@dhillon115 yes heat one for 2 min and then air flow starts again and all is good

Truck is over 400k no light.

Lucky you, mine did the same thing. And now module needs to be changed

What I noticed is that the AC only freezes over when I have my window open and the AC is not set to maximum cold if it's two or three clicks up it will freeze over with the windows open but as long as I have it on the coldest setting to the left I can drive with the windows open and it doesn't freeze over probably has something to do with humidity and airflow in the position of the freeze over sensor in the coil

​@@ne7s29what exactly was the fix?

@SinisterJacob the fix is turn on heat for 2 min with fan high till u feel air blowing through the vents which means the ac coil unfroze. My friend on his new volvo has the same issue.

@@ne7s29 thank you I did it the other driving out of Houston and worked like a charm

Everything in my situation work no trip fuses all the actuators work I could feel them moving when I took the dashboard apart and you can hear the fan blowing the coil was frozen over because there was ice on the bottom of the HVAC box

Exact same thing that happened to me actually just happened all I know is when I tripped the fuse back within 5 minutes I had full blow.. you had me thinking bad connection on the coil defroster maybe that was the fuse I tripped

@@ne7s29I got the same problem, same scenario. Did u fix it?

Same thing just happened to my 24 International MV did you guys figure out what the problem was?

@@empiretowing951 the AC coil inside the truck freezes over you have to turn on the heat for one or two minutes until the are starts coming out of the vents and then go back to AC try playing with taking fresh air outside or just doing recirculation in the truck

Filter is clean. The freon I'm guessing is low and therefor freezes over. It's low 30psi at 90f and should be close to 45psi at 90f. Prob was charged as a day cab not sleeper at the factory.

Short answere is yes but not really. That would be like asking can I start off in 3rd gear and then go to 1st then second. To properly release heat inside your tank you need s properly designed coil.

They have caught on in the US this year. Mitsubishi came out with a mono block unit this year.

The short answer to that is no because you would have to reprogram the original computer from the Mini split. that is why I stated to use this exact brand of many split. Because when it turns on and runs at full speed, its efficiency is still very, very good. Most many splits at full speed have a horrible efficiency.

Thank you very much for quick response! What do you think about other brands, Japanese of course like Daikin, Mitsubishi, Panasonic and etc?

@@slusajgledajpazi7556 Honestly, they are good in the general range. As a car at 55 miles an hour, many cars have good fuel mileage, but if you floor them, some have decent fuel mileage, and some have poor fuel mileage. the same goes for heat pumps. The other Japanese brands have a good general rating for efficiency. But under full load, they suffer 30 to 40% loss and efficiency. this L. G brand at full capacity. 5°F outside temperature produces rated capacity at Ar COP of 300%. Most other brands run 200% at full capacity at 5 Fahrenheit. If not, less, some Chinese brands are at 180%.

I just read your description and think I understand the point of this video better.

Yes. If you send I can install on truck and do review.

Unit has been running for 2 years. 6ppl and no issue with doing dishes and showers one after another.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vLgqOmlLN1gdEsi=8X7aFFeVd4E5vLCr Seems easy. But perhaps you have another indoor unit? Remove one cable at the time and see if it works

I needed exact size of pipe and leather in tank so I had to make my own. Th bigger portion of the heating coil is on the bottom of the water tank and that is after I did a few test trails prior to permanently placing the coil in tank. I tried it more to the top and then middle. The way it is now heated the water evenly and as the top reaches 125f the bottom is not cold. Maybe 115f. The heat from coilmon bottom goes to the top all by its self when heating so no point of placing it on top and as the top of the tank gets up to 125f its easier for lower part of the tank to receive the heat since the coil is there. Works best this way. Most of the coil on bottom and some middle and less on top. I looked through many pictures of other tanks and they looked similar. The fan motor need to run for heat pump to not have codes. With no fan attached it uses very little power.

Yes, so the vehicle is not getting as hot as it wants to. And it will stay in that mode until it Heats up properly. So what I suggest is you can stop and leave the car on. Which is what I did and it will stay on for UP to an hour or more And run very hot to clean up the oil. Ultimately what it's trying to do is drive any moisture out from the oil by getting it hot. The annoyance is that the vehicle will not run in the electric mode properly when the clean oil mode turns on... So if that mode is on, just parked the car and leave it on, it will get pretty hot.

@@ne7s29 Idled the car yesterday in 85ºF weather and the car would not go above 210º for Oil and motor kept cycling. I had already tried adding 5+ gallons of fuel. Also tried resetting the oil life indicator, car is only 6 months from build and less than 800 miles when it first entered FORM. I drove over 100 miles yesterday and didn't shut it off for over 2.5 hrs and it never got hot enough despite sitting and idling several times. This morning after a 15 mile drive I let it idle and it finally did heat up and exceeded 230ºF Oil - BUT how do you know when it exits the mode? Does the message go away without interaction? Of course that is moot since to watch the oil temp I had to press a key resulting in the FORM message disappearing. Is it possible to monitor via OBD port if FORM is active, or I suppose next time I will monitor oil temp via OBD and leave the FORM message on the dashboard.

@@ne7s29 I think it's trying to get the oil to temp to vaporize gasoline that's in the engine. At least that's what I've read elsewhere.

I built lifepo4 batteries 12v 280ah each from 18650batterystore.com. 2x of them gives me 15-25hrs depending on outside temp.

I have many other videos showing this unit running in house. Been 2 years. No issues. No weird compressor noise. No loss of heating output.

In one mns eyes a disaster and in another's a work of art. To each his own. Law of relativity

@ne7s29 I guess it really depends, did this end up working safely and reliably or did you destroy two expensive appliances? What was the plan to make the high pressure water storage vessel safe after you cut into it snd destroyed the glass lining?

@@cheekybastard99 the other videos explain they rest. Working well for few years.

The flair that you are mentioning is not but it into it, it's actually passing completely through.

Your water temp would need to be near freezing, otherwise by morning you wouldn’t be dehumidifying the air. Target water temp: 40F.

I'll put up another video. Maybe today. All is well

@@AndreyBushmich That would be awesome. Thanks for the update.

​@@markotomic8981 kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooTUZXyeZ7CZeM0si=mFH-swYb4hOjoRSS

Having same issues and I bought from original company

I got mine from big toys green county and I’m having the same issues. Terrible company and product. Please don’t waste your money