Zone Damper Actuator Diagnostic and Replacement. EP64

Found a bad zone damper actuator motor. I went ahead and changed it out. Also I explain how the zone controllers work and how to diagnose issues with Honeywell zoning systems.
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[@SoAvidTraveler]

Finally a video showing how to hand open the damper. Many thanks!!

[@brymac8904]

Thanks man you swayed me some money here. I didn’t have the cash for a real technician such as yourself right now but I was able to get everything up and running again with this video and the included instructions for my particular system where it’s the same but backwards due to a little different model of controller. I’ll get a real tech to look it over when I have a chance but good on you man. I appreciate it.

[@LowOnCash]

great stuff thanks

[@sixtofigueroa499]

Learned a bunch thanks. I would suggest cinching down the insulation around the damper after work is completed 😊

[@josephmoxley5792]

Love those attics😌

[@wassimel-hassan960]

Thank you. You saved us

[@justwork_hvac]

Great video brother 🤘💯🌎

[@AlmaCole]

Very helpful. Thank you

[@scramick]

Great video! One of my dampers would not open when called for cooling. Pulled the motor off and noticed I could not hand turn the damper/rod. It was very difficult to turn, so I sprayed some WD40 on the rod, and now it spins freely by hand. Now a month later, the damper is not opening again. The damper rod is tough again to turn. Appears the damper itself has failed. Have you ever seen this? Thanks!

[@SoutheastHVAC]

Love your videos man!

[@juancastillo1226]

Men you are the best

[@klausplathan7760]

Thank you for this video! You made it easier for me to understand this. I have a question . Im hoping you can relay some info on it: I have a 2 zone Honeywell damper. The one accutator is loose and constantly open. (Upstairs) the second one is stuck in middle and no airflow for the downstairs…. Are they both dead or can i fix the springs inside? Thank u

[@manhpham8052]

Thank you sir, ur video just bail me out lol😂😂😂

[@soundgineering4771]

I think M1 is Common and M6 +24V. Well as long as you have them wired correctly at the zone board side. You can check which wire is common and +24V using a voltmeter by checking first both wires at the meter and then one with the meter and one to the ground.

[@WetPets-gl2ts]

Is AC voltage, not DC voltage, there is no '+' sign in alternate current, just 24vac.

[@TheSquirrelMommy]

Hi Nighthawk - for idiots like myself, it would be great if you could show the screw that you adjusted to get the damper position to "0". I'm sure this was extremely difficult to do one-handed, and you did a fantastic job! Could you just send me a response on here and let me know what screw needed to be adjusted? Was this the screw that the motor mounts to that you were explaining needed to be aligned to the "closed" position before installing? So, did you have to take the motor completely off and then turn that mounting screw even more clockwise?

[@TheSquirrelMommy]

Actually, after watching your video again, I realize what you did. I guess re-watching it was the key! ;-) Thank you so much for the excellent video!

[@Hvacnc]

Is there an indicator on the shaft part of the damper assembly that tells u if it’s open or close b4 u put the new one on? Like the shaft of a blower motor has a smooth side… is it like thay

[@NighthawkHVAC]

Nope. You just have to wing it. Sometimes I’ll just drill a hole in the damper assembly so I can see if it open or closed. Then I draw a line on the end of the shaft. If you’re lucky someone else marked it for you.

[@DanRonin05]

What about an electrical issue with the actuator? Can you measure the resistance across the two wires?

[@NighthawkHVAC]

Absolutely. However, the actual specifications are not listed on the actuator.

[@wanelly]

Good job. But did you forget "clothing" that section of the duct?

[@Summerlover-d6d]

We replaced our actuator but now the air won't shut off & stays in the open position. It won't close. Could the problem be the mother board?

[@NighthawkHVAC]

Possibly. When you turn off that zone you should be getting 24v to the damper for that zone. If not probably a bad zone controller. Assuming it’s a powered close system.

[@chadfarmer6420]

What would be the issue leaving it open by unwiring it? That way you wouldn’t have to replace it

[@NighthawkHVAC]

If I just left it disconnected The zone would always be on. The thermostat in that zone would not be able to stop the cooling or heating if another zone is calling. Replacing the actuator is the only way to maintain proper cooling and heating in a zoned system.

[@chadfarmer6420]

Reason I ask is because I have one that is out that leads to my girls bedrooms. There is no thermostat in those rooms. Could I leave them open with no issue?

[@NighthawkHVAC]

You can but air will flow when ever a zone is called for. It might overheat or over cool that room. Best option would be to find the thermostat that controls that room. Installed a remote temperature sensor. ( if the thermostat has this option otherwise the thermostat would need to be replaced as well) Replace the actuator. Disabling that zone is usually done as a temporary fix as there will always be airflow to that room even if that zone is not calling. Hope this helps.

[@kngjoea3743]

...or you could just leave it disconnected and turn the ac/heater on and off manually like everyone on the planet used to do when it got to hot or to cold. Technology is expensive and a repair tech is even more expensive. You can also close the vents in rooms your not using, or adjust the airflow at the vent .

[@anwarjaffery8147]

@@kngjoea3743😅

[@infiniteuniverse123]

Anyone notice the face looking at the motor?

[@zacharymossman3593]

video starts at 2:40 before that its all useless rambling. your welcome