What u think could be?

If one of the ball bearings slipped out of position during assembly it can cause the problem you describe. Trapped air in the cylinder can also cause similar problem. I would check fluid levels, add fluid if necessary. Once you have verified that the unit has sufficient fluid, test again. If the problem continues, I would disassemble and inspect the bearings.

The work rack is fabricated by Kerr Marine Tools, Florida. They are awesome. Usually the primary sealant that I use for this type of work is Permatex Anaerobic. In most cases using a sealant is not necessary, but on older units with advanced corrosion on the outer casing, the sealant helps. As for tools, the tools we used in this video we a range of tools from specialized tools that we make in house to commonly used automotive and everyday tools off the hardware store shelf. The solvents I'd recommend for this type of work would include mineral spirits, but also acetone as well as either Corrosion-X or Kimball Midwest penetrating oils. Kimball is great for lighter duty work. With all of the chemicals used, I strongly recommend some level of PPE/gloves/eye protection etc. along with working in a very well ventilated space. I kept the fans off for most for some or all of the video to keep background noise to a minimum, but normally I keep the air moving in any enclosed work space.

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Sweet. Thank you for taking the time.

Good catch and recommendation! Definitely inline filter replacement would be a strong recommendation with fuel system repair.

awesome!

Thanks!

Red can would be Corrosion-X.

If memory serves, most SeaStar Steering Cylinders are rated up to 300 HP for a single cylinder. However, I would strongly recommend that you contact SeaStar tech support with your cylinder model number to confirm the HP rating. The DF 250 is a fairly powerful motor, if there is still fluid leaking from the steering system, it definitely needs to be isolated and the cause of leak repaired. The overall age of the steering system components is a big factor. I mostly see saltwater boats in my boat yard and in the local conditions, Helm, hoses, cylinders have about a 15 year maximum service life before they are either needing to be replaced or are on borrowed time

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thank you for replying. I’ve had the seals replace several times and keeps leaking so I’m probably gonna replace the entire steering. Hopefully won’t have to replace my tilt steering wheel. It’s not that big of a boat, it’s only 21 feet and being a inflatable RIB boat, very light and from 150 to 250, gets on plane very quickly. Thank you sir.

Hey Norm, the wrench for the F100 would be OST-0022, 47mm spanner. It fits both the outer and inner caps. I have seen many of these cylinders over the years which have zero external/visible leakage, but the inner seals are damaged and causing the cylinder to leak down. One way or another your ptt unit sounds like it needs a look at the internals.

Your method is well thought out. I like it and thanks for sharing this info!

I put grease on pretty much everything unless it is specified not to do so. Anti seize is also a good product. I have no idea why some people do or do not do certain things, but, to me, grease is one of the most important parts I can think of in terms of preventative maintenance.

Once the bleeder valves on the cylinder are opened up, the helm will be allowed to turn infinite rev's in both directions since the steering system has no resistance, its just cycling fluid. With the G2 kit you should be able to get the air out of the system fairly quickly and then you either have a steering system that can pass testing and is ready for the water or you have a system that still needs further repairs. The first step is always to purge the air from the system and verify that there is enough fluid to be able to build and sustain hydraulic pressure. So, if you have removed the air from your steering system, and you are still able to push the motor side to side there is definitely still a problem somewhere, which will need to be isolated. The problem you are describing is often caused by malfunction in valves in the back of the helm which are responsible for managing hydraulic pressure as well as locking out feed back coming from the motor. Next time you push on the motor, keep your eye on the steering wheel. If you push on the motor, the motor moves and the steering wheel starts turning at the same time, it is likely that the valves in the helm are not seating correctly. Occasionally, the cylinder can either develop internal pitting or the piston seal can crack. Both conditions would allow fluid "blow-by" and the cylinder would not be able to hold pressure in part or all of its range. It is very important to isolate the failed component accurately so as to avoid wasting money on replacing parts that may not be damaged. We sell a diagnostic kit which makes isolating these issues much much faster.

I've used Quicksilver 2-4-C for the last 15 years on almost everything, except wheel bearings, with zero issues. 80% of my shop business is returning clientele, and I seen how it's behaved year in year out going behind my own work.

Thanks!

Thanks very Much!

Thanks very much!

Very sorry for the late reply: almost 100% the trim motor is failing

Mostly a habit. Usually if we are resealing a lower in my shop, all the seals and o-rings are getting replaced. Shift cover seal, drive shaft seals and lower. Bending the tab in the wrong direction would be accidental.

You'd be correct, all of the above. I recommended new bearings etc, but gear set, pinion, was ok, shift good, minimal wear on clutch dog. All bearings were definitely suspect. Owner said keep it cheap, bare minimum, which is what I did. At the time he was going to sell the boat, but decided to keep. 100+ hrs later, still good.

FYI, motor is a Yamaha 2005 90 2stroke

The lower housing on the 90 can be a challenge. can you send any available photos to [email protected]. I want to see what the remnants look like.

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks Tyler, I anticipate picking the lower unit up from the shop this week and will send photos. Appreciate the help

Thanks very much for your order, and we have had excellent results in our shop as well as with customers with this puller.

Agree, that something likely smoked the fuse in the first place, and on Yamaha, fuses just up and blowing themselves out for no reason is exceptionally rare

Yes, that is correct, OST-0024 will pull the entire assembly from the prop shaft back, because that's how I designed it. There are some pullers that will pull only the carrier, but we do not make or sell them.