I think these would work better as knife handle scales rather than bottle opener handles.

Anyone else getting x-tool ads on this video? 🤣

why this shitty loud music?

im doing this with epoxi and PP fibers, works realy well. Nice Work!

When will the American public finally convert to metric? Looks sick for sure! I may need to get a lathe now😍🤣🤣🤣

Should have just used a piece of dull hardened steel would be slow but not ruin ur good tools might need to put a slight edge or ull judt melt the epoxy thr brick would just grind down more than cut

can the xtool S1 carry the 20w fiber laser or do both?

Hey Peter, I have an idea for you to try in a resin video. I noticed while doing my dishes that if you use this new Dawn formula it leaves these almost cotton ball looking clouds in water when you let it settle. Curious if maybe the effect would be possible to replicate in resin? Or maybe some crazy chemical reaction might happen? Either way sounds like fun to watch. Happy new year!

I just realized yall are 2 different people.

“TOP 5 EPOXY RESIN MOLDS”

Thanks for the review. The featherboard link is broken. Can you share the files?

im jealous of the ease of use from your phone to your printer. My printer is several years old and definitely doesnt have that feature. Thats awesome

Try next time using petg instead of pla, it sands way better and it can take heat better (or even abs)

Any suggestion for making the grooves if you have no router?

even the shredder didn't want to shred The Eagles lol

it might be a bit late but used the extra resin gummy bears to make a collide-a-scope

That green one is mesmerizing!!! What a cool idea!!

I use alumalite slow for our blanks. You get some really cool results if you use a Tri extrusion filament with clear resin.

Weird I do 100ml pours into a similar sized mold all the time and haven’t had temp issues unless I use quick cure and even then it was just mild discoloration.

Please don’t make anything that needs to absorb shock to ensure your safety out of PLA

The resin will generate enough heat during curing to deform the print - I know this from experience.

Really cool video! I think there might be an opportunity where you could model and print the shape of the handle closer to the final product shape instead of the block, and minimize the resin/time/waste.

Gyroid hast 2 completely separate sides. so you could fill it up with 2 different colours ;)

I've no idea what I've stumbled into but I'm jumping on board for the ride.

that looks absolutely wonderful and is a stellar idea. my favorite is also the black and green. i think the yellow hexagona pattern would look absolutely fantastic with a golden/orange clear resin, so it resembles a honeycomb for real! i don't know if anyone else has given this same suggestion yet, but i think an extremely cool twist on this concept would be custom-printed infills in the box, like tiling someone's name throughout in cursive in the print. then, when you lathe it, the outside will still have that curly burl-like effect, but on the inside, you can still see their name and it becomes clear.

As someone who just got into 3d printing a few months ago, and who recently got an a1 combo themselves 😂 this is awesome!

Every time he pulls out that pressure vacuum thing, I get very happy for him that he bought it and very happy for me that I gave up on working with resin. I am much too poor for that to be profitable

You don't even need infill for this. It's a tube, it doesn't need an internal support structure. But with a music taste like that you probably aren't capable of that level of thinking

Crazy idea. Try to turn your lathe into a functioning wax cylinder recorder/playback device, you can use something like a needle and a paper cup. A soft resin (if there is such a thing?) could be used as a recording medium

The volume on the music almost made me leave. Levels man.

Need to move up to a .8 nozzle. Will give more line width for the infill pattern. I do this same thing for custom fishing rods I make but I tend to use a voronoi pattern tube, fill, the drill, ream the center for the grip.

Iv done this for the last year drilling holes in parts and filling with ca glue to add stiffness, also spray foam works nicly with low infill

That's really cool. Good job, dude!

With a little bit of 3d modeling know-how, they're also good for making router jigs and templates!

Fyi. PETG would be a lot better to machine as it's not prone to chipping and cracking like PLA.

If you wanted to make a convex shape, you should have used saran wrap stretched over a hoop and allowed to sag naturally when you poured in the resin. Then the shape would have formed naturally. Make two sets. Then use the same resin to glue the halves together. Polish with 1500 or higher and you'll have a magnifying lens you could melt granite with.

In your defense Peter, most 3D printers WERE just toys ten years ago. They've come a long way! So excited to see what else you come up with!

Make a console car replacement too

I have done this with a few parts. I have found that leaving any exothermic curing epoxy under vacuum for that long will overheat. To address this we vac for 30 minutes to 1 hr and then vent. Fast cure get a fan blown on them afterwards to prevent discoloration, voids, and cracking.

They both look cool. I bet if you used regular honeycomb and not 3D honeycomb it would have looked better.

Next put a cylinder in the slicer and use it to cut the hole for your insert.

As soon as I saw you peel off that sticky gunk from the bit I had a bad feeling 😂

As soon as I saw you peel off that sticky gunk from the bit i had a bad feeling 😂

The infill you use makes ALL the difference

Use vibration to help the liquid distribution.

Was recommended this.. what is he doing?

i've just come across this video, got through the vid and thought na nothing for me, but then the rattle can handle is a god send

A translucent orange resin would have been better, imho. Looks great though.

Too bad the full video doesn’t have this infill pattern in it. Would be nice to see how this came out

just buy the featherboard from harbor freight for the price and quality first 2 are better off buying 3rd one and 4th one are good prints the spray paint thing might be worth printing, the cheap one I got from freight doesnt seem to work well at all if youre broke, I found the ebay refurbished creality printers to be more than reasonable quality and only $80-$150 theres a slight learning curve. but very manageable tremendous tool that can literally make other tools. its a no brainer to buy if you have the space for it I just wish there was an easier way to make your own filament at home with recycled material or even failed prints or supports. while affordable, I have a feeling filament cost can add up fairly quick I have a feeling youre one of those types of guys who can come up with a fairly decent solution for that. would love to see a video for that subject from you