Thanks for sharing learning how to pick good tires that works best for my truck thanks again bro ❤

The '86-'95 Toyota torsion bar IFS suspension "experts" are perhaps more misguided. They seem to think the torsion bar adjusting bolts change the torsion spring rate or "preload" as it's commonly said. The adjusting bolts are just jack screws that change the position of the bars so assembly line workers could even the ride height front-to-rear and side-to-side at the factory. "Cranking" the adjusting bolts raises the front of the truck because the torsion bars are in a new position, NOT because they're now stiffer. And the ride is now "stiffer" because the IFS now tops out more frequently AND the front control arms force the front tires to scrub more laterally.

as a 30 year yota owner that uses both truck and suv, daily in mud, swamp, farm...the narrow tire is way better and less bogg. As long as you are moving slow, in a toyota, you will get through.....just keep it slow!

About to order the supplies for this setup! - What gauge wire should I use from the battery? (I am thinking 8 AWG?) It seems others have used anywhere between 4 & 8 gauge from what I've seen so far.

I hope Toyota never loses its ways, they single handedly prop the entire industry up when it comes to longevity, dependability and ingenuity

The pizza cutter doing better in snow is not cut and dried. It depends on the type of snow. I live near Whitewater in BC. We get HUGE dumps. I’ve found that pizza cutters dig down but can’t always find bottom. Or they find bottom but are pushing too much snow. A 285/75/18 is kinda mid… not too wide, not to narrow and performs incredibly well in our kinda snow. My buddy two hours away in Cranbrook swears by his pizza cutters. They get WAY less snow and it’s more granular and less fluffy.

Very thorough testing, you know your stuff. I grew up in Wyo 4wd country, we always go for a narrower tire in tough 4wd conditions. We run wider tires for floatation in snow n sand. Although your 3nd choice is intriguing. Tire companies sell wide tires for the Kool factor.

Good step by step on your thought process for overland Ecoflow charging solutions.

There is one other variable not address which affects tire deformation. The weight of vehicle versus the tires max load based on PSI. Those Baja Boss A/Ts were not identical in load per PSI, the 315s had a max load of 3,195 lbs @ 65 psi while the 255s had a max load of 3,195 lbs @ 80 PSI. Meaning, as the corner weight of the vehicle is constant, the belt structure of the 255s will be lost much sooner because the loss of PSI will deform tires ability to maintain the load. These were designed for a much heavier vehicle and you should weigh the corners your vehicle. Hypothetically, lets say the corner of your FJ weighs 860 lbs. For the 315s to maintain structural integrity and constant tread pattern you would have to inflate the 315s to 860 lbs / 3,195 lbs * 65 PSI = 17.5 PSI versus 860 lbs / 3,195 lbs * 80 PSI = 21.5 PSI. Same goes for the BF Gs KM3s, they are 3,195 lbs @ 75 PSI, this means at lower PSI for the weight of your vehicle they will have better deformation (in addition the design of the tire and side wall structure). The results of this test would be different with a vehicle and those Mickey Thomasons In all my vehicles, I weigh the corners of them with me in the vehicle. I then inflate the tires to the PSI based on the load rating of the vehicle + 3%. For example, on my current Tunrdra on the tires, I run 25 PSI left front, 24 PSI right front, and 19 PSI rear on BF G A/T KO2s. I've been doing this for 35 years with perfect tread wear and long last tires with 70,000 miles easily. Every time I put a load on the vehicle, I inflate tires based on the load, I also deflate the tires when I remove the load. Every time, I go into the shop Toyota inflates the tires based on the door PSI, but that was meant for a 31" tire. Therefor, the tires will be bulging down the center because the tire was rated for a heavier vehicle. I just deflate in the parking lot after I leave. Make sense?

The fact the he exposes the tire company sponsorship situation nonchalantly makes the video that much better lol

There is zero evidence that the 4th gen frame will rust any less than previous gens….time will tell

You can park on an uphill for better angle 😂

What about the people removing sway bars and replaced with shocks, Also can you test it with a RAM truck as I didn't find something related to my 2019 RAM 1500 dt 5th Gen

I’m glad such an I depth video has gained so many views, definitely worthy of it man. 3m views and counting

If you were to install the kdss electronic on/off mod (I think dr.kdss?) would that improve the off camber stability issue experienced?

Extraordinarily good video man.... Thank you for all of your efforts. I hate you are well. Rewarded

Super important on rich soccer mom $80k vehicle

Most KZbinrs are trying to convince owners to add 1000lbs to our trucks with bigger tires, steel bumpers, winches, light bars to the point our payload is zilch. Most trucks are better stock than when most people get done modifying them.

I am a life long Toyota lover. Currently have a 4th gen t4r that I use for overlanding and off roading. Has never let me down and always gets back home without issues. I have been searching for a 80 series Land Cruiser for sale. But 23k for a used one with 180k is ridiculous. Used Toyota prices are pushing me towards a used rubicon, their off road capability might be a worthwhile exchange for Toyota reliability

I will be in the market soon for a Toyota 4Runner and the fact that KDSS makes the car feel better ONROAD is convincing me to pay the premium for the right truck.

So following your advise ( going with skinnier tires can I go 33 without a lift ( 2023 Gx 460) I am going for an Australian overlanding built

Wide tire is better. My friend and I both had jeeps with the same type of tire but mine were 12.50's and his were 10 and I would easily rock crawl things while he would slip and slide and have trouble.

I just did a 2” lift on my 2008 4Runner with no diff drop. Axles are parallel with the ground, so hopefully no issues

On my 2008 4Runner I went with 2” lift front and rear, jba uppers, superpro offset lowers, and 265/70r17 on stock wheels. Clearance is great. I used to like big tires that stick out past the fenders and stuff the wheel wells, but as I’ve gotten older prefer more wheel travel and not slinging debris all over my vehicle. Not to mention going to a 285 would only give me 1/2” or so more ground clearance

With respect, a better way to do it is a voltage cut-off charging relay. They charge your car battery first until it reaches full (great because you probably dropped it a bit running the lights, radio, etc), then when full switches over to your house bank (or this case all in one power station) and charges it until full. All automatic. You never look at the unit, and they only cost about $100. Mine tops my 300amp bank in In my van in less than an hour depending on drop. In my van build the charging relay does 80% of the work, solar the rest when I'm sitting and not running the van much. I'm surprised they haven't built one into one of the power station units yet, and sell the wiring kit. They're bascially the same as what you're using, but also serve the function of charging your car bat, and all automatic,,, and cheaper.

Did EcoFlow send you an eval unit of their new 800w alternator charger? Sounds like an even better solution. Would love to see a review!

Awesome video! Thank you!

I have already seen the new GX 550 overtrail, and I think that for a better look and to occasionally go soft off-road and overlanding, I should raise it 3 inches and change the suspension, similar to your FJ Cruiser. With this in mind, it would be better to buy a standard GX 550 and not the overtrail. What do you think?