ZX7R Engine Overhaul - Ep6 | ZX7R Restoration | Tom's Workshop

I'm waiting for parts for the forks and wheels so I've started the engine overhaul. It's uncharted territory this for me!
In this episode, I'm stripping the top end ready for inspection.
Subscribe to follow the progress!

[@theogridog]

This is what KZbin is all about, following your progress is very entertaining and well presented, well done.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

This just awesome in every way. I still haven't crossed the threshold of bottom end work but I remember the first time I took a cylinder head off - I was 15 (1979) and the piston & rings were shot on the 1974 DT100 I just bought for $100 (saved up all summer). I wasn't at all terrified simply because of pure ignorance. I had no idea what I was doing and I did a lot of things that would be ridiculed all over social media had it happened today. But I got the thing together and the dang thing ran. I've been doing top end work for a while now but I still find it daunting on 4-strokes. I love the fact that you are honest and shared that with us. It's truly refreshing to see your work, the care that you take and the sharing with your young children. So glad I found your channel.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers Ken! Yeah my confidence is growing as I go, I already know the next time I do this it'll feel much less tense 😄

[@Northfox46]

Looks like it’s got yoshimura ignition advancer fitted 🤔

[@HalfdeadRider]

Yep I noticed the 4 degree advancer, a must on all bikes of this era, have one on my ZX9r. That with iridium plugs, shimmed main jet needles and a few other mods and tweaks make these awesome bikes much better.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Good spot, it’s all forming pieces of a puzzle, is there other things that get changed to match these advancers, that I should be looking out for?

[@zx9b2]

The advancer is a worthwhile mod on its own, but deleting the clean air system is a fantastic complement to it. All the carb 'fluffiness' at low rpm will disappear.

[@Flexnes1]

Love this! The "it's my first time" bit made me chuckle 😂

[@FourEM909]

Excellent stuff Tom . Looking forward to the re-assembly :)

[@charlesemerson6763]

Nice job Tom. Looks like there are no hidden surprises though you didn't shown the state of the valves in the head. But with no crusty deposits on the piston tops the valves should be good.

[@HalfdeadRider]

You won't see a lot until he takes them out, obvs they will have a fair bit of carbon build up like the pistons though.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Yeah I gave them a glance, but haven’t flipped it over fully yet so the buckets and shims don’t all fall out, I’ll do a whole vid on the head and valves after the next one 👍🏻

[@patrickhostler5939]

These films are so beautifully and clearly filmed, with great narration… I could definitely follow this series and confidently rebuild the same bike!!!. Superb work

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, appreciate that! I’m enjoying making the videos, with a view to make something I’d find helpful/interesting

[@zx9b2]

Nice to see someone doing all the service items which are normally neglected, like new o-rings on the head coolant pipe. Loving this series.

[@timfarley274]

Very interesting, I have three of them in my garage, I thought right away it was the upper. Good work so far, thanks.

[@ricardotolosa2671]

Hi Tom, good job mate, looking forward to the rest of the engine overhaul.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers!

[@papercut1987]

11:28 hahahahha, no worry Tom, we're all here to support you!

[@garyb931]

Another great video Tom, thanks.

[@PitSmok]

Another great episode, glad you taking your time with the restoration, its all about attentions to details. Love it 👌

[@jameskeegan00]

Absolutely loving this series, Tom! Itching for the next episode! :)

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers James 👍🏻

[@stoneautomotive]

Nicely shot and presented series 👍 Look forward to the finished piece, one of the few Kawasakis I like that one 😎

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers! It’s going to be a long journey but I’m loving every step. It’s been great to share it too.

[@bryansuperduke1290r]

Looks like it’s got a Yoshimura timing plate. Use some paint stripper to get old gaskets off.

[@575ban]

I was going to say that too 👍

[@llwellyn1]

I love this series on the ZX-7R and look forward to each new installment. If you like, I've included another video on the bike. This also added a bunch of great insight when comparing it to the earlier ZX-7 model. I hope you approve. Keep up the excellent work Tom! 1996 ZX7R & ZX7RR New Model Introduction Kawasaki Ninja VHS Rip - KZbin

[@Restorationclassics]

First time for everything mate lol looking good and youll learn loads

[@TheWhisky81]

I can confirm Tom that broken part is the top cam chain guide you thought it was, it is common on these, done my valve clearances this year and mine was broke in two ready to drop off, good luck with the rest mate👍

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers! I’d figured as much, and it’s missing from the inside of the cover. I expect there’s more in the sump as it doesn’t look like all of it was up the top.

[@thatwolffe3802]

A small tip for the future, put a long ziptie around the camchain as you're taking apart the engine this will help fishing it out if you ever need to, and will also help witb reassembly.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, Yeah I’ve done that before, particularly when it’s in the middle the engine and it’s busy the cams coming off. This one’s been pretty easy to fish out thankfully.

[@antonios2846]

Fantastic video and great job. Best motorcycle sounding engine on Earth. Greeting from a green proud P4 owner from Italy!

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, I do enjoy the noise on full twist, though I have to say I still prefer the sound of my RVF, but that be as it was my first bike so it’s the sound I judge all bikes against 😂

[@markhowlett8070]

Outstanding job sir

[@denisrichardson916]

Yes thank you Tom another great video already wanting another one 😊 video that is

[@TheLarko10]

Well done mate nice job...

[@petermosdell580]

Love it that you use hand tools (like me). It’s the only way to ‘feel’ a thread. Those electric drivers are quick but risk ripping a thread out. Great video and tidy work 👍

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, Yeah I know they come in handy, but I think hand tools are also more relatable to the everyday home tinkerer. 🔧

[@joebloggs2228]

great video .cracking job

[@michaelwoodward-vx5xw]

well done Tom I remember my first time when working at Kawasaki dealership back in the day, after only working on British bikes and then confronted with 4 cyl double overhead cams 4 carbs yikes, but no need to worry easier than working on British bikes now can do them in my sleep keep up the good work

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Thanks Michael!

[@josemiguelmendozahernandez1779]

Cool work...😮😀

[@luchacefox259]

Like all first timmers you are not using enough lube. Spray a little penetrating lube on those bolts and cylinder walls before you try to take things apart. If it saves you one sheared bolt one time its worth it. Good job other than that. Take lots of still pics also they help when you go to reassemble. 👍

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Haha cheers! I guess the benefits of lube can never be understated in all areas of life!

[@dazzx10r]

Nice work, looks like you have a Yoshimura ignition advancer fitted there.

[@Roostabergers]

Nice one Tom

[@darthninja1]

I have P2 - owned since new - with 52k on the clock. Never had to open the engine but have had clutch out and valve timings. Last year gave the front of the engine a spruce up. 7R lower fairing scoop design allows all that salt through and my oil cooler was in a terrible state as was the radiator bracket and horizontal coolant pipe. Replace coolant hoses which are now about 20 years old. Great work on engine, but it is practically unburstable!

[@HalfdeadRider]

At the mileage it is now at, I would suggest a refresh though, new piston rings, gaskets and oil seals. Honestly you'll notice the difference a lot when you ride it again.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

That’s good to hear, I’ve heard these things are solid and somewhat over-engineered. Yeah I think the front gets the brunt of the weather. I’ll be giving fresh paint hopefully 🤞

[@darthninja1]

​@@HalfdeadRiderI haven't ruled that out but a lot of my effort has gone in to keeping it running AND maintaining its bodywork and running gear. It has the breather mod, rejetted, 15 tooth front sprocket, and honestly pulls like a 900. Feels stronger and more powerful than when new. Love the bike to death!

[@aidenlothian9642]

​@@darthninja1 If it's been well maintained I probably wouldn't even consider touching the engine internals till 100000 miles. From what I've seen at that mileage it is the top end valve train that will show a little sign of wear. Even then. At that mileage you have to weigh up if you want to keep the bike going and see how long it will last or refresh it for peace of mind. Might even just want to get a new bike.

[@Tyzfim]

Yes!!! I have been waiting for this one

[@carlosbarrera9983]

Me too

[@obgarage344]

항상 잘 보고 있습니다.... 멋진 바이크로 거듭나길 응원합니다🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

[@dennisobrien2578]

I am Intimately familiar with the the previous gen ZX7R, so watching this with real interest. I agree with a previous comment that there are no surprises yet, but at this point you correctly point out there’s no turning back. You must split the cases as well. Your overheating issues are probably radiator related, they get road debris damage and grime so air doesn’t flow properly through. Well done so far, cheers from America!

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, Yeah I think the radiators long overdue a clean, hopefully that’ll be the trick. I’m hoping to not split the cases unless I find a strong reason to, though I will open the sump and clutch cover too.

[@dennisobrien2578]

@@tomsworkshopprojects ok. So you know I had a ZX7 and a ZX7R. Both had R engines the standard 7 got the R engine second hand after a crash that ruined the stock one. Back then parts were all over the place easy to get. Started getting blow by on the rings on one of the engines, and at that time I met a guy racing D-superbike CB1 It was like anything goes in that category. So I started building engines, we learned together. That engine you have has a really short stroke very difficult to get the cylinder block down over those pistons without snagging a ring, its much easier to have the pistons already on the rods, use a ring compressor to drop them down into the cylinder block. Then attach them to the crank shaft, the way you would do on an R6 Yamaha where the cylinders and top half of the cases are one piece. Good luck, hope that helps you.

[@WhiteOutHunting]

nice work

[@alanrobins]

Hi Tom Excellent video again like your take your time don’t rush attitude The head bolt with corrosion on could be a weep from the head gasket worth a very close inspection in that area Keep up the high standard

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Thanks Dad, good idea, I’ll have another look at it. I’ll replace the gasket anyway but will make sure the surfaces are all clean too

[@CRISLAIDPIBOT]

otro video excelente. muchas gracias por mostrarnos tu trabajo tan dedicado. disfruto mucho tus videos. vuelvo a ver los anteriores repetidas veces y espero siempre a que publiques el nuevo con mas novedades en tu proyecto. gracias

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Thank you!

[@abutomtom117]

It’s my first time 😂. Very coquettish.

[@mikeylite13]

Nice work. Really enjoying this restoration of a classic Super Sport. Glad your taking the time to really refresh and restore every part of the bike

[@kenwolfe5697]

Great progress! Looks like you’re doing everything the right way. It’s great to see

[@oznik46]

Love your work, can't wait for the next episode!

[@richardpearson4248]

Great video nice job looking forward to next one 🇬🇧👍

[@irwinstewart6745]

Nice work Tom.. I know you probably will check it out but with that can chain guide disintegrating like that you should drop the oil pan and clean out the pickup screen.. There will be a lot of pieces in it.. I had 2 of mine do the same as yours.. Cheers.. Stew

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers Stew, yeah I’ll be going through that for sure. Glad it wasn’t just mine 😂

[@richardraby6266]

Nice video. But why worry when stripping down? The difficult bit is building it back up, things like fitting the 4 cly barrel over the pistons without breaking rings (you will need 2 ring-clamps to do this professionally). One tip, make sure you do all the valve clearances with the engine out and still ON THE BENCH; it's just SO much easier.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, yeah that’s a good thought about valve clearances. I’ve hopefully got enough compressor rings to do the two at once. I think the “worry” is more just a sense of once you strip something you’re committing to the reassembly down the line 😂

[@richardraby6266]

@@tomsworkshopprojects Completely sympathise and understand your reasoning! I did a 1995 L3 model. Needed to Strip it completely and the only item in the engine NOT taken apart was the starter clutch assembly (inside the upper crank case if I remember correctly), this was known to be working well, so I left well alone. Everything else was stripped, measured, bearings replaced, parts out of spec changed (but these were VERY few, and most internals changed were thrust washers etc in the gearbox, just to get that sweet whilst it was apart and I had the opportunity ). I had never worked on a Four cylinder engine bottom end before; I used my bible which is the Clymer Manual, which I can recommend without hesitation and in-fact covers yours AND my models. I had no issues at all on building the engine apart from seating the barrel over the pistons, with NO ring compressor at all (nb I bent one brand new ring on first attempt, very annoying). These engines appear relatively easy IF you follow the Clymer manual. I do not know the Haynes one, I recommend buying the former. One more thing; try and just clean up the valves and refit them WITHOUT messing with the seats, unless you really have to. Then measure and re-shim the head out of the chassis. Some idiot blasted my head with the valves removed and I had to regrind the the seats; this meant that the clearances needed re-doing after a few miles were run. This had to be done with engine now back in frame; and THAT really is fun and also very nerve-wracking as the shims fall out into the cylinder head OR beyond. Use a magnet pen to help you both install and remove these shims, and keep the faith !

[@richardraby6266]

@@tomsworkshopprojects I forgot to say that I bought my L3 with a sheared water pump drive shaft (I discovered this on strip-down). This drive shaft comes off the opposite end of the OIL Pump. This coupling between the two is possibly a weak point in the engine design? Be sure to inspect these two items and their coupling very closely whilst apart and replace if necessary (only used parts are available now if the same for your model)? And lastly, I know from your approach shown on the videos that you are well capable of getting a good job done on the engine, possibly the most demanding point of this rebuild, the rest is easy, but follow the manual religiously.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

@@richardraby6266 wow that’s really helpful, cheers! That sounds like it was as educational as it was satisfying? I’ll look into the Clymer manual, can’t see a harm in having more info than less. Yeah my current hope is the valves will need a very gentle clean up and quick lapping, I had pretty good compression before stripping but there are a few that bubble up when doing the blow gun test. Got the wheels video almost finished and then I’m getting into the head work.

[@missydee6085]

I'm really enjoying the project Tom - and your video work is superb. Since my increasingly long-term build is a ZX7R too (albeit in a naked/'fighter incarnation), I'd be forever grateful to you if you could show the orientation and routing of all the coolant hoses once the rebuilt motor is back in the frame. I'm replacing all the original & tired rubbery jobs with a snazzy Samco Kit, but time's taken its toll on my memory & I'm struggling to work out which hose goes where! It all seemed so obvious & straightforward at the time they all got removed; and even the pictures I took for future reference have turned out to be pathetically inadequate... 🥴 Anyhoo,, keep on keeping on bab - & well done for a crackin' series👍

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers! Ah yeah I know that feeling, I’ve taken plenty of pics on the way down, but will definitely make a show of it going back together (assuming it goes smoothly!) I’ll probably do cooling system first up once the engine’s back in the frame 👌🏼

[@missydee6085]

@@tomsworkshopprojects Thanks ever-so' Tom, you're a bloody star! Here's to that engine going back together smoothly for ya 👍

[@big500]

A little tip if I may. Always measure the valve clearances and note them down before removing the cams. Then make a note of the shim sizes. It’ll save time on reassembly.👍

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

I did start measuring a few, but I’m somewhat expecting to need to lap the valves so figured that would make them void. I’d like the take the time on the reassembly to do a bit of a “how to” on the valve clearances if it helps others looking to do it.

[@SeanagnewA7X]

Cracking job mate. Nice clean,tidy and organised way of working. The best way. Seen in the comments you have a shopping list thats already getting pricey. Amazing how it adds up so quickly with very little parts.All the best with the project 👍

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers mate, haha yeah it’s little things but lots of them lol. £3.40 for a valve stem seal, but x16 it’s over £50 😂

[@DoRC]

Not sure if you noticed it with that timing wheel is aftermarket with 4° advanced timing it looks like.

[@garyjohnson5069]

Great work.really enjoyed that. I have been that deep myself. I was rooting for you with every one of those head bolts,terrifying. Junk all that emissions crap on the top of the rocker it does them no favours.also is that an aftermarket ignition advancer. Did you check the valve clearances before pulling it down may have saved a bit of time later

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers Gary, I did measure a few clearances but I’m somewhat expecting to be lapping the valves so figured they’d all be void if I did them fully. I might try to make that stage a bit of a “how to” as well to help others doing it. Good shout on the emissions stuff, I’ve heard a few things about removing it, so will look into it properly.

[@ferdiyurdakul]

Remember, if its nikasil plated, it doesn't always have honing marks. Sometimes you don't have enough coating to do so.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

I looked around to see if it was, but couldn’t find anything conclusive, I’ve also seen you need a different stone type for Nikasil liners.

[@ferdiyurdakul]

@tomsworkshopprojects keep up the good work 👍 looking forward for the next episode

[@deoncampher570]

Good to see all the bits on the 7r.. just windering what the 2 small bts are that came out of the neutral switch hole....i have to change mine.some time

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

They’re part of the switch, a small plunger and a spring, surprised me when I saw them, but looked at the manual later to work it out.

[@Yakuzza86]

Dziękujemy.

[@Yakuzza86]

Everything is nicely presented, you can learn from this video :) thanks

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Thank you! Appreciate the support!

[@paulwilkinson6608]

The plastic would have been the cam cover silencer plate. You normally find them in the sump . Looks like you have a +4 ignition advancer. are you going to do the vlean air mod whilst your working on the motor ?

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Yeah I think you’re right, it’s missing from the inside of the cover. Yeah I didn’t notice that at the time, looks like a Yoshi one, gotta look into what that’s about. Learning a lot doing this! I’ll definitely look into removing the clean air stuff. Looks like a no brainier.

[@paulwilkinson6608]

@@tomsworkshopprojects the +4 advanced makes the timing 4 degrees in advance of standard. It makes for a crisper throttle action. The clean air mod involves blocking off the cam cover valves. And then blocking off the pipe that would go into the airbox. Black silicone works well for this. I have had about 8 zx7rs over the years.

[@575ban]

Good job Tom. I like your confidence with stripping the engine. Care and attention is the key, and you seem to have cracked that. Did you check the engine number against the log book or with it being an import is the engine number the same as the frame number? They tend to do that with imports into the UK.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers, there’s no engine number listed in the logbook, so it may be I need to call a Kawasaki dealer to look it up. It’d be nice to rule it out officially, though it’s nice to know it’ll be all tip top when I’m through.

[@packhams4]

Good video, clear and understated. And no silly music. Have you been channelling Allen Millyard? No hedgehogs or scones though [yet?]....

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Haha I have had a few people mention Allen’s style, I could only dream of having that level of understated genius 😂 I think it’s a result of filming everything then putting the footage together to see what the video will be and then recording the voice over, rather than talking while doing the work, I don’t think I could do it like that 😂

[@user-uh7rr7ic9f]

@@tomsworkshopprojects You are doing a fine job, and making the effort to help other people, so top marks I say! You just need to work on the cooking segments😂

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

@@user-uh7rr7ic9f 😂 I’ll get the wife to open the recipe book

[@matmiller5256]

Appreciated the time / effort to upload. Fyi, the Gasket on the oil 'blow-by @ 13:24 is NLLA (no longer available) from Kawasaki OEM Parts list? As far as i'm aware, so caution required for that gasket. Thanks

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Thanks for the heads up, I’ll be sure to keep it safe!

[@tomevans4078]

Great work Tom. I remember the fear when I delved into my Fazer engine for the first time. Looks like you’ve seriously done your research, are taking your time and doing things by the book. How have you found ordering replacement bits? There are a few things for my SRAD that are getting harder to find as the years go by.

[@kenwolfe5697]

Also curious about ordering parts for this bike

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Cheers Tom, yeah it’s been a learning curve but fascinating. So far the majority of bits I need are still available, I’m building a chunky shopping list and it’s already getting pricey though 😂 there are a few things that are harder to find, which may mean restoring originals or finding alternative options.

[@ryanbox30]

Another great video, thanks for that. Just one question, did you check the valve clearance before taking out the camshafts?

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Haha, I glanced at them 😂 no I did check a few, but had a strong feeling I’d be lapping valves so they’d then be void. I want to do a detailed video on the process on the way back together so figured I don’t mind that it adds time to it.

[@ryanbox30]

@@tomsworkshopprojects that explains a lot. I'm already looking forward to the next video. Cheers

[@otmuppet]

Well done! Are you planning to replace the valve seals? Bit of a PITA job but worthwhile if you got the head off. Also, swap over to a manual CCT

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Yeah I’m planning to test the valves and lap them if needed, I’ll most likely replace the stem seals too. Is there a benefit to a manual CCT? More control over tension?

[@otmuppet]

@tomsworkshopprojects typically valve seals are super cheap and worthwhile to change. For the manual CCT it'd mostly for piece of mind. A mechanical cct is simple to use and will never fail. Loads of Japanese OEM CCTs were problematical. But If it ain't broke...

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Yeah I’ve got them on the “shopping list” I really want to do as much as I can to make it tip top for many miles.

[@otmuppet]

@tomsworkshopprojects Between new rings, hone, and valve seals, and a good break In, it will be GTG for another 100k km. Good habit to get into when checking a motor when you buy it, or before a major service, do a leak down test. I'll give you an excellent indication of your engine internal (valve seals, piston rings). A comp test prior to tear down also gives a decent idea of the health of the motor. But leakdown is usually the best.

[@robvannoordt3046]

Do you do a video how to remove and replacement the chaimchaim

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

I will be covering that in a few videos time as I’ll be removing it and measuring it when I get to the bottom end.

[@H-M-78]

Will there be some tough black?

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

In terms of paint? Or my hands after cleaning the carbon off everything 😂

[@H-M-78]

@@tomsworkshopprojects 🤣

[@ezeg5344]

Hi! I wanted to ask you how many millimeters the tool you used to extract the spark plugs is.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Hi, it’s 16mm hex but it needs to be a slim bodied one to get down inside hole.

[@ezeg5344]

@@tomsworkshopprojects Very kind of you to answer me. Thank you so much. I look forward to the next chapter. Greetings

[@BossaNossa1]

Where do you buy your parts...?

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

A bit of a mixture, mostly between WeMoto, Fowlers, or eBay.

[@oldninjadude1]

Should have checked those valves before you removed that cam cap.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

I did start checking them, but then remembered I’ll be lapping the valves so I’d need to do them all again anyway. Might have been nice to have a starting measurement though

[@oldninjadude1]

@@tomsworkshopprojects yep always , best time to do it, it’s a headache putting everything back together and torquing to spec just to check them

[@robertvici2445]

Hi, I need the cylinder head for zx7r, does anyone have for sale?

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Good luck with the search 🤞

[@robertvici2445]

I have the cylinder head but no valves and 2 valve guides removed

[@HalfdeadRider]

This is how to do it, and why it kind of frustrates me watching Americans pull bikes and engines apart, they all seem to just use impact guns and drills on everything, lazy and potential to round off or snap heads off the bolts, fine if cracked first, but they don't, lets not talk about putting them back in 😂 It would have been a quite a bit easier using a breaker bar on the head bolts though, recently done my ZX9r, didn't touch the block and pistons though. Those sparkplug gaskets could be the reason it was overheating, mine were very bad on only 22k miles.

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Haha yeah I wince when watching them. My issue was the block spinning rather than having enough torque. Interesting point on the spark plug gaskets, the main symptom was hard starting when hot.

[@davidmulgrave1441]

Foreskin 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

I hold no guarantees the humour will be any more high brow that this 😂

[@a8f235]

Golden bolts... LMAO I thought they were corroded Sadly there are way more crap upgrades for bikes than there are proper one's. Like carbon fibre *_LOOK..._* Who ever thought that was a good idea lol

[@tomsworkshopprojects]

Haha yeah there’s some pretty offensive stuff out there 😂