheit?

[@compulsivediy8036]

Yes

[@jester1650]

This is definitely OCD but for some strange reason I dig it

[@Dundertaker1]

Love it

[@rafirafal]

What is the composition of the cadmium bath?

[@compulsivediy8036]

There is no cadmium. This is zinc Plating with zinc anodes in zinc chloride bath. If you zinc plate dull looking steel it will look like old cadmium plate. It has to be sand blasted or dulled with a fiberglass brush. Cadmium is too toxic and no longe available.

[@davidnelson6893]

WOW COOL

[@franciscoromero1581]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@balavannan20]

can it be done on titanium?

[@compulsivediy8036]

No, this is rust prevention for mild steel. Titanium can be anodized like aluminum or it can be titanium nitride coated in vacuum to black gold or rainbow color.

[@edmundmayeaux3269]

All have to do is bead plastic instead of degrees or use lacquer thiner