Hi Steve I'm away until the weekend if you send me a contact email I'll send the pics over at the weekend 👍[email protected]

If you haven't already fitted them. Try not removing the inner handle bar weights at all and just bolt the handguard aluminium frame direct to the bar weight. If your happy with the fit then leave it there. Then it's an extremely easy fit and nothing needs to be removed. I followed the instructions that came with the kit but on reflection there was probably no need to remove/replace the inner weights. The only issue I can see by not removing the weights is that the original outer bar weights are slightly longer than the barkbuster weights which means the whole assembly moves slightly outwards but you should be able to get them to fit. Give it a go if you don't like the fit then fit them like I did 👍

@terrysmith-NC750X I was going to attempt it today, but I will leave the weight in there. I've already taken the right side out but I can put that one back in easy. Did you use the original bolt into threads into the bar end weight? I believe it's a different size and a different head... ? Also, the edge of the backbone touches my speedo on full lock... Did you experience this too?

​@@AM-cz4fd ​I orginally used the method shown in the video, which worked fine, although I felt a very small vibration at certain speeds so refitted the original weight. I'm not sure it made any difference to be honest. With the weights refitted I used the orginal bar weights and bolts. The method in the video worked OK and was slightly tidier. If you email me I'll send some pics. I didn't have any issues with the frame hitting the speedo.

@@terrysmith-NC750X hi thanks for your advice, using the original weights worked a treat. It was hitting the Speedo because I was using the new bar end weights which were shorter in length, but I reused the original bar end weights and it works perfectly. There are also no vibrations for me at all...

@AM-cz4fd brilliant glad you got it sorted

They make a slight improvement on comfort but nothing significant on your back side. They do raise the seat height slightly and that had helped with a bit of relief on the knees. Biggest advantage Ive found is the water drains away from the seat, hence no wet seat in the morning when touring. Does that help?

@terrysmith-NC750X Thank You!!!

Give the bottom hook a go. I struggle with bottom as the battery was falling forward. The top is a pain but I managed it but you have to do it blind. The manual is not helpful in that it says clip strap back on. 😀 If the bottom works better for you share hereto help others. Hopefully you'll get to ride your new bike soon 👍

@@terrysmith-NC750X I ended up refining your technique and it seemed to work well. Make sure the clip is angled slightly upwards from the strap, then when you stretch it as you showed it goes in over the clip, then just use the ring finger of the hand holding the strap to bend the pin downward snd it catches the clip when your release it. The tricky bit is it has to be only slightly upwards when it goes in or it catches the fuse box and bends the opposite way. But thanks for the helpful video, a couple of hours on the charger and I was able to get on the bike in the afternoon. It was gloomy and windy and there was even some rain. It was just so good to back out on a bike!

@Rebecka_J Brill 👍

Leave that with me and I'll see if I can provide a translation

Ciao Puoi aggiungere sottotitoli in italiano al video selezionandoli dalle icone mostrate in fondo al video. Per farlo clicca sull'icona delle impostazioni. Questo ti consente di selezionare la lingua usata per i sottotitoli. Per cambiare lingua clicca sull'opzione di traduzione automatica e seleziona Italiano dall'elenco. Per attivare o disattivare i sottotitoli clicca sull'icona a sinistra dell'icona delle impostazioni. Speriamo che questo ti aiuti - potresti anche voler guardare questo video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJvUkqKpd6ifZ8Usi=ozvQ6VGDyb1fIZgb.

Brill

Hi yes it's a 10mm socket if you don't have one a cross head screw driver does work if the screws haven't been over tightened. In the video I unclipped the strap from the top. Others have had more success unhooking the strap from the bottom so try both options if you struggle. Hope this helps.

Thanks, 10 mm socket worked like a charm, replaced battery but still struggling to hook the strap. Your instructions were so helpful, this is the first time I am doing a mechanical work on motorcycle. Thanks again.

​@akapar Try hooking the strap on the top first then stretch it to hook the bottom. In the video I did it the other way around, which may not be the easiest.

When you mention the light bar do you mean the the light on the right that changes colour with your riding style. I.e green for economy or something else? If so, on my manual it's linked to the riding modes and doesn't work in sport and I think rain. You can change the lights to the revs although I've not done this myself.

Hi Harry leave that with me and I'll have a look over the weekend and come back to you. Can you adjust any other functions on the dash? Also, when you fitted the modification did you splice into the loom or just connect straight to the battery?

Hi Harry I'll reply to this in two parts and in two replies. The first is the Clock Set Procedure the second is some things to try if this doesn't work. Clock Set Procedure 1. Push and Hold the SEL and MODE buttons until the ADJUST menu is displayed. 2. Push the MODE you should then see the 12/24 hr Clock the mode use the up/down buttons to select what you prefer once happy press the MODE to move on to the date setting. 3. Use the up/down buttons to select year and MODE to move on to Month, repeat up/down plus MODE to move on to Day. After pressing MODE you move onto set TIME. 4.Use up/down to set hour then push MODE repeat for minutes after Pressing MODE to set the minutes the clock is set and moves onto the back-light settings. 5. Push and Hold the SEL and MODE button and you should return to normal. If you set the back light you will then need to cycle through the settings to the end of the menu.

second bit. There’s little in the manual regarding faults with the dash unit other than earth issues and how to remove it. If the dash is working fine other than the time setting check your fuses there’s a 10a clock fuse that may have blown. Mines a manual not DCT and the fuse is located on the left side of the fuse box, which is next to the battery. If you can set other functions on the dash, disconnecting the power may reboot the unit and reset things. Another potential issue could be the dash rear connector is not seated correctly or may need a clean. i.e. the signals from the buttons are not reaching the unit, also check the button connections and spray some switch cleaner on the connections. If the buttons are functioning fine then they are unlikely to be the cause but something to eliminate. The last thing I can come up with is a potential poor earth, although I would suspect you would experience other random issues with the dash but once again worth checking. The big electrical connector on the back of the unit is a bit of a faff to get to and requires removing the front cover but to get to that you need to remove other body work, hence I suggest you first double check the time setting sequence process - you need the ADJUST menu - second check the clock fuse, then disconnect the power - then clean the buttons and if that doesn’t work remove the front cover to check the rear connector, but as I said that's a bit of a pain. Please let me know once you get things sorted.

Pete, thanks for the info, really interesting. I'm quite shocked that the valve clearance needed adjusting so quickly. You might want to mention that to the dealer. If you do please keep me updated. Hopefully the illness is temporary 👍

@@terrysmith-NC750X I rarely use a dealer and bought the NC because of the ease of service. I've had dozens of bikes of all types since the early eighties and I've always done my own maintenance. My Royal Enfield Himalayan valves needed adjusting three times in a thousand miles! I got shot of that sharpish. I'm on the mend now I hope but thanks :-)

@peterc2248 I also prefer to do my own maintenance. It gets done properly then 😀 Hope you feel better soon. 👍

I'll check later and get back to you ref date format

Hi Dave, the usb is indeed the mini type. I believe its a type C. The same that the Samsung phones take if that helps. Hope your enjoy the new bike I've been pleased with mine.👍

@@terrysmith-NC750X Thanks for the reply Terry. Yes, I'm pleased with it so far.👍

Hi actual comfort is difficult to judge as I've got used to it. I would say the improvement is minor but it does raise the seat height a little, which helps me with knee angle slightly. But my knee isn't the best so any small help is appreciated. The cover does drain water away really well. So when others are wiping their seats down in the morning you don't have to, plus the air flows better so the seat is not so hot. But in UK this isn't a issue but will be a benefit in hot climates. In summary I'm pleased I have the cover but if your looking for improved comfort this is not the answer, for me anyway. A comfort seat or seat pad will probably be a better option. I'm sure others will disagree but that's my opinion.

Well, there is more costs than just the production isn't there? Design, tooling, quality control, transportation, overhead, storage, taxes, import-duty, guarantee-costs, etc. Usually the dealers gross profit is around 40% or so, which has to pay for his costs. You can always make one yourself, or buy one made to unknown standards directly in China.

Thanks John hope it helps.

Thanks appreciate 👍

Coasting is dangerous if you want to do crack on.

Expense the SHAD ones were halve the price.

Firstly welcome to the channel. I love the bike and I'm really pleased with it. In my opinion it's one of the best bikes out there for me and looks really good. To help I'll focus on the bits I'd improve on mine. 1st. I fitted a side stand foot to mine, with the luggage on the bike it feels a little unsteady on the side stand. I never had an issue but on certain ground it makes me nervous it will fall so I use the centre stand. 2nd getting the bike onto the centre stand is easily doable but fully loaded does take some effort. Other bigger bikes I've had seem easier. Not a real problem just an observation. 3rd the seat is not the best and could be improved its hard and needs improving. 4th Suspension was hard and crashy when new. Its got better with age and I don't intend changing it. Give it a few thousand miles to bed in before making any decisions. 5. Having the fuel filler under the seat is a pain. Something to tolerate. You have to get off to refill and strapping any thing to the back seat is doable but annoying having to remove and refit to get fuel in. 6. Power is fine although it's no race bike. It copes with everything and you can crack on particularly as it handles well, although at motorway speeds it feels like it needs a little more power. It has more than enough torque to still be fun fully loaded. Other than that it's perfect for me. I really like the bike its better than the sum of its parts and very easy to ride. Regarding the screen I had the taller Honda screen from new and I have no issues or complaints about it, but I suppose it depends how tall you are. I'm sure you'll be really pleased with yours. Let me know what you think once you get it.

Cool not sure Greg would be happy with that 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thanks Mal

Hi Dave would be good to get a few more subscribers another 1/2 a million would be good 🤣 but hopefully it helps someone thats the main reason I started this. 👍

Hi I'm no expert on riding economically and I'm sure there are loads of key board warriors who will disagree with me. But I think that riding economically comes down to riding smoothly and planning ahead and avoid braking heavily. Rather than type a novel here I'll try to do a short video later and post it here to share my thoughts.

Riding smooth and avoid constant braking (as Terry mentioned) in as high a gear as possible (without it chugging like it's going to stall) will always be the main way to achieving highest MPG as you're reducing engine rpm. Studies have shown that the ideal economy speed for majority of vehicles is between 50-65mph. Anything more than that and the air resistance increases dramatically. I was getting 85mpg on average with mine. low 80s in town. high 80s/low 90s on A-Roads and motorway. If I decided to ride fast, you'd see the average would drop to 30s/40s! I found changing to a performance air filter and exhaust made the bike less economical in town (high 70s), but on a & b roads, and motorway, it would get low 90s. Also, your economy really depends on the kind of roads you ride. Town/motorway, in quiet or busy traffic etc. loads of factors out of your control that play a part.

Or I was just a bit more enthusiastic with the throttle without it fitted, who knows. I have a 4 day trip planned later this week so I'll see what mileage I get to gallon with all the luggage fitted and see if it differs from test. 😀

Hi Gunslinger 😀 very good point. I'll do that test and let you know.👍 be patient with me and I will get to it.

As promised here are the results of the pannier only test kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3iulJWmp7ydeas

Hey thanks. Very interesting results. 👌

I'll see what I can find out for you. What year is yours? On mine the economy lights only work in standard mode, which it resets to each time the ignition is turned off/on.

@JulianPurcaru hi I've had a look at this. The handbook indicates that the colour mode can be turned off via the screen menus. Mine is a manual and doesn't seem to have this option. It may be available on the DCT. To access the menus hold the select and menu buttons together. Then use the select key to cycle thru the menu sections. To enter the menu press the mode button. You can then use select to change and mode to save and move onto next. I think you want the SP menu the colour off/on mode should be in this menu, but I'm unable to check this on my bike. If its not in the SP menu try the LINE menu. Sorry I can't be more help. If you don't have access to the user owner handbook you can download free online.

www.manua.ls/honda/nc750x-2021/manual?p=2 use this link for the owners manual

@terrysmith-NC750X Terry I appreciate your taking the time to reply and in such detail too. I am currently traveling on the NC taking the long way from Romania to Portugal and I have sporadic access to wifi along the route or I would have replied sooner to say thank you. I have not had a chance to try what you recommend but I will give it a try to see if it works and get back with feedback. Many thanks again and all the best to you 🫡

@JulianPurcaru your trip sounds like a most excellent adventure. Keep safe and enjoy. 👍

Brill👍

Yep nc750 is so economical but I avg high 70s low 80s the 90s was riding economically, on roads without traffic so not truly representative of real life. 👍

Thank you John. Your feedback is really appreciated. I'm looking for ideas for new content so please send me any ideas you have. 👍

Hi Terry. Not being particularly mechanically gifted/confident would be grateful for a video on chain adjustment. I have the 2023 DCT version of our bike and don’t know this would be different to the manual version.

Hi Terry. Not being particularly mechanically gifted/confident would be grateful for a video on chain adjustment. I have the 2023 DCT version of our bike and don’t know this would be different to the manual version.

@johnmitchell-ed9bn Roger that I'll do that next.

No I left the pads off. I used JB plastic weld to stick the extender on and it's still on there. Anything suitable for ABS plastic should be OK.

Hi Terry Thanks just order mine. Hopefully will be fitting it at the weekend.

@edwardmadin8065 let me know how it goes

Just reset the clock and all will be back to normal. With the battery strap try unhooking from the bottom. Some have found it easier.

Hi. With the shad top box arms installed it will be an easy fit for the three point pannier rails. They simply bolt onto the top box arms using the two side holes in the arms. On the left hand side the pannier rail bolts to the pillion footpeg, and on the right to the where the exhaust box fixes to the frame. When you buy the 3P mounting system you are supplied with 2 x brackets, which you won't need if you have the top box fitted. Hopefully that makes sense if not let me know and I'll forward some pictures.

Also this may help kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5KqlI1jjZ6VZ80si=_bEh_6LZVPNZOZJk

Thanks for the reply, good to know.