I am sorry about this delayed response. The advantage to the BRX90 is you won't need to purchase leaf mounts separately. The 90s also offer a closer to stock pin to pin width that allows more wheel options to maintain a width if that matters. The Ar44 setup does have an advantage of better shock mount location and my personal opinion they are better comp axles. Other than that all positives really do support the BRX90 axles. The motor clock is a great mod. It has no cons as long as you switch to the short length link. Here is a link to well, the link lol. rcaddict.com/products/tf2-brass-steering-link-kit-53mm

Thank you for watching along!

Hello, Funny you mention the diamonds as I'm actually currently running them. I will put a picture up in the discussion section so you can see. With the motor clock, any center pumpkin axle you run will have a little rubbing at full compression between the transmission housing and the driveshaft. The rubbing can be reduced depending on the drivshaft used. I recommend the BoomRacing badass or Vanquish deivshafts and set them up so the narrow part(hex shap) is near that section of transmission. In the picture I will post up I still haven't corrected my driveshaft. I need to shorten the female driveshaft side for more clearance. Honestly the rubbing is expected and really doesn't diminish anything performance or reliability wise. I have been doing it for years lol.

Thanks for this - good tip for the driveshaft...also are you happy with the SSD diamonds? I know SSD also make an offset axle (with the metal tubes and axle shafts) I wonder if it could be adapted to have the pumpkin on the left??@@axletwisterrc4526

Lol we are on the same wavelength. I just literally posted the picks and mentioned the offset trail king axle assembly as a potential option.

Honestly SSD are not my favorite. They are nice and do a decent job but I have had failures on the metal tubes and failures on the plastic where the screws hold the tube in place.

Haha funny that - great minds!But these Diamonds are just until I can find a set of Rock Jocks :)...or I could settle for F9 scx10 ii straight axles. @@axletwisterrc4526

Thanks for watching!

Hello Jeremy, Are you on Facebook by chance?

Absolutely! One of my favorite events.

@Axle Twister RC Mine too! I live 45 min south of BTC 🤓

I am about 6.5 hr northeast

Thanks!

@@axletwisterrc4526 yw

Hello Steven, In terms of axles I have run the stock Yota2, BoomRacing phat AR44 and SSD Diamonds housings. They all have pros and cons to them. For the parts and selling stuff I think you have me confused with someone else. I don't run a store or sell anything. I just love tiny trucks and helping where I can.

Thanks!

That's great to hear!

Thanks for the update!

It has a A&M Garage anti-wrap bar on the rear.

Thanks!

Thanks for watching!

In fact everything done in this video is provided as written instructions on Castles website. It just works and has never caused negative effects. Not doing this has proven to infact cause issues, especially when using in water. I am actually way more cautious in this video than needed. Castle had a extra section for this on the website now they just list it in the FAQ section. You can find it using the link below. It is #12 last paragraph. support.castlecreations.com/mamba-monster-x-faq-2

Thanks for watching!

No this was the first generation of Hobbywing Axe. It was only offered in a standard. The L came later on as the next generation.

In this video they are the Axial SCX10.2 kit ICON II shocks. Axial 10.3 90mm shocks are what I currently have on it.

Yes all the ESCs pull power from the same battery. The winch ESCs use a thinner gauge wire that is easier to hide and manage.

The fan has absolutely nothing to do with throttle control or arming the esc. Make certain you didn't bump your throttle trim on the radio because if the esc can't 0 the throttle, it won't arm. The only possibility beyond that would be if you pulled on the fan white plug without holding the plastic on both sides. It's very unlikely you moved the main harness enough to disconnect things but its a good idea for you to check. If you removed the main plug that is black and has the receiver wires,fan wires and on off switch wires please verify you put it back in the correct direction. All I can assure is any throttle input issue can't be caused by the fan not being plugged in. Please let me know if you would like any further info.

@@axletwisterrc4526 for some reason it was the Bluetooth link, basically bricked the esc.

Thanks for viewing and the feedback!

No clue what clickbait you are referring about tbh.

@@axletwisterrc4526 “do not try this on your rig!”

Not click bait at all. I was asked to make multiple warnings about putting the leaf springs through that kind of test. Wasn't my idea😉.

@@axletwisterrc4526 oh I see. Sorry man😂

No worries lol. Trust me I have no intrest in click bait. I'm not driven by subscribers numbers or bringing new subscribers. I literally dont even share my own KZbin unless i have a solution to a specific problem that is better explained in a video format. I am however driven by the want to help people in this hobby. I hope people new or old discover awnsers to a question or at the least a different perspective.

Thanks for watching!

Hello David, First off thanks for the feedback on the videos. My thoughts on the zbox and revolver shackles is it just isn't my thing. Please only take this as my personal perspective. It is important that you do as you want and what you would enjoy. I never want to say only 1 way should be done. No right or wrong exits in with these tiny trucks until we get into backwards wiringof electronics etc. One main reason why I don't get into them is im just not into flex as all. I like a well planted and predictable truck. Equal to that reason is I also like to beat the hell out of my truck and using the mentioned parts can add the opportunity for failure in a increase of broken leaf springs as well as the option parts themselves. Please make your rig your own and experiment. Enjoy the hobby! I'm always here if you need any assistance.

@@axletwisterrc4526 I appreciate you taking the time to reply! For now I’ve just taken the internal springs out of the shocks and the smallest leaf spring. I’m going to drive the hell out of it and only mod slowly overtime, but I’m having a blast as is. PS it’s also cool how you involve your son in the UTSE vid, mine are a little too young 3.5 and 2 so they would think they are toys, but I definitely want to take them since we’re here in FL. Thanks for the vids, I’ve learned a ton.

By flipping the case and having it the way you are talking this will work with the A&M Garage metal skid/transfer case kit. However and let me caution you on this it will put the truck in a heavy overdrive configuration that most likely your motor and esc will not like. It will create alot of heat.

@@axletwisterrc4526 I didn't have to move any of the shaft/gears around, just flip the housing upside down, so it shouldn't be overdriven, should it? all 3 still spin at the same speed.

As soon as you put the intermediate shaft on the same side as the rear you will have overdrive on the original shaft that use to be where the intermediate shaft was. This happens because the original shaft (single output) served as the transmission input and the tcase used gear reduction to turn the double output shaft slower. If you look in the t-case in my video you will see the gears are not the same size. Anytime the gears get larger or smaller even by a tooth or 2 a gear ratio change is happening. When all the gears are the same size no gear ratio change has occurred. As soon as the intermediate shaft goes on this particular tcase to the double shaft side whatever you put on the single output side will be overdrive.

That might be an option down the road.

That is correct!

@@axletwisterrc4526 LOL I knew I have family from PA I'm just across the border in Ohio... 👍

Hello Lui, I have done many builds for people and every single T-Case I have done needed some sort of removal. Its easy to tell if yours will need it. Just look down inside the universal and verify if the input shaft clears. Make certain to move the drivdhaft to the angle it will see while running. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I am always happy to help.

Thank you! Will check. I ordered some file anyways so ill shave it off to make sure. Do you still have your tf2? Hope we see more tf2 content! You have some of the best tf2 tutorials out there. 👍

Yes I still have the TF2. I have been considering selling it or doing a complete scale build around it and getting rid of the comp look of it.

He Shipped the same day he received the shipment of Gen 8s. How is what the Shipping company done his fault? He has extremely fast shipping. He ships the same business day and only shows actual stock on his website. Can't ask for anything better. For the record this was the only thing that ever got messed up with shipping. All my other orders I have received within 2 to 3 days tops. Can't really ask for more than that.

Lol I am about a year behind at this point. Thanks for checking out the channel!

Thank You!