I would recommend a black primer so that the paint is less prone to rubbing off.

I don't think I had a particularly specific strategy when making the notches other than trying to keep them vaguely even. I may have compared them to the distance on the actual blood bowl boards to get a vague idea of the size that they're supposed to be, but basically just went along perpendicular to the popsicle stick cutting in deep enough that I had clear seperation between the bottom and top of the notches and then used my knife to pop out every other tooth.

Depends on the look you are going for. If you are wanting really trim and well kept grass that is all standing up, then yes. For something like Blood Bowl bases, where it will have being trodden upon so should look a bit squashed and unkempt, I generally don't, and just use an old brush to fluff it up if it is looking to flat before the glue dries.

It is possible. The potential issue is going to be that now you are glueing the model to paint instead of the material of the base itself. This isn't too much of an issue with traditional paint jobs because the paint is normally pretty secure and/or plastic cement will melt acrylic paint too, so you can get a strong bond. That being said, when using a crackle paint like this, since it tends to be more prone to flaking, I would attach the model first, or use a bit blue tack or something to mask when painting the base to leave where the model is going to connect free of paint, so you can get a strong bond there.

I have used sand and bone primers from Vallejo and I think they are smoother than the white, especially if well shaken.

I am not definitely sure, but I suspect not, for using gesso as a primer on minis. Gesso is generally used for priming canvas and boards, aka flat surfaces that don't get handled alot after painting. It is composed of chalk/gypsum, binder, and pigments, so tend to be inflexible. Primers used for minis are often a mix of acrylic and polyurethane, so are more flexible and designed to chemically bind with plastic. I am pretty sure this video is my best video on priming.

@@SleepyWhatsIt Thank you for the answer!

Glad you found it helpful 😄 If you have just the 6 paints from this kit, I think you're going to have a very difficult time trying to paint any type of natural human skin tone. This is because there are no reds or even warm tones in this and that's pretty essential for painting skin tones. You might be able to pull off an other worldly tone using white with a bit of blue, but that could go sideways pretty quick. If you have access to the paints from the Orruk starter set, that includes a light brown and a red. So combined with the white from this set, you probably could start mixing to get something that would be a usable skin tone. But in general skin tones are one of those paints that you end up with a lot of different variations of because the human eye is really good for picking out issues with skin tone. So you just end up with a lot of them to make up a good looking skin (I normally build my storm cast with helmets on to avoid painting faces 😅). The classic tanned caucasian skin tone recipe using Citadel paints is Base in Bugman's Glow, Wash with Reikland Fleshtone, Layer with Cadian Fleshtone, Highlight with Kislev Flesh. If you want lighter, start with Cadian as your base, if want darker start with something like Knight Questor, or even darker, and adjust your layer and highlight appropriately.

Your welcome 😁

Glad you found it helpful 😁

Thanks!

Glad you enjoy it!

Glad I could help!

I agree that painting in subassemblies is generally the way to go. It is has been a while since I made this video, but I suspect I went with fully assembling in it either a) to make the steps simpler to follow for a new painter, or b) what little instructions were provided with the kit did full assembly.

yeah, even using pva under it doesnt make it crackle that much.

I legitmately don't know for sure. GW doesn't explicitly say they are a primers, but does list undercoating as one of their uses, which sounds like they are supposed to be used for priming. And GW doesn't really have any other products that are a true primer. I think a lot of people are using them for priming, but I generally don't use rattle cans, so I cannot say for sure. I hesistate from saying yes, because in my understanding of acrylic paints, primers are chemically different from standard acrylics. Specifically normal acrylics bond with other acrylics better than other plastics (like the polystyrene of the model), so will have a tendency to chip and flake off of the model if directly applied to it. A primer is normally a mix of acrylic and another chemical/paint that binds to the surface of the model well, but acrylic paint also binds to it well. Think of it as kinda a glue between the paint and the model. Because GW isn't explicitly saying that their sprays are primers, I am unsure if that means a) they are just straight acrylic and are just an easier method for base coating, or b) they are actually primer, but they don't want to distringuish between base paints and primers for some reason. tl;dr I am not sure, and I don't want you to be led astray by me saying that yup they are a primer and then have models that wear easily. I think people do use them as primer, but I don't know how well that actually works.

@@SleepyWhatsIt Wow, thank you so much anyway! ;)

Glad it was helpful!

Hopefully it helps your model look awesome.

Glad it was helpful!

You're very welcome!

White primer should work fine. You don't get 'free' shading from it, so the overall look might be a touch brighter than if you use a black. And missed areas in the recesses will be more obvious, since they will be white.

@@SleepyWhatsIt I think I'm just going to buy black primer, is the army painter matte black primer ok?

Probably. I haven't used it personally, but I am not aware of any specific complaints about it. I tend to use Reaper or Vallejo primers, but that is mostly what is easiest for me to get.