This video gave me the courage to repair my own pocket door today and it went really well. The molding came off with the right tools and a little convincing. I don't know how the rear hardware came undone but I was able to reuse everything and glued the bolts to hopefully never have to perform this repair again. One trick I figured out: when reattching the door, lift up the bottom of the door just far enough to slide the handle of a screwdriver underneath. This worked really well and held the door in place long enough to attach the rear hardware. Thanks for posting!

Google how to tighten a packing nut it takes 5 seconds, or just repack it, google repacking a packing nut. so easy.

Have done an experiment to use the plastic in the summer heat to keep out the heat and humidity. And it kept my home cooler in the heat and humidity.

Put new windows in and insulate

Does anyone know what to use to attach the rigid pipe to the wood in the attic for stability??? Tia

Lost me at sharkbite. Unacceptable in any home other than your own haha

You are joking, right?

question, was the water line still off when u did the pressure test on the faucet?

are you nuts? 67 in the day 59 at night =frost bite!

You're the expert not me, but here are five options that may help. 1. Read/watch Marie Kondo and try purging using her methods. 2. Can you store some things at a parents house? Keepsakes are good because parents and grandparents love to look through memories. 3. Try pulling everything out, then spend a couple hours tetris-ing everything back in (like you would with a moving truck ) to reduce the footprint. 4. After opening up some floorspace, can you position your items over rooms that don't use as much heat, like over closets, storage rooms, garage, etc.? Then you have some attic space to insulate over, like over the living room, family room, kitchen, dining, bathrooms, etc. 5. As a last resort, you can insulate the attic ceiling /roof underside. I think they are called cold attics vs warm attics, for people who want to make a loft in their attics, or can't insulate the attic floor for some reason. Hope at least one of these can help you save money. Thanks for the videos.

Make removable, reusable inserts.

You are lucky for low bills. In north Texas our winter bills were $400-$500 in 2023. All brick, 20 yr old home, with electric heat pump. Will be adding plastic this year, on outside of windows.

5 years later and you are still helping people. Thxs for the video. Exactly what I needed after the dogs knocked off the back roller.

I use bubble wrap

What about inflation

all this air leak talk but lets not forget that plastic is also an insulator and without the direct convection the windows create, there is no thermal transfer, thus warmer house and lowered ebill

Covering the windows makes the difference on heating only with a heat pump over the winter or having to supplement the heat pump with the furnace.

the plastic did indeed pay for itself, in material ONLY. Add in LABOR and TIME each year installing and taking down and you are at a net negative... sadly. You are better off sourcing a rigid plastic custom soft foamed sealed frame that can be slid into window from from the inside and then taken down and stored away at your leisure.....

Not worth the time , time is money

When did you get a 4 month heating year in the Midwest

67 in the day and 59 at night? That’s still cold. In Virginia we keep it to 70 year around and my bill is 300 😭

A small tube of Bondo works better and you can Sandown the bondo

YOUR VIDEO SUCKED!!

Thanks for the video. Do you apply the foam outside as well as inside?

1:30 so i had a plumber quote me $800+ to replace this 🤬 im sorry, i know everyone needs to make a living, but that's ridiculous. Plus, i don't even think mine has failed yet. Not leaking, sounds fine.

Very well thought out and laid out video. Very clear communication of the steps. Thanks. I am now taking my pocket door frame apart and I am going to fix it.

I have put marine grade plastic over my windows for years the kind stuff they use on boat or yacht my gas bills drop buy half about 120 to 60 dollars. Yes i'm replacing some of the windows but the plastic work so well i'm not replacing others

I thought you have to open hot water in faucet before you unscrewed the expansion tank; then install new expansion tank and then turn on cold water to let it runs until air burping out.

I put up thick clear plastic. Not the kind you put up. On all my windows. This summer my bill came to 35.00, had air on for 2 day. The heat set at 66. At night and day (am old can't to much cold) best I do so furnace don't run 24 hrs. I also plan of putting up installation on my walls. That is where most cold comes in.

You must live in a well insulated tiny house. Electric and gas heat both

Thank you!

thanks 🙏 im learning how to make my own 💪🏼✌🏻

Not even close dude

Great vid & love the jingle at the end!!

Not the greatest video. How to cust the trim and its corners

Is it mdf or wood. Bord? What material. Please give every detail

I love the thorough approach! Just put them up in my RV last night and already noticing a difference - before I was doubling up on sweaters in the morning, this morning I'm in a T-shirt!

I woke up this morning to a tiny pinhole in the expansion tank spraying a fine mist of water all over the ceiling, wall, and storage shelves next to the water heater. You showed me it's as simple replace as it looks like it should be. And it's great to know about how much to pressurize the unit. One thing, though, is that my old expansion tank has a sticker that says not to tighten it using the body of the tank but rather to use a wrench. It says there is the potential for cracking the inlet by over torquing it. I think if the weld at the inlet is that fragile, something is wrong. But better safe than sorry, I suppose. Nice video - thanks!

That concrete mix looks very runny.

Great job on the windows. Quick tip: Unless you are a pro with spray foam, keep some acetone for cleanup. Know that it can even dissolve cured oil based paints, so if you need to run tape protections beforehand and pull tape when the foam gets rubbery, it may save a sensitive finish. Also, shimming, then running caulk on the outside gives you something to foam against and a much stronger seal against weather and insects. Polyurethane caulk takes a few days to solidify, and needs to be worked with mineral spirits, but it is as solid if not more so than the high performance silicones.

Ours rotted off at the surface . We won’t be using untreated wood in the ground unless it’s Osage orange or Black locust.

This video should be titled "How NOT to Install..." Calling this video a 'How To' and demonstrating this shitty of work is abhorrent

1 inch below the frost line is not sufficient. 6 inches below the recommended depth is the most observed practice.

I hope your next Range Hood Exhaust through the roof turns out better. Thanks for sharing your experience. 😃👍

How about adding a metal L bracket along the bottom to help that leading edge

Great video thanks for the info

Why horizontal? Change to vertical, or install support

isnt braces better then vertical rebar , against crumbling ?

Wrong caulk gets wet we come off

This stuff is easy to put on and works immediately. The blow drier makes the plastic look just like the window too.