it depends on which bike. got to their website and see it your bike is there.

It is kind of a pain in the ass. It plugs in at the harness and you have to be very careful with the plastic pins.

When were you there, we might have passed each other...

Nah, it was a great learning experience and that's what life is all about.

this program is call Flashtune ECU.

I actually did change the crank for the original because the #1 journal was burnt. I made the mistake of getting a R1S crank that was marked as a R1 (regular one). The R1S has steel rods so the counter balance weight is larger then the Reg R1 crank that has lighter Titanium rods. I didn't know this because I am not a R1 mechanic and I trusted that the crank I got off ebay was the right one, which it wasn't. I ended up taking apart the engine again and taking my rotating assembly (crank/rods/pistons) to be balanced and he was the one that figured it out I had the wrong crank, after making a few calls. So he rebalance that R1S crank by removing more weight then normal. Now she runs awesome.

You, my friend, are pretty much the coolest person I have met in 999 people.

my guess, because it has been so long was prob around $1300-$1500. The piston was around $400 alone if I recall. I got most of my parts off partzilla.

Yeah..this bike sounded so dang good.

Thanks for your comment. Dually noted.

yes there are a few in the rebuild series. I think 4 or 5. Thanks for visiting.

Unfortunately I only have experience is Flashtune. I wish I could help you. God bless.

They did not fix for free smh such a L

congrats...ride smart and your will have a forever smile.

@@IamLaR1 It's in the garage and I already smiling

I am not sure what you mean by a "crack on the left side". What makes you think you need a new crank shaft and piston? To get a realistic price go to partzilla and look up what you think you need. Heads up, the bike has a lot of single use bolts, so DO NOT try to reuse them (most are aluminum I believe). They will break when you try to re-torque then and then you will be screwed. Also, pretty sure you can still get copies of the R1 manual from the R1 forums and its is there that you can find the steps required to rebuilt your engine and the torque specs for everything. Also, because you have the R1 and not the R1s make sure use do, in fact, get the correct crack and connecting rods/pistons, because that are different. As far as the reason for my bikes failure...I am not sure. The only thing I can think of is that there is a oil seal on the inside of the right engine cover. If that fails somehow, then the #1 piston (which is on the left side of the bike), being furthest away from the oil inlet, will be the first to heat up and fail do to lack of oil.

@@IamLaR1 the piston broke the engine case and came out. It is almost unrecognizable. I am looking for a replacement engine now. Thanks for the video.

We all have different intensions and mentalities. It appears to me that anyone can forever alter their lives path on any bike that goes faster than 30 or so MPH, but thanks for your comment. Be good and be kind...god bless you. Oh and for clarity, the R1 sounds way better then just "cool"...😁

They are certainly special to us R1 owners.

If I recall correctly, it was some where around $1500-$1600. The dang titanium connecting rod itself was near $400 alone. But because of being sold the wrong crank and needing to get it and all the rotating assembly rebalanced, the cost was higher then just the basic parts.

I looked for it also and could not find it on ebay. You might try Partzilla and the Yamaha...sorry bro.

@@IamLaR1 No problem,thanks for responding.

Just thinking about it bro. Once you get the engine off (you will just have to wiggle it off, she will eventually come), you can find a deep socket that fits perfectly in that engine mounting bracket hole/space (the hole where the bracket bolt and spacer goes) then cut the end of it, so it fits into the slots on the top of the "engine mounting spacer". Then you should be good to go with torqueing the spacers, once you get the engine back on the bike.!!

@@IamLaR1 yea that’s was my next move, I think I read it here in your comments that someone mentioned how he cut regular socket 👍

Since My ECU has the Bikeside Harness plugged directly to it and you have to turn the bike on and off to flash it, yes the battery is hooked up on it, and I never really have felt the ECU during the flashing because my bike is fully put together during the flashing.

I think you can but you would have to go to FlashTunes Website to see if they have a flash kit for it. If they dont then you will probably need to have someone do it and they will probably use a power commander.

Unfortunately there are none that I know of. I can do my best to try to help you or you might be able to go to the FT ECU Website and visit their forums.

Its not bad because it doesn't need the internet for long...and doesn't use too much data. I phone would work.

Until their server goes down.

This is actually my content channel, if you are down to work on progression, no ego, I have actual methods that will help you in an accelerated manner

Hey man, thanks for commenting...I too have no ego. I have found that ego is the destroyer of all relationships, especially that most important one with our good lord. Anyway, I am trying to get faster, but its not that big of a goal. Meeting new people and making new riding buddies will always be more important.

Yah I agree man, I'm always looking for guys to track with. If at anytime you want to come try the Kart track stuff with the 300cc's let me know I'll bring my extra bike.

Yes...I ride in A group but am in the bottom 1/2. I don't try to push it and don't care if I get passed...LOL

Bro, sorry to hear about this...that sucks. If I can be of any help I will for sure. Shoot me an email for any questions. [email protected]

I am not sure if they call it a crossplane or not. I know it is a twin with the cylinders at 70degs but that's the extent of my knowledge 😂😂😂🤷🏼‍♂️. Thanks for watching, god bless.

Bro, what is FTD? Friday???

@I am La FTD is FunTrackDayz. A trackday provider. I'll be coaching with them this year.

@@Jusrr Check...I have ridden with them before. I will look to sign up at one of their TH events then for this season, and congrats on becoming a Coach with them....See you then Bro.

Keep practicing.

Check. My Issues is the trust and believing. Just seat time and pushing it I guess. I love riding and my ego is certainly in check. I dont need to prove anything to anyone, but would like to hit sub 2mins at Thunder Hill. I really appreciate your commenting and trying to help out. God bless.

@@IamLaR1 of course as a biker my self someone who gotten hurt don’t ever feel the need to prove ur self to no one ever. All it takes is wrong one move at the wrong time in one sec all of it can be gone learn at ur own pace it’s okay to make mistake that’s how u become perfect keep it up bro ride safe

Thank you bro.

HAHA...lay it on me. I know it is just a matter of leaning more. I have dragged my knee before, just not all the time and I am okay with that. As stated in the video, once my pace picks up the knee will get lower. Its just I want to get more comfortable at it.

Honestly, I just think mine was a fluke. She has been perfect after the rebuild. I think all 2016s and on had a spacer put in the crank to help reduce possible wear so you should be good. The other thing I have heard is make sure that if your replace the throttle side engine cover that your replace the oil seal that is attached to that cover.

go to the Flashtune Website.

This entire road was pretty awesome. Thank you for commenting.

Yes…the R1 and R1M are exactly the same engine wise. Please be careful however, as the “R1S” has a different crank (I found that shit out by accident) and different connecting rods. The connecting rods on the R1S are steel and not titanium like on the regular R1 and the R1M. Thus, the crank shaft for the R1S has larger counter balancing weights to accommodate the heavier weight of the steel rods. This is assuming you are getting parts for the same year bike as the one you are working on. I do not know if the new bikes use different engine parts, but if you are buying parts for the year of ur bike u should be good.

I got it off of eBay.

Unfortunately I do not think they have any type of manual available. So you have to learn this stuff on your own which kinda sucks. I will help you as much as I can. Is there something specific you are having issues with?

@@IamLaR1 I purchased a map from a tuner and its powerful but its over heating the bike in traffic so I was trying to see how to remedy the problem

Make sure that you are supporting your engine with a jack or even just a bunch of padding, and if you dont have that special tool (I got one for $30 off of ebay if I remember right), you might just have to slowly wiggle it out. If all the engine bolts are out, then the only thing holding the engine to the frame are those pacers, assuming you have taken everything else off the engine that needs to come off. I actually had to wiggle my engine out the 1st time because I did not have the tool originally.

Thank you for the input, and you are correct about the music being too loud...sorry. The bike is super comfortable compared to my R1. Different bikes for different uses. I am certainly looking forward to doing some longer rides. Thank you for watching.