That’s a lot of stirring dude

Actually..that does help. Thanks, Bruh.

Everyone please don’t listen and take advice from this guy! Totally fine to go back and forth and can use a shorter beam. As he said the higher frets, usually from 16 and up might be a lil higher. For this use a shorter sanding beam and start from around the 16th fret and work your way back to the body. You will sand those frets down a lil lower than the rest and this will give u even lower action as well. The main thing before even starting is making sure your fretboard is completely level/straight. If you have a slight bow either way then the frets won’t be level when sanding them. Invest in a decent straight edge either way a flat side and other with notches to be able to get it perfectly level. Then make sure all the frets are properly seated and mark the tops of each fret with a red or blue sharpie marker. Then use your sanding beam with 600g sandpaper back and forth and in a x pattern like he said. You’ll be able to tell when all the sharpie is removed from the frets when it’s down. Check with your fret rocker all down the frets to see if u have any high frets at all and also use your straightedge across all the frets as well. If there’s no high frets anywhere then move on to crowning the frets. I then again us a sharpie across the top of the frets so u can see where and how much you’ve taken off of each fret. After crowning the file your ends and then go through the steps off sanding out all the scratched to be able to polish. I start out at 600, 800, 100, 1200, and then a 2000g scotch brite pad. After getting all the scratched out use a polish bar or I use the Music Nomad fret polish and can either do it by hand with a cloth or I use a dremel with polishing wheel. With a clean microfiber towel wipe off the excess polish and clean your fretboard with a good fretboard cleaner. Then oil it up and it’s ready for strings. Make sure to check your fretboard again will installing new strings and if u like slight relief then back off your truss rod a 1/4-1/2 turn. You also don’t have to buy an expensive sanding beam and can use an aluminum 2’ level or even a 1’ foot. Best thing is to get some 1” woodworking double sided tape to attach your sandpaper so u don’t have to buy the expensive sticky sandpaper. Sorry for the long comment and hope this helps someone out with their first fret level. I didn’t cover every single lil detail and step or this would’ve been a novel but this is the basics that need to be done. There’s also PLENTY of other great videos on KZbin to help u with learning how to do a proper fret level/refret job.

why are you not just using a heat gun

I don't know about this. Tru-Oil has no Tung Oil. It has Raw Linseed oil. Big differences between Raw and Boiled Linseed oil. Tung oil, whether pure or dryers added, is a whole 'nothet ball of wax. I think Birchwood Casey figured out the secret recipe that can not be made ar home simply by mixing the MSDS ingredients, even if you know the percentages. There manufactured, mixed and cooked at different rates. It's goid info to experiment with though. I just buy the Tru-Oil since it's cheap enough and proven. Nice video.

Just to add my thanks for an elegant and REAL solution that is also easy to implement and understand. Perfection.

you should always intonate in playing position!

Brilliant; thanks so much for these tips!!

I am learning a lot from you. Thx.

Just curious do u know why many also say laquer is the fastest to dry? Hence you can get many costs on quickly? Seems counter to this theory. Help me understand 😊

Genius!!!!

I wish I had seen your video before I tried that small-screw-in-the-hole method. I have to fix a crack in the back of the wood now.

Enjoyable watch Thanks

What is that song being played near the end?

you said with the longer beam, don't make a left to right action (back/forth along the frets) because the frets in the centre will get more sanding - how? (the beam can't go any lower than the height of the length of the fretboard? Or perhaps I missed your point.

I need to flip one saddle on my ES-335, I’m guessing you need to remove the entire bridge to do this or is it possible to move the one string aside and reverse just the one? If I do need to remove the bridge, is it possible to do this with all the strings loosened? I just changed them! If I have to trash the new strings it’s not the end of the world. Thanks!

Thank you so much for this. I'm doing a guitar build and I got this body I got from Amazon, unfinished and it's got no neck holes but I have a neck from Warmoth that does. So I was like how the hell am I going to get this to line up. Seems like a little bit of work but with great results so thank you! By the way I am kind of interested in the pick up design your son came up with? If you don't mind sharing I would love to hear how it turned out?

thank you!!

I always was under the impression string slots should be half the diameter of the string. With this method , I can see strings possible being completely in a slot, and more chance of binding... I always do my slots 1/2 diameter deep.. then shave my nut from the bottom. I still don't see how if you make the slot height same as first fret, the string clears it..

What about Knopfler’s Suhr-Pensa custom that is polyester over lacquer?

Great work!I am trying to make one out of steel. What size of thread did you use?

Do you wrap the feeler gauge or torch cleaning tips with sandpaper and if so what grit do you use?

Thank you for another brilliant idea ! I would have not thought of using those !!!

Absolutely brilliant idea ! It never crossed my mind to use torch tip cleaners for nut slotting , but it will now. Thanks for this ! :)

Great suggestion! Thanks for sharing! I have a set of tip cleaners I had forgotten about. I think for the smaller sizes, the tip cleaners work better and are slower. It's SO EASY to go too far with a file.

I'd like to have one me too...being a super fan of the Late Great Paul Kossoff(the KOSS)...my guitar hero

I had an Epiphone LP Special that had a rattle and was about to trash it. I came across this video and gave it a try. I fixed the rattle and still amazed at the way it plays. Thanks Ken

Those welder tips are totally superior to expensive nut files for the low E to D strings. It takes a little longer but all the nut files including expensive ones do not have nicely rounded burrs but the cleaners do. Some files are flat like Hoscos which are crap but not cheap. These nut files take top prize for scam cost luthier tools. I'm surprised Hoscos stuff is so bad considering its Japan made. Gotoh guitar parts made in Japan are all excellent.

I like it but T track soul allow for an adjustable locking end stop for the heel of the neck pocket

i have the opposite problem, my high E string is flat at the 12 fret, but in tune open. if i keep unscrewing the screw it will come out. its a fender strat.. and tips?

there is a better teflon tape than the plumbers type that is available from 3M. It will not dissolve like the plumbers white tape.

I’m using varathane water based poly, and want to put colortone guitar lacquer over it. So that should be fine?

Now you made me want to remove the neck and the pegs and see if I get rattle from in there. Nah, not the pegs. I'll put chewing gum 😅 But I have an issue... My dots are not at the center 🤦🏻

Funny, I own one just like your "Blue"

But he didnt talk about height of the nut those slot would be so deep i. The current state

That’s a really ingenious way with the iron instead of steaming and possibly twisting and destroying a neck!!😅😅

i bought the kit, it polishes more than files. Dont buy.

I'm gonna be honest when you first pulled out that half pencil I thought, "this guy's fucking dumb, what the hell" but then you kept going and now I feel like the dumb one. That is a genius way to slot a nut. Thank you very much.

I just jacked my dogs bone, sorry buddy I need to make some bone nuts

Bummer..... but you saved me a lot of pain in the future. Thanks!!

I purchased a set of nut files from Pit Bull Guitars, back when I bought a guitar kit from them. Only today watching this video I learnt that the 'nut files' are a set of torch tip files just like the ones you have, even down to the blue casing. To be honest I found them pretty useless for deepening the notches in the nut, and are only good for rounding / cleaning the notch after taking to it with a tiny hacksaw. Yep, a hacksaw. ( _Edit_ : I removed the hacksaw blade from the handle and filed by holding the blade directly between my thumb and index finger, otherwise the handle would have hit the headstock) With the finer unwound strings, I didn't even need to smooth the notches out at all. The end result is perfectly fine, with care.

looks sick, sir.

I love this, thank you so much for sharing. This is so stupid simple, and nothing brings quite the joy as something done stupid simple and well :)

GENIUS

based!

thank you

Amazing, thank you.

If the gap between the berings bellow is smaller, the wire can be bend in all the extention. Half inch is appropriate

That DID help me out. Thanks dude.

Genius! Thanks!