Thanks man! Yes an enclosed printer would help a lot! But I not willing to to invest in it at this moment. Maybe later!

Thanks for your comment by the way! Appreciate it!

I’ve surfed it all ready without a camera. You could definitely feel the weight of the board. I’m still waiting for the right conditions to film some footage.

Tell me about it 😢… do you have any schools that need a PE teacher over there? I will come right away

@@Dzjiefoils there`s a lot of schools here but indonesia has pretty strong laws about working foreigners. You should ask company to open a special working visa. Or you could find students locally and teach them personnaly but it`s little bit illegal:)

Hi, it’s heavy, I weighed it after the surf session, with some water in it. Around 5kg

Thanks man!

The next one will have spaces to glue proper fin boxes in.

Jep! 🤣🤷‍♂️

So cool you make wooden surfboards! I also made a wooden surfboard a few years back out of red cedar, not as good as yours of course, but I was pretty proud of it. Sorry that you see 3D printed core as waste… I think it’s a pretty cool project that looks very good, but doesn’t surf that great in these conditions. Hopefully in some bigger waves, it will work a bit better.

​@@Dzjiefoils don't listen to this guy. This was a sick project

@@danielfloyd9742thanks for the support!

Thanks!🙏

Ahh ok thanks for the tip. Will use this next time!

Thanks for your comment! Just go and do it!

Thanks! 🙏 I think it will perform better in larger waves, this was just too mushy. I think it’s because the board is pretty heavy and small. It needs a powerful wave to get up to speed, and some more input from the surfer.

Yeah that would be nice!

Thanks for your comment! Yeah that could be the case. It’s pretty heavy. Around 5 kg, so maybe thats why it’s so deep in the water?

Thanks!

Thank you sir!

Thanks!

Thanks for your comment, I don’t really follow what your saying though. Interlocking 2D ribs? What do you mean by that. I’m currently designing a foil board to be 3d printed. So any advice would be helpful.

@@Dzjiefoils If you google "How to Create Kumiko at the Table Saw" and check out the article by FineWoodworking, the first image should explain it. You'd ironically be 3d printing 2d shapes but if done properly it should end up stronger than directly printing the 3d structure, would eliminate any of the printing issues caused by the slight curvature of the board (which in your video instead of supports you could've sliced the parts in half in the Z direction which would make it stronger and allow them to print directly, but obviously you'd have double the parts to glue. I think it would also save about 30% overall material without the supports). To design this you could simply make the repeating internal structure, intersect it with your board geometry, then project the joint cutout positions onto the surface generated by slicing the board in half along Z (you could skip this step but the structure wouldn't be as strong). Obviously, you could then manufacture this much more efficiently using laser cutting. If you specifically want to 3d print a 3d structure, I would try to design something that would be strong enough to print vertically so that you can fill your build plate with say 5 parts that are printed standing up and fill the entire build volume rather than one flat part per print.

Haha nice, just do it!

Thanks!

Ok! 👌

Maybe!

Too much… little less than 5kg

Thanks!!🙏

Dude, I did this already, check my other video where I work with foam.

I’ve checked their instagram. It looks very cool indeed. Looks like they used some kind of infill inside the frame. Thanks for the heads up!

Thanks! 🙏 wooden inlays are very cool as well!

Thanks man!

Thanks!!🙏

You are right, but using more 3D print material mean also more weight. So the board would be even heavier.

@@Dzjiefoils it you are making it heavier with fibreglass so I don’t get why you only print the structure not the whole surface too and make it a jigsaw type of structure and glue the flat surfaces together . Then the weight wouldn’t matter because the buoyancy would be greater just my thoughts it’s great either way. Have a good one

And then you could also put grooves on The surface of the print for grip and channels on The bottom at the fins

I get what you’re saying and it could definitely work, but the heaviest thng in this printend board is the frame. Fibreglass has a much bigger strength to weight ratio than petg I believe. The board will be leaky and likely break soon if you don’t reinforce with fibreglass.

The grooves and channels option would be very cool!

Thanks man! Great idea’s. Im currenly working on a 3D printed hexagon foil board i designes myself this time. But maybe in the future I build some classic Hawaiian stuff. My brother in law travels a lot to Hawaii, so maybe he can surf it there one day.

Yep, still enjoying it to this day? What did Naish change? I’m running the 280 stabilizer

@@DzjiefoilsI was borrowing the 1240 when I learned but ended up buying the new 2024 1040HA (the black and white redesigned one) and 220 stab. Don’t love it as much, harder to pump. But ordered a new 2D stab to see if it loosens it up a bit.

Nice! You use the 1040 for prone surfing?

Tanks man! It’s definitely not solving any surfboard building problems. I can agree with you on that. My most time consuming project so far… 🤷‍♂️😎

Thanks for your comment, but I’m not anywhere near those places. And I only spend around €250,-

Yeah, maybe I will do it in the next one!

There are printers that size, but they are very expensive!

Haha. Yeah. I was doubting to put washed up stuff from the beach in one of the triangles. But went for a clean look

I think I used about 8 metres of fibreglass 70cm wide roll, and 2kg of epoxy. Wooden stringet would make it even heavier and not see-through, so I would stick with fibreglass. I’m gonna fix the hole in the back by putting epoxy on/in it.

@@Dzjiefoils Did you use 4 oz s fiberglass?

6oz

My translation app says that you say it doesn’t look very good? 🤔🤷‍♂️😢

Check out the longform video on my channel. Link to the stl is in the description. Haha, you design it, I print the 100.000 piece yacht for you! 😂

What do you mean? Print the outer shell as well?

@@Dzjiefoils the keel, outer shell and bracing are the strongest part of your board. I'm a mechanical engineer dm me if you need further help

I’m working on a new board in fusion 360, so I could definitely use your feedback. What’s your Insta so I can DM you?