Is there any benefit, other than the initial purchase price, of choosing a smaller pack vs a larger? My EV has a 98 kwh but they also offer a 130 kwh. I had to choose the smaller pack because of cost, but I'm hoping cost is not the only upside.

Given that these batteries are lasting so long for people who do small DOC's. Someone/something should put a program in place for this so you can advertise that your battery's health is far above average because of how well you took care of it. Additionally there should be a program to roll used EV batteries into grid/home storage instead of using brand new batteries for grid/home storage. The better condition the battery the more valuable it is and the more the company/program will pay the user to take the battery when they choose to get rid of the car. That way we aren't throwing EV's into trash piles, we can at least repurpose the batteries into another application. Once they have completely died then look to recycle them completely etc. If someone came up with a way to transfer your EV battery into someone using it for a house battery then that would be killer. You could buy solar and then just use the used EV battery for the storage. That way they don't have to buy another array of batteries for the house and then waste the old EV battery. You take out two birds with one stone basically

Question: When we are talking about "depth of discharge" is it more useful to think of it in terms of the delta on the Voltage curve or just in terms of SOC? If you had to choose wouldn't you base this off the voltage curve instead? I was just thinking about this since clearly the slope is much steeper at higher SOC's than at say 40-50% SOC. Didn't know if keeping the charge in that flatter voltage curve area of 40-50% would give you more battery life. That's to say the slope of the curve is in a way causal to how long it would last

The best explanation of prolonging battery life I have seen so far

Can you imagine a government that will allow its population to drive for zero cost,it'll never happen

Very well done. I quibble a bit with his assessment of the charging network for non-Teslas but it will catch up in time. I feel the blanket 100% tariff on Chinese EV's is a mistake. It will seriously impair the climate goals in Canada and the USA. It could have been more intelligent. The EU did it by manufacturer based on their subsidies. Or, perhaps by class of cars to supply the lower end of the market.

I have a model 3 rwd and it saves me $500 a month on fuel costs alone. Way more features including autonomous make my driving experience much better. Great video guys!

With the 100% tariff, no reason for North American manufacture's to make an affordable EV.

So if I dc fast charge 50 to 30% daily will it hurt the battery

New to newish owners need not worry about the battery pack. Used BEV shoppers will have to take the risk of higher replacement costs or worse, lack of availability. Best to make sure manufacturers have packs to offer and reasonable prices. Many want 200-300% of what Tesla asks. For ICE, lots of scrapped ones or cheaper rebuilds, available battery packs not so common at scrap yards.

We need talon Metals to mine in Minnesota and Michigan.

Too much ‘my mind is made up, don’t confuse me with the facts.’

Nobody wants to by in to your chinizium fake investment portfolio. Your trying to sell fake EVs to everyone, ooooo the world is melting , give us your money forever,!!!!!!!!! . Not !!!!!!!!! So step off CANADA , .

Chinese EV owners freezing their butts off because they can't run the heater for fear of being stuck in transit, charging rates doubled and tripled. That's the world I live in.

Great information. Thank you again.

This was another great discussion. Two other hard sells, and I must say hard pills that I had to swallow when I went full EV, are higher insurance cost and much higher EV tire cost. 1. Full EV's right now tend to be higher end SUV-type vehicles and therefore higher cost which equals higher insurance. We do not have enough small car choice for lower price. My insurance company also gave me the whole speel about higher costs due to not having enough history and statistics on EVs leading to higher costs that "should" lower over time. 2. The tire costs can be quite high, especially when a lot of the EV platforms come with specialized tires and typically larger sizes. All of that being said, the long term cost will and should be lower than petrol equivalents, but the initial cost is high and likely what is scaring most people. These facts, along with a lot of EV myths. I was also happy to learn that the used EV market is starting to get a foothold.

I just got my first EV the last week in June. It is a 2021 SOUL EV Limited fully loaded with only 17,700 km on it. It was first put on the road in June 2021 so I have two years of main warranty and 5 years of battery warranty left on it. It has been a great car so far and our second car (a VW Sportwagen) is in the garage so far. The Soul was less than 34,500 Canadian tax in.

Good discussion. NZ removed rebates/incentives for EV's due to change in government and cost. No tariffs on car imports. Also added RUC, Road User Charge, which is a km/mile permit for using the road infrastructure paid in gasoline taxes, but not diesel and now EV. Governments need to recover the roading cost beyond sales taxes.

Great discuss 😊🥰🤣✳️✴️

Excellent podcast. Some really great information here, viewed from both sides of the coin.

I own a full EV now and it has to be said that there are some significant cost considerations that people need to keep in mind. 1. The cost of good EV tires is sometimes double the price that people might be used to and this needs to be considered when purchasing. 2. The cost of insurance, at least right now, can be considerably more than what you paid for a petrol vehicle. One of the main reasons for this is that we do not have any small, cheap EVs in mass production right now. Most are larger sedans and SUVs at high price, so the insurance is higher. I had a long conversation with my insurance company about the high rates and their response was of course focused around new technology with a lack of long-term statistics to help bring the rates down. This will change over time, but it can be quite costly right now. These things being said, I love my EV and will not go back. But I bought it to reduce tailpipe emissions in my city. It does not start saving money until you can break even, which will vary greatly depending on your choice of EV and the other costs associated to the initial purchase and setup. It may seem like I am being negative, but I just want to be 100% realistic in that right now EVs are not easy to get into for everyone. The cost of even petrol vehicles is high and "most" of the current EVs on the market are targeting the smaller part of the population who can afford 65k + on a new vehicle. Yes, there are some EVs on "fire sale" because the companies that produce them are failing or already failed, but buying an EV without a support chain may not be the best option. On a related note to this great podcast, my partner was a big part of my decision to go full EV. She is contemplating an EV as well, but looking into the financials has shown that she will not save money since she just paid off her petrol vehicle and does not drive enough to save significantly on fuel. She prefers to wait a few years before making this leap.

As for the Federal Program for EV's used for at least 70% business use for self-employed people, are the Net earnings the minimum amount one must have earned or is it up to that amount? Also, are there any incentives in this program for electric scooters/Low speed motorcycles? I couldn't find very much inforatmion about that on the EMC website.

On your map of EV/Battery Production - AutomMaker Investments at ~27 min in, why doesn't Ingersoll have a red dot for the CAMI plant? Their first BrightDrop Electric delivery van rolled off the production line in Dec/2022. They had switched to completely electric production. Is it because they're only making delivery vans and not vehicles for the general population?

Doesn't really apply to modern EVs. The BMS cuts of around 10% and doesn't allow you to come close to 100% (4.3v per cell) which would be insanely stupid. Why didn't he clarify that this doesn't apply to EV but actually mislead viewers including yourself apparently? Even more interesting is how at 39:40 in the video he promotes the new crystal tech and shows life cycle info but between 3.1v to 4.1v charge cycles which is FAR from 100%.

Love this video! It’s such an honor to be mentioned (50:30) by one of my friends, coworkers, & heroes - Jeff Dahn …and then for this video to be referenced and linked several times by another personal hero, Jason Fenske …just amazing :) PS - My 2015 Model S just rolled over 500K kms last week, and now maintains ~81.6% of it’s original range, and I charge almost daily to 90% SOC.

This is all great news as I plan to be looking for a new EV to replace my OG 2011 LEAF. I sure hope my experience will be better in the future than that original LEAF. I've got nearly 300,000 km on it, and the 2nd battery has again reached 60% of its capacity. I'm in Ontario. The car is still useful and currently it's used only for small trips. The original LEAF battery was a POS unfortunately, and I'll likely lease my next EV to protect myself, but these newer battery chemistries look much better. Great video.

Gonzalez Helen Clark Michelle Perez Mary

Net zero, decarbonization, carbon offsets, and carbon credits are simply the latest version of a centuries-old scam in which self-serving frauds would take people's money, and often their life savings, to save them from imaginary or real problems. These are scammers.

great atmosphere and scientific and practical enthusiasm

2013 chevy volt, 130k miles on the odom (210km). new it got 38 miles, now its only getting 50-55mi. lol

Nice and informative talk. Our 1th gen Renault Zoë is now more then 10y old and has still about 90% SoH. At least another 10y to go.

Nice.

Good stuff. Have owned several Teslas since 2015. Staying away from the top end of the battery SOC makes a lot of sense. With my Cybertruck I only use 5% of the battery on there way to work or 10% round trip. So based on the info from Dr Dahn, I plan on just charging to 50% each time and only charging past 50% when going on roadtrips. 50% is still 158 miles of range, so no problem for normal daily extra trips. So far with 7500 mile on the OD, I have only lost 2 miles of range 316 vs 318. My last vehicle, Model Y, lost 5% in its first 10K miles.

sounds like the battery chemistry should be on the sticker on the window. Just like you'd know what kind of engine a car has. There should be best practices that comes with the vehicle that tells you how to properly care for the battery.

Moral of the story: for Nickel chemistries, if you can manage to charge your battery to 75% or less it will basically last Forever

Great video guys. Very helpful in understanding our batteries better. Thanks !

Fantastic app. I just grabbed this today when charging my new Solterra and it worked perfectly at a local circuit électrique station. I am really excited to use this on long trips.

They probably have the ChargePoint app that I have seen at local Ikeas in Ottawa. ChargePoint and ChargeHub look similar.

Amazing content! Would love to better know what Tesla uses in their older 18650 cells.. and what factors besides temperature would cause a battery to fail? Mfg defects?

Thnx allot for sharing this information! I’m planning to buy my first EV (audi e-tron) and i’m really at ease now because i really dont need any more than 85km a day. So if i charge the battery only to 50% right before i leave, i will always have enough energy at my disposal 🙌🏼

Hello everyone, thank you for this interesting programs... My car doesnt have the option to charge to 75%. So i Have to calculate the amperres ant the time to get that 75% and the programmed wallbox between hours makes the work... It shouldbe great to charge from 5% to 5% as an option, but I only have 10 plus 10 ... 50 90 70 80 90 100 you know... Thank you

Does anyone know which Canadian law encouraged L2 chargers at Canadian national parks? We could use L2 chargers at US national parks.

The EV Society may want to push for standardized battery health reports. Similar to drive clean testing drivers could take their vehicles to facilities that can offer this testing report service.

We are over thinking this. The battery software on the screen tells us what level to charge to. Just follow those instructions. Those instructions are based on all this information presented. Why presume we know better after watching KZbin?

Power to grid: The inverter senses if the grid is up. It does this by phase shifting. Because the voltage is AC it can check if the grid is up by monitoring the phase. This is a solved and a completely non issue.

Priceless info right here. I will be charging my EV more often now. Thank you.

He said we need safety drivers then said humans are terrible at paying attention 😂😂😂 and said humans aren’t qualified lol

I don’t understand his contention that leaving LFP batteries are 100% is not an issue which he repeated several times. From everything I have read and understand from the chemistry charging to 100% is important on the software side to calibrate the SOC, but the basic underlying chemistry remains that 100% charge especially at high heat is bad for any lithium battery including LFP Sequestering all the ions to one electrode plus adding heat to drive chemical reactions is never good for a battery regardless of whether NMC or LFP. That’s why the Tesla manual says to charge to 100% once a week and the Ford manual says once a month. Neither says leave it at 100% continuous.

If it is recommended to charge your NMC battery only to 75%, shouldn't manufacturers of these vehicules be forced to promote them with driving ranges at 75% battery instead of the more theoretical 100% capacity? It will favour manufactures that offer superior chemistry like LFP that you can actually use daily charged to 100%. As a consumer I feel the 75% use is deceptive marketing if you state 100% charge distances...

One thing about LFP he didn't mention is the advances in energy density that have developed over time which has allowed greater use in EV's. It's gone from around 120Wh/kg at the cell level to 200Wh/kg, which gets it close to NMC around 250Wh/kg.