The teal body that chases the video car is an addiction brand nissan S15 street with custom sticker livery on a Yokomo sxiii

Those springs have been on backorder since we made the video unfortunately. Get a set of soft 32mm tuning springs from MST

Shimmed the chassis plate mounts a few mm and swapped for slightly longer screws. Same trick has worked for me on numerous chassis that can have that same issue such as the Usukani’s.

@@ScaleScience can you make a video on it plz because I tried and the servo horn hits the top deck🙏🙏🙏

@@haroldthompson4453​​⁠rather than make a video on something like that, just join our fb group (Scale Science RC) or send us a message.

Likely an alignment issue causing a bind. Make sure everything is equal length side to side and that you used the correct size and shape ball ends

@ScaleScience I might have found the issue. I'm using an old hpi altezza body that's 256 wb, so I tried shortening the sakura (like a dummy) from the front by removing spacers on the arm pins. Then I saw how to do it the RIGHT way by flipping the rear arms. All that is fixed now so hopefully restoring the front geometry will stop the steering bind. Will try tonight. Thanks for responding!

Thank you sir!

The 2 Trans idler gears are still redcat, as is the rear shock tower lol. Unfortunetly redcat doesn’t make any toe block option parts yet so those will likely stay until they do. As for the front being different, It’s not divulged in the series yet but in ep 9 we will again swap for another front end for testing sake with a plan for episode 10 to be a deep dive into all of the series modifications made, if they are worth it after some months of testing or what I would do differently. This specific instance of example in our series would be best viewed from the lense of someone building an “all in” competition level performance chassis with very specific handling characteristics in mind. These settings will be tailor fit to our specific track’s layout and surface so by no means will this information translate to all. More so, showcasing what our scale science conversion chassis is capeable of and how you can literally plug anything you want into the front end should you be in search of something more refined or adjustable then the stock front end platform offers. I’d like to reiterate that this isn’t the only way to make a redcat perform, it’s just another way!

@@ScaleScience what do you mean about optional toe block parts ? Don't they come with different blocks or do you mean different way to position the toe blocks? Sorry I'm just a acasinal drifter and I'm still on a all stock rds learning to drift I can get around the track decent but still hit a wall or 2 getting around

@@Organized-_-Chaosokay so in simplest terms, these Yokomo toe blocks are wider. The additional width changes the hinge location of the arm. That change is helping me better adjust my roll center since changing out to narrower rear arms (back in episode 2 or 3?) the redcat comes with differnt interchangeable pills allowing you to change the toe of the rear end, however they do not yet have a wider block option.

@ScaleScience oh ok I get what you ment so a wider base help and I guess that mean you can have a shorter a arm for the rear??

Thanks Donavin!

We could Never give up! Just some time away. I need help creating! Haha

Mine has aluminum Toe blocks, aluminum steering bridge and Yokomo dampers and shreds the doors off of anything around.

We did a video on it too. The conversion chassis isn’t mandatory, but helped. Unfortunetly that company is no longer in business but I was able to essentially duplicate my findings on another rtr so I’d say give this tagged video a watch. MST RMX 2.5 S - FAST FACTORY RC CONVERSION - SCALE SCIENCE kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKXEc3maaK6jmMU

Absolutely right. Realized after posting I did t explain it great. I wanted to push my weight up high while keeping it centralized on the chassis to hopefully aid in exit speed while allowing some lean. When I was perpendicular I loved the roll but exit speed suffered

Yokomo big bores, 1.2 tapered pistons, 100cst /10wt oil, topline 32mm yellow springs front and 32mm pink springs rear.

Thank you guys! Couldn’t have showcased it without your help driving!

Hopefully the same type problem so it’s an easy fix lol

@@ScaleScience my drive cup seemed bigger than the others and wasn’t sitting properly another easy fix. I built my own kraton with all the best parts from the ground up … as of just now other than greasing the diffs it’s ready to rock. Currently it’s a max 6 but once I work out the kinks I have all the stuff for a dual motor max 6 for some reason I just wanna do speed runs … blah blah blah lol

Dig through any of the tech Tuesday videos in our archive. Also the rtr series or redcat series

@@ScaleScience ok thx

One of my personal favorites! Love how easy it is to tune

Glad it helped! Cheers Joe

Not that I recall

@@ScaleScience damn. Myself and one other guy at my track both have new NGE’s and both have the issue…

@@grantchamberlain2508​​⁠any slip in the out drive protectors? Make sure that you didn’t mix up the internal idler gears in the trans.

@@ScaleScience all gears in the correct place. Stripped trans and checked, also no visible marks or damage that I can find that would indicate an issue.. there’s some slop in the outdrive’s/protectors. Waiting on a clsd and yokomo protectors, see if that helps 🤷‍♂️

@@grantchamberlain2508you should post this on our FB page or discord so we can see or hear the issue first hand. Hard to diag over comments with nothing to look at

Still using it!

@@ScaleScience that's great, and it's affordable. Really appreciate you 😊

So far it’s okay. If you have a lot of play some shims will sort it right out.

Adjust it! Make sure your steering rack is same as ours and just keep tabs on the Ackerman throughout travel range 🤌

@@ScaleSciencehmmm okay cause I did the same measurement 12mm and my front wheels are pointing out words a lot But then I tried 14mm and the wheels went back to normal not to aggressive or unless that’s completely normal for this setup

@@Fbody_123​​⁠it would be much easier to reply to this if you could post this maybe on fb so we could see a photo, maybe a quicker back and forth? We have a 7K+ member group on fb. Scale Science RC. Jump in there and make a post and let’s talk setup

@@ScaleScience okay sounds good I sent pictures and a description of what’s happening hopefully you guys see it thank you 🙏🏾

Visit anytime! Cheers

V4 is great!

@@ScaleScience so I’ve read online and there is a lot of recommendations for using the red or green option what would you recommend?

@@Fbody_123​​⁠it’s a feel thing. I usually end up on red but you may try green if you’re newer.

Sure do, look us up if you’re in town Scale Science.

@@ScaleScience do you sell rtr rc's?

@@QUIET100yes we have some RTR’s, kits, electronics, bodies etc

Honestly both great options but the aftermarket is vast for the rdx. Great choice, have fun!

Thanks Josh!

I use their MM thinner. I try to use the brands specific thinner when painting. Seems to have created less headaches for me so long as that brand is used through the entirety of the build

MST parts have been hard to source but looking to get some here soon

Not a great business model for the stickers. It’s best to sell the product in this case.

@@ScaleScience will do you all sale the masks? Not stickers, but the making to paint it instead.

@@FastFreddyATL ​​⁠we don’t but our Buddy PJ Does. Look up Axsion.rc on Instagram and tell him scale science sent ya! He makes customs and you can get a great idea from his page of what he can do for you

Hard to beat this rdx in terms of performance out of the box for the price. Thanks for tuning in!

Axsion.rc on Instagram.

Did you find the man himself @mIstastacks24

Axsion rc

I bought mine online. Just searched for the size and unsealed bearing and found it available online. They were unfortunetly expensive per pair, I bout 10 and sold them at the store.

We have them at our shop

Drive an acuvance setup and try not to make it sound like promo, I double dare ya!

Also, for transparency sake we have never recieve any financial compensation from any companies we showcase on our channel. Our hope is that will help us stay true to our fans and remain free and clear of nepotism!

I found the bearings from a bearing company, They are unsealed. I used damper shims from an old team associated short course truck as they were the cheapest option. As for the drive cup protectors, they will be required as the outdrive cups on the clsd diferential are chubby and need the protectors to take up the slack. Heads up, I wouldn’t suggest the clsd until your power upgrade as it’s hard to feel a big difference from stock on the stock powerplant.

@@ScaleScience noted, thank you for the feedback. I'll hold on for now. I'll probably go with the reveD front lower arms first. Was hoping redcat would release their own soon but haven't seen any news. My front was binding really bad. I switched all the ball end cups to some yokomo ones and that helped big time. Still not smooth tho.

@@ramonvillasenor6396the reve d fronts are an awesome visual and performance upgrade without adding a bunch of weight and still much cheaper then The yok versions. Smooth is definetly what you should keep searching for. If you had to guess is it maybe something binding? I had binding issues with my inner hinge pins so might be worth a look checking on those

@@ScaleScience yeah I think so. I actually sanded the hole on the arms to try and give it more space and applied some lube. It helped a little but I'm hoping with the arm switch it will be better. Your issue with the pins was before your changed the arms or with the reveD arms? I might also need to rebuilt my shocks. I got the big bores but I noticed some oil residue on the bottom of the shock and I'm thinking they might be slowly leaking.

Upgrade the esc and focus on your alignment and suspension tuning!

@ScaleScience ok so it's a alignment issue not a slow servo or gyro fight or controller I'm running a gt5 remote

@@4Wheeladdiction ​​⁠it very well could be, if it feels like it’s holding you back, upgrade it!

All of the steering, front bulkhead, knuckles, steering servo arm, all stock ball cups and balls except for dampers, stock transmission (except rhino dif) and stock rear tower. The replaced parts are the plastic deck, battery tray, suspension (we changed our damper bodies out for red color, not because lack of performance) and lower arms. Put good electronics in it and finesse the ball cups and alignment into free movement and less toe out. Rear lower arm swap allowed us to move the arm further forward on the pin and the car makes insane grip.

If it’s purple it’s from integy. If it’s red it’s an old racing one from a friend, not sure on brand as it’s rubbed off.