Your car guy card is pulled lol. All these videos and dirty ass engine bay. SMH LMAO

Bro come on your a car guy, that engine bay is disgusting dirty lol. Sounds good.

This was very helpful, my 2014 started doing the same thing

Bearings puller harbor freight tool n for the c clip use needle nose custom grinded or but c clip removal

Im glad I seen this as 1 guy removed the temp sensor to drain it..

that's about $50.00 worth of parts at a hardware store

Thanks man, I'm gonna build one!

Without clear that looks terrible.

How dare you besmirch the good name of kroil!

I have an LS swapped gbody Monte Carlo and the harmonic balancer flew off when I hit limiter and passed me while throwing sparks on the road 😂 my crank bolt was loose too I guess

I know this video is a little old now. Just wondering if you ever figured it out?

Thank you for the pull back and rock back and fourth to pull the knob off!

For anyone looking for a cheaper Alternative, Mobil Delvac 1 and Castrol Transynd 668, are both really good high mileage options, which supposedly don’t shear down that much, while giving a good viscosity for all kinds of driving. I do think that the older Castrol Transynd for 295 and 468 (Dexron III/Mercon V spec), probably worked a bit better, since they’re thicker overall, compared to the newer 668 formula… I mean, I’ve grinded 2nd and 3rd once in a while when my trans temps climb past 200+ F, but it could honestly just be my stock TR-6060’s synchronizers… I plan on eventually getting a hybrid carbon fiber synchronizer (OEM) upgrade, as well as better shift fork pads and bushings, since all of the stock gearbox parts seem to be problematic for harder driving… How sad.

Enduro has a plomb in the exhost pipe, and in the later model "DT" it sits in de cylinder. Derfor i byed an Enduro cylinder for my DT, and got mor HK

This is Yamaha enduro 50 cc not DT

I have a smoke machine. Would that work?

" Give me that fucking wrench" ha ha ha ha,i love it!! if you have never worked under a car doing shit like this you haven't lived, Ive had my 91 since new and it has the original tranny mount,gonna replace it here soon,something to tinker with besides the other 500 things i need to do to it. Before doing stuff like this it really helps to take a quick trip to the car wash and lay on the floor with a blanket or whatever and just hose the hell out of the car underneath, that drivetrain grease and muck is the kind that takes like 3 weeks and a hundred showers to get it off your hands,something about it, its just resilient.

Awesome video man, very informative!

I'm glad you put this out.I've always done all my own wrenching as well. I'm just about to do a very close project but I'm putting in a TFS Stage1, gt40p ported heads, an Edelbrock Performer 5.0 upper/lower (also mildly ported) 1.7 stud mount converted roller rockers with girdle, 24# injectors and calibrated pmas MAF, 150lph fuel pump, fuel regulator etc etc. I'll be degreeing my cam and doing the play-do ptv clearance check just to make sure. Plus while its all torn apart I'm adding a new steering rack and bushings and doing a wire tuck on both sides of the engine bay. Anyways, your video is informative and well done....one thing though, you put your old lifters on a brand new cam....from what I understand that's a big no-no. The previous cam will have worn in with each individual lifter and lobe. I guess if you did it and all is well, great but I personally would avoid that. It's basically the end of Feb in Kelowna BC and the weather is heating up, I should be out attacking my project next weekend! Take care and thanks again for a great vid! (oh and I see you seem to have more foxbody content so I'll be sure to watch those too)

I clean the rust out completely with 4 to 1 P-Acid. Idk if your primer has a rust solvent but i don't play with rust

This is torsen ?

Thanks. My daughter is bringing her CTS over right now so we can fix this. Our leak is in the front though.

How much air pressure did you use to push on cylinder down?

Insane how far prices have come, can make a pc just as good or better for 200$

Good tunes..better video . Thanks

There is 2 vacuum hoses on the back of the 2.3. Any ideas what they go to?

But you didn't show use how you did the front drains (from the top of the sunroof) ?

I you where going to tune it, you should just get rear 02's turned off in tune they provide no function outside of checks and balance for the fronts then you could have just screwed your wideband in one of the rear 02 bungs.

Had to stop watching couldn’t focus with that music

I liked your build. Maybe your next one could be a diy fuel pressure tester. 🙂

I have an issue with my focus ST, for some reason did not give me the speed in the cluster only the revs, by changes this will works??

I thought cts v was a lt4

How do you clean the front driver/passenger side?

Maan you have some paint chips :)

Thank you!!

Great job!

I’m looking at a cts v1 and it has a Saturn sky redline diff is it strong enough for the car? the car is Cammed also

Drive shaft would've been 1st thing probably id suspect

what happened to this guy, he just disappeared

You can buy already made kits for cheaper than just the parts you listed.

How well did they hold up? Any rust? Warp?

Where you get the wood

Avoid SS nuts and bolts. They are not strong and SS on SS gall, unless you use almost never seize. Use grade 8.

Just so you know on the infant seat the bar should be up it would give slightly more space too

Easiest way to pop the ball joint out is to shove a longer pry bar into that larger rear hole of the control arm and press down. Comes out smoother than butter.

That is an appalling repair

You ruined a good video with the fkg background music (noise)👎

Same bolt broke on mine. I noticed that it was a 3.42 ratio with an open diff so I upgraded to a 3.91 g80.

Good work. But isn't it a Ty50 Trail model. Which uses other tank design and decals...

What gear is on that distributor?